Hi there!

I own a Skoda Felicia 1.9D as a daily car, but I am interested in starting a project to take it to the track or just enjoying it on the road.

I was thinking of puting a 1.9tdi 130hp from a Skoda Fabia VRS (for example) on it, but I think I will be in trouble with some issues.

First of all, the weight of that engine is way higher than the stock one, so it'll probably make the car understeer a lot. 

Secondly, I dont even know if that motor fits the engine bay of the felicia (with all the air conditioning and that comfort stuff removed).

It doesnt really have to be my car, I mean I wouldnt mind if I had to sell it and buy other version (1.6 gasoline for example) if a swap/upgrading were easier or cheaper on it.

Please, if someone reading this has built a swap like this or any other, I would love to read you.

Thank you!.

Have a look at this section first.

I've seen very good kit cars from the 1.6 platform. You can even remap them and with some mods can get them to very good weight/power ratio (as Gordon Murray says) 

In that sense any car can be a proper track car. 

Where the felicia is hard to tune is geometry wise. You would have a hard time tuning angles and stuff without bespoke components. Not knowing your knowledge and skills I can't say if fabricating is the way to go. Surely possible though. 

On 29/01/2021 at 22:25, Thefeliciahacker said:

I've seen very good kit cars from the 1.6 platform. You can even remap them and with some mods can get them to very good weight/power ratio (as Gordon Murray says) 

In that sense any car can be a proper track car. 

Where the felicia is hard to tune is geometry wise. You would have a hard time tuning angles and stuff without bespoke components. Not knowing your knowledge and skills I can't say if fabricating is the way to go. Surely possible though. 

Oh okay, I see. I guess there are no affordable perfomance parts for the Felicia in the geometries wise. By the way, I am not looking forward to build a monster tracktool, just a cheap and low weight car to have fun with. I don´t have a lot of money, neither high-tech machinery, so I wonder if changing a few things (coils, silentblocks, etc), its dynamic performance would level up (not talking about the engine here). I have also heard that the chasis could need some extra welds, I don't mind that, but I would like to start in this world with this car, because I like it and it's very rare to see in my country. Thank you very much for your opinion and information, it's very valuable for me.  

On 31/01/2021 at 14:20, antoneo said:

Oh okay, I see. I guess there are no affordable perfomance parts for the Felicia in the geometries wise. By the way, I am not looking forward to build a monster tracktool, just a cheap and low weight car to have fun with. I don´t have a lot of money, neither high-tech machinery, so I wonder if changing a few things (coils, silentblocks, etc), its dynamic performance would level up (not talking about the engine here). I have also heard that the chasis could need some extra welds, I don't mind that, but I would like to start in this world with this car, because I like it and it's very rare to see in my country. Thank you very much for your opinion and information, it's very valuable for me.  

Felly chassis is anything but stiff.
The car is very light and I am not an advocate of getting a stiff car setup ( but chassis has to remain under control).
My list of things would be:
Get - make lower ball joint spacer lowering the lower wishbone and thus getting more camber gain when cornering.

Felly wishbones will camber gain very little before going into the positive domain (past parallel to the road).

Shim rear stub axle to achive 0.2-0.25o toe in and -1.5o of camber
Replace wishbone and twist beam bushings with either new ones (will wear quickly) or with poly ones (expensive)

After that a good set of coilovers (NOT SPRINGS) !but complete coilover units! (neither eibach springs with koni dampers).
After than that (very high quality) wheel bearings.
Then front and rear strut braces..
And make sure your car has (the thinnest) anti-roll bar upfront ESPECIALLY if you are planning to lightening it.
After than that you are ready for the semi-slicks
 

Edited 1 February, 20215 yr by Thefeliciahacker

4 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Felly chassis is anything but stiff.
The car is very light and I am not an advocate of getting a stiff car setup ( but chassis has to remain under control).
My list of things would be:
Get - make lower ball joint spacer lowering the lower wishbone and thus getting more camber gain when cornering.

Felly wishbones will camber gain very little before going into the positive domain (past parallel to the road).

Shim rear stub axle to achive 0.2-0.25o toe in and -1.5o of camber
Replace wishbone and twist beam bushings with either new ones (will wear quickly) or with poly ones (expensive)

After that a good set of coilovers (NOT SPRINGS) !but complete coilover units! (neither eibach springs with koni dampers).
After than that (very high quality) wheel bearings.
Then front and rear strut braces..
And make sure your car has (the thinnest) anti-roll bar upfront ESPECIALLY if you are planning to lightening it.
After than that you are ready for the semi-slicks
 

Wow, those are a lot of things to do. Thank you very much, I will follow your advice!

Hi, I get involved in this discussion because I also have a felicia 1.9d (pick up) and I would like to put a td 75cv (aaz) engine. Could anyone give me advice? Does the original gearbox resist? And the clutch? I would have found the engine and gearbox of a seat toledo td, do you know if you can put it on? Thank you

28 minutes ago, Vins said:

Hi, I get involved in this discussion because I also have a felicia 1.9d (pick up) and I would like to put a td 75cv (aaz) engine. Could anyone give me advice? Does the original gearbox resist? And the clutch? I would have found the engine and gearbox of a seat toledo td, do you know if you can put it on? Thank you

Felly gearbox will handle at most 150nm of torque with quality oils and frequent changes (make sure to have the beefy one with the ribs i think 14sk but i may be wrong). Other than that you have to fabricate mounts and sort out all the electrics and have functioning gauges (hard stuff in my book).
Uprated clutches are a thing for the felly so not an issue.
But why bother with turbo nonsense.
You have a na diesel you have torque and reliability 

23 hours ago, antoneo said:

Wow, those are a lot of things to do. Thank you very much, I will follow your advice!

