A practical question: we'll be taking delivery soon of an interior door (204x73 cm) complete with the doorwell frame. My wife didn't ask for the thing to be shipped because the vendor claimed this would fit in a stationwagon.

 

I have some doubts; I know I get only about 1m80 of loading "floor" when I fold down the rear seat and push the front seats all the way to the front. *Maybe* there's a way to get a big slab like that in diagonally and more or less vertically (in "landscape" orientation of course) but even if that's not going to damage my upholstery I think it would give me an enormous dead angle (it's a solid door).

 

Has anyone tried this kind of fun chore?

 

Thanks,

René

I don’t know but would be interested to see the door when it’s fitted in its new location.

#EscapeToTheChateauDIY 

Yes René, I recently took 5 bloc portes avec cadres from France to the UK in my Octavia Combi and have transported loads of them in the past.

 

They will go in flat with the rear seats folded flat and the squabs removed and put to one side of the boot, the extended montants of the frames (cadres) may cause a problem.

 

I had actually removed the frames to machine them down to fit in a UK door lining so I know that you can get 5 doors in the rear easily with the frames laying on the top, in my case broken down into individual sections.

 

I suggest you remove the door from the frame, lay it in the boot and then place the frame on top with the extended vertical jambs (montants) facing forwards either side of the passenger seat.

 

good luck!

 

@john999boy. A French postformed 3 panel door finished in white primer fitted and pre-hung into a machined frame including hinges, lock etc ready to put in place in 2 minutes with a few screws, no hanging, morticing, planing, fitting loose stops etc only costs less than £25 in France.

 

After prising off the old door lining stops I fitted 5 new doors in my UK house before the morning tea break!

24 minutes ago, J.R. said:

before the morning tea break!

 

So for you about 1500 or so?

 

https://www.lapeyre.fr/bloc-porte-classique-sapin-massif-FPC2403091

 

What do you call the squabs, the rear head rests?

 

I didn't mention that I need to put my seat almost all the way to the back, so I lose quite a bit of loading area because of that. Putting the 2 legs of the frame on either side of the passenger seat is a good idea, but I'm pretty certain the door itself won't go in flat. I'd probably have to leave it sticking out of the trunk.

@StickyMicky 14.00!

 

@RJVB

 

Rear seat squab is the part you sit on, it flips forward but needs to be unclipped to get the full loading length and the passenger seat either needs moving forward or reclining (with the headrest removed), many people do not know that the squabs can be easily removed without tools, its the only way to get a flat loading floor and for sleeping etc, by friend that I bought my MK1 from had it for 3 years and never knew.

 

I recall now that the doors I took to England I cut down the length as well as machining the frames for them to fit in a UK door lining set (huisserie) the ceilings there are lower at 2.44m.

 

At the reduced length I could carry 5 of them laid flat in the rear, drivers seat in normal position, passenger seat forward, huisserie sections laid on top. The passenger seat belt is long enough to go round all of them to stop them sliding towards the driver.

 

As yours will be full length you may have to recline the passenger seat as described above and lay the door over that, leave the frame projections facing forwards, there is enough width, you can change gear OK but may tap your elbow.

 

If you will be carrying a passenger then have a good measure up and make sure they have short legs you may need to remove the door from the frame to lay the frame on top to gain a bit.

 

I have transported over 30 French doors & frames in my 2 Octavia Estates, you will not have a problem and they can be loaded flat or elevated slightly at the front if you recline the passengers seat, - remove the headrest!

 

PS. Should have used huisserie instead of cadre, have only just returned to speaking French after a 5 week immersion in the English language.

Edited 12 December, 20196 yr by J.R.

I've got an octavia estate and as J.R. said transporting doors has been fine. I did several runs to my local pine dipping place when restoring some victorian period doors (about the same dimensions you have mentioned) and they went in no probs with all seats down and the front passenger seat either reclined fully with the doors on top, or pushed forward fully and angled towards the dash.

The French door height is 6cm taller and they come in a frame which can add another 4cm, the stiles of the frame as supplied project another 7cm beyond the bottom of the door so that they can be pit in place before the floor screed is poured.

 

Removing the door from the frame will allow them to go in seperately but it will be a little tighter than with a UK door

Thanks for all the replies. I'm still not completely reassured; the problem being that we'd be in trouble if for whatever reason the thing does NOT fit in a way that I feel safe driving with...

 

The good news is about the squabs; if confirmed in my own car I could always decide to leave a bit sticking out of the trunk. It looks like that would be less than the 60 or so cm which would oblige me to put on a red flag ... and my wife would be following me anyway because there will be an additional item to transport.

I transported a full height uPVC door with frame and step in mine, I had to have it sticking out of the boot about 10cm , I tied the boot lid down. That was with the front seats as far forward as I could still drive and the rear bases removed.

 

I've had internal pine doors in with the boot closed no problem however.

 

Since then I've invested in a set of roof bars, which make it much easier. Full sized 2.4 x 1.2m sheet materials are then no problem.

Yeah, I thought about getting a set of those bars. How's driving with such big slabs on the roof, don't you get lift symptoms? My father in law had that once taking Ikea shoppings back home ... but then he was in his 9-3 convertible with the things leaning out and upwards from the rear seats (inverse spoiler)

It depends on how thick and floppy the material is.

 

A door is solid and won't go anywhere if strapped down properly.

 

I transported some 22mm flooring

about 20 miles on 60mph roads and that was fine. Anything like 9mm ply I wouldn't want to go anywhere out of town over 30mph.

I wasn't just thinking about the cargo. Rigid enough cargo that's strapped well enough could affect car handling in interesting ways. In fact, even non-rigid cargo like matrasses can