As the title says, changed the plugs about a month or so ago, seemed to have cured the misfire at the time and now its back, only when you floor it between around 4-5k rpm it has a slight misfire and because i’ve decatted it, it’s much more noticeable. 

 

I am looking to upgrade the coils,  R8 coilpacks have been spoken highly of so i suppose thats the way to go? Awesomegti sells them for RS3’s then theres a 2.0TFSI version and a 1.8.. all different prices, which one fits the Fabia VRS?

 

if the problem persists take it to a VAG specialist for diagnostics?

Have you scanned the car when these misfires have happened?

Have you tried swapping coil packs over to see if it’s a certain one? 

Which spark plugs have you had fitted? 

 

Are you on the mk2 Fabia vrs group on the ol’ Book of face? They’ll be able to give you the details I know a few that run them.

 

i believe 2 wires have to be swapped over on the loom before fitting.

Edited 21 May, 20197 yr by LGM

This is hunch but have a another look at them spark plugs, one of them might have burnt out, when i got my car mapped + using Denso's and Milltek Exhaust i spent a lot of time revving the car in open spaces only to realise the rev limiter at 4K didnt really achieve me anything.  I also have a GFB DV+ and asked them to take it out to check as it was second hand.

 

Turned out it wasnt that & when they looked at the plugs one of the Denso's was damaged.

 

I do not think this car likes being revved at idle and you have removed your limiter?

 

The Denso was only in a few months and failed, (the one one the right was a previous failure the year before when burning oil)

 

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/465359-fabia-vrs-mk2-coilpack

 

 

Does the person that messed about remapping or coding not have a clue what is wrong.

If it mis-fired before the remap then remapping it was just wrong until all was right with things. 

Edited 21 May, 20197 yr by Skoffski

23 minutes ago, LGM said:

Have you scanned the car when these misfires have happened?

Have you tried swapping coil packs over to see if it’s a certain one? 

Which spark plugs have you had fitted? 

 

Are you on the mk2 Fabia vrs group on the ol’ Book of face? They’ll be able to give you the details I know a few that run them.

 

i believe 2 wires have to be swapped over on the loom before fitting.

Denso’s fitted a month ago. 

I havent touched the coil packs just looking the upgrade them to the r8 ones as they have been good for a lot of people

i will check the plugs again but its a nuisance to get them out

 

i am not on the facebook group no, but that’d be interesting if they hold car meets etc

 

which 2 wires are you talking about?

19 minutes ago, Kobayashi said:

This is hunch but have a another look at them spark plugs, one of them might have burnt out, when i got my car mapped + using Denso's and Milltek Exhaust i spent a lot of time revving the car in open spaces only to realise the rev limiter at 4K didnt really achieve me anything.  I also have a GFB DV+ and asked them to take it out to check as it was second hand.

 

Turned out it wasnt that & when they looked at the plugs one of the Denso's was damaged.

 

I do not think this car likes being revved at idle and you have removed your limiter?

 

The Denso was only in a few months and failed, (the one one the right was a previous failure the year before when burning oil)

 

 

Wow thats unbelievable i suppose revving it hard isnt a good idea then. Yeah i will check them again, i have the rev limiter removed, decat and straight piped it really so its always tempting to rev it higher in the RPM for that eargasm

 

is your miltek non-res?

any videos?

21 minutes ago, Skoffski said:

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/465359-fabia-vrs-mk2-coilpack

 

 

Does the person that messed about remapping or coding not have a clue what is wrong.

If it mis-fired before the remap then remapping it was just wrong until all was right with things. 

The remap did not cause the misfire.

the dyno caused it. Many people have come back with these kind of issues after dyno’ing any car really just google and check that. 

once i got the plugs replaced it was fine.

Now its started again but i suppose it could be because i had pops installed on the ECU and due to high revving potentially a plug has busted again?

i will check the plugs first and if they seem fine i suppose i’ll get the coilpacks

do you have a link for me for the correct coils?

