Few months ago I started to have problem where ABS, ESP yellow warning lights are on and brake red light was blinking with distinctive 3 beep sound.

I checked for brake liquid level, but found nothing there.

Then I changed battery since it was original one (10 years) old.

After that I was having this problem only when car was resting for few hours.

Today I got VCDS diagnostic scan (I attached complete vehicle scan file), erased faults since first fault was voltage problem.

Does any one have idea what would be the cause of the problem???

Also I noticed problem on navigation that is related to "short ground", how to resolve it?

Log-TMBLD95L6A6027128-259870km-161475mi.txt

How olds your battery? 

30 minutes ago, rover220 said:

How olds your battery? 

Battery is 2 months old. I have changed the battery but no battery coding was done

Ah OK, a lot of low voltage faults a battery related but unlikely if you have a new battery. 

4 minutes ago, rover220 said:

Ah OK, a lot of low voltage faults a battery related but unlikely if you have a new battery. 

That was the first thing I checked, and since battery was original, I changed it.

Now since ABS is sometimes working without fault and sometimes not I have suspicion that maybe somewhere there is short ground. I do not know if navigation short ground can be related to that

Or can the yaw rate sensor can be the cause?

The 37: Navigation errors are nothing to do with the 03: ABS issues as it's most likely to be a corroded roof antenna

 

For me, the most interesting fault code is:

00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 
            002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

That suggests the ABS module is unexpectedly losing power:

- check the ABS connectors (plug and socket) are clean and correctly connected

- I'd probably replace both ABS fuses to rule out corrosion or micro fractures, check the fuse board connectors are clean and tight

- if it continues, load test all power and ground connections to the ABS module and check for any obvious chaffing

 

2 minutes ago, langers2k said:

The 37: Navigation errors are nothing to do with the 03: ABS issues as it's most likely to be a corroded roof antenna

 

For me, the most interesting fault code is:

00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 
            002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

That suggests the ABS module is unexpectedly losing power:

- check the ABS connectors (plug and socket) are clean and correctly connected

- I'd probably replace both ABS fuses to rule out corrosion or micro fractures, check the fuse board connectors are clean and tight

- if it continues, load test all power and ground connections to the ABS module and check for any obvious chaffing

 

thanks. since it is sunday, i will try to do all you suggested:

- after I disconnect ABS ecu connector is it possible to clean it with contact cleaner?

- ABS fuse on side of dashboard and the main one under the hood? should I change it both?

- how to perform load test of power and ground connections to the ABS module?

54 minutes ago, Malch0 said:

thanks. since it is sunday, i will try to do all you suggested:

- after I disconnect ABS ecu connector is it possible to clean it with contact cleaner?

- ABS fuse on side of dashboard and the main one under the hood? should I change it both?

- how to perform load test of power and ground connections to the ABS module?

Ok. Checked all the things and battery disturbed me. 10.54V on battery

Either battery is defected, either there is smth that drains it while car is parked

That's very very low for the battery. I'd start by getting it charged and ideally tested, if it's a cheaper brand it maybe faulty.

 

If you want to trace a battery drain, you should follow the VW instructions that I've attached.

 

1 hour ago, Malch0 said:

- after I disconnect ABS ecu connector is it possible to clean it with contact cleaner?

- ABS fuse on side of dashboard and the main one under the hood? should I change it both?

- how to perform load test of power and ground connections to the ABS module?

 

Yes.

Yes - I can't remember which they are but I think they are both in the engine bay fuse box?

 

Guide to load/volt testing wires:

 

Current draw diag.pdf

Hello, I see in your original post that you replaced a suspect, 10 year old battery about 2 months ago 'but no coding was done' - are you aware that if (at least) the battery serial number isn't changed in the coding, the battery charging module will not know that a battery change has occurred - the BCM charge-rate on the new battery may be excessively low due to probable faults on old battery.

It is also important that the BCM is coded correctly for the battery type (lead-acid, EFB or AGM) Was the replacement battery the same type and capacity as the old one? 

