Anyone know what to do about this.  Felt burning rubber smell while driving pull over saw smoke out og my wheel.  Dis entall everything and this is the cause.  Should i Just complete remove the rubber.  Or do i need a New caliper anytimr SOON? 

Or any guide lines on how to fix this would be Nice

It will need to be replaced ASAP as it prevents water and other crap getting to the brake piston. Corrosion can cause the piston to stick on...... I've changed this seal on several front callipers, but one on the rear TBH, but guess it is a similar process, depending on the type of calliper is on your car. EG is it operated electronically or by cable. 

its an 1.6 tdi dsg  whit manuel handbreak , do you maybe have a link or any sugestions on how to do this ? 

my qustion is do i need to remove the whole rear caliper , to install a new seal ? = ) 

I don’t know of any guides that you can follow, but the calliper will need to be removed to replace the seal. 
 

As it’s a manual handbrake, the piston will need to be wound right out and removed so the seal can be replaced, then wound back in. Again, this is an assumption as I’ve not done it on a rear calliper yet,  it do have two that I intend to strip and rebuild at some point (from a MK1 Octavia vRS)

Edited 10 November, 20205 yr by jars
More info added

Everyone is missing the elephant in the room, its not the ragged seal that is causing the brake to drag, the caliper piston is siezed with road dirt ingress and rust, the caliper must be stripped and refurbed.

 

Do not just fit a dust seal and hope for the best, you are risking not just yourself and any passengers but other road users, pedestrians etc. Imbalanced rear brakes will at best cause the vehicle to not brake in a straight line, at worse to lose control.

 

Those seals are a pig to fit even after refurbing a caliper, I did find a way to make it a little easier but it was still a fight, I cant recall how now.

 

New calipers from China are so cheap now that its barely worth the cost of seal kits to refurb, I gave up after several attempts because the self adjust mechanism was constantly giving grief and bought new Chinesium calipers.

 

Maxspeedingrods is a competitive seller for calipers, turbos, aircon pumps etc as well as forged steel conrods.

Edited 10 November, 20205 yr by J.R.

3 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Everyone is missing the elephant in the room, its not the ragged seal that is causing the brake to drag, the caliper piston is siezed with road dirt ingress and rust, the caliper must be stripped and refurbed.

 

Do not just fit a dust seal and hope for the best, you are risking not just yourself and any passengers but other road users, pedestrians etc. Imbalanced rear brakes will at best cause the vehicle to not brake in a straight line, at worse to lose control.

I eluded to a sticking piston in my first reply  

Soo basicly i need to replace the whole caliper?? 

I would price up a seal kit and new piston vs a new calliper, assuming you have the tools to do the work yourself.... but potentially, yeah, calliper may need replacing 

there i brought the tools il keep you guys update on the progress , i want for the rebuild the caliper option , never done it before so yea wish me luck =) 

I was the same, hence why I rebuilt my front calliper rather than buying a new one. You'll need to check the condition of the piston and the hole it sits in for a buildup of rust. If there's too much in there you may have to buy a new calliper anyway. I hope you've caught it in time so all you have to do is give them a good clean with a wire wheel on a drill 

Thank for all the replays realy appriciate IT while i am doing the caliper rebuild was thinking on doing the break flush but wondering if any one know if there is an bleed ordre on the octavia mk3? I know that one some Fords you start one the right rear and thn left front its like an diagonal pattern.  Any one know if thats the case whit octavias or  how do you guys bleed flush your break system? 

24 minutes ago, tibiking said:

Thank for all the replays realy appriciate IT while i am doing the caliper rebuild was thinking on doing the break flush but wondering if any one know if there is an bleed ordre on the octavia mk3? I know that one some Fords you start one the right rear and thn left front its like an diagonal pattern.  Any one know if thats the case whit octavias or  how do you guys bleed flush your break system? 

I would start furthest away from the master cylinder. I.E LHR calliper first and work round the car anti clockwise. Last time I refreshed the brake fluid on my I simply drew about 1/2 ltr through each calliper. However, I have a big pressure bleeder so I could do it on my own and didn’t have to keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir. You don’t want that emptying and drawing air into the system. 

14 hours ago, jars said:

I would start furthest away from the master cylinder. I.E LHR calliper first and work round the car anti clockwise. Last time I refreshed the brake fluid on my I simply drew about 1/2 ltr through each calliper. However, I have a big pressure bleeder so I could do it on my own and didn’t have to keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir. You don’t want that emptying and drawing air into the system. 

 

So basicly i rebuild the caliper put New seals and all that. But i csnt seem to get the piston to screw inn. Ps doing IT clockwise. But still the piston Just seem not want to screw IT selg inn.  Anyone got an ide what could be wrong herr.  Iam i using wrong lube? Using wd40 and some silikon lube. 

I assume you’ve got a calliper rewind tool?!

 

What silicon line you using .... I bought my seal kit from Bigred, which came with red grease. 

Edited 11 November, 20205 yr by jars

Yes. I do  Rewind IT clockwise.  And IT Just feels like its losing grip.  IT wont retract :/

Did you thoroughly clean out the groove that the rubber piston seal fits in inside the cylinder?

 

Usually some corrosion in there that stops the seal fitting properly.

 

You should use only the red rubber grease & brake fluid as lubricant when fitting.

Other substances can cause the rubber to swell.

Yea it was the rubber on the inside of the caliper just before the entrance of the main piston that was not alligned , was corrected the piston went inn like a dream =) now looks like i got some air in the system need to flush it ...