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left dpprs and windows won't work and stay locked

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Hi all, I've got this weird story to share about a 2011 skoda yeti (1.2).

 

I liove in Cyprus so my car is Right wheeled.

 

3-4 months ago, I tried to lower the windows to my parked car by pressing the "unlock" button on the keys.  Was very surprised to see that it didnt work, and when examining the situation, I realized that the left doors of the car (both front and back), wouldnt lock and would remain unlocked even though the rest of the car would lock (the right doors and hatchback would all three lock). 

 

I didnt care since I keep nothing of value in the car - plus who would think that only 2 doors would be unlocked..  It just wasnt an inconvenience, so I just didn't care.

 

Then, about 3 weeks later, the left doors that wouldnt lock, went on their own on lock mode, and now they won't unlock at all even from the inside, plus their windows won't operate at all!  Now its become a safety issue of course, since no one can open them from the outside OR the INSIDE, which I'm sure everyone can understand what a hazard that poses let alone the inconvenience. 

 

I've taken the car in the skoda shop for a 518 euro service (was in the shop for 5 days!!!) and the shop said they've looked far and wide, and there's nothing they can do about the doors. So they gave me back my mechanically serviced car, fully operational in every other respect, apart from the fact that the left doors and windows are completly locked.  I've asked the garage if they've contacted the factory, and they repeated "we've looked far and wide"

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated since people seem not to know what todo with this issue, plus I can't stress the danger this poses to the safety of the passengers...

 

thanks for reading, any ideas greatly appreciated!!

I’d suspect broken wires in the drivers door wiring loom myself. 

  • Author
1 hour ago, Tech1e said:

I’d suspect broken wires in the drivers door wiring loom myself. 

 

They've found some broken wiring in the Right (Driver's door); replaced it, but to no avail. The Left doors remained locked, and there's no access to the Left doors' wiring looms.  I had to tell them that they need to brake the plastic door cover from the inside to gain access, and then replace it at factory's cost.  They said they'd get back to me on that.  But that shouldn't be the customer's expense, since it's not the customer's fault they can't gain access to the door.  I understand having to pay for replacing the wires, but the fact that they can't have access unless they brake the plastic door cover shouldn't be the customer's concern.. We'll see how it goes I guess

I’d be looking at fault codes then and live data to see what state the door locks are in. 

1 hour ago, aerotronic said:

that shouldn't be the customer's expense

Well, I think it would be your cost on a 2011 car, at least under UK customer law, unless it was sold with a warranty.

  • Author
57 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

Well, I think it would be your cost on a 2011 car, at least under UK customer law, unless it was sold with a warranty.

 

 

strikes me as odd that a customer would say that.  I'll pay for the wiring, but it's not the customer's fault they can't have access to the door unless they brake the panel. it's their design's fault. If the wiring went bad, fine- i'll pay for it, but if you have to brake my car to get to the wiring, then its the design's fault.

Besides, they said it's never happened to them before, so we just discoved another skoda glitch

Edited by aerotronic
grammar

  • Author
2 hours ago, Tech1e said:

I’d be looking at fault codes then and live data to see what state the door locks are in. 

Cruise control retrofits - Skoda Master Technician 2004-2012

 

Thanks I'll look it up and probably let the shop know about it too - though i'm not etirely sure what to say to them exactly

10 minutes ago, aerotronic said:

strikes me as odd that a customer would say that.  I'll pay for the wiring, but it's not the customer's fault they can't have access to the door unless they brake the panel. it's their design's fault. If the wiring went bad, fine- i'll pay for it, but if you have to brake my car to get to the wiring, then its the design's fault.

Besides, they said it's never happened to them before, so we just discoved another skoda glitch

 

I kind of understand that, but there is no way to design that out. Door wiring needs to go into the door and the door needs to shut. Its a consequential result.

 

It's a bit like saying my flywheel failed and took out the gearbox casing. I'll pay for the flywheel but its poor design that it's inside the gearbox.

  • Author
Just now, Tech1e said:

 

I kind of understand that, but there is no way to design that out. Door wiring needs to go into the door and the door needs to shut. Its a consequential result.

 

It's a bit like saying my flywheel failed and took out the gearbox casing. I'll pay for the flywheel but its poor design that it's inside the gearbox.

 it would be poor design if they had to brake the gearbox to get to the flywheel though, which is the case with my door panel.  I don't have a problem with them taking the panel out to get to the wiring. the problem is that there's no way to get to the wiring unless they brake the panel.

Just now, aerotronic said:

 it would be poor design if they had to brake the gearbox to get to the flywheel though, which is the case with my door panel.  I don't have a problem with them taking the panel out to get to the wiring. the problem is that there's no way to get to the wiring unless they brake the panel.

 

I have removed them before without breaking them, it's more tricky on the front than the rear as it's tucked behind the dashboard. But they have designed the fixings so they will release with minimal movement. Compare that to older door trims where they were screwed in through the sides.

 

I've just replaced three door lock units that were all jammed in safe condition on a Superb and all the trim panels went back on with no breakages at all.

  • Author
Just now, Tech1e said:

 

I have removed them before without breaking them, it's more tricky on the front than the rear as it's tucked behind the dashboard. But they have designed the fixings so they will release with minimal movement. Compare that to older door trims where they were screwed in through the sides.

 

I've just replaced three door lock units that were all jammed in safe condition on a Superb and all the trim panels went back on with no breakages at all.

perfect!! so they lied to me then when they said that there was no way to access the door panel - which is what prompted me to suggest that they should brake (and replace) the door panel.

The smart way to handle it is caution the customer that some damage MAY occur, that way they are prepared if something does break and you look professional if you get it off without breaking it.

  • Author
Just now, Tech1e said:

The smart way to handle it is caution the customer that some damage MAY occur, that way they are prepared if something does break and you look professional if you get it off without breaking it.

LOOOOL!! Smart indeed. That made me lol for real :)

funny thing is they don't know if it's the wiring yet. They need to get to it to figure out if that's what causing it

 

Plug in diagnostics, look at the live data to the door. Soon seen if the door state isn’t recognised or if it’s jammed itself in safe mode. 

1 hour ago, aerotronic said:

 it would be poor design if they had to brake the gearbox to get to the flywheel though, which is the case with my door panel.  I don't have a problem with them taking the panel out to get to the wiring. the problem is that there's no way to get to the wiring unless they brake the panel.

 

They don't have to break the door!
They just need to unscrew all the fittings on the door, remove the door card and then remove the plastic water barrier.
There is NOTHING to break.

5 minutes ago, Llanigraham said:

They don't have to break the door!
They just need to unscrew all the fittings on the door, remove the door card and then remove the plastic water barrier.
There is NOTHING to break.

 

The door trim can break in this situation as you can't release the front edge very easily. And there is an aluminium carrier behind that needs to be removed along with the regulator to get into the door,

yetidoor.PNG

31 minutes ago, Llanigraham said:

 

They don't have to break the door!
They just need to unscrew all the fittings on the door, remove the door card and then remove the plastic water barrier.
There is NOTHING to break.


Is that possible with the door closed?

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