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Connector pin removal

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Help please! I've started retro fitting cruise control on my Octavia 1. I have to install 4 new pins into the socket on the bulkhead, which goes to the ECU. I've got the socket out, but there is a purple locking device on the socket which needs unlocking to enable the pins to be installed. I've pushed, pulled and ripped my hair out trying how to click the purple but in the unlock position. The closest thing I've found so far is , but the body and locking part are not quite the same as in the video. I'm getting desparate now, so any help would be most gratefully received.

Thank you - John.

 

This might help a little, also it may be worth sending Tech1e a pm as he used to do these quite a bit back in the day, so may have so insight to share.

Little flat blade screwdriver and ‘click’, done. 

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Thanks chaps - done it now. I just  wasn't applying enough pressure, being afraid of causing damage. Just got to put it all back together now!
Thanks again - John.

 

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Sorry folks - I'm back again. I've got the motor almost finished, but now I have come to enable the ECU CC facility, I find there is no 12 V supply to pin 16 on the OBDII connector. I've just tried searching to find where the supply comes from, and which fuse is involved. When I search , I find loads of extraneous information, but not what I'm looking for :-( I'm hoping it's a fuse (location yet to be found), my worst fear being I've got an error in the cabling/reassembly.  If Tech1e or anyone else could give me a clue how to trace the source of the 12 V on pin 16, I will be eternally grateful. Apologies for being a pain - I really have spent ages today trying to do it myself, but alas, no success.

Thanks - John.

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Fuse 12, 7.5 Amp on the first couple of diagrams I've just looked at.

What year is the car?

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Its a 2002 (52 plate) 2.0 petrol (only 53K on the clock). I did see a reference to a 7.5 amp fuse, so I looked in the box, and could only see one, which checks out OK, but I'm not sure what location number the fuse is. Could you point me toward a map please? Thank you for your quick reply.

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Think it's this one:

 

Annotation 2019-09-16 142736.png

What retro fit kit are you using?

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Ahh, thank you. That’s the 7.5 amp one I checked. I suspect I may have done something daft if the fuse is ok, and there is definitely no power on pin 16. I see trouble ahead 😒...

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Put another fuse in first, just in case there's an imperceptible fault with the first one.

Then make sure that what you're using as a ground/negative connection for the meter is actually grounded.

Then measure for 12V at the fuseholder pins, one of them should be permanent 12V. If that all checks out, must be a busted wire.

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5 minutes ago, Tech1e said:

What retro fit kit are you using?

It’s from a German company Kufatec. The kit seemed ok except that it was labelled in German ( not a problem), and the car seems to drive ok, except for not being able to activate the cc in the ecu. I have a 3rd party cable I’ve used on my last Octavia 1 ok, but the power led doesn’t come on on this motor. If apply 12 v of my work shop bench supply, it lights up and my laptop recognises the cp2102 interface ok (I work in electronics, but it’s a million miles from auto stuff). I will have to find the route the feed from the fuse takes to get to the obd connector - hoping it’s not via the ecu .

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17 minutes ago, RadioJohn said:

route the feed from the fuse takes to get to the obd connector

No complexities shown on the wiring diagram, jut goes straight from fuseholder to diag skt.

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The bod plug - pins 3/4 ground, pin 16+12 to interface. This was just on the bench, not in the car. It was just to prove that the usb to CAN works. The problem seems that there is no power between pins 4/5 and pin 16, which powers the interface.

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That should have been obd plug - look like the fuse box connector needs checking ... back on my creepy old knees 😞. Thinking about it, the ‘dead’ side of that fuse is where a new lead was fitted... if the rain holds off, I’ll have a closer look. Standby for an update.. I must say that I’m most grateful for the help you’re both giving.

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An inspection of the fuse socket (the bit on the 'dead side) revealed a dodgy crimp, and the insulation displacement wasn't successful when the crimp was made. This, now being fixed (with a squeeze of some wiring pliers), there is power to the OBDII connector. I have successfully edited the required field with VAG-Com lite, so that a 'G' appears in the appropriate place.

I'm now onto the final problem (I hope). It doesn't work! Before putting the steering wheel back on, I checked continuity of all the leads that head toward the ECU, and all tally with the instructions.  My gut feeling is that I've made a mistake in the wiring placement in the ECU connector. My eyes aren't as good as they were, so I'm leaving this until tomorrow morning, as the light here is already starting to fade. Once again, thanks for all the help, and I'll let you know how it pans out in the morning.

Cheers - John.

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An embarrassing update: I checked the wiring to the ECU, and thought I had two wires reversed (pins 2 and 9 on the bulkhead connector).  I tried starting the motor to test drive it - it wouldn't start. I then realised that the ECU connector was not fully home - I hadn't fully engaged the locking mechanism. This was easy to rectify, but now I've opened a right can of worms, and wish I'd not started... :-(

Needless to say, the cruise control doesn't work, and now I have three warning lights (EPC, Traction control and engine warning - all yellow.) The car still appears to drive OK, but I have obviously introduced problems that weren't there before I started. I'm really embarrassed now, and realise I should have just had the modification done by a professional, but seeing as I successfully retro fitted the same mod to my last Octavia (1.8T), I thought it would be straight forward. I'm hoping I haven't permanently damaged the ECU - Is it possible to clear the warnings with Vag-com lite? I'm just wondering if the problem is 'latched' in memory, and now I've completely removed all the mods I've done, whether a CPU reset, it may return to it's unmodified state... I feel very foolish, and should have known better, but alas, it's done now.

Any advice from Tech1e, Wino, or any other expert would be gratefully received.

Thanks from a very foolish feeling John.

 

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6 minutes ago, RadioJohn said:

Is it possible to clear the warnings with Vag-com lite

Should be yes.

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Where are you based John?

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Stourbridge - West Midlands.

 

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Do you have vcds lite?

Don't panic, it'll just be because the connector wasn't fully in, bet there's no actual damage.

2 minutes ago, RadioJohn said:

Stourbridge - West Midlands.

 

 

I'm in Worcester, not a million miles away should you get really stuck.

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I used Vag-com lite from Ross tech, as it was already on my laptop from my last car. I'm happy to download VCDS lite - does it need to purchased before it will work?

 

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Worcester is probably about 40 minutes from here down the M5 on a good day - what sort of cost would be to do a proper fit? 

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ps - I haven't refitted the wiper motor assembly  or plenum cover yet, so everything is easily accessible ...

 

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