@RezaVrs

 

Let me be blunt.  Best not try and teach granny or grandad how to suck eggs.

 

You seem to be lead up the garden pack by Social Media and you were told early on that it has all been done and people have experienced lots with twinchargers, 

you seem to just repeat others past errors by doing the same old same old.

 

You have been given link after link since first posting on lowering the car and advice and you seem to ignore the links and advice.

Edited 21 May, 20197 yr by Skoffski

27 minutes ago, RezaVrs said:

 

Now its started again but i suppose it could be because i had pops installed on the ECU and due to high revving potentially a plug has busted again?

Ive read about them ‘pops and bangs’ on the 1.4tsi and they’ve not ended very well, they’ll knacker your engine in no time, same for that launch control too as it puts too much strain on the clutch and gearbox.

 

when you pop the plugs out check the number, make sure they’re SKJ20CR-A8’s. I’ve been running them for the past 4 years and I’ve never had a problem with them, make sure they’re gapped to 0.6mm.

 

best thing to do is scan the car, see which cylinder is misfiring and then swap 2 coil packs over, if it’s now the other cylinder misfiring it’ll be the coil pack. 

 

I have no idea which 2 wires you swap over because I’ve not got them, it’s just what you read on the internet with people who have them installed, I believe they come with instructions though.

 

personally if you want a car that’s gunna last I’d remove them pops, bangs and whatever crap you have installed, keep the remap. If you’re gunna keep it then get saving for a new engine while it’s running 👍

Edited 21 May, 20197 yr by LGM

13 minutes ago, Skoffski said:

@RezaVrs

 

Let me be blunt.  Best not try and teach granny or grandad how to suck eggs.

 

You seem to be lead up the garden pack by Social Media and you were told early on that it has all been done and people have experienced lots with twinchargers, 

you seem to just repeat others past errors by doing the same old same old.

 

You have been given link after link since first posting on lowering the car and advice and you seem to ignore the links and advice.

In your opinion its a mistake to remap a car before all is in order. 

Funny thing is ive made it clear twice the car was and still is immaculate. Thats why i didnt modify anything in the first 6 months of ownership. You think i’m just diving head first not knowing anything and making mistakes

ive done my research thats why i dont have the CAVE engine and other mistakes people have made buddy. I suffer from memory loss and for you to class that as ignorance is a very bold move.

 

but hey, no one is forcing you to respond to each and every single query i post. 

33 minutes ago, RezaVrs said:

The remap did not cause the misfire.

the dyno caused it. Many people have come back with these kind of issues after dyno’ing any car really just google and check that. 

once i got the plugs replaced it was fine.

Now its started again but i suppose it could be because i had pops installed on the ECU and due to high revving potentially a plug has busted again?

i will check the plugs first and if they seem fine i suppose i’ll get the coilpacks

do you have a link for me for the correct coils?

 

Spark Plug check first, Im still on a original coilpacks (apart from cyliner 3 replaced OEM) so that is nearly 9 years. No need to uprate to 'Audi ones' though on some members did use the TMG ones, not tried myself..

http://www.tmg-performance.com/en/products/ignition/r8-335.html

 

'Non res Milltek' this video seems loud in an enclosed space. But i can creep up on folk on works car park & they dont even notice im there!

 

 

 

 

Another DYNO run should not cause issues unless something not right to start with or something has recently failed...(ie plug / coil)

 Was you map custom tweaked (or a cut & paste)

 

ADE did mine custom i saw all the cut & paste figures at other places of 210BHP (Stage 1) and told them to build some extra safety margin in & maybe get to around 200 (my car was down at 174 Pre map) We settled on 202BHP. 

Edited 21 May, 20197 yr by Kobayashi

@RezaVrs

I think you got 195 bhp on a dyno and as the car was with the engine it had and the software on the ecu it might of already had 195 bhp.