2 minutes ago, Warrior193 said:

are you aware that if (at least) the battery serial number isn't changed in the coding, the battery charging module will not know that a battery change has occurred - the BCM charge-rate on the new battery may be excessively low due to probable faults on old battery.

 

That's only valid for vehicles with stop-start technology.

 

Looking at the scan, I'm pretty sure this Yeti doesn't have stop-start so it's both impossible and not necessary to recode after battery replacement

13 minutes ago, Warrior193 said:

Hello, I see in your original post that you replaced a suspect, 10 year old battery about 2 months ago 'but no coding was done' - are you aware that if (at least) the battery serial number isn't changed in the coding, the battery charging module will not know that a battery change has occurred - the BCM charge-rate on the new battery may be excessively low due to probable faults on old battery.

It is also important that the BCM is coded correctly for the battery type (lead-acid, EFB or AGM) Was the replacement battery the same type and capacity as the old one? 

 

Re-coding after a battery change would not have been required on a car 10 years old. I changed the battery on my 2010 Yeti without doing so, with no problems. It was only required when Stop/Start was introduced and a different construction battery was fitted, around 2015.

12 minutes ago, Llanigraham said:

 

Re-coding after a battery change would not have been required on a car 10 years old. I changed the battery on my 2010 Yeti without doing so, with no problems. It was only required when Stop/Start was introduced and a different construction battery was fitted, around 2015.

Battery coding is not possible. No available channels on CAN gateway.

 

Also I get 14V while car is running on terminals.

Battery is new and under warranty. Maybe I should change it under warranty.

All points to low voltage before ignition.

ABS Module also show deffect, but after ingnition and after I clear codes related for no communication with ABS, everything works. I diagnosed sensors afterward and all is fine.

Everything points to voltage issue, but I dont know what to check if there is some voltage drain after car is parked

2 minutes ago, Malch0 said:

Everything points to voltage issue, but I dont know what to check if there is some voltage drain after car is parked

 

Follow the "current draw diag.pdf" I posted earlier in this thread...

 

In short, fool the door/bonnet open sensors, lock the car and wait two hours, check the mV over each fuse to confirm the current draw

24 minutes ago, langers2k said:

 

Follow the "current draw diag.pdf" I posted earlier in this thread...

 

In short, fool the door/bonnet open sensors, lock the car and wait two hours, check the mV over each fuse to confirm the current draw

I checked it while car was running. Now I left the car parked and after 2 hours I will check voltage draw

 

Thanks

Just now, Malch0 said:

I checked it while car was running. Now I left the car parked and after 2 hours I will check voltage draw

 

Just remember that when you unlock the car or open a door/bonnet, it will cause various systems to turn on and the current consumption to increase.

 

This is why the correct method includes fooling the door/bonnet switches and waiting for all system to shutdown or enter 'sleep' mode. That's the only way to get a true idea of whats happening when the car is still locked and shutdown or 'sleeping'.

1 minute ago, langers2k said:

 

Just remember that when you unlock the car or open a door/bonnet, it will cause various systems to turn on and the current consumption to increase.

 

This is why the correct method includes fooling the door/bonnet switches and waiting for all system to shutdown or enter 'sleep' mode. That's the only way to get a true idea of whats happening when the car is still locked and shutdown or 'sleeping'.

Thanks.

I got thw point 😉

3 hours ago, Malch0 said:

Thanks.

I got thw point 😉

 

Left it and measured curent draw according to the diagram. Everything is within specs.

I guess it is time to go to electric guy and confirm it.

After that, I guess next point will be to have battery checkes under warranty?

2 hours ago, Malch0 said:

 

Left it and measured curent draw according to the diagram. Everything is within specs.

I guess it is time to go to electric guy and confirm it.

After that, I guess next point will be to have battery checkes under warranty?

Ok guys.

 

Thanks for the tips and all. I have isolated issue. It is not battery but actually it is issue with abs modul. 

Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesnt.

All other faults are related to abs, after abs shows fault.

 

Now, I know I can change abs module, and it needs coding (long coding) after it is changed.

Question is can I use pre-owned abs modul for Audi A3, or Golf mk6 that have same markings 1K0907379AJ?