Excuse me if i now drop out as you do listen to some like the experts you are going to and believe what you believe yet still have a not very quick car.

 

So IMO & IME you do have a higher RPM in S or M1, it becomes a 6 gear DSG, thats not new news,

& you get it holding the RPM before changing up when in S. 

Not always the best to get off the line. The Max PS is different RPM with the CAVE or CTHE, and the engine management / map is different.

The max torque is obviously not where max PS is.

 

But you were DYNOing to find out where they are, and re-mapping / coding for the best performance,

it not doing the 0-62 or 1/4 mile while on a dyno with cold air blowing at your intercooler, no heatsoak, or wind resistance.

You were wanting to know the BHP / Nm Torque it could produce. Artificial conditions, strapped down and no or as little as poss wheel spin.

 

..................

On a standing start on a road / strip,

& If you want optimum performance and 0-62 or maybe 0-100 mph maybe try.

Stop hand brake on and gear stick to Manual 1 and hold on the hand brake, not the foot brake. TC off and then handbrake off as you floor it.

Do not change gear let the DSG have to up to 4th (forced to shift and it will do) then shift to 5th manually at over 100 mph if your car is actually fast.

 

The thing about thinking is, others have done things before you and might actually know.

Edited 7 April, 20197 yr by Skoffski

30 minutes ago, Skoffski said:

Excuse me if i now drop out as you do listen to some like the experts you are going to and believe what you believe yet still have a not very quick car.

 

So IMO & IME you do have a higher RPM in S or M1, it becomes a 6 gear DSG, thats not new news,

& you get it holding the RPM before changing up when in S. 

Not always the best to get off the line. The Max PS is different RPM with the CAVE or CTHE, and the engine management / map is different.

The max torque is obviously not where max PS is.

 

But you were DYNOing to find out where they are, and re-mapping / coding for the best performance,

it not doing the 0-62 or 1/4 mile while on a dyno with cold air blowing at your intercooler, no heatsoak, or wind resistance.

You were wanting to know the BHP / Nm Torque it could produce. Artificial conditions, strapped down and no or as little as poss wheel spin.

 

..................

On a standing start on a road / strip,

& If you want optimum performance and 0-62 or maybe 0-100 mph maybe try.

Stop hand brake on and gear stick to Manual 1 and hold on the hand brake, not the foot brake. TC off and then handbrake off as you floor it.

Do not change gear let the DSG have to up to 4th (forced to shift and it will do) then shift to 5th manually at over 100 mph if your car is actually fast.

 

The thing about thinking is, others have done things before you and might actually know.

 

Just a little bit confused there buddy im not sure what you meant with the first part of your reply

 

but never mind that

What do you think about this mass converter? Is that true? Could that be holding back the 210bhp? Could the coil packs be the issue? Thats what he’s saying 

 

also what intercooler?

i thought (as did the map guy) these cars are water cooled? Ive not seen an intercooler inside them before either?

38 minutes ago, RezaVrs said:

he said theres a torque limiter in the DAG that limits how much torque the car puts out. 

 

1: something could be wrong with the mass sensor? No clue what that is

2: i need to upgrade the coil packs

 

I have heard about the DSG torque limiter, i mentioned it to you before. Yes that can help to increase torque at the expense of your clutches.

 

The car has no mass airflow (MAF) sensor, it has 3 MAP (manifold air pressure) sensors instead. So that is a dead end.

 

The coil packs arent going to increase the power, at all. But they might stop the misfiring.

 

The DV+ will only increase the power if the standard valve is leaking, which is a possibility but i doubt very much its going to make a big difference.

 

I would have the car put back to standard, sort out the misfire and do a battery of tests to find out the performance of the car as standard. Then map the car and compare the data to see what changed. 

 

Edit: just seen the watercooled / intercooled comment. I suggest you do some research if you want to get your car where you want it to be. I'd start by going outside and looking through the lower grill for the air to air intercooler...

Edited 7 April, 20197 yr by FlexibleMouse

@RezaVrs

I had Uprated Clutch Packs and DSG Software when running 220 BHP and over 300 Nm, 

but i also had run 210 plus with standard DSG and did pretty good standing starts, but more important quick 30-120 mph.