 

You came here with your research, i watched your videos and the other guys, and it is the blind leading the blind.

Have fun.

3 minutes ago, LGM said:

Ive read about them ‘pops and bangs’ on the 1.4tsi and they’ve not ended very well, they’ll knacker your engine in no time, same for that launch control too as it puts too much strain on the clutch and gearbox.

 

when you pop the plugs out check the number, make sure they’re SKJ20CR-A8’s. I’ve been running them for the past 4 years and I’ve never had a problem with them, make sure they’re gapped to 0.6mm.

 

best thing to do is scan the car, see which cylinder is misfiring and then swap 2 coil packs over, if it’s now the other cylinder misfiring it’ll be the coil pack. 

 

I have no idea which 2 wires you swap over because I’ve not got them, it’s just what you read on the internet with people who have them installed, I believe they come with instructions though.

 

personally if you want a car that’s gunna last I’d remove them pops, bangs and whatever crap you have installed, keep the remap. If you’re gunna keep it then get saving for a new engine while it’s running 👍

Not really sure where you got launch control from as I never mentioned i have that or anything.

i drive very sensibly, at times i put my foot down and only get pops and bangs high in the rpm range which i dont always visit.

Yes pops and bangs can be bad for the engine but mainly in the lower range of the RPM’s. Between 1-4k i dont have popping and banging.

this is my project and ive modified it to my appeals. Whether you or anyone else believes its a wrong decision or inadvisable is down to your liking but each to their own, same how some have miltek exhausts others dont, some have GFB DV+ and find the turbo work alot better like myself and others dont. Opinions vary, and I just think it completely sucks for you people to be so pessimistic about a new comer that’s trying out things that may have been tried before by others and failed rather than hoping for the best. Really nice bunch you are lol

Not pessimistic to try and help you not gub your engine as many have before.

The people here with Twinchargers that are still running are doing something right or are dead lucky.

 

It is enthusiasts on here and some that have had more than the 1 vRS, and can have had a CAVE and a CTHE, and have had new engines as your car had i seem to remember.

 

EDIT.

Sorry, is it the other guy with the replacement engine.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/463833-fabia-vrs-mk2-lowering-and-further-mods

 

Edited 21 May, 20197 yr by Skoffski

15 minutes ago, RezaVrs said:

Not really sure where you got launch control from as I never mentioned i have that or anything.

i drive very sensibly, at times i put my foot down and only get pops and bangs high in the rpm range which i dont always visit.

Yes pops and bangs can be bad for the engine but mainly in the lower range of the RPM’s. Between 1-4k i dont have popping and banging.

this is my project and ive modified it to my appeals. Whether you or anyone else believes its a wrong decision or inadvisable is down to your liking but each to their own, same how some have miltek exhausts others dont, some have GFB DV+ and find the turbo work alot better like myself and others dont. Opinions vary, and I just think it completely sucks for you people to be so pessimistic about a new comer that’s trying out things that may have been tried before by others and failed rather than hoping for the best. Really nice bunch you are lol

I didn’t say you had it, I just said it’s bad for the engine 😊. 

 

Anything to do with over fueling is bad for any engine especially the 1.4’s as they’re known for bore wash. 

At the end of the day it’s your vehicle, you paid for it, you drive it so do whatever you want to do with it you go ahead. Just don’t post back here saying it’s broken cos people will say “I told you so”. 

 

Ive had 2 vrs’ now both with CAVE engines and they don’t use a single drop of oil. I’ve owned mine for 4 years and never had a problem apart from a broken wire to the map sensor a few years back causing it to go into limp mode at 3k rpm. I’ve done my mods to it and I’m happy with it, milltek exhaust, CAI, rarb, 4 pot brakes and so on, it’s been the same for the past 3 years and I’ve not even needed to remap it cos I enjoy the power as it is now. I know this works so why tinker with it even more just for the extra 20-30 brake?

