Hi guys 

 

My 1.6tdi 105 se is encountering the dpf light coming on solid a little too often i think ,its done it twice in 3 months with certain times having no light but high idle speed when warm it does go out after a while but am considering using a can of dpf cleaner .. i have used the vag dpf app and its saying its 45% saturated ..

 

has anybody used this stuff ??

 

thanks 

 

Dave.

Volatile subject your broaching here...

There are many arguments for and against dpf juices and the various dpf regen methods. But... Deep breath and I'll stick my head above the parapet... 

Are you switching the engine off when it has that high idle speed and fans on? If so you'll be cutting short the vehicles own attempted regen's. Have you tried driving in the recommended manner to aid regen, running the car in a lower gear(s) elevating the engine revs to aid "burn-off". I think it used to be around 1800>3000rpm at speeds above 45mph. The correct data for your own vehicle should be in your owners manual (or someone else may know exactly). 

Failing that if your dpf light persists you may need to bite the bullet and get your skoda agent to plug in their computer and do a forced regen'. 

Edited 15 October, 20196 yr by Gmac983

thanks for the reply mate, i was also wondering what effect this stuff might have on the cat.

I use Cataclean diesel in my Fabia. Two bottles for £24 on the bay... Thats around 6 months worth, depending on how often you drive. No issues with using it as far as negative things go. I usually use it a week or so prior to the MOT and all is well. As mentioned above, though-do be sure to do the full regen as it will have a knock-on effect if you fail to. A forced regen is a bit harsh on the engine AND on the wallet... Two of those and you may well have been better off getting the DPF deleted although I didn't say that! 👼

Edited 16 October, 20196 yr by mrgf

ok thanks for your input fellas .

 

when the car goes into passive clean mode does the dpf heat up more than normal and if so how does it do it ?   sorry im no expert on these things but like to know how stuff works if i can ..

 

thanks again 

Spot on from the others. I use cataclean, millers or forte cleaners if needed. However are you using super market fuel?  Try if you can to use the high premium fuel as this has near enough the same properties as the bottled cleaners. I have noticed a slight difference on engine performance and quicker regen times. I know it's a little more expensive at the pump but try it see how it goes. I seem to be using less of the additives these days. As mentioned it's absolutely key that you do not switch off while on regen mode. I've stated in another post I let mine idle then when the idle drops shut down. Another reason I do this is also to protect the turbo. As stated you can have a forced regen done but if you know anyone with VCDS they could do it for you as I have carried out only one on my own vehicle in my ownership. Don't be frightened to use a little right foot either. 5th gear on the motorway 2500rpm is roughly about 70mph. I'am little over enthusiast at times but I will open mine up. If you do basically it will take between 4 to 7 minutes to put the lamp out. Also if the the fuel level is too low the ecu will not activate regen until refuelled anyway. Let us know how you get on. 

1 hour ago, DAVEEVO said:

 

when the car goes into passive clean mode does the dpf heat up more than normal and if so how does it do it ?   sorry im no expert on these things but like to know how stuff works if i can ..

 

The car does not "go into passive mode", it goes into active mode when passive regeneration isn't clearing enough soot.

There are 3 types of regeneration:

Passive Mode - while running at motorway speeds the engine generates enough heat to burn off the soot captured by the filter.  

Active mode - if there has been insufficient motorway running then the electronics detect the build up of soot in the filter and start the regeneration process you have noticed.  The engine management system injects a small amount of fuel on the exhaust stroke.  This fuel is carried by the exhaust into the DPF where catalysts cause it to burn, raising the temperature and burning off the soot.  This process occurs every 150 to 350 miles depending on how the car is driven.  It usually takes around 10 miles driving to complete, preferably at a steady 40+mph.  The DPF gets very hot during this process.  If you are doing insufficient long runs so that active mode cannot clear the soot then your warning light comes on.  At this point you need to take the car out and drive it hard for 10-15 miles until the process is complete.  The easiest way to see that it has completed is that the tickover drops from around 950-1000rpm back to 750-800rpm.  If you continue driving on a cold engine for short trips with the light on you pass the point of no return and the car will go into limp home mode - you then have to take it to a suitably equipped mechanic for a forced regeneration

Forced Mode - the car is wired up to a computer that runs a special program to clear out the soot.  It involves a lot of high rev static running and a lot of smoke!

 

As well as soot being captured by the DPF there are other fine particles in the exhaust that cannot be burnt in the regeneration process and remain as ash.  This ash builds up over time to the point where the DPF is so clogged that it has no capacity left for soot.  That is when it must be replaced or cleaned by a specialist process.  These particles are from 2 main sources:

microscopic traces of metal from engine wear in the oil burnt on the cylinder wall - if your engine burns a lot of oil then your DPF life will be dramatically shortened.  This is why oil changes must be done to the recommended schedule and oil used must be as recommended.  

