There are historical reports of for Citigo ASG gearbox issues either not starting because it does not recognise it’s in neutral or loss of drive to the wheels forward or reverse. My question is has anyone managed to pinpoint the cause. My Skoda garage has had 4 attempts to fix this intermittent problem without success. They now say it needs a gearbox ECU  but think they are clutching at straws.  Has anyone ever replaced the gearbox ECU with successful results.  
Thanks

John

From the top of my head the problems I've heard of are the actuators, a software update needed or corroded/broken wires into the control modules.

Thanks for the reply. The software has been done twice and wiring checked as per a technical note from Skoda regarding water ingress of the gearbox ECU. The garage wants to charge me £600 for the ECU even if it does not cure the problem. 

Hi john

 

we have just encountered same problem on Citigo ASG in Audley. 

 

Our local cal garage has called in expert auto electrician and awaiting visit.

 

woukd you like to make phone contact when we get news?   I will explore best way to exchange numbers without public visiblity. 

 I wanted an auto but was put off by all the stories on the internet regarding the problems people have had with automated manuals. Not just on the Citigo or even Skodas, but on lots of other makes and models. So I decided to play safe and go for a manual.

The problem with our gearbox not engaging seems to have been due to a low voltage on the battery - good enough to start the engine but not enough to satisfy the electronics!  I was surprised they were so sensitive but the gears worked OK when the battery was recharged.  I am waiting for next time the battery loses power so that I can prove (or disprove) this theory.

There may enough charge to start, but once that's done, a battery will be depleted somewhat. At least until you can go out on the road and get it charged up. A battery in poor condition may take some time to charge, but meanwhile, it may not have enough energy to actuate the solenoids on the gearbox. Anything running after you start, like fans, lights, heated rear screen etc etc will make the situation worse.

 

Seems to me that there are at least two possible issues with a weak battery - a) after starting, the battery voltage is low (batteries not holding charge have higher internal resistance) and the electronics are failing to work right, and maybe the alternator is not up to scratch, or b) the electronics are working, but the electro-mechanical parts (solenoid actuators) are not, because they, being inductive, need a fair bit of energy to start, and they may be sticking or in bad condition already.  I don't know about this particular ASG, but I assume solenoids operate a clutch of some sort, as well as making the gears shift - if so, that's a fair bit of energy needed.

I think b) is most likely and that the electronic module probably uses voltage regulators anyway, and relays to the solenoids, so it should not be too voltage sensitive. And that's a point - there may be relays involved that have failed.

 

As previously said, poor earths or bad contacts will produce the same effect as a weak battery. These can be anywhere, not just within the ECU or gearbox, as that tech note seemed to imply.

 

If the battery is >3 years old, I'd change it and get a good brand, not a "China Happy Battery Factory#417 Special"...

 

Beware if you change batteries: I know sometimes a new battery will need to be re-coded with the ECU, but I am not sure if this is only for stop-start engine versions of the cars....

 

Honestly, don't spend £600 on a new ECU until all other possibilities have been exhausted, and if you do buy one, make sure you have a written guarantee that ensures the 'box will end up working, not matter what. Courts need paperwork to be able to see and understand contracts, if it comes to it....

 

 

Edited 28 December, 20205 yr by freemansteve

Resurrecting an old thread whilst researching a car for a family member ... 

 

I note the ASG gearbox works on the same principle as the Smart 451 gearbox in that an actuator motor operates the clutch, and that this motor causes some problems.  

 

Having owned 6 Smart cars over 21 years I am familiar with actuator problems and have practiced preventative maintenance on all 6 cars, this is widely down in Smart circles and is cheap and effective. 

 

I don't know the details of the ASG actuator but on the Smart by putting it in reverse it's possible to squeeze the plastic pipe of a tin of white lithium spray into the mechanism itself via the rod that operates the clutch, and I simply emptied a can into the actuator once a year - it was VERY effective, Smart owning friends referred to the change on my car being as smooth as greased weasel poo

 

I thought I'd put it out there as it may work on the ASG. 

 

My wife's car has been used infrequently and almost every time it has failed to start with the "N" light flashing.

 

We then put the battery on charge and very quickly the "N" light is steady and we can start OK.

 

It just seems sensitive to the voltage.

