If the thing cuts out totally the it is an ecu issue. Even misreading sensors won't cause this kind of behavior 

13 hours ago, RicardoM said:

What oil separator?

The part marked on the picture. 

The resistance between pin 5 and 7 should be 700-900 when the throttle is fully opened and 1500-1600 ohms when the throttle is closed according to Autodata. But my rhrottle body resistance is 1400 ohms when closed. Vagcom shows 17 degrees of throttle angle when in idle but it should be around 1-7 degrees. So is that my problem?

On 24/06/2020 at 12:30, matej2212 said:

The resistance between pin 5 and 7 should be 700-900 when the throttle is fully opened and 1500-1600 ohms when the throttle is closed according to Autodata. But my rhrottle body resistance is 1400 ohms when closed. Vagcom shows 17 degrees of throttle angle when in idle but it should be around 1-7 degrees. So is that my problem?

bad pot inside the throttle body (clean it) i would be tempted to add a series resistor just for testing purpses only

I doubt cleaning the potentiometer would help, cleaning it will probably decrease the resistance even more.

58 minutes ago, matej2212 said:

I doubt cleaning the potentiometer would help

In your case it might not. Yet the cursor of any potentiometer rubs the carbon base leaving in time a groove and carbon powder inside. The most problematic areas are those where the cursor rubs most often: at idle and at cruise speed.

1 hour ago, matej2212 said:

cleaning it will probably decrease the resistance even more

That is hilarious, and I'm being gentle.

1 hour ago, matej2212 said:

I doubt cleaning the potentiometer would help, cleaning it will probably decrease the resistance even more.

Give a good clean maybe a light bend or a light sand you have nothing to loose use contact cleaner free of oil

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Give a good clean maybe a light bend or a light sand you have nothing to loose use contact cleaner free of oil

I will try it and report back, thanks.

 

1 hour ago, RicardoM said:

That is hilarious, and I'm being gentle.

Sorry I am not as perfect and smart as you are.

On 27/06/2020 at 20:08, matej2212 said:

Sorry I am not as perfect and smart as you are.

Being sarcastic will not make you smarter. On the contrary. You don't have to be a genius like me 😎 to know basic things about electronics. Good school books will suffice.

Well I study electrical engineering and it sounds logical to me that if you clean a potentiometer it makes a better contact and resistance should decrease. So if my resistance at closed throttle is 1400 and it should be 1500 ohms I thought that clenaning it would make it worse or wont help. I don't know, correct me if I am wrong🤷‍♂️

1 hour ago, matej2212 said:

Well I study electrical engineering and it sounds logical to me that if you clean a potentiometer it makes a better contact and resistance should decrease. So if my resistance at closed throttle is 1400 and it should be 1500 ohms I thought that clenaning it would make it worse or wont help. I don't know, correct me if I am wrong🤷‍♂️

the issue is that you dont know what the resistance will do because you have carbon dirt it may go up or down or stay where it is

I tried cleaning it but with no effect. The resistance is still 1400 ohms when closed and throttle angle is still 20 degrees in idle when it should be 1-7. So I guess its a new throttle body then.

5 hours ago, matej2212 said:

I tried cleaning it but with no effect. The resistance is still 1400 ohms when closed and throttle angle is still 20 degrees in idle when it should be 1-7. So I guess its a new throttle body then.

Add that series resistor and check if there is smooth operation and if the car works better 

10 hours ago, matej2212 said:

So if my resistance at closed throttle is 1400 and it should be 1500 ohms I thought that clenaning it would make it worse or wont help. I don't know, correct me if I am wrong

We're talking two different things: the resistance of the potentiometer itself and the contact resistance between the wiper and the carbon track of the potentiometer. Cleaning the potentiometer will only help making good contact (1 ohm less at best) on the entire resistance of the potentiometer. However the cleaning will not solve the wear of the carbon track.

 

On the other hand, I don't know where from is Autodata having the 'correct' values for the resistance of the TB positioner. Not to mention that in fact there are two potentiometer in there...

 

Yeah, i know there are two potentiometers. The resistance of the first one is from 1400 (closed) -730(open throttle), the other one goes from 730 to 1400 (the other way around). I don't know where autodata got this, but in "components testing" section for felicia 1.6 it says that it should be 1500-1600 ohms when throttle is closed. I guess that is correct because I don't know why would vagcom show 20 degrees when idling, when it should be from 1 to 7 (according to vagcom). That would probably also explain throttle body whine (computer thinks that the flap is at 20 degrees and tries to close the flap more, even if its in corect position and the motor whines). 

I took it to a mechanic which said that MAP sensor is probably "too slow" so the idle goes up and down and the car stalls when pressing the clutch at low revs. I ordered a new sensor but I want to know how can oil be getting on the MAP since i've been running the car with breather hose disconnected and intake hole plugged. I know you said it isn't a problem from looking at my picture, but I just dont want the oil to faul my new MAP.

9 hours ago, matej2212 said:

I took it to a mechanic which said that MAP sensor is probably "too slow" so the idle goes up and down and the car stalls when pressing the clutch at low revs.

I doubt the sensor is 'too slow' but for sure it gets contaminated or it is out of specifications.

9 hours ago, matej2212 said:

...but I want to know how can oil be getting on the MAP

The MAP is mounted on the intake manifold. Any device mounted on the intake manifold using a gasket or the gasket of the intake manifold itself should be checked for leaks or better replaced.

Thanks, I appreciate your effort because I know I am probably getting on your nerves already, but I really cant find the problem. I will try a smoke test and see if anything stands out. I also checked distributor cap and rotor and they were dirty, I cleaned them, and after one ride they were dirty again (grey marks which were difficult to remove). Can this also cause the stalling when pressing the clutch and rpms going up and down? 

1 hour ago, matej2212 said:

Can this also cause the stalling when pressing the clutch and rpms going up and down? 

No. It is all about faulty measuring of the intake manifold pressure either because of a bad sensor or because of a vacuum leak.

See photos below to understand what is all about.

 

 

Edited 13 July, 20205 yr by RicardoM

Ok, I smoked checked the intake (with a cigarette) and there were no obvious leaks that I could spot. Is it normal then that the sensor is a little bit shiny? When i clean it, it doesnt look shiny, but after one ride it does. I guess that could be just remaining oil droplets which accumulated on the inner side of the intake? I will try to replace the sensor either way and report back.

Idling problem fixed! Changed the MAP sensor and the problem didnt come back! But another problem appeared🤦‍♂️the car accelerates fine if I accelerate slowly, but if I floor it at any rpm it starts stuttering or kangarooing. Seems like a problem with fuel or spark. Spark plugs seem fine, i checked resistance of spark plug  wires and it is within spec and the coil was replaced couple of thousand kilometres ago (i hope it didnt go bad so soon). What should I check first or what are the most common causes?

Try to reset the ECU first.

Disconnect the battery for 1/2 hour, both negative and positive. Touch the disconnected battery cables a few seconds to discharge any capacitor remnant charge. Connect battery cables. Test drive.

Tried it but it didn't help. Even reset the throttle body but with no success.

Any error codes stored after the last test drive?

No new codes, only the 01249 "fuel injector for cylinder 1 open or short to ground" that was present before.