I wonder if the problem is where the main plug goes into the back of the headlight unit or between that and the bulbs. Remove the plug and see if there is 12 volts at the plug pin corresponding to the yellow/black wire with dip beam on.

 

 

Edited 19 June, 20196 yr by TMB

49 minutes ago, Jackturno1 said:

Where exactly would I run the new wires from?

 

Ideally from as close to the fuse box as possible. You might have to take the wire through the bulkhead somewhere. I believe there is a grommet that can be used behind the glovebox which only needs a few screws removing to get it out.

 

Try the main plug test first though as it would be easier to fix if the problem is between that and the bulbs.

Edited 19 June, 20196 yr by TMB

I have tried this already and there’s nothing there, I think I’m gonna have to take it to an auto electrician 

OK well we were almost there but you do need to be able to solder and stuff. We proved that there must be a break between fuse and light.

If op is not into soldering, might I suggest crimping the new wire. Screwfix have some not too dear tools ,and crimps are not expensive. if going down that route, I'd suggest covering the crimp +a bit on either side with heatshrink. ( prvents problems with stray wires that can get out of crimp - some places offer heatshrink covered crimps)). There's two schools of thought with soldering. especially with extremes of weather ( such as under a bonnet). + side, it's a good mechanical joint if done properly with no spikes to stick through heatshrink. - side, extreme of weather ,especially cold can cause solder to crystallise and tend to a dry joint. I prefrer a crimp ( usually a red one on car wiring) covered with heatshrink. If bothered by ingress of damp, then fill inside of crimp with something like silicone ( before shrinking).(Problem is that it makes for a messy job. ) More importantly is a pull test on the crimped joint- a gentle tug on both wires makes certain that there's a good mechanical joint. I only covered the joints on the replacement connector with heatshrink and they've lasted for more than a few years. As for wire for the final replacement. Most lamps are 55w ( 60 is a better mathematical number ). So current through wire is ( formula is watts = amps times volts. ) . I might be one to err on the high side, but I'd be looking at approx 7.5A wire. (  plenty excess current capacity and lower volt drop).

 

Yeah crimping would work.

 

I know what you're saying about solder joints but I've made quite a few in engine bays over the years and never had an issue. I just make sure they are well sealed.