So I've owned my 2011 mk2 fabia vrs for a little over two weeks now and a couple of times run in to starting troubles, had battery checked and it's fine, charged it up and now seems ok.

 

Then a few days ago I noticed the throttle/engine pulling back slightly when holding revs at various speeds (mainly in Sport mode). The DSG has also been slow to drop a gear in normal drive mode on the odd occasion.

 

Then yesterday after a few miles driving, when pulling up to stop and with engine running I noticed a slight knocking/tapping sound that wasn't there before.

 

I have warranty so not overly concerned and will get it checked out asap, but wondering if anyone has experienced similar issues?

 

Car has a full skoda history, 32kmiles, very recent skoda service and health check too. Oil changed and topped up. I have noticed some oil marks around the dipstick and oil cap.

 

I've attached a couple of sound clips of the noise coming from engine. Will take it for a drive shortly and see if any of these items remain.

My Recording_2.mp3 My Recording_1.mp3

Who is the Warranty with?

 

As to the Skoda health check & the Full Service History,

what is it a history of, 8 Oil Changes?

?

When were the spark plugs last changed, or the Air Filter, the brake fluid.

Has '34F7' been done on the DSG, a service campaign.

 

Has the car had a new water pump?

Warranty is Skoda (purchased by me) and also with dealer I purchased from (first 3 months).

 

It's followed the Skoda schedule in terms of servicing. They checked spark plugs at service week before last. I'll check on brake fluid etc although that isn't my current concern.

 

I don't know about the DSG software or water pump. I'll need to read through it's history. It did have a lambda sensor replaced just prior to me purchasing. 

 

Thanks

Edited 5 June, 20197 yr by MRA13

If the tech removed all 4 spark plugs to inspect and check the gap new plugs should have been fitted.

Did the report say spark plugs removed and checked?

 

Full service histories are good for showing what is not done.

Manufacturers recommendation was Brake fluid change in 2014, 2016 and 2018.  So just gives an idea, Service Schedule at main dealers means nothing.

 

If your DSG had '34F7' there should be a sticker in the boot telling you that.

 

As to the Water Pump / Supercharger magnetic clutch, that might be due soon.

 

So ask the Main Dealership that did the Health Check.

Were the 4 spark plugs out, 

Has '34F7' been done, 

& any other Service Campaign or Warranty work done over the last 8 years at Main Dealers.

 

If you think something is wrong with the car and noises report ASAP, as a Skoda Warranty can be rubbish, but they should not say Known Problem, 

if there is the Dealership or Warranty seller knew. You never knew, you got a Health Check and clean report.

http://skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions

 

 

Edited 5 June, 20197 yr by Skoffski

I've spoke to both the dealer and skoda to notify them, thanks for the additional info.

 

After driving out 4 miles just now, stopping then waiting for around 3 to 4 minutes with ignition switched on (drls running and inputting in to rns315) but engine not cranked the car again wouldn't start. I checked the battery and it's reading 12.04 volts, last night was 12.34 volts despite having a solar trickle charger plugged in.

 

I suspect it's the alternator or connection if the battery is supposedly of good health as per last check. Let's see.

12 volts is very low, mine starts at around 13.5V an then goes up to 15V. I get the same reading from my Android stereo as one of the digital plugins, When i was getting 12V to 12.5V it was time for a new battery

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Car-Caravan-Dual-USB-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Splitter-Charger-Adapter-3-1A/123750305973?hash=item1cd017d0b5:m:mcSgKcRFcoGOtXeMmQavytw

Cheers, have a fast charge 3.0 cigarette lighter but scared to use it given recent experience! RAC on route so hopefully a quick diagnosis and resolution. After a jump start last week I drove to nearest halfords and their device indicated battery health was fine but let's see.

2 minutes ago, MRA13 said:

battery health was fine

Yeah, but that's capacity to hold charge rather than actual charge level. Presuming you don't have any form of "smart" charger controls, you should have about 12.3v engine off, and 14.4 with it running.

RAC measured it 11.09v off just now, charging and diagnosing it currently.

Bad cell diagnosed so battery replaced with a decent premium varta 027 61ah battery. I'll get the other items mentioned checked out but alternator seems ok. The battery check I had after jump start last week was obviously not in-depth enough on reflection.

