2 hours ago, BristolBikerMan said:

Also looking closely at all m pictures I can see a little shiny bit at the top of each valve with no carbon.

 

I'm highly suspicious of my PCV, the fact I've been idling on 3 cylinders intermittently, the fact the idle doesn't return quickly when blipping smooth running engine. The fact it's $10.

It might be the PCV, on the picture I can see off my phone I can't see a shiny area on the valves but you've had them in front of you. The intermittent 3 cylinders running and delayed return to idle speed could also be caused by the oil loss through the valves seals though and will also cause your PCV not to work as it should due to the loss of vacuum in the engine.

If you're certain that the valves seals are fine though, the PCV is the usual suspect.

What's the engine mileage and do you know uf the PCV has been replaced at some point? They do tend to fail - there's a reason why this part has been revised 10-12 times by VAG throughout the history of the 2.0L TFSI/TSI. 

I take it the aftermarket PCV on yours was $10? Not a good sign when it comes to how the previous owner took care of the car if so.

Regardless, I would replace the fine oil separator with a genuine part. Be aware there are 2 simultaneous revision code journeys and it needs to be correct for manufacture date.

 

Version E AC AH vs Version H AD AJ.  There are later revisions to end those sequences, but the separate concurrent versions remain. 

 

It is an plausible thought from the mechanic on valve stem seals. However, I think he may be swayed by the single photo and one camera angle. Some further investigation I think before removing the head. Bear in mind for example the shiny part of the valves is only visible when they are closed and depends on a good camera angle in a photo.  Good suggestion though.

 

What does your intake tract along the back firewall and down into the flexible turbo fitting look like. There has to be oil in there?

 

Third photo down into turbo one the firewall. How does it look on your car?

 

 

 

3rd photo down, are you suggesting I inspect the pipe externally, or remove it and look inside?

 

I'm not sure I've got the stomach to have the head off and do the valve seals, sounds like it will get very expensive.

So far I'm in for around £600 with the plugs, coil packs, injectors, oil, sundries....

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN07aCKVrPRLYBYZFW1PHEMPBslNX7cBGwhaR0eiV8OxnQHJV60Vi1uE-UkpTZblQ?key=WE9FNFJWMFBUb3U3b2hHMkNzQzV3SDR4X3VzNEhn

Best pics I have of valves.

I've also spoke to my friendly mechanic. He suggests that its wet from the oil in the inlet pipe also, as I had no other symptoms of valve stem failure.

 

He also said the engine misfiring could have caused the build up on the valves.

 

I'm going to go ahead and rebuild it, including the new PCV from Skoda.

Will wait to hear what you advise regarding that inlet pipe, @TheClientand also what your thoughts are on my pcv -> intake manifold pipe being free of oil, yet a large puddle of oil being present in the boost piping to the throttle body.

4 hours ago, BristolBikerMan said:

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN07aCKVrPRLYBYZFW1PHEMPBslNX7cBGwhaR0eiV8OxnQHJV60Vi1uE-UkpTZblQ?key=WE9FNFJWMFBUb3U3b2hHMkNzQzV3SDR4X3VzNEhn

Best pics I have of valves.

I've sent these to my mechanic as well for a second look at them, maybe he'll have a different opinion with clearer pics. 

 

Anything involving taking the head off would be expensive and it kind of tends to increase in price as you find more and more parts to replace in it and may well end up with a complete rebuild of the head if you're planning to keep the car for a long time.

I know this because originally I planned to have the car's rebuilt engine (done by my mechanic) put back in it and I know how much money was spent on parts alone - the head parts were the most expensive bit. I ended up getting a 28k miles engine (complete, with proof) + gearbox for the deal of a lifetime off eBay so decided to go with that instead. Helps that my mechanic is also my brother-in-law, so I basically got the car with lifetime warranty and cheap labour! =))

 

The things is these engines need a lot of care and maintenance (ideally serviced every 5-7k) and high grade consumables. I've had mine on the road since November 2020  and probably spent more time tinkering with it than driving it, but I am using it as a second car/weekend joyride as I have a company car as well.

 

Hope it's not the valves but will get back to you as soon as he tells me anything. 

TBH doesn't really matter if he thinks its the valves or not, I'm gonna rebuild it anyway and replace the PCV, then see what the oil consumption is like. The fact there is a lot of oil infront of the intake tells me it's not likely coming from the valves themselves?

11 minutes ago, BristolBikerMan said:

TBH doesn't really matter if he thinks its the valves or not, I'm gonna rebuild it anyway and replace the PCV, then see what the oil consumption is like. The fact there is a lot of oil infront of the intake tells me it's not likely coming from the valves themselves?