 

I take it your re-maper / tuner or you never looked at the front of the car.

Where was the fan blowing at?

 

This member has a quick vRS and then a new engine and then still a quick twincharger.

Maybe do some more research on what your car is and has.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/345286-intercooler-for-the-vrs

 

Edited 7 April, 20197 yr by Skoffski

7 minutes ago, FlexibleMouse said:

 

I have heard about the DSG torque limiter, i mentioned it to you before. Yes that can help to increase torque at the expense of your clutches.

 

The car has no mass airflow (MAF) sensor, it has 3 MAP (manifold air pressure) sensors instead. So that is a dead end.

 

The coil packs arent going to increase the power, at all. But they might stop the misfiring.

 

The DV+ will only increase the power if the standard valve is leaking, which is a possibility but i doubt very much its going to make a big difference.

 

I would have the car put back to standard, sort out the misfire and do a battery of tests to find out the performance of the car as standard. Then map the car and compare the data to see what changed. 

 

Edit: just seen the watercooled / intercooled comment. I suggest you do some research if you want to get your car where you want it to be. I'd start by going outside and looking through the lower grill for the air to air intercooler...

Right okay

this is really frustrating

the guy that mapped it is willing to help me but when he said he could code the map to increase power however if it causes damage to other components thats on my head and that worries me a bit

should it concern me?

 

just had a look and i dont see an intercooler behind/infront of the radiatoe or behind the lower grill

which is strange because i know airtec does an uprated intercooler for these cars so is that maybe a road to go on?

 

also; torque limiter on the dsg, if i upgraded this how am i supposed to know if the increase in power is from the map on the DSG, from the map on the ECU  or a combination of both? 

 

 

This is a standard front. Slight accident damaged...

12 hours ago, RezaVrs said:

IMO you get optimum performance in ‘S’ or Manual mode as stationary the car sits on around 1100 rpm where is in D mode its around 800. 

Update:

spoke to the remap guy, going next week monday to check the dygnostic it any flags come up.

he told me theres 2 ways you can map a car, by increasing the power output in percentage or by coding. He done ‘coding’. 

As for upgrading the DSG he didnt say torque converter he said theres a torque limiter in the DAG that limits how much torque the car puts out. Map that and torque number increase. He also said if i wanted he can increase the map/BHP/power as though alter the map to make the car perform more aggresively however he said if theres any damage to other components i.e turbo etc he wont take responsibility. So i declined but he will check everything is fine

he also said the reason potentially why im not feeling more power is:

1: something could be wrong with the mass sensor? No clue what that is

2: i need to upgrade the coil packs

 

my plan:

change the plugs

 hange the DV to the one you recommended and see how it goes

No resolved issues then ill go to him to get a diagnostic done

thoughts?

 

I'm sure Offski and others will confirm, it took a long while for Tuning companies to break down and be able to remap the ECU on these wee cars, back in the early days. Even to this day, as I suspect you have found out, many Tuners/ Mapping companies will simply not touch these "as they won't take responsibility for anything else that may go wrong".

 

Many owners went to REVO initially, but the maps turned out to be unreliable for many and created bigger problems than not feeling quite up to power. APR persevered and eventually did find a method of mapping these relatively safely on a consistent basis, Shark Performance also.

 

That doesn't help you, other than your mapping guy perhaps realises that there have been occasions where remapping one of these doesn't always go well.

 

Most mapping companies who will do this, Autohaus or Ecotune or similar up here, will look for around 215 or so from a stage one MAP, with custom exhaust and fresh/ good plugs onboard. Most if not all will insist as part of the process on a dyno run before and after, to show the customer the difference as tested just in case something comes up, as has happened with your good self.

 

What he says about the DSG is accurate, the standard 7sp DQ200 box we have is torque limited to 300nm, as standard we run 250nm. Going beyond 300nm is something for the very brave on standard components, normally folk would look to upgrade the clutch packs to Kevlar clutches or similar, components that are rated far higher than 300nm so can handle any remapping safely.