 

You come on the forums in general to ask for advice, tips or whatever, don’t take offence if people have different views it’s the internet. People don’t care what you do.

As I said before though it’s your choice so enjoy and good luck 😊

Edited 21 May, 20197 yr by LGM

try a smaller gap, I'm using denso plugs at 0.4mm and it cured my misfire issue 

2 hours ago, Skoffski said:

Not pessimistic to try and help you not gub your engine as many have before.

The people here with Twinchargers that are still running are doing something right or are dead lucky.

 

It is enthusiasts on here and some that have had more than the 1 vRS, and can have had a CAVE and a CTHE, and have had new engines as your car had i seem to remember.

 

EDIT.

Sorry, is it the other guy with the replacement engine.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/463833-fabia-vrs-mk2-lowering-and-further-mods

 

I appreciate that but theres a way you advise someone in a preventative manner and theres a way to make it sound they’re being stupid and have no clue what they’re getting into. 

 

My car is and was always the CTHE code, when i bought it from Skoda Eastbourne they advised me the previous owner sold it to them and they replaced the engine and all its components (which they’ve provided me with an invoice as evidence) so what the reason was or why the engine change i didnt question i was just really happy with it and still 8 months down the line more happier.. 

i’ve just come here with a common issue that has nothing to do with any modifications ive done but as a result of the dyno. I was driving it for over two weeks post-remap with no issues the second i drive away from the ramp of the dyno its misifiring

2 hours ago, LGM said:

I didn’t say you had it, I just said it’s bad for the engine 😊. 

 

Anything to do with over fueling is bad for any engine especially the 1.4’s as they’re known for bore wash. 

At the end of the day it’s your vehicle, you paid for it, you drive it so do whatever you want to do with it you go ahead. Just don’t post back here saying it’s broken cos people will say “I told you so”. 

 

Ive had 2 vrs’ now both with CAVE engines and they don’t use a single drop of oil. I’ve owned mine for 4 years and never had a problem apart from a broken wire to the map sensor a few years back causing it to go into limp mode at 3k rpm. I’ve done my mods to it and I’m happy with it, milltek exhaust, CAI, rarb, 4 pot brakes and so on, it’s been the same for the past 3 years and I’ve not even needed to remap it cos I enjoy the power as it is now. I know this works so why tinker with it even more just for the extra 20-30 brake?

 

You come on the forums in general to ask for advice, tips or whatever, don’t take offence if people have different views it’s the internet. People don’t care what you do.

As I said before though it’s your choice so enjoy and good luck 😊

I have no issues with people having different views, I actually encourage that as it gives me insight into what other option is possible or what someone else thinks is the right way and why. I take offence when people use silly sayings like blind leading the blind 

really unecessary if you ask me.

 

2 hours ago, Kobayashi said:

 

Spark Plug check first, Im still on a original coilpacks (apart from cyliner 3 replaced OEM) so that is nearly 9 years. No need to uprate to 'Audi ones' though on some members did use the TMG ones, not tried myself..

http://www.tmg-performance.com/en/products/ignition/r8-335.html

 

'Non res Milltek' this video seems loud in an enclosed space. But i can creep up on folk on works car park & they dont even notice im there!

 

 

 

 

Another DYNO run should not cause issues unless something not right to start with or something has recently failed...(ie plug / coil)

 Was you map custom tweaked (or a cut & paste)

 

ADE did mine custom i saw all the cut & paste figures at other places of 210BHP (Stage 1) and told them to build some extra safety margin in & maybe get to around 200 (my car was down at 174 Pre map) We settled on 202BHP. 

Thats awesome.

Im really keen on getting on the dyno once more but not until im absolutely certain theres no misfires or anything that will hold back the slightest bit of power so maybe a fresh tank of oil and a new oil filter along with this misfire issue rectified will give me some great results i hope

 

I’m really keen on doing a Fabia VRS meet has anyone done one or been to one? How to organise one?

