Hi, further to my previous post I decided to replace the timing chain. On removing the cover found it to be very slack so hoping replacing it will cure the rough idle and rattle. 

Got as far as beginning to remove the sprockets. Took the woodruff key out of the crank pulley but then noticed I needed to remove a torx bolt to get the oil pump worm wheel off.  Without thinking I tried to unscrew it and it made the crank sprocket spin also as the woodruff key was removed (the crank is locked with a pointed screw as advised by vag) I can't remember if I span it fully once or moved it back before're inserting the woodruff key and am concerned now that I might have buggered the timing up!! Is there any way to make sure I've not messed it up before I proceed to remove the old chain and put a new one in. I was tempted to unlock the crank and put the boot back in and turn it over manually but didn't want to cause any damage so have downed tools for now😑 is anyone able to point me in the right direction please ? Thanks in advance.

So the crank pulley spun but didn't actually turn the crank as the woodruff key was already removed? Only the cam was turned?

Edited 15 November, 20205 yr by TMB

8 minutes ago, TMB said:

So the crank pulley spun but didn't actually turn the crank as the woodruff key was already removed? Only the cam was turned?

Hi yes that's what happened TMB I have put the woodruff key back in now but I'm not certain before I go any further and remove the chain that it's in the right place because the cam might have done a revolution if that makes sense. But yes the crank is locked. 

It's impossible to get the cam timing wrong (doesn't matter if it's been turned 360 degrees) as long as there are 12 chain pins between the dots on the sprockets as it shows here...

 

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/drive_unit/1.0/37;_1.4/44;_1.4/50_kw_mpi_engine/engine_cylinder_head_valve_gear/repairing_valve_gear/removing_and_installing_camshaft/

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 15 November, 20205 yr by TMB

5 minutes ago, TMB said:

It's impossible to get the cam timing wrong as long as there are 12 chain pins between the dots on the sprockets as it shows here...

 

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/drive_unit/1.0/37;_1.4/44;_1.4/50_kw_mpi_engine/engine_cylinder_head_valve_gear/repairing_valve_gear/removing_and_installing_camshaft/

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks TMB for this, I was thinking that might be the case, that's really helpful. I have panicked a bit and had visions of pistols smashing into valves etc! I have done lots of work on cars over the years, mostly servicing and odd repairs but this is the first chain I have attempted and there is a lot of stuff to remove before getting to the actual chain. The sump was a bit of a bugger being stuck on with silicone but I managed to get a wooden handle on the side of it against something solid and used a bit of force as it wasn't yielding to my plastic mallet. I have since checked it with a metal rule to make sure it wasn't warped and it seems to be ok, maybe out very very slightly on 1 part but I assume there is some slight tolerance with using the silicone to seal it back on etc. Anyway thanks again for your help, this forum is great 😁

No probs at all

 

Yeah, the sumps are stuck on with sealant. As you say, it should be fine as the sealant should fill any slight unevenness.

 

 

Here's the torque settings in case you need them...

 

 

That's great thanks, I do have a Haynes manual on order but royal mail delays mean I've had to start without it and rely on info I have found on here. I think I saw the crankshaft bolt has to be 100nm but will double check before refitting. It was a bugger to get off ended up lying on ground and using both feet against the rachet.  I'm guessing there will also be torque settings for sump bolts and will check these also. 😁

Sounds like you want to put something like this on your Christmas wishlist: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-AK7301-450mm-Breaker-Silver/dp/B000WZABDO/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=breaker+bar&qid=1605464757&sr=8-6

7 minutes ago, Piescoffer said:

It was a bugger to get off ended up lying on ground and using both feet against the rachet. 

 

Yeah, I've had mine off to replace the oil seal. Was pretty tight.

Sump info...

 

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/drive_unit/1.0/37;_1.4/44;_1.4/50_kw_mpi_engine/engine_lubrication/removing_and_installing_parts_of_the_lubrication_system/removing_and_installing_oil_pan_for_a_1.4_litre_engine/

Thanks that's really useful 😁 

So I have managed to get the chain off now. In the kit I got it has a replacement crank oil seal but I can't work out how to get to the old one to remove it. Does the shaft with the pulley bolt need to slide out or does the seal surround this do you know. Also in kit are 2 silver thin metallic rings and another smaller paper gasket that I haven't worked out what these are for yet 😁 if u have any ideas please 😁

Those 'rings' sound like shims which you use to get the chainline dead straight between the sprockets.

Thanks I just realised that the oil seal included fits into the timing chain cover so I have put that in. Just been trying to work out if the shims are needed I put both sprockets on and tried to use a metal rule across the face of both and they seem well aligned. Not sure if there is another method to do this. Looking at the kits available they don't appear to be included in all kits depending on manufacturer. I'm still waiting on the Haynes manual which might make things easier. Picture below of the gasket I'm not sure about if anyone has a clue might just be me being dumb lol 😂

That's the water pump gasket.

 

Part number 047 121 228

Edited 16 November, 20205 yr by TMB

7 minutes ago, TMB said:

That's the water pump gasket.

 

Part number 047 121 228

Ahhh thanks TMB is there any reason they would have included this or am I missing something? The water pump is driven off the aux belt so no need to remove it from what I can see? 😁 guessing it's maybe needed for a different variant. I noticed that the timing chain cover gasket they included is not quite right so am going to use a thin bead gasket silicone instead as have plenty of it anyway.

I don't know, it's a bit odd as there's no need to take the pump off, as you say. I wonder if it has to come off on models with A/C. Not sure.

Edited 16 November, 20205 yr by TMB

Don't suppose anyone knows the torque settings for the 3 bolts that hold the left hand engine mount to the car please. Bloody Haynes manual still not turned up I will have finished the job by this rate 😂

Sorry I mean the mount to the engine. There are 3 bolts with nuts fixed on them 😁

Confused by the reference to nuts, and assume when you say left, you mean as seen looking into the engine bay from in front of the car?

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/drive_unit/1.0/37;_1.4/44;_1.4/50_kw_mpi_engine/engine_assycylinder_blockcrankcase/removing_and_installing_engine/assembly_bracket/

 

So I guess you mean the item 2 bolts in the first diagram?

 

Hi wino, yes that's where they are but they don't look like that in mine. Yes standing in front of the car on the left hand side. 3 long bolts which have fixed nuts part way down the shaft as when they are done up a metal plate sits over the top of then with another 3 nuts screwed on. I will take a pic tomorrow when it's light 😁 my timing chain is back on now as is the cover. Just need to put the oil pump and pickup back then silicone the sump back on. Wait 24hrs for it set then fill the fluids back up and grit my teeth when I turn the key 😂 the new timing chain is a lot tighter than the one that came off which was quite saggy so hoping it cures the rough idle and rattling

I guess it's like the third photo in this post of @TMB's 

I've not seen that arrangement before. hopefully Lee can help (again).

Yes it's the same as that 😁

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Edited 17 November, 20205 yr by TMB