Hello there,

 

I'm a fresh... fresh? kinda fresh Skoda owner and I love my Octavia and have started doing all sorts of upgrades and retrofits to it.
One thing that bothers me is the stopping power. I never feel like it's strong enough. After a talk and inspection with my mechanic we concluded that the discs and pads are ok so the next step would be to upgrade the Discs and Pads to something a bit more ... sporty?...
My Mechanic recommended Zimmermann Discs and Textar Pads. He's into performance cars and has done plenty of.... stuff so I trust him and his opinion. 

Point being I really don't want to go to Stage 1 before upgrading the breaks.

One problem... what size discs do I get? Do I just go for the specifications the car came out of the factory (like my mechanic suggested) or try something bigger? I use 17' rims btw.

I have searched high and low, googled furiously but either my google skills are lacking (high possibility) or the info is a bit hazy.

 

TLDR Octavia 3 4x4 2.0TDI 150hp 2016. What size Break discs should I get front and rear?

Thank You!

30 minutes ago, razyel said:

TLDR Octavia 3 4x4 2.0TDI 150hp 2016. What size Break discs should I get front and rear?

 

Welcome

 

First of all I never had a problem with the 312mm/272mm that car comes with it has been fitted to most Golf GTi/GTD with no problem. Personally I have never found any of these so-called performance discs worth the bother. I also stick to plain old ATE road pads, which unlike many 'performance pads' work well straight from cold. 

 

First thing I do is re-dress the pads, clean and re-lubricate the pad seats and sliders then see how the brakes are

 

If you want better brakes then the best option is to go for is a combination of 

 

340x30 front disc and caliper (as per vRS Golf 7R S3 etc) you can also use the earlier front ATE caliper off the R32 but it is heavy

310x22 vented rear disc from (caliper has to be from the MK5 Golf R32 because of the manual handbrake)(dust shield from 8v Audi S3)

 

That will bolt on and give you more braking power than you will need but it will sap a fair bit of your 150bhp just to turn them and the front does become a touch more crashy with the weight of those 340s.

 

Lastly check the spell-check on breaks 

4 hours ago, flybynite said:

 

Welcome

 

First of all I never had a problem with the 312mm/272mm that car comes with it has been fitted to most Golf GTi/GTD with no problem. Personally I have never found any of these so-called performance discs worth the bother. I also stick to plain old ATE road pads, which unlike many 'performance pads' work well straight from cold. 

 

First thing I do is re-dress the pads, clean and re-lubricate the pad seats and sliders then see how the brakes are

 

If you want better brakes then the best option is to go for is a combination of 

 

340x30 front disc and caliper (as per vRS Golf 7R S3 etc) you can also use the earlier front ATE caliper off the R32 but it is heavy

310x22 vented rear disc from (caliper has to be from the MK5 Golf R32 because of the manual handbrake)(dust shield from 8v Audi S3)

 

That will bolt on and give you more braking power than you will need but it will sap a fair bit of your 150bhp just to turn them and the front does become a touch more crashy with the weight of those 340s.

 

Lastly check the spell-check on breaks 

 

Hello!

 

Thank You for the great info, I appreciate it!

Never found performance disks and pads worth? Hmm... strange. I always feel a big difference when I make a jump from stock but ei.. who knows.

That brake setup you suggested seems a bit... "not ideal" for 17' thou. Btw it's a TDI so weight should not be an issue considering 340Nm worth of Glorious Torque (before s1)

Think I'll stick to 321 front and 272 rear as I don't think Size is an issue in this case.

More Research I Shall Do!

BTW you can also try the ceramic pads. I observed a big difference when swapped OEM ones with set of these on my previous Audi A4. They aren't fully ceramic, but have ceramic fibers in them. Everything cleaned and re-greased - slider pins and brake pad beds. That should give you a good brake performance. Don't forget about the brake fluid - I plan to change mine with ATE SL.6 which has pretty good characteristics.

54 minutes ago, fr1nklyn said:

BTW you can also try the ceramic pads. I observed a big difference when swapped OEM ones with set of these on my previous Audi A4. They aren't fully ceramic, but have ceramic fibers in them. Everything cleaned and re-greased - slider pins and brake pad beds. That should give you a good brake performance. Don't forget about the brake fluid - I plan to change mine with ATE SL.6 which has pretty good characteristics.

Solid Idea, will see if I can get Cermaic or Semi-Ceramic Textar Pads. From what I remember they are supposed to last a very long time?

 

Update on the specs. Car came out of the factory with 288 on the front and 272 on the back. Not sure if I should make the move to 312 on 17 inch wheels. I'll have a talk with my mechanic and do some more digging!

