After another failed mot it's been time to sort the back brakes out. My fabia failed on rear brake imbalance, low fluid level, leaking fluid etc etc. The mechanic said it may need brake cables as well. I had previously tightened it at the handbrake and I think one cable was slack still... Anyway I've put the adjuster at the handbrake back to what it was at before as he told me this was not the proper way to adjust it. 

 

I bought two new wheel bearings (one was rough) and a new brake shoe kit (trw pre assembled including cylinders). 

 

The old shoes came off with some persuasion and the bearings were okay. Ive put the new shoe / cylinder on one side but haven't started the other. I've just thinking about firstly if one of the cables is broken and how I would know before I bolt it back together?And secondly how do I adjust the handbrake at the drum? 

 

Any other advice to complete this job? Don't have a pressure bleeder either so will it be okay to gravity bleed them? 

I also installed the TRW pre-assembled kit. The shoes adjust themselves on the auto adjuster by pressing the pedal, which also sets the handbrake. Just make sure the adjuster wedge is backed off before putting the drum on and that the handbrake cables are not sticking or too tight. You can adjust the cables if necessary after the self-adjustment.

 

Did you replace the plastic 'glide pads' on the backplate? They tend to eventually fall to pieces. Part number 6N0609589.

 

 

Edited 12 November, 20196 yr by TMB

Ah right I didnt realise the auto adjusted that's good to know. How would I go about adjusting them from the cable if I needed to? 

 

No I didn't are they essential/what do they do? Might have to go back to it the back plate looks a bit worse for wear as well. 

 

Thanks again 

Handbrake adjustment...

 

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/chassis/brake_brake_mechanics/repairing_rear_brake/setting_the_hand-brake_drum_brake/

 

The glide pads just allow the shoes to move freely against the backplate.

Were either of the handbrake levers seized at their pivot points on the old shoes? 

 

With bleeding the wheel cylinders, note that the normal 'angle of dangle' of the rear beam hanging down when jacked up puts the wheel cylinders at an angle away from horizontal which will make bleeding difficult, as of course the bleed nipple is in the centre, so the cylinder needs to be as level as poss before bleeding to stop any air pockets lingering at high points.

 

 

Edited 12 November, 20196 yr by Wino

Not sure if I'm honest I just pried them off and stuck them in the bin! One side was covered in brake fluid and had no material left of the shoe. 

 

And I think one side of the handbrake did almost nothing on the brake roller test maybe 5% iirc

 

Didn't think about that I'll maybe try get someone to help and do the two person method. 

 

Thanks 

Suggest checking that the cable are free by watching if the springs over the cable compress at the drum when pulling the handbrake on, and un-compress when handbrake released.  I have just had to replace the cables (replacing just one can result in issues due to old cable being stretch over time through useage to a longer length than new cable) on mine due to the inner cable being rusted into the outer cable on one side.

I'm always intrigued by the idea of handbrake cables stretching over time. When I was at Tech (100s of years ago) I learnt steel was elastic up to a load point (i.e. it always went back to original length after load was released).  So I've never understood why a cable should stretch over time. Could it be that cable problems are always caused by seizing somewhere in the mechanism or the wrong cable fitted?

Had an absolute nightmare doing this past couple nights. 

 

I had it all together then a handbrake cable decided to pop out if place. I had to take the new shoes off to get it back on and broke a spring doing so (picture underneath is of the spring nearest the camera). 

 

Anyway started bleeding the brakes, with the drums off... Now I can't get the bloody ******s on and I've tried pushing the cylinder back in and even when there is room I just can't get the brake shoe to retract if you will. Then a cylinder popped when I was bleeding it and while it looks fine I'm not sure if it's ruined any seals etc or just made a big puddle on the floor... 

 

I'm in two minds about the cables, they both move freely but that one popping off (twice) isn't right. I don't think the side that pops off actually compresses, it more just let's the cable inside move. 

 

Thanks again 

Edited 14 November, 20196 yr by 7600ee
Add photo

3 hours ago, 7600ee said:

 

Anyway started bleeding the brakes, with the drums off... Now I can't get the bloody ******s on and I've tried pushing the cylinder back in and even when there is room I just can't get the brake shoe to retr

I'm in two minds about the cables, they both move freely but that one popping off (twice) isn't right. I don't think the side that pops off actually compresses, it more just let's the cable inside move. 

 

 

 Can you confirm that the self adjusting wedge are backed off as these will stop the shoes retracting fully - if the shoes are allowed to move apart without a drum to restrain them the wedges will be pulled down by their tension springs.

 Regarding the handbrake cables, if water gets under the plastic coating on the outer cover, this can allow rust to distort the coiled metal of the outer cable which then balloons when pressure is applied by the handbrake mechanism.

Yeah, make sure the adjuster wedge is fully backed off. You do it by inserting a screwdriver through one of the wheelbolt holes. Use a torch to find the wedge through the hole. Lever the wedge upwards to release.

 

 

Edited 14 November, 20196 yr by TMB

The easiest way to change the shoes is to remove the hub/bearing assembly.

Edited 14 November, 20196 yr by TMB

Tip I found, which may/may not prove helpful, was that when assembling the top link+ spring and the adjuster . Use a bit of adhesive tape/ string etc to hold the spring and top link together & stop spring jumping out. Remove just before fitting drum. I also found that as cylinders tended to move out , a pair of screwdrivers levered on shoes ( to push them in ) ,whilst SLACKENING off the bleed niple ,let the shoes move back in.

And, TMB- Pretty canny that explanation

4 hours ago, VWD said:

And, TMB- Pretty canny that explanation

 

Haha

I've copied that photo ,and filed it in Haynes for next time I have to delve into the rear drums.

Thanks for all the replies / suggestions. 

 

I'm not at the car over the weekend but I'm planning on continuing Monday onwards again and try and get it sorted. Will try and get to tps for that spring I snapped and possibly a couple of handbrake cables

 

I had to take the wheel bearings off anyway as one was rough, I couldn't imagine doing the job with them on! 

 

 

Well just thought I'd update everyone on the progress. I got the handbrake cables in with not much hassle, new brake shoe springs (for the ones that went missing), guide pieces/sliders and new locating bolts. All done I put it back in for the MOT (a different garage out of convenience sake) and it failed on a broken spring, headlamp aim, track rod end and front wheel bearing. I wish I'd went back to the original garage but too late now. Having a friend fix it for a small fee £180 inc parts. Anyone think this could have happened within 250 miles of driving or did the original garage miss it / new one milking it? 

 

Thanks all for the help for getting the brakes set up, that's the only thing which went smoothly! 

Ensure that your friend is familiar with the Gen2 bearing type and tooling reqd to fit them without damaging them. Headlight aim could be affected by the spring breakage? Front or back?

Springs can fail at any time. Bearing and TRE play are a bit subjective in terms of what's a fail, so no particular reason to be suspicious.

Well done getting the drums sorted.

Edited 3 December, 20196 yr by Wino