 

It is good he is going to check your car over for you, but if it were me I would look at it in the simplest terms. In your shoes I would have paid £200 or so for a Map that has not substantially improved the performance of my car and is akin to standard, and worse than that has left me with a misfire, which I would be desperately hoping is not linked to deeper problems. So I would be looking for the chap to at least diagnose the source of the misfire, and if needs be to correct it, ask him to remove the MAP/ Coding he entered to put it back to standard free of charge.

 

It's your car, and if its not right after he was working on it, he has an obligation to put it right, If you're not certain on when your last set of spark plugs were put in, change them for peace of mind, which I understand you are doing anyway. It is doubtful that your new plugs or valve will make the difference, as to me the Mapper didn't attempt to get your power anywhere close to stage one figures. I would be asking specifically what he meant by Coding.

 

As before, I hope you can get a good outcome.

 

 

7 hours ago, Sittingbull said:

 

I'm sure Offski and others will confirm, it took a long while for Tuning companies to break down and be able to remap the ECU on these wee cars, back in the early days. Even to this day, as I suspect you have found out, many Tuners/ Mapping companies will simply not touch these "as they won't take responsibility for anything else that may go wrong".

 

Many owners went to REVO initially, but the maps turned out to be unreliable for many and created bigger problems than not feeling quite up to power. APR persevered and eventually did find a method of mapping these relatively safely on a consistent basis, Shark Performance also.

 

That doesn't help you, other than your mapping guy perhaps realises that there have been occasions where remapping one of these doesn't always go well.

 

Most mapping companies who will do this, Autohaus or Ecotune or similar up here, will look for around 215 or so from a stage one MAP, with custom exhaust and fresh/ good plugs onboard. Most if not all will insist as part of the process on a dyno run before and after, to show the customer the difference as tested just in case something comes up, as has happened with your good self.

 

What he says about the DSG is accurate, the standard 7sp DQ200 box we have is torque limited to 300nm, as standard we run 250nm. Going beyond 300nm is something for the very brave on standard components, normally folk would look to upgrade the clutch packs to Kevlar clutches or similar, components that are rated far higher than 300nm so can handle any remapping safely.

 

It is good he is going to check your car over for you, but if it were me I would look at it in the simplest terms. In your shoes I would have paid £200 or so for a Map that has not substantially improved the performance of my car and is akin to standard, and worse than that has left me with a misfire, which I would be desperately hoping is not linked to deeper problems. So I would be looking for the chap to at least diagnose the source of the misfire, and if needs be to correct it, ask him to remove the MAP/ Coding he entered to put it back to standard free of charge.

 

It's your car, and if its not right after he was working on it, he has an obligation to put it right, If you're not certain on when your last set of spark plugs were put in, change them for peace of mind, which I understand you are doing anyway. It is doubtful that your new plugs or valve will make the difference, as to me the Mapper didn't attempt to get your power anywhere close to stage one figures. I would be asking specifically what he meant by Coding.

 

As before, I hope you can get a good outcome.

 

 

Thank you for your detailed response

do you reckon it would be safe to tell him to up to power on the chip?

 

i have located a VAG specialist in my town https://audivwsc.co.uk/

going to them on Wednesday, they’re going to do a diagnostic and ECU read to check if the cars been mapped.

 

Drove the car approx 60 miles today various modes/flooring etc and it is definitely misfiring alot more 

those plugs need to get here asap!

i ended up ordering them from Opie Oils as per Skoffski’s recommendation

 

one other thing; does anyone know or have for sale a decat downpipe for the VRS? 

It will be interesting to know if the ECU has even been unlocked.

 

If you are getting a Remap or a Custom map i would advise you get your mods done first like fitting the Decat Pipe.

Not that i would bother with that. 

Much easier to just get the car putting out 210ps + and have no issues with a MOT.

Edited 8 April, 20197 yr by Skoffski

2 hours ago, Skoffski said:

It will be interesting to know if the ECU has even been unlocked.

 

If you are getting a Remap or a Custom map i would advise you get your mods done first like fitting the Decat Pipe.

Not that i would bother with that. 

Much easier to just get the car putting out 210ps + and have no issues with a MOT.

