Hello all, 

 

My drivers side rear door has just suddenly stopped functioning as it should.

I noticed this as the window stopped working, which then turned out that it has stopped the lock from functioning, the interior light function when that door is opened and the car won’t deadlock. 

 

So so I need to sort it ASAP.

 

i have been told that it’s a module in the Drivers FRONT door that causes the problem, but I have no idea on its actual part name or even better, a part number.

 

Once I’ve got this part, how easy is it to fit?

 

 

any help would be greatly appreciated 

 

thanks all

Get the car scanned with VCDS or similar.

 

Until then, it's worth checking the wiring between the body and car door. It's not uncommon to have broken wires inside the rubber tubes :-)

I'd start by checking the wiring loom between the A pillar and the drivers door - a common fail.:-

 

Edited 19 April, 20197 yr by bigjohn

yip same here 1 single wire broken on front door loom stopped the whole rear door doing anything Windows Locking Lights

Gents, I’ve got a couple of questions after having a further search this evening after reading the thread supplied by @bigjohn.

 

I've been told it’s the module that is in the drivers door... part 5 below

 

 

 

However, it would make more sense to me, that it was the wires in the harness that have given up the ghost. 

 

My my issue is this... I have updated sound in my car, which consists of an extra speaker in each door, which of the two options would you go with? 

 

8 LoudSpeakers or vehicles with sound system.

I’d assume it to be the sound system version, but any help would be better than me making the mistake of ordering the wrong part and getting my door stripped right down to replace with the wrong part! 

 

 

 

Thanks for all all the help so far guys. It’s appreciated 

DO NOT BUY A door controller 
Once you buy one and fit it it needs coded to the car and Skoda will not accept it back if its been fitted and even not coded

A VCDS scan says no communication with door controller so a lot of people go and replace it 

You need some one thats capable of checking out the wiring completely to rule broken wire ( wire can be broken inside and insulation intact so looks ok at first sight but needs to be continuity checked which involves removing door card and loom to completely check.

A lot of people have been stung before 

In a standard VCDS - or other - scan you get 4 door controllers listed.  J386, J387, J 388, J389. I have never had them out, but assume they are all separate. J389 is the on for the right rear door.

As said before get a scan done.

 

You can also then do output tests with VCDS to check what is not working.

Edited 21 April, 20197 yr by 26DIPP

@26DIPP

when I scanned mine it just said no communication with drivers rear controller

I had 1 broken wire in front door loom and after fixing it communicated with rear door and everything was working 

It must go to front door then return to rear door through front door loom to power rear controller.

A lot of members have bought new controllers to find it doesnt fix the problem.

 

19 hours ago, 20vKarlos said:

 

However, it would make more sense to me, that it was the wires in the harness that have given up the ghost. 

 

My my issue is this... I have updated sound in my car, which consists of an extra speaker in each door, which of the two options would you go with? 

 

 

 

 

 

Get the wiring harness repaired - an auto electrician will be able to solder in and insulate extended wires. As @DEL80Y mentions DO NOT buy a module - the wiring is a common fail on the drivers door (it is usually the one that is opened the most!)

Edited 21 April, 20197 yr by bigjohn

Hello all, quick update on this thread. 

 

I didn’t get the chance to get the car plugged into VCDS (or another scanner) but I took a glimpse at the wiring between the body of the car and the drivers door, IT WAS A MESS! 

 

So I just went and ordered the wiring loom. 

After a rather good fiddling about, it’s fitted and working again 

 

thanks for all the help again guys

 

 

Glad you got it sorted, but if only you'd checked the wiring as advised first, it would have saved you a month of being rear doorless