46 minutes ago, Wino said:

Yep, tends to be the fan thermoswitch just needs tightening a tad.

 

Main thing is the HG should have Temac printed on it, which I can't see in the picture on that listing, ask the seller if it's there.

 

Just whipped it back on the ramps, looking at the diagram It's just above the drain tap, it doesn't seem to be leaking at all, from the attached picture it looks as if it's coming from within the metal casing of the radiator unit, anywhere obvious I should check next?

 

I'm considering putting some sealant into it until I do the headgasket as I'm concerned about reskimming and cracks in the head.

 

 

 

Thermoswitch is about 100mm above bottom hose connection, totally invisible in that pic.

 

 

Hi mate, that's of where the leak is coming from I did take some pics of the sensor but it was completely dry

 

Fair enough. 

 

New rad cheap enough if you look around. 

The head won't be cracked but will need skimming, not much point putting radseal in it if the HG needs replacing, its a cheap and easy job to DIY and replacing the radiator while the head's away being skimmed will be much easier, replace the thermostat at the same time.

6 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

The head won't be cracked but will need skimming, not much point putting radseal in it if the HG needs replacing, its a cheap and easy job to DIY and replacing the radiator while the head's away being skimmed will be much easier, replace the thermostat at the same time.

 

6 hours ago, Wino said:

Fair enough. 

 

New rad cheap enough if you look around. 

 

Just ordered more parts Let's see what breaks next. First service and everything falls apart! 👊

Smh, last person left me a gift of stripped screws on the slam cover, angle grinder will be coming out tomorrow...

Just got the rad out the new one secured in place (ish..). Slight issue with the coolant hose adapters for lack of a better word, I can't seem to detatch the from the old radiator. Tried picking at one trying to release it but no luck. It's number 3 on the diagram below, any clue how to get it off?

 

Pull metal clip out to release, then pull, possibly very hard. Twisting prior to pulling may help.

Did new rad come with replacement o-rings?

Right, I'll give it another go tomorrow. The rad didn't but I have some already. Car currently looks like I've ran somebody over and am trying to cover it up lol...

Off to the scrap yard tomorrow... got the one with the drain tap off need the top one, only glass fiber reinforced plastic so not a biggie getting it used. Thinking about getting some more touch up paint and cleaning up the front bumper while it's off.

Just noticed the bits about cracked solder. Normal tin/lead solder does not like extremes of temperature. BR in old days used to solder external joints to find that in cold weather the joints crystalised in cold weather and I've seen joints in high power radio transmitters needing plumber solder to cope with the heat. They also do not like any vibration added into the equation. On old copper rads I used to do something I ( unlike some of the new so called telecomms jointers) learned as an apprentice- the art of joint plumbing. In the heyday of the art, the maestros used a moleskin cloth to do a solder wipe. I found that a bit of emery cloth wiped over with flux/tallow worked as well. I used the reverse side, wiped well over with tallow. It's an art- not handed down to the know it all would be jointer.