The internet is full of stories of people who have had problems with ASG gearboxes and auto-shift transmissions in general. Some are worse than others but they are all a heap of trouble. I wanted an automatic, having had automatic scooters for 20 years, but having done some research I decided to give it a miss and make do with a manual. Either that or a Hyundai i10, which is the only car in the class with a conventional torque converter type auto transmission. I decided I preferred the Citigo and that I was prepared to forego an auto box. Plus the 'creep' which is a feature of auto transmissions. I didn't want this as my view is if the throttle is closed it shouldn't move. Just like the auto scooters I have had. They are always in 'drive' so there can be no 'creep'.

Scooters use a simple centrifugal clutch, and below a certain RPM, drive is entirely disconnected (no creep).

 

A torque converter is always 'connected', so you get some creep - many users like this as a lazy way to handle slow, stop-start traffic.

 

Apart from ASG, the other two systems are: DSG (using two clutches, so gears can be preselected for very fast gear changes) but no creep;  and belt-and-variable-pulley systems, which may be CVTs or 'fixed interval' systems to simulate gears, both of which may or may not creep depending on the make (and vintage!)

 

IMHO, ASG is the worst of both worlds, being a manual gearbox and clutch, but with electrical and electronic add-ons to automate human action. It's the add-ons that seem to go wrong! If I wanted an auto, I'd only consider DSG or torque converter - while being complex, they are far better developed and exist in huge numbers. ASG's are a bit of a rare peculiarity.

 

In face-lift form especially, UP!'s, Citigos etc have nice gearbox and clutch actions.

 

https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/volkswagen/up/61316/volkswagen-asg

[not that autocar have much of value to say generally, beyond reformatting car company press releases!]

 

 

Edited 10 August, 20214 yr by freemansteve

I would still like to avoid all the hassle and have a manual. Despite the 'hassle' of changing gear.

Not everyone can drive a manual, but then the ASG is an 'Automated Manual.'   

One of the worst ever fitted to cars in the past decade.  Vorsprung Durch Technik somehow got forgotten by VW Group.

 

Obviously the Kia Picanto was a sister car to the Hyundai i10.

  A had one of those.  1,100 cc 16valve 4 speed (O/D button)

Then there was the Suzuki Jimny Automatic with a traditional Auto and a 1,328 cc 16 v Engine, 4 speed auto O/D button. Had those also.

Had a Smart, and had a Toyota 1.0 iQ  Multidrive. (CVT.)

 

A wonderful 4 cylinder engine and autobox in the Picanto and as long as you you did not belly out great in winter with the right tyres.

The iQ was awesome as well, brilliant fun on good roads and winter roads.

 

Edited 10 August, 20214 yr by e-Roottoot

Yep, if you need auto, better choices than an Up!/Citigo!

 

 

@e-RoottootI'm sure I've seen that Picanto up here in my neck of the woods. That number plate seems very familiar to me for some reason.

 

Apologies for the thread derailment. I have no experience of a Citigo ASG at all.

@HeavyMetalRich

 My mate who owns a garage got it from me for his Mum and when i checked the MOT is outstanding on it.

I must ask him what happened with it as i assumed she would maybe still have it.

1 minute ago, e-Roottoot said:

@HeavyMetalRich

 My mate who owns a garage got it from me for his Mum and when i checked the MOT is outstanding on it.

I must ask him what happened with it as i assumed she would maybe still have it.

 

It is entirely possible I've seen one with a very similar plate on. We do have a Kia dealership up here so there was quite a few Picantos about. The Kias don't like the salty air though. Even with their seven year warranty.

Hi

 

I too have an ASG / Flashing N issue (VW UP!) and a no crank issue ! ! ! 

 

how on earth do i solve this ? any and all help appreciated

 

its a very very frustrating issue, I have bought a brand new gearbox side actuator mechanism with zero change, a new battery as well and no change

 

I have checked all wires I can, stripped the ecu out the wheel well and found no corrosion or bad contacts

 

heres a video of the gearbox side actuator moving but the little thing still refuses to crank ! 

 

any help and insight appreciated

 

thanks

 

https://youtu.be/aNdT0Ivxm1M

 

 

Gotta be a switch or sensor somewhere, but beyond that, I can't guess....

Yip thats my thinking and it is just so simple its alluding us ! 

 

 

OK, just guessing, but I assume a sensor must be needed to tell the controller the g/b itself (or selector lever in the cabin) is in neutral, else it will prevent starting. So maybe check the cabin selector lever assembly first, IF there is a switch in it - there may not be.

 

There IS a gearbox input r.p.m. sender that may be faulty....

 

 

Edited 24 August, 20214 yr by freemansteve