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Engine light came on. No message on dashboard.

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I am already away from home before I realised it. 

 

Car has been feeling a little rough while accelerating? Excess vibration felt through footwell. Somewhen when shutting engine off rattle on last turn. 

 

A independent general garage couldn't spot anything wrong physically underside last week in terms of brakes / suspension / wheels / etx, so some issues I'd been feeling can probably be explained by this engine light. 

 

Is it OK to still drive about? Should I restrict to 30 or 40 MPH? Is an independent non specialist garage OK to fix anything wrong with engine light or would you recommend a vag specialist / dealership. 

 

Do most garages have the equipment needed to read the engine light fault codes? 

Edited by newskodadriver

?

What engine, diesel or petrol,  is it a manual or DSG, how many miles has it done?

 

Garages should have the equipment to read the fault codes if any.

Did the garage you were at not have?

 

That is not to say they will be able to do repairs if required and best not have them clear the fault codes if any.

If they do be sure they print them out.

  • Author

Diesel, dsg, 115k miles. Last service was 3500 miles ago. 

 

It's a Sunday and the nearest general garage that I would use is closed. 

 

It's stupid that manufacturers don't just tell drivers the fault code 

If you get the fault codes you will find out quick enough here what they are if the person reading them does not know.

 

When was the Fuel Filter replaced?

 

Likely not related when was the DSG oil change last done, or is it a 1.6 TDI / DSG you have?

  • Author
1 minute ago, Skoffski said:

If you get the fault codes you will find out quick enough here what they are if the person reading them does not know.

 

When was the Fuel Filter replaced?

 

Likely not related when was the DSG oil change last done, or is it a 1.6 TDI / DSG you have?

I don't know what a fuel filter is and if it is not replaced as standard in a dealership service every 9400 miles, then not at least for the last 60k miles. 

 

DSG oil change was approx 26k miles ago. 

Skoda Main Dealer Servicing should include the Fuel Filter being replaced at each Major Service from the 2nd one, so every 20,000 miles or so, 

bi-annually.

It is part of the fixed price servicing and not for a tech to decide not to change.

Screenshot 2019-04-28 at 19.09.13.png

Edited by Skoffski

You need the fault code.

 

Any independant garage with a generic fault code reader i.e. all half-decent garages, will get you the fault code within 2 minutes. One with VAG-COM, or VCDS as it's now known will be even better.

 

This will direct you straight to the fault.

 

Use this website as a reference once you have the code...

 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes

 

My only other advice would be not to wait, get it booked in ASAP. If it's an emissions based fault i.e. DPF sensors, then you'll be on a fast road to more dash lights and potentially bigger bills.

 

Edited by silver1011

  • Author
3 minutes ago, silver1011 said:

You need the fault code.

 

Any independant garage with a generic fault code reader i.e. all half-decent garages, will get you the fault code within 2 minutes. One with VAG-COM, or VCDS as it's now known ill be best.

 

This will direct you straight to the fault.

 

Ude this website as a reference once you have the code...

 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes

 

My only other advice would be not to wait, get it booked in ASAP. If it's an emissions based fault i.e. DPF sensors, then you'll be on a fast road to more dash lights and potentially bigger bills.

 

If VCDS gives more fault codes than us shown by a generic reader, will someone using a generic reader realise there are fault codes missing? Or does it not work like that. 

 

I'm leaving the car at work and ringing a taxi home now because there's a garage literally on the next block on the industrial estate. I'll pop over tomorrow first thing as it shouldn't take them long to tell me if they can plug in and tell fault code or not. 

Edited by newskodadriver

VCDS is designed specifically for use on VAG (Volkswagen Audi Group) vehicles so has a higher chance of reading all fault codes.

 

Most generic code readers these days are equally as good, but some older / cheaper versions might not read some specific VAG codes.

 

I'd be very surprised if any well-respected independent garage couldn't get the codes read for you.

 

Take a look at the link I posted above, and click on any of the codes, you'll get a good feel for the sort of information they'll yield.