Didn't mean to pester, hope I didn't come across that way.

 

It's good that you have your heart set on what you want to do, I was just hoping that a second opinion would help you out. As I said, I'm not a skilled mechanic and I wouldn't dare tackle this injectors job on my own, hence having to wait for weekend slots to get it done by a qualified mechanic. 

 

Hope it all goes well and you get your car back on the road quick! 

 

 

15 hours ago, AlexTud said:

Didn't mean to pester, hope I didn't come across that way.

 

It's good that you have your heart set on what you want to do, I was just hoping that a second opinion would help you out. As I said, I'm not a skilled mechanic and I wouldn't dare tackle this injectors job on my own, hence having to wait for weekend slots to get it done by a qualified mechanic. 

 

Hope it all goes well and you get your car back on the road quick! 

 

 

That obviously came across other than how it was intended.

 

Input and opinions are welcome.

 

My point really, was I am not in a position to take the head off at the moment, and have no appetite to spend the time or money. Given that there are obvious places where the oil could be coming in and onto the valves, other than those rings, I'm going to rebuild the car and measure the consumption.

Sounds like a good plan. Measuring the oil consumption should be indicative once it's sorted. Like I said, mine did burn quite a bit when I've refitted the PCV, even though the oil is still clear - 400ml in less that 1k miles is a lot to me but I did drive it hard at times.

It'll be interesting to see what I find in there on Saturday on a 30-31K miles engine.

 

Let us know how you get on, always curious to learn new things.

Yes, you could disassemble the intake Tract and that flexible connector and see how much oil residue is there. It would also allow you to clean up any seepage.

 

But, it is probably unnecessary.  

 

Without a doubt, there will be oil vapour passing from the pcv to the intake. It has to. Unless the FOS valve is 100% blocked or split. And you'd probably notice that.

 

The reason it builds up in the intercooler pipe connection is that 1) the intake charged air is cooled slightly, will cause some condensate of oil vapour and 2) it is the last and lowest part of the intake air before entering the inlet manifold. And the tb is on a vertical so any oil residue on pipework will run back to the lowest point.

 

Maybe remove the connections to the ic and drain out what you can..

 

As you have said, it could be the turbo but you would probably notice other symptoms. 

 

Yeah the exterior of that pipe to the turbo is mucky but dryish.

 

No leaks under the car.

 

I've rebuilt Everything. Unfortunately 2 of the manifold bolts were already strippe and a third helicoiled, not my doing.

 

I nipped the others up gradually to 8Nm.

 

Everything looked good so fired it up, to realise I hadn't connected the FPR.

 

A lot of whining and wouldn't rev.

 

After connecting it and trying again, it idled and revved very well.

 

A bit of white smoke but guess it will burn off, and calibrate.

 

New PCV will go on tomorrow night, before a test drive with a friend following me to check for smoke.

 

Then close monitoring of oil.

It might be difficult to see, but this is the oil spill that came out of my boost pipe at the front where it goes up to the TB.

Certainly not half a pint, but a significant spill all the same.
 

This was the state of the IM/Injectors when I pulled them (you can clearly see the fuel spill in injector port 4, as opposed to just crud build up in the others):

 

The inlet pipe to the turbo you asked about @TheClient (didn't see any value in pulling it, but from the airbox side it wasn't really oily).

 

Video of how it runs when I started it up:

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN07aCKVrPRLYBYZFW1PHEMPBslNX7cBGwhaR0eiV8OxnQHJV60Vi1uE-UkpTZblQ/photo/AF1QipMd2biN6TbMBM7D6ZafBd3DCln2yCBLzVzZKHU2?key=WE9FNFJWMFBUb3U3b2hHMkNzQzV3SDR4X3VzNEhn

However, I'm yet to warm the engine up and drive it. Which I think will clear the grey smoke up.

 

Got my new PCV at lunchtime, so will be installing that tonight.

By the way, PCV code is 06H 103 495AJ

After reading a few posts between @TheClient and @planehazza I rang Skoda just to be sure of my part number.

 

For CCZA and my VIN they are adamant it is 06H 103 495AJ, apparently AH is for 2016 onwards cars with a different engine code.

 

They must have supplied loads of these to people/garages like me, so I'm gonna go ahead and fit it.

5 hours ago, BristolBikerMan said:

After reading a few posts between @TheClient and @planehazza I rang Skoda just to be sure of my part number.

 

For CCZA and my VIN they are adamant it is 06H 103 495AJ, apparently AH is for 2016 onwards cars with a different engine code.

