I would hard reset the ECU first. Unplug the plus and the minus cables from the battery for 30 minutes. Let the plus and the minus cables lay aside connected between them. That is to be sure that every ECU internal condenser gets discharged.

 

Reconnect the battery terminals. See what happens when you switch the ignition key to ON.

My mistake the car is a 1.6.

So no msm available 

Edited 5 May, 20206 yr by Thefeliciahacker

1 hour ago, matej2212 said:

I found a used throttle body in a scrapyard for 5 euro and put it on and it whines the same. I know it can be bad in the same way as mine, but probably it isnt. Is it possible that the computer is sending some false data to the throttle body and the motor tries to spin in some strange way that makes it whine? Can some sensor that sends data to throttle body be bad?

Can you get me a 5 euro felly throttle body. 

Edited 5 May, 20206 yr by Thefeliciahacker

2 hours ago, RicardoM said:

I would hard reset the ECU first. Unplug the plus and the minus cables from the battery for 30 minutes. Let the plus and the minus cables lay aside connected between them. That is to be sure that every ECU internal condenser gets discharged.

 

Reconnect the battery terminals. See what happens when you switch the ignition key to ON.

I have disconnected the battery when i was changing the throttle body for over half an hour, so that probably wont help, but will try it anyway.

 

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Can you get me a 5 euro felly throttle body. 

Yeah they are pretty cheap here used but probably because a lot of them go bad

If you can open the throttle bodies, maybe you can build a good one from them. I am expecting to find what is wrong by visual inspection. Too much play on gears, worn gears, broken teeth, bad potentiometers, dirt, etc.

See videos below as inspiration to know what to look for.

 

 

 

Edited 5 May, 20206 yr by RicardoM

Okay I may have found the problem. The resistance between pin 5 and 7 should be 700-900 when the throttle is fully opened and 1500-1600 ohms when the throttle is closed according to autodata. The resistance is 1400 ohms when closed and also, when i start opening the throttle body, the resistance starts to go up and then down do 730 (look at the video). So probably the resistance is too small and the motor wants to close it more and thats when it whines? 

 

I attached the picture of the throttle body in one of my previous posts and there arent any signs of wear on gears or broken teeth.

 

 

Let's have a look at the circuit diagram for the TB - throttle body (circled area) for each step below.

Here is what measurements you have to do, in this order:

• Test power supply to TB

1. TB connector unplugged, key on
2. connect a multimeter on voltage scale between pins 5-6, then 6-7, then 4-6
3. voltage should be between 4.5 V - 5 V.

If one or more voltages are not present, you need to check the wiring as follows:

• Test for continuity and/or short between TB connector and ECU connector

1. key off
2. unplug ECU connector
3. connect a multimeter on continuity (beep) scale between TB plug and ECU plug respectively: pins 1-59, 2-66, 3-69, 4-67, 5-75, 6-62, 7-74.
4. there should be continuity on all connections
5. now check for shorts between pins 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 of the TB plug. (pin 1 to each other pin, pin 2 to each other pin, and so on...)
6. there should be NO continuity

If the wiring is good then the ECU is bad.

 

Now, if all 5V voltages are present, check for idle switch as follows:

1. key off
2. connect TB connector to TB
3. plug in the VAG-COM interface to OBD socket
4. key on
5. start VAG-COM, select Engine group
6. in the fourth field there is an 8-digit number. there should be like this: 00010000
7. rotate slightly the throttle valve. the reading should change to 00000000.
8. close VAG-COM
9. key off

If the values are not correct, you need to look inside TB to see if the microswitch for idle position is OK. if not, try to repair it.

 

If everything is correct, we check the motor of the TB.

1. unplug the TB connector
2. connect a multimeter on resistance scale between pins 1-2 of the TB socket.
3. the value should be less than 200 Ω but not zero.

