I've recently bought a set of Winter Steel wheels and Tyres for my facelift Yeti Outdoor. I have a 3 ton Sealey Trolley jack, and a hockey puck with recess, which I'd like to use to help fit these.

 

I've had a look at the (many) threads here on safely lifting the Yeti, however, the advice on whether or not to lift using the pinch weld next to the indicated triangle, or the flat floor either side, seems contradictory.

 

Should I be putting the weight on the pinch weld or trying to distribute the weight either side? of it I'd be grateful if someone who's used a trolley jack on their Yeti could offer some advice please.

 

Thanks.

I just use an old folded up towel that spreads the load and have never had a problem.

Thanks Urrell.

Find the arrows on the sill, put the slotted puck over the seam adjacent to the arrow, undo each wheel nut a quarter turn THEN jack up the car and change the wheels. Only fully tighten nuts when you have let the car down and wheel is on the ground.

Incidentally the operation is much easier if you buy a set of wheel alignment rods, cheap to buy and saves a lot of time and cussing!

29 minutes ago, Expatman said:

Incidentally the operation is much easier if you buy a set of wheel alignment rods, cheap to buy and saves a lot of time and cussing!

 

Pardon my confusion but why would one need to use wheel alignment rods just to change wheels over?

 

Edit: now I understand; I was thinking you meant wheel tracking alignment but a locator for the wheel bolts makes sense.  I normally use a piece of dowel ...

Edited 25 October, 20196 yr by StickyMicky

Don't forget to chock the wheels .

I agree with using an alignment rod, makes getting the replacement wheel on so much easier. I now put it into the topmost hole after removing that bolt first. This supports the wheel being removed as all the other bolts are removed. Well worth the £7 or so and avoids a lot of frustration trying to hold the heavy wheel in position whilst lining up the first bolt.

I just use a piece of wood between the jack and the cill. Works fine and protects the paint from any damage. You should be lifting the car on the welded seam, not on the flat cill surface, at the arrow.

 

I watched kwickfit jack up my skoda superb on their ramp some years ago. This is on a stretched vw passat underframe, and the jacks for front and rear did not quite adjust to reach the jacking points. They jacked up the front on the cill no more than 100mm behind the arrow and I watched the cill collapse under the loading as the jack went up. Very very important to be exactly on the arrow as that is the only part of the cill reinforced to take the weight, probably with extra strengthening vertical plate inside.

Edited 25 October, 20196 yr by kenfowler3966

2 hours ago, dashwood said:

I've recently bought a set of Winter Steel wheels and Tyres for my facelift Yeti Outdoor. I have a 3 ton Sealey Trolley jack, and a hockey puck with recess, which I'd like to use to help fit these.

 

I've had a look at the (many) threads here on safely lifting the Yeti, however, the advice on whether or not to lift using the pinch weld next to the indicated triangle, or the flat floor either side, seems contradictory.

 

Should I be putting the weight on the pinch weld or trying to distribute the weight either side? of it I'd be grateful if someone who's used a trolley jack on their Yeti could offer some advice please.

 

Thanks.

 

I use a stepped "hockey puck", the larger side sits on the inner flat jacking point and the slot fits over the seam, with the smaller side preventing the pad slipping, therefore your lifting on the jacking point rather than the sill seam ... same shape as the Skoda stepped car Jack.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jack-Pad-Rubber-Adapter-for-Skoda-Octavia-Superb-VW-Golf-Passat-Seat-Leon-Audi/283064025095?hash=item41e7ee4007:g:AcgAAOSwq7lbXiYx

You lift on the seam edge which is the strongest point, not the cill surface?

If you buy a car with the spare wheel, the spplied jack fits onto the seam and lifts that.

The shaped pucks just line the jack up and stop it slipping whilst carrying the load in the slot on the end of the seam.

Thanks all, items ordered!

6 minutes ago, kenfowler3966 said:

You lift on the seam edge which is the strongest point, not the cill surface?

If you buy a car with the spare wheel, the spplied jack fits onto the seam and lifts that.

The shaped pucks just line the jack up and stop it slipping whilst carrying the load in the slot on the end of the seam.

 

Who mentioned jacking on the sill surface? the supplied Skoda jack doesnt fit on the seam it locates over the seam and the weight is placed on the jacking point on the car floor behind the sill.

The shaped pad I linked to mimics the Skoda jack mounting exactly, been there, done it, owned it and checked it.

Like the idea of a folded towel.

 

Has anyone ever seen a listing for a jack puck that is the correct size for a real trolley jack and not a toy sized one?

 

Even better still one with a curved lower surface to match the lifting plate?

 

Never had a real problem aligning wheels, I sit on my rump and support/lift the wheel into position with the top of both outstretched feet, after years of fitting RWD gearboxes using my feet and knees as a cradle a wheel is childs play.

 

If ever you have a massive heavy truck wheel to remove/refit a shovel is the best tool for lifting it into place.

Edited 25 October, 20196 yr by J.R.

59 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Like the idea of a folded towel.

 

Has anyone ever seen a listing for a jack puck that is the correct size for a real trolley jack and not a toy sized one?

 

Even better still one with a curved lower surface to match the lifting plate?

 

Never had a real problem aligning wheels, I sit on my rump and support/lift the wheel into position with the top of both outstretched feet, after years of fitting RWD gearboxes using my feet and knees as a cradle a wheel is childs play.

 

If ever you have a massive heavy truck wheel to remove/refit a shovel is the best tool for lifting it into place.

Okay if you don't mind sitting in a puddle or a grubby driveway. Otherwise using an alignment rod just makes the job quicker and easier. I'm all for a simple solution so now getting on a bit I have sold my winter wheels/tyres and bought a set of All Season tyres - those that came first in AutoExpress recent test.

Interested to see what they are like after a while. First impressions are excellent, very quiet and comfortable with good feel and roadholding.

I use the ice hockey puck cut down to lift as per the standard jack. 

 

Re the aligning studs - they work brilliantly. I also have a socket on a short extension and use an electric drill/driver to spin the bolts out (and back in after) after loosening the bolts with a breaker bar. Obviously, I torque the bolts up afterwards by hand. Not quite f1 pitstop quick but getting there...!

 

Oh, and don't forget to copper grease (sparingly) the bolts and the mating faces of the wheels and hubs.