@RezaVrs

The rebuild has a lot to do with things, and which ECU is on the car and what Engine Management as it left the factory, and what your 'coder unlocked' if they did to get 195 ps which the car maybe had anyway.

 

All basic stuff if you look into what you actually have in the way of a rebuild and the ECU. 

That is for the engine, i am not speaking about the mapping of the DSG.

 

?

So what has it, a replaced Base engine, did it need a ECU as well as they could not get the new engine running with the ECU that was on the car?

This is the stuff that makes a difference.

Then was the Cat replaced because it had been contaminated with the Oil user that had been in the car.

 

Replacing an engine and all the parts is something the invoice needs to show.

 

The Engine can come with new plugs, the coils are not replaced, the water pump is the same, the belts etc.

So what are all its components? What more than a crate engine?

Edited 21 May, 20197 yr by Skoffski

1 hour ago, Skoffski said:

@RezaVrs

The rebuild has a lot to do with things, and which ECU is on the car and what Engine Management as it left the factory, and what your 'coder unlocked' if they did to get 195 ps which the car maybe had anyway.

 

All basic stuff if you look into what you actually have in the way of a rebuild and the ECU. 

That is for the engine, i am not speaking about the mapping of the DSG.

 

?

So what has it, a replaced Base engine, did it need a ECU as well as they could not get the new engine running with the ECU that was on the car?

This is the stuff that makes a difference.

Then was the Cat replaced because it had been contaminated with the Oil user that had been in the car.

 

Replacing an engine and all the parts is something the invoice needs to show.

 

The Engine can come with new plugs, the coils are not replaced, the water pump is the same, the belts etc.

So what are all its components? What more than a crate engine?

Okay a simple test:

Car prior to remap had the best 0-60 times (trial and error approx 50 times in the span of 1-2 months) of 6.24 seconds. 

Remap done, dyno’d at 195bhp with misfiring issues (and an overdue oil + oil filter replacement issue) possibly holding back the 10-20 extra horses.

 

spark plugs sorted, car worked wonders. Now best 0-60 time i’ve got recorded is 5.75 seconds. This time i did the launches around 15 times and within about 1-2 weeks of replacing the plugs and different weather conditions and different roads I achieved that without adjusting it further aside from the plugs.

 

this clearly tells me the map has worked, i just do not want to dyno it for one final figure unless im absolutely certain i dont have any misfiring issues what so ever. So if i need new R8 coil packs as insurance, ill do that.

 

ive attached engine replacement invoice

Brilliant.  So a base engine, that can be brand new or refurbished from the factory and looks like a new ECU was not required.

19 minutes ago, Skoffski said:

Brilliant.  So a base engine, that can be brand new or refurbished from the factory and looks like a new ECU was not required.

So what does that mean for me? Just means the ECU is the old one and the engine is new but ... ?

It means you have a car that had an CTHE engine that was an oil burner, and has the ECU that was fitted at the factory.

If it was my car i would check the build date and the Warranty / Service history before the engine replacement, 

i would want to know what Engine Management / Map it had, and was it an CTHE that had a 'software update', because some early cars required that.

 

Once you have no misfires and know it all well again i would get a stage 1 remap, maybe from APR.  

Nothing Custom unless the person doing it has CTHE experience.

The 0-60 time is affected by available traction much more than power, the quarter trap speed will show the power increase much better. When I changed from worn Rain sport 3's to Pilot Sport 4's my 0-60 fell by 0.4 seconds. 

 

George is correct that the car could have been making 195hp before and the same now but with a nice torque increase that you feel. If you are happy with how it drives why does a power figure matter?.

 

On a side note, I was using an MBC to see what the turbo could do when really pushed... Even at 25psi peak it didn't make any more power at 6000, just lots more between 4000 and 5000 do I didn't see the point and went back to my Bluespark.