Just a few months ago one of the coil packs went out, this morning it seems like another went.

I havent checked the engine code yet as i had to get to work, buit the symtpoms are the same (based on the shaking it seems to fire 3 cylinders). If it is a different cylinder this time should I just assume that they reaching its end of life and I should just replace them all? The car has about 170K km on it.

And i dont think the spark plugs have been changed since i got it 130K km ago (7 years). Im thinking to just go ahead and replace all the coil packs and plugs. Sensible? Anything esle while im at it?

I would certainly get on with removing the spark plugs and seeing just what they look like and what the gaps now are and get in new ones.

Then see how it runs before getting coils.

Worn out spark plugs cause coil failure, replace the whole lot.

12 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

Worn out spark plugs cause coil failure, replace the whole lot.

Thanks

So all plugs and 3 coil packs, or all coil packs as well to make sure they are the same?
These plugs for my BBY engine? https://www.autodoc.nl/ngk/1041280

Unsure about the coil packs though (These ones? https://www.autodoc.nl/hella/8014519) . And need to look for a thin walled socket and torque wrench i guess

 

Edited 4 February, 20206 yr by ToreV

Don't replace working coilpacks, just keep one spare so you can swap out a failure quickly and easily.

3 minutes ago, Wino said:

Don't replace working coilpacks, just keep one spare so you can swap out a failure quickly and easily.

Ok thanks. Good tip. Ill replace the plugs and the faulty coilpack and keep a spare in the car

If you want to 'fit and forget' than buy Iridium plugs, they seem to last almost indefinitely compared to standard plugs.

Ok so the actual code is Cylinder 2 misfire detected. Still go for plugs and coilpack? 

If plug no.2 looks bad when removed, maybe just try replacing only the plugs and see if the coilpack is actually not at fault? Possibly swap that coilpack with one from a different cylinder.  Then see which, if any codes return.

 

Which cylinder was the previous failure?

 

The spark plugs should have been the first thing looked at last time and again this time.  Basics.

It was cylinder 3 last time, then it was a actual coil code. Then it was "fine" at idle, but horrible with acceleration. Now it's shakes and stutters on idle. 

 

Last time I juts drove it straight to garage. This time intend to do it myself. 

A fault on the HT side of the coil will only throw a misfire code, a fault on the LT side will throw a coil code as well as a misfire.

 

You should replace all the plugs before you do anything else.

Thanks. Plugs and tool ordered

It was the coilpack. Still same after I replaced the plugs, but when I moved the coilpack, the misfire moved as well. 

 

Interestingly the coil that was broken looked neew and shiny but is a VW park with year code 04 l, so came with the car. The coilpack that was replaced on cylinder 3 a few months ago didn't look nearly as good. But running fine now, and have a spare coilpack in the car now. 

 

This is how the plugs looked. 

 

And now the coil in cylinder 3 went again. 

I have new plugs, and 1 coil changed twice now. (ordered another spare) 

Anything else i should be looking at as i've now had 3 coil failures. And one was a new coil with new plug. 

Errr, A gearboks that will eventually fail (Vibrations and noise at 4K rpm), Coils keep failing, and now I have a bad coolant leak by the pump. Maybe time to get a new car 😞

Check that your radiator fan(s) is/are working.  Engine getting hotter than it should might increase probability of coil failures.

 

Three out of three cars of this platform that I currently look after had fan system failures; the most recent one on low and full speed, the former due to the internal low-speed resistor connection inside the  (single) fan, the latter due to a broken wire at the thermoswitch connector.  This 2005 Polo has a Bosch coil, two Bougicord ones and one other, so clearly has some failure history (even though only 80k miles done).

Coolant leak could spring up due to higher temperatures/pressures too.

Thanks, will check 

It looks like coolant it leaking both at the container and down at the pump. (gets wet under the pump) A couple hours drive, almost 1 liter. I think i better not drive it much now.

This hose is damaged by the radiator, I have no clue what it is? Aircon? 

Yes, A/C hose, plus covering.