Any mk1 fabia electric people in here? Had the connector on the back of the passenger main/dip beam melt don’t know how or why, i changed fuse although it wasn’t blown, and the headlight and still not coming on so took the voltmeter and checked the two black and yellow wires on the connector that goes to the headlight and that has 0v but on the other side it’s reading 12v as it should, anyone had this problem? I have also swapped a light switch from another fabia and still it’s not working? Any suggestions?

The connector may have melted due to a poor connection between the bulb spade terminals and the connector block with the resistance causing it to get hot. You can buy and splice in a new connector block.

 

Dip beam (H7) connector block... 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-H7-2-Pin-Headlight-Replacement-Repair-Bulb-Holder-Connector-Plug-Wire-Socket/131991116024?epid=3016490353&hash=item1ebb4898f8:g:QNoAAOSwXeJYGipJ&frcectupt=true

  

On the left hand headlight there should be live at the yellow/black wire with dipped beam turned on. The brown wires are earths.

   

Did you check the correct fuse (number 54 - 15Amp)? 

As per TMB

Had a similar problem last year . The plastic of the connector melted( passenger side). I'd suspect a HR on the connector ( = bad connection, which leads to heat generated in the connection. Leading to melted plastic). I simply found a new connector in my local motor factor and cut out the old one, replacing wire for wire, crimping th wires with an over layer of heatshrink . workspace is tight  and I found that I had to remove the battery.

Don't forget that due to current through any joint, that the joint must be a good one, as any poor connection will drop volts to lamp. Due to current and likelyhood for volt drop in a bad joint, a meter on an off load ( cheching the volts on the connector ) will show normal battery volts. The only way to prove that the voltage at lamp is correct is to find a way to tap into the circuit at the connector, and measure volts at lamp with lamp drawing current.

 

Edited 18 June, 20196 yr by VWD

I have changed all 4 fuses, I have completely changed the headlights with new ones and yet they still aren’t working, the wires coming into the headlight have no power coming in so I think it’s somehwere else, the only wire in the plug with and volts is the grey and black and it shows 8v 

Check to see if there is 12 volts at fuse 54 wth dip beam on.

There is yes checked that

Then there is a break between there and the light.

Just seen the other posts. It now seems to be a voltage chasing excercise. Voltage at circuit side of fuse. yes- Voltage at connector - yes- Lamp?. No- headlamp/ stalk switches. But unless the plastic on the connector has melted badly ( and even then the fuse should have protected the stalk switches) and caused a short on the wiring, it might be worth just cutting off the old connector and looking for volts at the end of the wiring. In my case the lamp was plastic welded into the holder and a new connector solved the problem .

So if follow the yellow and black wires from the plug all the way through the engine bay into the dash and around the back of the dash to were exactly does it go because it has to go into a junction box before it goes to the light switch?

2 minutes ago, VWD said:

Just seen the other posts. It now seems to be a voltage chasing excercise. Voltage at circuit side of fuse. yes- Voltage at connector - yes- Lamp?. No- headlamp/ stalk switches. But unless the plastic on the connector has melted badly ( and even then the fuse should have protected the stalk switches) and caused a short on the wiring, it might be worth just cutting off the old connector and looking for volts at the end of the wiring. In my case the lamp was plastic welded into the holder and a new connector solved the problem .

I only had voltage on one of the wires in the headlight plug which was the sidelight wire, all others were as good as dead. the wire your talking about have already been replaced by the fact I’ve swapped out both headlight units for new one already

Take a long piece of wire from fuse 54 with dip turned on and touch it on the yellow/black of the bulb connector. See if the light comes on.

Edited 18 June, 20196 yr by TMB

7 minutes ago, VWD said:

Just seen the other posts. It now seems to be a voltage chasing excercise. Voltage at circuit side of fuse. yes- Voltage at connector - yes- Lamp?. No- headlamp/ stalk switches. But unless the plastic on the connector has melted badly ( and even then the fuse should have protected the stalk switches) and caused a short on the wiring, it might be worth just cutting off the old connector and looking for volts at the end of the wiring. In my case the lamp was plastic welded into the holder and a new connector solved the problem .

 

It can't be the switch if live is reaching fuse 54.

2 minutes ago, TMB said:

Take a long piece of wire from fuse 54 with dip turned on and touch it on the yellow/black of the bulb connector. See if the light comes on.

That’s genius! Thank you I will have to give that a go tomorrow if that’s the case then there is deffo a break in the line

Just now, Jackturno1 said:

That’s genius! Thank you I will have to give that a go tomorrow if that’s the case then there is deffo a break in the line

 

Yes that will prove it.

So the way I need to do that is take the light switch out the dash turn the light on, put a wire to which ever one powers the headlights run it round to the plug then what exactly should I do?

5 minutes ago, Jackturno1 said:

So the way I need to do that is take the light switch out the dash turn the light on, put a wire to which ever one powers the headlights run it round to the plug then what exactly should I do?

 

No, jam the wire into fuse 54 and touch the other end on the black/yellow at the bulb connector. You know you have 12 volts at the fuse, so the break has to be between there and the light. Be careful not to touch the wire onto a brown. Make sure dip is turned on when you do it.

Edited 18 June, 20196 yr by TMB

Thanks very much for your help, what do you suggest doing after this if it works?

You might have to run a new wire in to bypass the break.

so I would need to run a two wires one for dipped and one for main beam? 

Oh main isn't working either? Hmmm. Not sure yet. Do that test tomorrow and let us know what happens.

This is how it is when the lights are on and then if I try full beam it still doesn’t come on, I’ve used the voltmeter to test every wire in the plug and the only one that had any sort of voltage to it was the grey and black which is side lights, the LED strip in the picture has its own power supply so ignore that

^ Yeah. I don't know why main beam would be off too. Need to wait until you test the dip and I will have a further look at the wiring diagram.

Edited 18 June, 20196 yr by TMB

Thank you i don’t know if I have fully explained it or explained in a way you understand but I appreciate the help I’ll give that a test tomorrow is there any other way I can contact you more direct?