3 minutes ago, razyel said:

 

Update on the specs. Car came out of the factory with 288 on the front and 272 on the back. Not sure if I should make the move to 312 on 17 inch wheels. I'll have a talk with my mechanic and do some more digging!

I changed from 288 to 312 discs on my previous Yeti. Very easy swap, and does make a difference to braking performance. All you need is to change the calliper carriers and the 312 discs. 17” wheels are fine with 312 discs, my 16” winter wheels fitted with no problem.

 

You can upgrade to a larger disc but I ask do you need the extra stopping power for occasional track use or aesthetics.

I would simply fit discs and pads that fit your car. Change the brake fluid if it already has not already. I personally would look at either Skoda pads/discs or Pagid.

Enjoy your new car 👍

22 minutes ago, Kenny R said:

I changed from 288 to 312 discs on my previous Yeti. Very easy swap, and does make a difference to braking performance. All you need is to change the calliper carriers and the 312 discs. 17” wheels are fine with 312 discs, my 16” winter wheels fitted with no problem.

 

Excellent info! Thank You.

Can you show me a pic or ideally give me a part number for those caliper carriers for the 312 discs?

36 minutes ago, razyel said:

Solid Idea, will see if I can get Cermaic or Semi-Ceramic Textar Pads. From what I remember they are supposed to last a very long time?

Yes, the ceramic pads last a bit longer but it all depends on your driving style.

Coast few kilometers after being on a track to cool them.

10 minutes ago, razyel said:

Can you show me a pic or ideally give me a part number for those caliper carriers for the 312 discs?

8V0 615 125 A (left)

8V0 615 126 A (right)

All parts listed HERE

 

50 minutes ago, razyel said:

Update on the specs. Car came out of the factory with 288 on the front and 272 on the back.

Strange as my 2.0TDi came from the factory with 312mm front, If yours came with 288mm then certainly upgrade to 312mm

1 minute ago, flybynite said:

8V0 615 125 A (left)

8V0 615 126 A (right)

All parts listed HERE

 

Strange as my 2.0TDi came from the factory with 312mm front, If yours came with 288mm then certainly upgrade to 312mm

Wohoo! Awesome!

 

Now for my final puzzle... does the Brake Pad size/specification change or does it remain the exact same one as for the factory 288 disc?

2 hours ago, razyel said:

Now for my final puzzle... does the Brake Pad size/specification change or does it remain the exact same one as for the factory 288 disc?

 

Same caliper = same brake pad

Small Update on my end.

 

Decided to keep to the 288 on the front and 272 on the back after receiving reassurance that the new setup has a lot stopping power than my current OEM setup, money back guarantee and all that jazz. I'm happy about this considering that the brake caliper carriers needed for the 312 on the front would have added around 350e to the total cost.

Zimmermann Sport Drilled Discs and Textar Pads. I'd like to ad that here Textar pads are a bit.. ~5% cheaper than ATE (which I normally use) but according to my mechanic they make a better paring with Zimmermann Sport Discs.

I shall return with pics and my thoughts on the new setup. All and all is gonna run me around 500e which I think is a bargain and hopefully it gets me the results I'm looking for and the confidence to remap.

 

Thank You everyone for the stellar attitude and great information 

@razyel nice thread. Please keep on posting regarding the new disks and the stage. 

 

Are you sure the rear disks are 272 stock?

51 minutes ago, Sec8200 said:

@razyel nice thread. Please keep on posting regarding the new disks and the stage. 

 

Are you sure the rear disks are 272 stock?

Yes, my parts guy checked using the VIN. 

Will update as I go 👍 

Gathered all the parts but my friend blew his Cupra Engine  so I'll have to wait for his rebuild first, don't really want to change brakes myself.

Note: They are so heavy!

Upgrade done.

 

After a breaking them in and doing a few tests this is what I can say about the new setup.

In case you're just searching through Google (like I was) in search of info here are a few things to bear in mind:

 

- Far Superior than my OEM setup which was in good condition.

- Requires a lot less pedal pressure in order to achieve the desired braking level.

- Don't expect it to blow your mind, for that you need to go bigger.

- Consider swapping to bigger disks such as the 312s or even 340s if you want even more stopping power. For the 312s you'' need to change the calipers carriers (as mentioned above) and maybe the dust shields.

- Breaking distance did not change after 3 consecutive 100km/h to zero panic braking. But it did change on the 4th adding about 2 car lengths. Apparently this was due to the break fluid which hit over 200c and caused the rubber OEM brakeliens to expand. Going off this, in case you want to go hard or heavy track use than I'd consider braided brakelines from EBC or GOODRIGE or w/e sport brand you trust. Furthermore change the OEM break fluid (which has a boiling point of 265c) with something like MOTUL RBF 660 (boiling point of 325c)

 

Well friends, I think that's it for me on this subject. Overall I'm pleased with the results