For any in depth help you can contact me directly or better yet let this whole forum see the transformation

So you say it's not worth it?

4 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Il cambio Felly gestirà al massimo 150 nm di coppia con oli di qualità e cambi frequenti (assicurati di avere quello robusto con le nervature penso 14sk ma potrei sbagliarmi). Oltre a questo devi fabbricare supporti e sistemare tutte le parti elettriche e avere indicatori funzionanti (roba difficile nel mio libro).
Le frizioni potenziate sono una cosa per la pancia, quindi non un problema.
Ma perché perdere tempo con le sciocchezze del turbo.
Hai un na diesel hai coppia e affidabilità 

So you say it's not worth it?

9 hours ago, Vins said:

So you say it's not worth it?

So you say it's not worth it?

Yes, I dont see the point from a function point of view except if you are doing it for the heck of it

10 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Felly gearbox will handle at most 150nm of torque with quality oils and frequent changes (make sure to have the beefy one with the ribs i think 14sk but i may be wrong).

 

If I found right info, AAZ is older IDI type, with 150Nm and 55kW, felly gearbox could handle that (VW has put same torque on polo's 085 gearbox, which couldn't handle even 1.4 engine).

Problem is, that this engine was originally slanted backwards, while felly mounts are for forward slanted engine from Polo 6N, so it's not that straightfirward. Not sure if it's worth it for extra 8kW.

12 hours ago, Papez said:

 

Se ho trovato le informazioni giuste, AAZ è il tipo IDI più vecchio, con 150 Nm e 55 kW, il cambio felly potrebbe gestirlo (VW ha messo la stessa coppia sul cambio 085 di Polo, che non poteva gestire nemmeno il motore 1.4).

Il problema è che questo motore era originariamente inclinato all'indietro, mentre i supporti felly sono per il motore inclinato in avanti del Polo 6N, quindi non è così diretto. Non sono sicuro che ne valga la pena per 8kW extra.

But I saw the two motors and the block is practically identical, the fixing holes also correspond. AAZ had the support behind, while the felly on the side. Well the holes are all there. My fear is that I can destroy the original gearbox

Yes, block should be similar, if you switch acessory holder, oil sump and other bits from AEF, it could fit. But I'm not sure about exhaust/intake manifolds.

 

I didn't find any official info, how much torque will original gearbox handle. I can only guess, that "10S" means 100Nm and 14S/SK means 140Nm. But it's definitely more solid, than 085 box in Lupo, which was paired with 140Nm 1.2 TDI.

 

I've seen some 1.8T and 1.3 turbo conversions with 200+ Nm. Atleast in short term, gearbox can handle that without catastrophic failure. Question is, how long it will last with increased torque.

I found Czech forum with 1.9 modified to TD. OP mentions that gearbox lasted fir 70k km, before he sold the car. But performance clutch lining was needed.

 

https://dieselpower.cz/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10974

40 minutes ago, Papez said:

I found Czech forum with 1.9 modified to TD. OP mentions that gearbox lasted fir 70k km, before he sold the car. But performance clutch lining was needed.

as i said clutch is needed but gearboxes are dependant on many factors such as temperature quality of oil rpm vs load and so on (still you are cutting it close)

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

as i said clutch is needed but gearboxes are dependant on many factors such as temperature quality of oil rpm vs load and so on (still you are cutting it close)

I'm not arguing with that  My example just confirms what you said and gives idea of lifespan of such conversion

2 hours ago, Papez said:

I'm not arguing with that  My example just confirms what you said and gives idea of lifespan of such conversion

I am not arguing either just want to make sure OP understands the risks of such an endeavour

On 01/02/2021 at 18:00, Thefeliciahacker said:

After that a good set of coilovers (NOT SPRINGS) !but complete coilover units! (neither eibach springs with koni dampers).


And make sure your car has (the thinnest) anti-roll bar upfront ESPECIALLY if you are planning to lightening it.

 

 

Eibach springs are for 3mm lowering, they work good with Red Koni but with Yellow the car will be very stiff and you may need new tooth fillings.

Lowering the car means you have to be extremely careful when you are trying to "climb" on the sidewalk or entering-exiting a garage.

 

 

1 hour ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

 

Eibach springs are for 3mm lowering, they work good with Red Koni but with Yellow the car will be very stiff and you may need new tooth fillings.

Lowering the car means you have to be extremely careful when you are trying to "climb" on the sidewalk or entering-exiting a garage.

 

 

you mean 3cm of drop plus yellow konis are not available anymore, only orange

On 01/02/2021 at 22:54, antoneo said:

Wow, those are a lot of things to do. Thank you very much, I will follow your advice!

any progress mate

1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

you mean 3cm of drop plus yellow konis are not available anymore, only orange

 

Eibach 3mm lowering springs, i had them on for years.

Some shock absorbers can work together with those springs, others do not.

 

Koni Yellow out of production? I think not.

On 21/03/2021 at 22:36, D.FYLAKTOS said:

 

Eibach 3mm lowering springs, i had them on for years.

Some shock absorbers can work together with those springs, others do not.

 

Koni Yellow out of production? I think not.

this is what korfiaths advised me

13 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

this is what korfiaths advised me

 

I don't think that Koni ever had a model for Felicia,even the Orange had to be modified a little bit.

Eibach 3mm plus Koni Yellow i think is a very ''stiff'' combination for an every day driver especially if the road isn't in very good condition.