 

They must have supplied loads of these to people/garages like me, so I'm gonna go ahead and fit it.

Well.  You are right about one thing, they must have supplied heaps of them!!  But they are already wrong, saying the other version is for post 2016 cars.  That would be a gen 3 EA888 with a different engine code not CCZA or  the 1.8 equivalent in Gen2.

 

I'll dig out the extract @rayx provided. He was pretty switched on.  And the trouble with computers and technical information, is they are only as good as the user in knowing how to use them!

 

What month year is your vehicle manufacture?  That is the important determination according to parts listings. It was sometime mid 2010 there was a changeover. Mine in April 2011 and mine was a AJ but @planehazzavehicle was earlier manufacture, 2009 or 2010 and his PCV was AH.

 

Edit: Extract attached. 14 June 2010 was the changeover day according to this.  If yours is after that. OK.

 

CCZA 2.0 TSI separator.pdf

Edited 15 April, 20215 yr by TheClient

13 hours ago, TheClient said:

Well.  You are right about one thing, they must have supplied heaps of them!!  But they are already wrong, saying the other version is for post 2016 cars.  That would be a gen 3 EA888 with a different engine code not CCZA or  the 1.8 equivalent in Gen2.

 

I'll dig out the extract @rayx provided. He was pretty switched on.  And the trouble with computers and technical information, is they are only as good as the user in knowing how to use them!

 

What month year is your vehicle manufacture?  That is the important determination according to parts listings. It was sometime mid 2010 there was a changeover. Mine in April 2011 and mine was a AJ but @planehazzavehicle was earlier manufacture, 2009 or 2010 and his PCV was AH.

 

Edit: Extract attached. 14 June 2010 was the changeover day according to this.  If yours is after that. OK.

 

CCZA 2.0 TSI separator.pdf 599.33 kB · 3 downloads

A few years ago I would've been worried about this kind of thing.

 

But my rational brain says a few things.

 

1) Skoda won't take the part back, as far as they are concerned computer says no. He's checked and double checked, and the current advice is to supply this part, no matter what was previously stated.

2) I'm confident from reading on here, that shedloads of these part codes were supplied to people just like me, and I can't find any trace of any issues on Google of people fitting one or the other on a different year of car and having any issues.

3) If the car runs fine with the one that I have just fitted, that is the end of it for me. There are no codes, there are no running issues that I think are related to it.

 

Call it horses for courses, but I'm going to stick with the part I've been given, have asked him to double check AND cannot return.

 

I have given the car a good run, the exhaust is totally clear when revving it at idle once it warms up. I'm yet to get my friend to follow me and check for smoke under load.

 

I have since noticed an intermittent ticking noise from around the gearbox side of the top end, around cylinders 3/4. It has done it twice so far, the first time it kicked in at idle, and went away after a drive. The second time it happened after a drive and pulling back up again. It's a ticking that seems in time with the engine, but has also accelerated in rhythm faster than the engine, even at idle.

 

Here is a clip of when the ticking is present: 

 

 

I have just been back to the car to start it, and have started it twice and it didn't come back. Yet when I stop the car there are various solenoids that click, which I am sure it has always done. But the click is in a similar place and seems a similar noise (around the RHS of the IM.

 

Here is a clip of the shut off noise:

 

 

Took the car up and down the motorway with my mate following close behind in his 135i.

 

No blue smoke at all.

 

A small puff of grey smoke going from coasting to full boost, such is normal.

 

Hopefully I can close the book on this now. Going to monitor oil consumption.

 

I found a lot of old oil in the old PCV valve in the exit to the rear pipe.

OK.  The listing I provided from Rayx is from ETKA. That is the electronic part listing from volkswagen. Edit: and there is definitely a difference in design between the two units. One has an extra checkvalve, the other does not.  Whether it will cause any ill effects is open, but there is definitely a "deliberate" difference.

Edited 16 April, 20215 yr by TheClient

11 hours ago, BristolBikerMan said:

A few years ago I would've been worried about this kind of thing.

 

But my rational brain says a few things.

 

1) Skoda won't take the part back, as far as they are concerned computer says no. He's checked and double checked, and the current advice is to supply this part, no matter what was previously stated.

2) I'm confident from reading on here, that shedloads of these part codes were supplied to people just like me, and I can't find any trace of any issues on Google of people fitting one or the other on a different year of car and having any issues.

3) If the car runs fine with the one that I have just fitted, that is the end of it for me. There are no codes, there are no running issues that I think are related to it.

 

Call it horses for courses, but I'm going to stick with the part I've been given, have asked him to double check AND cannot return.