When i take it on wednesday i’ll let you know the outcome

 

forget the decat, how would you achieve 215-230bhp if you were in my shoes with the pain staking situation I am currently in

215hp is what a healthy stage 1 car makes, and where you get the best performance to money ratio. From there it gets expensive but I would go intercooler, bigger downpipe which should get you to around 225-230. 

13 minutes ago, FlexibleMouse said:

215hp is what a healthy stage 1 car makes, and where you get the best performance to money ratio. From there it gets expensive but I would go intercooler, bigger downpipe which should get you to around 225-230. 

Yeah i was kind of aware of this but thats given a general situation of someone thinking of mapping, doing a dyno pre and post map, no misfires etc

i have a “mapped” car producing 195bhp (stock cars with no mods have made this) stuck in the mud with a guy who’s telling me he could up the performance but should any components go wrong then thats not his responsibility?

 

really pain in the *** if you ask me i only went with him because it was alot more convenient, 5 star reviews on google, experienced in twin chargers

what more can i ask for

he is telling me something must be wrong with my car

car misfiring was not after the map

it was after the dyno that misfires started so to me it just seems like im

going to the wrong people 

 

I think your spark plugs just need changing, maybe coils too. They were ok producing the power you had before but now the cylinder pressures have increased they aren't doing the job.

 

Any time you increase the performance of a car you are putting more strain on the components and shortening their life, that's just something we have to accept. 

 

Regarding performance, I don't care what power my car makes, because that changes constantly with the changes in temperature, pressure and humidity. I care about how fast it accelerates. My old car had 265hp but my fabia is actually quicker!

As in Dandanfings threads his 2013 CTHE could not be remapped even with a APR Dealer opening the ECU.

It took 2 years until there was any Remappers that were Remapping from the OBD.

There are 3 different standard Softwares from 2013-2014.

Mid 2013 there were changes made. There are 2 different ECU's from 2012-2014 that i have seen.  (3 from 2010-2012 with the CAVE, and various maps.)

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/314712-vrs-complaints-2013-model

When i ask about Polo GTI or SEAT Cupra with engines after 2012 that are remapped and what ECU there is people get all wooly on the subject.

It is not unusual to hear about a car being re-mapped and how fast it is and when the ECU gets asked, no comes the reply. Just someone boasting.

All ECU are not the same, and how they were locked was not the same.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/392363-remap-options-vrs

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 8 April, 20197 yr by Skoffski

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/302195-fabia-mk2-vrs-late-2012-on-cthe-14-tsi-engine-remaps/?page=3

Shows a Dyno for a CTHE, & shows who did the APR Stage 1 map.

 

Edited 8 April, 20197 yr by Skoffski

16 hours ago, RezaVrs said:

Thank you for your detailed response

do you reckon it would be safe to tell him to up to power on the chip?

 

i have located a VAG specialist in my town https://audivwsc.co.uk/

going to them on Wednesday, they’re going to do a diagnostic and ECU read to check if the cars been mapped.

 

Drove the car approx 60 miles today various modes/flooring etc and it is definitely misfiring alot more 

those plugs need to get here asap!

i ended up ordering them from Opie Oils as per Skoffski’s recommendation

 

one other thing; does anyone know or have for sale a decat downpipe for the VRS? 

 

Hi,

 

As things currently stand, where you have a misfire without knowing for certain what the cause is or the certain solution, I would not be asking anyone to up the power. Nor at this stage, without first resolving your misfire issue, would I be looking to change components on the car.

 

As my auld Scots gran used to say "one step at a time laddie", usually she was proven right.

 

So, it's important to isolate and address the source of your misfire. Hopefully the garage you've linked to are able to do this and address this, hopefully it is a case of fitting your new spark plugs and the misfire problem is resolved.

 

They will then be able to tell you whether or not the ECU has been interfered with, and perhaps even tell you exactly what difference your original guy has made, if any.

 

It may then be a case of returning to base settings by removing the work the original lad did.

 

And then, if you want, installation of a fresh map/ remapping to try and achieve the >210bhp figure you should have seen fIrst time around.

 

 

 

 

3 minutes ago, Sittingbull said:

 

Hi,

 

As things currently stand, where you have a misfire without knowing for certain what the cause is or the certain solution, I would not be asking anyone to up the power. Nor at this stage, without first resolving your misfire issue, would I be looking to change components on the car.

