Hi All

I was wondering if anyone has any experience of upgrading what I suspect is the original stereo in a 94 Favorit.   I say original because the wires from the loom go directly into the stereo (blaupunkt) with no adaptor or obvious mods.   The Haynes manual suggests I have a permanent live (orange) but gives no colour for the earth or the speaker wires so not much help really!   In reality I don't even have the orange wire it suggests. The wires go into the stereo in two clusters. one has a blue, green, grey and brown wire. I assume they are the + and - for the speakers. I have no idea which is which though. The second cluster has a white , a yellow and three red wires. Now I assume the white is earth and the reds permanent live, but why would there be three reds? And what about the yellow? There is no switched live on the Fav so surely the stereo only needs a single permanent live? 

I can check for the live and earth with a meter but would still be good to know why so many wires 

Cheers

Wes

Edited 8 June, 20197 yr by wesacosa

Right, so I checked the wires with the meter. The white is the earth, one of the reds is the permanent live, the yellow and the other two reds don't seem to be live at all.  I have the instrument panel out so can't check the lights yet but perhaps the yellow is a radio illumination? However I have no idea what the other two reds are. Would be very strange to have a live loop through the radio to some other equipment so I am at a loss. I guess I will wire up the new one with the current permie live, a switch live from the fusebox and leave the other two reds and the yellow disconnected and see what happens.  

 

As for the grey,brown, blue and green. i guess I can play around with them until the speakers work

Wes

Think what wires you'll need on the new radio. You'll need A4,A6,A7,A8 and B3,B4,B5,B6 (see ISO connector diagram) at minimum. A6 is common with side lights.

Use an ohmmeter to identify which one of grey, brown, blue and green wires pair up for the left/right front speakers.

You can use A5 to feed power to the antenna amplifier which is usually found at the base of antenna.

You will also need 2 extra pair of wires for 2 optional rear speakers (B1,B2,B7,B8).

Thanks Ricardo . 

Wes

13 minutes ago, RicardoM said:

Think what wires you'll need on the new radio. You'll need A4,A6,A7,A8 and B3,B4,B5,B6 (see ISO connector diagram) at minimum. A6 is common with side lights.

Use an ohmmeter to identify which one of grey, brown, blue and green wires pair up for the left/right front speakers.

You can use A5 to feed power to the antenna amplifier which is usually found at the base of antenna.

You will also need 2 extra pair of wires for 2 optional rear speakers (B1,B2,B7,B8).

Can I test polarity with a multimeter? I guess testing the resistance will show the correct pairs , but can I also tell the positive or negative, or is that just a case of trying both ways and seeing which gives best sound?

Cheers

Wes

This video should clear things out for you. You'll need access to the front of the speaker obviously to see the movement of the speaker cone.

If your multimeter has a 9V battery then you don't need the test using a battery. You'll be able to see the movement of the cone when you measure the resistance on the lowest scale of Ohms.

 

 

perfect.. Thanks

That block diagram is only good for the iso connectors and looking at the picture of the connector on your radio that isn't an iso connector 

6 minutes ago, nige8021 said:

That block diagram is only good for the iso connectors and looking at the picture of the connector on your radio that isn't an iso connector 

the old one isn't but the new one is Iso. Just going to have to cut and shut the wiring I think

36 minutes ago, nige8021 said:

That block diagram is only good for the iso connectors and looking at the picture of the connector on your radio that isn't an iso connector 

First of all, that is not a block diagram. It is an illustration of a standard ISO connector.

Second, read again (but carefully this time) the initial post of OP, especially the part where he said he wants to upgrade his radio. All modern radios have ISO connectors. The best approach is to identify existing wires, cut them, and solder (or better crimp) them to new pins for an ISO connector.

15 hours ago, wesacosa said:

Can I test polarity with a multimeter? I guess testing the resistance will show the correct pairs , but can I also tell the positive or negative, or is that just a case of trying both ways and seeing which gives best sound?

Cheers

Wes

Unless you have a trained ear or eye you wont be able to hear or see polarity of a speaker when playing. 

The best approach is after figuring out the wires that give the proper resistance 8 or 6 or 4 to touch a 9v battery and then see the movent as the video posted by Ricardo clearly demonstrates

Edited 10 June, 20197 yr by Thefeliciahacker

As I see them the 4 that are alone are propably the outputs

Then the yellow could be the remote 12v wire. 

Still it may be present but unused, it could also be the lighting. 

Then adapt them to new style connectors and you will be good to go. 

Edited 10 June, 20197 yr by Thefeliciahacker

8 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

As I see them the 4 that are alone are propably the outputs

Then the yellow could be the remote 12v wire. 

Still it may be present but unused, it could also be the lighting. 

Then adapt them to new style connectors and you will be good to go. 

 

thanks all. will give it a go tonight.  Main concern now is the three red wires with only one seemingly live but if i wire up without the two "spare" ones and everything still works I will assume they were not important

In case it helps anyone in the future, on my 1994 Fav with factory Blaupunkt head unit

 

One of the reds is permanent live, other 2 reds don't appear to do anything

 

White is earth

 

Yellow was not confirmed, but could be illumination. This was not needed on the new stereo

 

Blue is LHS Front speaker negative

Brown is LHS front speaker positive

Green is RHS front speaker negative

Grey is RHS front speaker positive

 

For the switched live I used a piggy back fuse from one of the ignition switched circuits in the fuse box