 

I have given the car a good run, the exhaust is totally clear when revving it at idle once it warms up. I'm yet to get my friend to follow me and check for smoke under load.

 

I have since noticed an intermittent ticking noise from around the gearbox side of the top end, around cylinders 3/4. It has done it twice so far, the first time it kicked in at idle, and went away after a drive. The second time it happened after a drive and pulling back up again. It's a ticking that seems in time with the engine, but has also accelerated in rhythm faster than the engine, even at idle.

 

Here is a clip of when the ticking is present: 

 

 

I have just been back to the car to start it, and have started it twice and it didn't come back. Yet when I stop the car there are various solenoids that click, which I am sure it has always done. But the click is in a similar place and seems a similar noise (around the RHS of the IM.

 

Here is a clip of the shut off noise:

 

 

Did you connect a tester after the ticking noise started? Any fuel/air mix issue code there (running too lean)?

The shut off sound is normal qccording to my mechanic - throtthle valve positioning check - you probably didn't notice it before.

3 hours ago, TheClient said:

OK.  The listing I provided from Rayx is from ETKA. That is the electronic part listing from volkswagen. Edit: and there is definitely a difference in design between the two units. One has an extra checkvalve, the other does not.  Whether it will cause any ill effects is open, but there is definitely a "deliberate" difference.

Yeah I'm aware of what ETKA is, however advice is subject to change, and the parts guy was using the official Skoda access to look up my VIN and quote from that. Whilst I agree there is a possibility that he could be wrong, I don't see this as a level of risk that I'm worried about.

 

Whether there could be I'll effects is open as you say. But in my opinion, the fact they are not documented and out there on Google, and the amount of people who have replaced this valve, I'm comfortable with my decision.

 

 

2 hours ago, AlexTud said:

Did you connect a tester after the ticking noise started? Any fuel/air mix issue code there (running too lean)?

The shut off sound is normal qccording to my mechanic - throtthle valve positioning check - you probably didn't notice it before.

Yeah no CEL light on but did see a bank 1 rich code. I've seen that from time to time.

 

Most of the time the noise is not present, and it's likely the evap.

 

I read a post by @TheClient who had a similar situation for many many miles.

 

If it happens again I'll put a long bar against it and see if I can confirm.

 

The car is starting and performing very very differently now, I'm pretty pleased to get it back on the road.

7 hours ago, BristolBikerMan said:

Yeah I'm aware of what ETKA is, however advice is subject to change, and the parts guy was using the official Skoda access to look up my VIN and quote from that. Whilst I agree there is a possibility that he could be wrong, I don't see this as a level of risk that I'm worried about.

 

Whether there could be I'll effects is open as you say. But in my opinion, the fact they are not documented and out there on Google, and the amount of people who have replaced this valve, I'm comfortable with my decision.

 

 

It is for you to make that decision.  Bear in mind, it is not totally uncommon for parts guys and TPS to get things wrong, they did when planehazza first asked about a replacement and that extract was taken from ETKA at exactly the same time.

9 hours ago, AlexTud said:

Did you connect a tester after the ticking noise started? Any fuel/air mix issue code there (running too lean)?

The shut off sound is normal qccording to my mechanic - throtthle valve positioning check - you probably didn't notice it before.

The first is evap purge valve covered heaps of times on here. Not all make the noise but if it is not throwing errors I would leave it. The second, as @AlexTud says, is the throttle body butterfly positioning sequence. 

13 hours ago, BristolBikerMan said:

Yeah no CEL light on but did see a bank 1 rich code. I've seen that from time to time.

 

Most of the time the noise is not present, and it's likely the evap.

 

I read a post by @TheClient who had a similar situation for many many miles.

 

If it happens again I'll put a long bar against it and see if I can confirm.

 

The car is starting and performing very very differently now, I'm pretty pleased to get it back on the road.

I had a bank 1 rich code on mine as well at one point and deleted it after I replaced the DV and MAP on it, never came back on so couldn't say if it was related to these or not. 

You should be fine if you keep an eye on it after you delete it and doesn't come back on constantly.

Great that your car is back up and running well, hope it stays that way and you enjoy it!

 

Taking mine in for the work in a couple of hours, replacing all injectors, cleaning the IM, swirl flaps, accelerator flap, etc and installing the Forge PCV delete + DV and blow-off kit. It will take a few hours but well worth it (especially with the upgrade parts).

I'll let you know how I get on and what I find in there. 

 

Thanks for all the pointers in the post guys, I'll make sure to make good use of the knowledge. 😉