Last, we check the TB potentiometers as follows:

1. connect a multimeter on resistance scale between pins 5-6 of the TB socket.
2. read the value. write it down.
3. slowly rotate the TB valve and watch for a linear change in resistance (no jumps)
4. read the value for full open valve. write it down.
5. repeat steps 1-4 for the other potentiometer (pins 6-7)
6. the values should be mirrored compared to the first potentiometer

If the values are OK, the motor is OK, the wiring is OK, etc. then the ECU is bad.

Edited 6 May, 20206 yr by RicardoM

So I finally had the time to check all the things RicardoM described. All of the things are like you say they should be. I am starting to think the problem is elsewhere. Can the MAP sensor be the problem? I noticed oil in intake tube when cleaning the throttle body, maybe that causes the MAP sensor to be dirty? I noticed also that the car works fine for couple kilometres after cleaning the sensor. Can I just disconnect the breather hose, clean the MAP sensor and see if the problem comes back?

2 hours ago, matej2212 said:

Can the MAP sensor be the problem? I noticed oil in intake tube when cleaning the throttle body, maybe that causes the MAP sensor to be dirty?

Of course it can. The oil comes from  the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose. Disconnect the PCV hose and route it somewhere under the car to see if the problem disappears and the engine runs fine more than 2 km.

Oh ok, thanks. What should I do with the hole in the intake where the hose connects to? Should I plug it with something or can I leave it open?

Plug it. Clean again the MAP sensor. Test.

Okay, I did that as you said but the problem is still there, maybe it helped a little (or it didnt and its just in my head). Is there a way to test the map sensor? Or should I replace it and hope that it helps?

2 hours ago, matej2212 said:

Is there a way to test the map sensor?

Yes it is.

See photo for the MAP sensor part.

For the air temperature part, use VAG-com to monitor the value (Engine/Read values/Group 02, field 4). It should be close to outside temperature.

Edited 8 June, 20205 yr by RicardoM

Before testing the MAP sensor i want to know where the oil on the MAP is coming from. I disconnected the breather hose, plugged the hole on the intake, cleaned the intake tube with isopropyl alcohol, cleaned the throttle body so it is not oily, cleaned the MAP, but the MAP sensor still looks shiny after driving for couple kilometres. The air filter is a normal paper one and it isn't oily or wet. Where the heck can the oil come from and "oil" the MAP?

Can you take a clear focused, good lighting, zoomed photo of the "oily" MAP sensor?

Here it is. It looks wet so i assumed it is oily. I don't know if it could come in contact with any other liquid.

I don't see anything to worry about. It is more important that the sensor sends the correct values of vacuum and air temperature.

I would record a trip (using VAG-COM - Data Logging of relevant values) from start to engine stall. Then upload it to have a look at it.

Okay, I will try that, hopefully I can figure out how to do it 

 

Which values should I log? 

Engine/Measuring Blocks

Groups 001, 002, 004

Log

 

Okay, I tried but I couldnt get the car to stall when logging, however i got it to idle roughly. I put a marker (clicked marker button in vagcom) when it did that. I guess it is in this part (see picture). I attached a log file. Should I try again and get the car to stall?

LOG-01-001-002-004.CSV

There is no manifold pressure recorded. Might be in Group 3?

The channel for IAT has instead data for the coolant temperature.

 

https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/001-009.html

Edited 10 June, 20205 yr by RicardoM

I guess you cant read manifold pressure on a felicia. Group 1 has engine speed, coolant temp, lambda probe, conditions; Group 2 has engine speed, injection time, ecu voltage, air intake temp, Group 3 has engine speed, engine load, throttle angle, throttle regl, Group 4 has engine speed, engine load, not used, or-id-pt-ft and Group 5 has engine speed and valve duty. From there on, the groups are empty (they have some random values).

 

Yeah, I know the coolant temp and air intake temp are switched, that happens if I have more than one group open in vagcom. If I open just one group, it shows correct temp so I guess its a vagcom problem.

3 hours ago, matej2212 said:

I guess you cant read manifold pressure on a felicia

Can anyone check if the same happens on Felicia 1.3 MPI ?

I read that some people had good luck with cleaning the oil separator because it gets full of oil, and thougt that I would try it since its free

Is it possible that would help and is it easy to get to it?

What oil separator?