 

As my auld Scots gran used to say "one step at a time laddie", usually she was proven right.

 

So, it's important to isolate and address the source of your misfire. Hopefully the garage you've linked to are able to do this and address this, hopefully it is a case of fitting your new spark plugs and the misfire problem is resolved.

 

They will then be able to tell you whether or not the ECU has been interfered with, and perhaps even tell you exactly what difference your original guy has made, if any.

 

It may then be a case of returning to base settings by removing the work the original lad did.

 

And then, if you want, installation of a fresh map/ remapping to try and achieve the >210bhp figure you should have seen fIrst time around.

 

 

 

 

Oh definitely not touching anything till the misfire is sorted

ive tried to lay off the accelerator as much as possible too. New plugs should be here tomorow latest Thursday. The VAG specialist is charging me £30 for a diagnostic and ECU read for the remap.

 

im just slightly leaning towards what Skodfski said regarding how alot of tuning companies were struggling to unlock the ECU on the CTHE engine and failing the maps, has that potentially happened in my case

its doing my head in

the guy who did the map, do you reckon he would give me a full refund despite having spent 90 mins on the map + whatever else he spends deleting it?

 

Anyone know anyone selling full turbo back exhaust system for the VRS?

My advice would be to Contact RTMG if you want the R8 coils and plugs supplied and fitted, They also offer remaps and in my opinion are the best available tuners in the UK for the 1.4 tfsi.

 

Not sure if there's anyone on here who directly uses RTMG however on the mk2 fabia vrs facebook  page they are very helpful.

 

I've had denso plugs in for best part of a year or more and doing nearly 10k, Still get a rough idle on start but they have been faultless, Mine are gapped at 0.4mm which in theory will work better when under load than sitting idle.

How you getting on Reza? Plugs fitted? Misfire sorted?

2 minutes ago, Chunk11 said:

How you getting on Reza? Plugs fitted? Misfire sorted?

 

Thats nice of you to ask!

yes plugs fitted, originally had NGK in there can send pics of them but they seem in tact. On the odd ocassion the car SEEMS like it ever so slightly wants to misfire when i full throttle all of a sudden, i hear the exhaust pop a tiny bit like it did with the misfire but nothing that i notice. So so far, so good! Also, fitted the GFB diverter valve and my god its made a huge difference IMO. Much more agressive in combination with the plugs. Down side is, engine light is on (which they warn you about) installed it myself, due to 1 screw being in a super duper annoying place took 40 mins just to undo that and a bunch of swearing and finger cuts. Did a diagnostic just now and it does read an issue with the valve, as well as air intake leakage??????

very strange as i checked all the pipes and hoses but will check them again.

 

going to the remap stylist on Monday hopefully, he can sort those issues out !

2 hours ago, Chunk11 said:

How you getting on Reza? Plugs fitted? Misfire sorted?

Original NGK plugs 

seem fine to me? Im not an expert so please tell me

The light shouldn't come on with the DV+ although it will store a code for mechanical malfunction of the DV. I don't use the spring with the DV+ which avoids having the code stored. If you have a light on and air leakage then you have a problem with the valve or fitting.

On 12/04/2019 at 17:00, FlexibleMouse said:

The light shouldn't come on with the DV+ although it will store a code for mechanical malfunction of the DV. I don't use the spring with the DV+ which avoids having the code stored. If you have a light on and air leakage then you have a problem with the valve or fitting.

So you’ve taken the thick spring that slips underneath the brass/red piston completely out and not replaced it? 

You reckon if i do the same i’ll keep the current performance and get rid of the code too?

Just removed the whole valve again

took the large spring out

lubricated the piston 

sealed it all up but engine light still on !!!

Yeah the big spring makes no real difference to performance because our turbos spool so quickly anyway. Removing the spring will allow the car to run without storing the soft code for mechanical malfunction of the DV.

 

If you are certain you have the valve assembled correctly (except the spring) then clear the codes and test it out. The lights do not always go out by themselves they need to be cleared once the fault has been repaired.