 

One thing of note, even after being locked the car drew around 1.8 down to 1.1amps for a good 5 minutes+ before finally going to full "sleep".

 

Cheers

Well, so much for Halfraud's battery health check then. A cell did not die that fast.

1 minute ago, KenONeill said:

Well, so much for Halfraud's battery health check then. A cell did not die that fast.

Haha, indeed, I think their device showed the battery was able to maintain a charge but perhaps not sophisticated enough to diagnose a defective cell. I'll mention it when I am next there and see what they say.

Sometimes you need RAC quite useful if you have battery replace cover. Also in the early days when I had misfires they would come out to work and diagnose which cylinder misfiring... 

Here is a link to the rattling from engine

 

 

Noticeable retardation and vibration from engine when driving after it's warmed up. Car booked in next week...

 

Are these oil marks normal? I'll check levels, oil was fine and clear/clean after recent service at main dealer.

Engines not sounding great, but videos tend to do that.  Yours still sounds a bit sick though.

 

 

Someone has been careless topping up the oil.

Maybe never put the cap on properly, not unusual as Tom Jones had a hit with.

 

Take the cap off and see if the rubber around the filler has oil in it.

Put the cap on the other way so the oil can faces you.   It makes me nervous seeing one that way.....

 

I would take the top cover off and see if the rubber bung is missing the holds it down. 

Cover pulls up and slips off.

 

What date is on that little orange sticker?

 

*****Watch the coolant does not drop any, possible sign it is new water pump time.******

 

 

See the rubber  at the dip stick.  there is similar below the oil filler that catches oil when people spill filling up.

& top where the cover slips into and the rubber gets lost or that bit gets broken.

 

 

 

Edited 6 June, 20197 yr by Skoffski

I'll take a look at this all now, engine definitely sounds and feels sick. Today has intermitment EML flashing. Was worse when holding higher revs and then the DSG was being sloppy in holding gears (possibly due to engine issues).

Changed the cap round for you 😁

 

Date on orange sticker is 27,0X,2011

 

Oil level was fine on dipstick when checked now. Car is warm and be stopped for around 30 mins. Oil was serviced and changed 22nd May at main dealer.

More pics.

I would not check your oil warm and after 30 minutes, even if doing the same each time.

 

Check tomorrow when stone cold.

Then at some point do as the owners manual would say if translated properly.

Check at normal operating temperature.

 

So that will be when the oil has got above 80*oC towards 90*oC,  then stopped for a 'few minutes' so that is 3, 4 or 4 minutes.

Then you know the oil level before the engine has been driven and when you get someplace, like stopped at a filling station.

Interesting, went for a drive and just got back. Oil temp around 80-90 degrees. This is the level...I will wait a few more minutes for oil to drain back to the sump and test again.

 

I've done around 5-600 miles in the car since I bought it and it's had "two" oil services in that time.

Edited 8 June, 20197 yr by MRA13

IMO & IME a good quantity of oil will have the level showing on the flat above the cross hatch with a stone cold engine, 

and at operating temp at the top of the cross hatch.

 

?

So is you engine drinking oil?

 

 

I want the oil to be here after an oil change and taking it for at least a 5 mile drive and checking, if below i would be topping it up to here.

Cold after a good few hours and it should be on the flat above.

 

 

Edited 8 June, 20197 yr by Skoffski

I checked just now and the level is creeping up on the dipstick. Yesterday you could see it was positioned at "full" after driving.

 

I drive quite relaxed and let engine warm up and cool down. I initially noticed the retardation when car was holding gear, either in Sport mode or up hills (lots of uphill from here as I live near river). Will find out Monday when it's in at the dealer. Maybe an engine module or component. Maybe worse, let's see. Thanks

Forget 'sport' mode for now.  See if all is well with the engine.

 

You have 6 gears in Sport mode not 7.

You are revving higher before gear changes.

Just now, Skoffski said:

Forget 'sport' mode for now.  See if all is well with the engine.

 

You have 6 gears in Sport mode not 7.

You are revving higher before gear changes.

I just noticed that the time when I felt the engine was trying to hold or push back it was when the car was holding or trying to hold higher revs. Then at times (albeit it is hilly here) it's been sluggish changing up. None of these symptoms were noticeable in the first few days or weeks of owning the car. Battery has been replaced but engine symptoms have remained or worsened slightly. Thanks