  • Author

Engine light this morning has gone off. 

 

Garage read codes, cleared codes and said drive it for 1 day or until light appears again then go back to read codes again. 

 

 

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Edited by newskodadriver

"  Somewhen when shutting engine off rattle on last turn.  "

 

When you stated the above in your first post my thoughts went straight to the Throttle Valve G69.

 

When you shut down the engine this valve is comanded to shut completely by the ECU to give a smooth stop to the engine.

 

If it doesn't shut properly the engine will shudder with extra noise & vibration.

 

Your code read shows a problem with the G69 sensor giving an incorrect signal.

 

I would get the garage to start there.

 

This valve does get covered in gunge from the EGR that discharges just above & can stop it operating correctly.

 

It might need renewing or just cleaning or could be a just wiring fault.

  • Author
5 hours ago, PipH said:

"  Somewhen when shutting engine off rattle on last turn.  "

 

When you stated the above in your first post my thoughts went straight to the Throttle Valve G69.

 

When you shut down the engine this valve is comanded to shut completely by the ECU to give a smooth stop to the engine.

 

If it doesn't shut properly the engine will shudder with extra noise & vibration.

 

Your code read shows a problem with the G69 sensor giving an incorrect signal.

 

I would get the garage to start there.

 

This valve does get covered in gunge from the EGR that discharges just above & can stop it operating correctly.

 

It might need renewing or just cleaning or could be a just wiring fault.

After almost 100 miles exactly since the garage cleared the light. It has reappeared, it came on after filling up. But maybe its the 100 mile that did it. 

 

I've missed garage opening times this afternoon because I fell asleep. A garage that's nearer to where I lived and open until 6 rather than 5 demanded £30. Which got me thinking, just what tool do they use to plug in and how much it cost. 

 

Turns out on amazon I can order something called an OBD reader for about 30 quid lol and plug it in myself. 

 

Edited by newskodadriver

@newskodadriver   They can cost from hundreds of pounds to thousands of pounds 

Its not just the cost of the equipment but the training and knowledge of the staff:wink:

A £30 code reader will give you basic codes only 

If you bought the code reader which will give basic codes will you be able to do the work yourself or have to go to a garage with better diagnostic equipment to correct and fix the problem.

As said before I would take G69 and start cleaning:cool:

  • Author
35 minutes ago, DEL80Y said:

@newskodadriver   They can cost from hundreds of pounds to thousands of pounds 

Its not just the cost of the equipment but the training and knowledge of the staff:wink:

A £30 code reader will give you basic codes only 

If you bought the code reader which will give basic codes will you be able to do the work yourself or have to go to a garage with better diagnostic equipment to correct and fix the problem.

As said before I would take G69 and start cleaning:cool:

Well I bought one and its going to arrive tomorrow afternoon. 

 

I don't understand what you mean about basic codes though? 

 

So am I right in imagining that there are 2 sets of codes and 2 sets of rraders. 

 

1 set of code is "basic", or non manufacturer specific? 

 

1 set of code is "specialised"? And specific to that particular brand, like DSG for VW or Magic Air Suspension for something like Mercedes? 

 

1 type of code reader reads generic codes only AND if there is a special fault, it will not only fail to read the code, it will also fail to tell the end user that it hasn't shown you all fault codes, whether they can be read or not? 

 

The last type is specialist readers like VCDS or Odin and read everything? 

 

People keep mentioning basic codes, and it would be worrying if a generic reader couldn't read code but also fail to inform you there was a fault there at all.. 

You already have the codes.

 

P261A etc.

 

Sensors G450 and G69 are well documented. Time to take the car to a reputable garage and get them to properly diagnose the and fix the issues.

  • Author

Single fault code came up this morning. G69 Throttle valve 

 

It has frequency of 4 faults in 125 miles since cleared. 

 

It is booked in tomorrow to take out and inspect / clean, quoted 1 hour no parts, labour cost of 40 pounds. 

