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Nightmare changing front shocks

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I don't claim to be a great mechanic but I'm reasonably handy at fixing and maintaining my vehicles, having done everything required on all my cars and trucks for 15+ years.  I've also done shocks, springs etc several times previously on other cars.

Well today's job of changing a front shock was awful. My Octavia has done £170k and is still in original parts. The strut pinch bolt was easy, as were the 3 bolts for the ball joint. I knew the drop link would be seized so I just cut those bolts. However getting the windscreen wipers off was tricky and broke my puller but managed with a spanner and hammer. The top 3 bolts were completely stuck and the nuts eventually just spun around. I ended up cutting 2 of the bolts off with an angle grinder and Dremel. Dismantling the strut was no better so as the but was seized. I think my low point was when I just couldn't be bothered and cut the shock rod with my mitre saw. Fortunately I had new top strut mounts (although not new bearings, but they were fine). Wish I'd bought new springs but I hadn't. 

 

In the end i only finished one side so I'll do the other next weekend. Is it normal for them to be such a drama to change?

  • Author

Sorry about the typos 😞

After 170k you'd be stuck in your ways too!

I would say it's quite normal.

 

I had a snapped front spring after 180k. Got a local garage to quote for it. 2.5 hours I think they quoted.

 

I thought about doing it myself as I have all the tools, but thought it might end up being pig of a job, so left it to the garage.

 

It took them hours and hours as everything was completely seized solid.

 

Luckily as they had quoted - they only charged me what they quoted for.

Edited by softscoop

  • Author

Glad it wasn't just mine then.

 

Anyhow, took it for a test drive this morning and there is a terrible rattle/clunk on going over bumps 😞

 

I thought maybe the ARB link but that's brand new. I did however remove that and drove about 100m so it's not that. Everything was torqued properly.  Really not sure what it is, but clearly something I've done as it wasn't there before shock removed. Think I'm going to have to pull it all apart again today. Only consolation is that everything won't be seized.

 

Any ideas?

Is the spring seated correctly?

  • Author

Thanks. Yes I'm pretty certain it is. Bottom end is nestled right within the notch. Top end there is no specific place for the end of the spring to sit in. I put a new your strut mount on there. Really not sure what it could be.

 

I did remove the hub. Can't see though what I could have done there that would cause this.

Left a spanner in the scuttle area? Been there done that. Caused 2 weeks of frustrating hair pulling! 

  • Author

That was my initial thought too but I didn't notice any gaps in my various tool kits when I packed everything away last night. I will go and take another look though.

  • Author

There is definitely something weird here. Took the strut off the side I'd done and everything looked perfect although I did not disassemble the strut as spring looked like it was seated just right. I then did the other side. Put it all back together and both sides doing it. Real loud, harsh rattle on going over bumps. 

 

All I can possibly think is the shocks are not the right ones. They look exactly the same size, I double checked. Only other bits I changed were the top strut mounts and the drop link for the ARB. Again, the new parts looked exactly the same. Either a part is the wrong one, or I've done something really stupid twice. I've done many shocks before so I don't expect that it's something I've done. 

 

Don't really know what to do now. Do I order new shocks??

Edited by Benshepherd

heat shield or belly tray loose rattling on something?

 

can you gauge which side its coming from?

 

  • Author

Hi, it's coming from both sides now. It was just the driver's side yesterday as I'd only done the shock on that side. Now I've done the other side, it's coming from both 😞

 I've checked on the Sachs website as they're Sachs shocks and they're definitely the correct ones. I'm just going to check if the Febi top mounts are the right ones, but no reason to suspect they aren't as they looked the same as the originals.

It's definitely not the under tray, it's just not that sort of noise and also I've had a look there to check no tools lost. It's also not really a heat shield noise, it's definitely suspension related. I'm really running out of ideas. I can't imagine I did anything wrong removing the hub - just undid the bolt and tapped the shafts out, it was easy.  I torqued them up again properly after although didn't use a new bolt but can't see that causing a noise.

I let someone else do mine aswell. Top mounts were seized, rounded off and as a result has to be cut off. Took way longer than expected apparently.

Seems to be a common problem.

 

Have you accidently knocked the brake dust shield?

Had this problem on both our fabias, after running over a tree branch (wife) and hitting standing water too fast (me).

My wifes made then noise when turning. I had it when going over speedhumps or hitting bumps in the road

  • Author

Thank you everyone for all the suggestions - I genuinely appreciate it.  However, I have finally fixed it :-)

 

I am fairly obsessive about doing everything up with a torque wrench, but I hadn't done so for the top strut nuts as my offset spanners did not go to 21mm, so i had got a bit lazy.  I had just wrapped the rod in some tough rubber, gently held it in some mole grips right at the top end and whizzed the nut on with my impact gun.  However, clearly not tight enough as I tend to err on the side of caution with an impact gun.  As it was the only thing I hadn't checked the torque of it was really bothering me.  

 

I have just been out and fortunately managed to get a socket on from the top end through the hole under the wipers, held the socket with my mole grips, and threaded a 7mm hex bit down the middle.  It was clearly not tight enough and managed to get a couple of turns on.  Just driven 100m down the bumpy lane opposite my house and it is silent :-)

 

I am relieved as thought I was going to have to go to a garage and not done that for many years!  However, also rather annoyed with myself. 

 

The upside is that I reckon I can change my front shocks in reasonably quick time now having had a bit of practice. 

 

Thanks again.

So glad to hear that you've solved the problem .... It's been a hell of a long time since I've done any mechanical work/repairs on my cars, I can still do the air filter and just about get bent enough to change the pollen filter on my current Octavia 

  • Author
1 hour ago, labman1001 said:

So glad to hear that you've solved the problem .... It's been a hell of a long time since I've done any mechanical work/repairs on my cars, I can still do the air filter and just about get bent enough to change the pollen filter on my current Octavia 

Thank you. Changing the pollen filter really does require getting into an awkward position and last time I got a faceful of leaves and insects 😄

I learnt that the hard way the first time I changed the one in my Octavia just after I'd bought it and it looked as if it been fitted in the factory... I get my local garage to do the oil and filter change and fit a new air and pollen filter every time as they're only a few pounds ... I was doing 15-16,000 miles a year so getting done about every 7 months .... Only going to be doing around 6,000 now so it'll be once a year 

  • Author

I do 30 to 35k miles per year so I'm servicing mine every 3-4 months (I tend to change oil every 9-10k miles).

 

Best thing I did was swapping the oil sump plug for a Fumoto quikvalve plug which is basically a tap with a safety mechanism in it. I have attached a piece of hose to it and cut a 5-6 cm hole in the undertray so I can open the valve. I drive it on ramps and then it's literally 10 seconds to get the oil starting to drain. I've used these valves for 10+ years and couldn't recommend them more highly.

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