Fuel contains minute traces of metal and silica none of which burns and ends up as ash in the DPF.  The amount is in the parts per million range but over time these tiny amounts build up to a significant amount.  It is why VAG recommend that you do not use fuel additives - if the additive contains traces of metals in the formulation then that will build up in the DPF.

 

Next time your DPF light comes on take the car out on quiet M or A roads and give it good thrashing for 20 or so miles.  Measure the saturation with your app before and after.  I don't know what the figures should be but somebody around here will.

 

Ways to improve/maintain your DPF health:

Do not drive like a granny to improve your MPG.  The 1.6TDi needs to be used across the rev range.  Drive it like you stole it for 20 miles at least every month.  Not only does that help your DPF it also stops the EGR valve and the turbo vanes getting gummed up.

Change the oil as per the schedule and use good quality oil.

If your engine is burning oil then find out why.  Burning engine oil is a real fast track to DPF death!

 

One final point in this long ramble!  Has your car had the emissions "fix"?  If it has then you can expect more frequent DPF active mode regenerations and much lower tolerance to short, cold engine trips!!

 

I have had my 1.6TDi from new, for over 6 years and almost 65k miles.  I do frequent motorway journeys including 1 or 2 100 mile plus trips each month.  Car has been main dealer serviced every 12 months or 9.5k miles.  It burns almost zero engine oil: never put a drop of oil in between services.  I get an active regeneration every 200-350 miles and have never seen the DPF warning light come on in anger except when the car was 5k miles old and a sensor failed.  

8 minutes ago, eccleshill said:

9 minutes ago, eccleshill said:

 

 

Next time your DPF light comes on take the car out on quiet M or A roads and give it good thrashing for 20 or so miles.  Measure the saturation with your app before and after.  I don't know what the figures should be but somebody around here will.

 

Ways to improve/maintain your DPF health:

Do not drive like a granny to improve your MPG.  The 1.6TDi needs to be used across the rev range.  Drive it like you stole it for 20 miles at least every month.  Not only does that help your DPF it also stops the EGR valve and the turbo vanes getting gummed up.

Change the oil as per the schedule and use good quality oil.

If your engine is burning oil then find out why.  Burning engine oil is a real fast track to DPF death!

 

One final point in this long ramble!  Has your car had the emissions "fix"?  If it has then you can expect more frequent DPF active mode regenerations and much lower tolerance to short, cold engine trips!!

 

I have had my 1.6TDi from new, for over 6 years and almost 65k miles.  I do frequent motorway journeys including 1 or 2 100 mile plus trips each month.  Car has been main dealer serviced every 12 months or 9.5k miles.  It burns almost zero engine oil: never put a drop of oil in between services.  I get an active regeneration every 200-350 miles and have never seen the DPF warning light come on in anger except when the car was 5k miles old and a sensor failed.  

 

At last I'am glad someone has brought this up. As stated do not be worried about giving these engines a good hammering! My 1.2 gets it. Also again oil changes are key as I have mentioned before this regen process degrades the oil and saturates it as it dumps extra fuel in the system! 

I'm also following this thread. Our car does motorways only now and still triggers a regen on the dot at 256 miles. It used to last about 400 miles 2 years ago.

Fantastic replies fellas thanks I have just filled up with shell v power or what ever its called and yes it has had the emissions recalled done. I will do as you say and monitor. Thanks again ..

You'll WILL notice the difference. Less diesel knock too probably. Also more responsive. Fixed or not don't worry keep that engine loose. Let her rip! Maybe treat it to a diesel filter as I have come across owners not changing them at all! Keep us informed. 

 

Best wishes A

Eccleshill.

 

I for one want to salute you for what you call your ramble.

 

I am new to the DPF table, having said I would never buy anything newer than EU4 emissions I could not resist a cheap Yeti as a project, I had read snippets that had further re-inforced my prejudice but had no real understanding of the subject.

 

Your ramble is to me the definitive text on the subject, I "get it" completely now, I know what to do and when to do it and more importantly why, what is happening when I do it and even more importantly what not to do and why.

 

As a person that has to know the "whys" your ramble was excellent and I will bookmark it but doubt I will ever need to refer to it now.

26 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Eccleshill.

 

I for one want to salute you for what you call your ramble.

 

I am new to the DPF table, having said I would never buy anything newer than EU4 emissions I could not resist a cheap Yeti as a project, I had read snippets that had further re-inforced my prejudice but had no real understanding of the subject.

 

Your ramble is to me the definitive text on the subject, I "get it" completely now, I know what to do and when to do it and more importantly why, what is happening when I do it and even more importantly what not to do and why.

 

As a person that has to know the "whys" your ramble was excellent and I will bookmark it but doubt I will ever need to refer to it now.

I second that. I did a full service using correct fluids etc and all filters inc fuel and cabin filters. Thanks again guys..

I also would like to thank you for that ramble (clear explanation) on the dreaded dpf