 

Or do you reckon I should order a part just in case? 

15 hours ago, newskodadriver said:

Well I bought one and its going to arrive tomorrow afternoon. 

 

I don't understand what you mean about basic codes though? 

 

So am I right in imagining that there are 2 sets of codes and 2 sets of rraders. 

 

1 set of code is "basic", or non manufacturer specific? 

 

1 set of code is "specialised"? And specific to that particular brand, like DSG for VW or Magic Air Suspension for something like Mercedes? 

 

1 type of code reader reads generic codes only AND if there is a special fault, it will not only fail to read the code, it will also fail to tell the end user that it hasn't shown you all fault codes, whether they can be read or not? 

 

The last type is specialist readers like VCDS or Odin and read everything? 

 

People keep mentioning basic codes, and it would be worrying if a generic reader couldn't read code but also fail to inform you there was a fault there at all.. 

 

So-called generic codes are those specified by the OBD/EOBD standards. It is a regulatory requirement that the engine (and transmission if necessary) ECUs support these for the purpose of maintaining the emissions control equipment on the car. As these are open standards it is easy and inexpensive to get a device that can read them. In general they will cover most if not all engine issues. Only engine and transmission ECUs are supported so these code readers cannot do any diagnostics on airbags, BCM, etc. OBD can support reading live data but it will depend on the vehicle, the scan tool hardware and the software connected to it.

 

Manufacturers almost always have their own additional diagnostic protocols which tend to be more comprehensive than the (E)OBD standards specify, but since they are proprietary protocols it usually costs more to develop scan tools to read them and that cost is passed on to the consumer. These protocols will cover all ECUs fitted to the vehicle and allow for comprehensive diagnosis of all vehicle systems.

 

So in summary, generic/OBD/EOBD scan tools are engine only and possibly a subset of all possible fault codes;  proprietary scan tools are manufacturer specific but cover more fault codes and vehicle systems.

  • Author
On 30/04/2019 at 11:48, PipH said:

"  Somewhen when shutting engine off rattle on last turn.  "

 

When you stated the above in your first post my thoughts went straight to the Throttle Valve G69.

 

When you shut down the engine this valve is comanded to shut completely by the ECU to give a smooth stop to the engine.

 

If it doesn't shut properly the engine will shudder with extra noise & vibration.

 

Your code read shows a problem with the G69 sensor giving an incorrect signal.

 

I would get the garage to start there.

 

This valve does get covered in gunge from the EGR that discharges just above & can stop it operating correctly.

 

It might need renewing or just cleaning or could be a just wiring fault.

 

23 hours ago, DEL80Y said:

@newskodadriver   They can cost from hundreds of pounds to thousands of pounds 

Its not just the cost of the equipment but the training and knowledge of the staff:wink:

A £30 code reader will give you basic codes only 

If you bought the code reader which will give basic codes will you be able to do the work yourself or have to go to a garage with better diagnostic equipment to correct and fix the problem.

As said before I would take G69 and start cleaning:cool:

Is the above what the garage will be doing tomorrow? I tried looking up G69 throttle valve clean for skoda and didn't find anything conclusive like youtube / pictures. One older youtube video for different engine said don't cheap out and buy a new turquoise gasket seal, some other places say if its unplugged it'll need VCDS recalibration and another plastic tube or something should also be cleaned along side etc. Quite a few say you need a sock to put over a hole or something. 

 

The above link is from a yeti but also 2l 170bhp so the same as superb engine? 

 

Are there any special instructions or pitfalls to tell the mechanic tomorrow? It's general garage, not specialist or dealer. 

 

A G69 replacement has been ordered on standby from Eurocarparts as insurance if clean fails. I don't know what part it is exactly but was £180. Was told it could be returned in less than a week if unopened / unneeded and I wouldn't be charged for it. 

 

Oh, and my own reader came today curtesy of Amazon, bought an opened one for £15. Reckon someone used it once then sent for full refund. 

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