As the title suggests, I'm looking at the idea of performing an ECU swap. The idea behind this is that I'm just curious / wondering what you need in order to change ECU's. I'm a bit of a cheapskate and don't want to have to payy £200 for an ECO map  and I'm looking have a bit more fuel economy from my vRS. I bought it actually not realising it was re-mapped to stage 1. I love the power don't get me wrong, but sometimes it can be costly. What I'm wondering is that if I can get hold of an ECU (usually about £30-£35), is it just plug and play? I've read online that if there's an immobiliser (which no doubt there is), that the VIN needs to be programmed in the ECU for the car to start? I'm not sure how true this is. Also, what's the possibility of having 2 maps on an ECU and being able to switch on the fly or before startup, I just think it would be cool if you feel like booting it or another day, saving your wallet. Any info would be helpful, thanks guys.

Tuning box for 25 quid

23 minutes ago, Frosty99 said:

I bought it actually not realising it was re-mapped to stage 1.

Well, the only thing you need to get better economy is a lighter right foot then. Seriously, take 10% off your highway speed, and use maybe 80% throttle instead of 90%, and lift and coast into bends and you could be looking at 10% to 20% better economy without risking bricking your motor.

3 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

Well, the only thing you need to get better economy is a lighter right foot then. Seriously, take 10% off your highway speed, and use maybe 80% throttle instead of 90%, and lift and coast into bends and you could be looking at 10% to 20% better economy without risking bricking your motor.

 

I think he'd rather have an expensive and complex technological solution to this simple problem of self-control and individual responsibility.

 

A remapped VRS will generally be MORE economical when driven gently than standard.

 

Fit a block of wood under the throttle pedal to aid self control and get amazing economy.

3 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

Fit a block of wood under the throttle pedal to aid self control and get amazing economy.

Yeah I did think of that  nothing like a bit of self-control. I have tried to be more gentle with the ol right foot but it hasn't really done all THAT much. I just wanted to know if it was technically possible to perform a swap

4 minutes ago, Frosty99 said:

it was technically possible to perform a swap

Well, yes, in principle, but as I say, get it wrong and you brick the car.

some reputable companies like pdparts or FADR sell ecus on ebay. sure they can advise!

50 minutes ago, Frosty99 said:

Yeah I did think of that  nothing like a bit of self-control. I have tried to be more gentle with the ol right foot but it hasn't really done all THAT much. I just wanted to know if it was technically possible to perform a swap

 

I also have a lead right foot but I'm happy to pay that bit extra for fuel so I can enjoy myself without worrying about it, I could get 40 mpg if I could stay awake, but I average 30 mpg so I'm using 25% more fuel, this means I spend an extra £300 per year enjoying my driving, that's nearly a gallon a week I'm wasting on getting everywhere significantly quicker, but I probably save half an hour a week so it's really a pay rise.

 

It's all a question of perspective really.

Even though I'm an old geezer now, staggering around and spending all that extra time sat in a small tin box on wheels just isn't for me.

2 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

It's all a question of perspective really.

Yeah. If I'm not in a hurry at all I'm happy to chillax, if I'm really in a rush I get assertive, but what I find most fun is trying to average 59mph between abated limits without actually exceeding 60.

20 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

Yeah. If I'm not in a hurry at all I'm happy to chillax, if I'm really in a rush I get assertive, but what I find most fun is trying to average 59mph between abated limits without actually exceeding 60.

 

I try and average 65 mph, 10% + 1 mph is the ACPO guideline speed limit.

Yeah I like the torque and unstressed nature of mine - She will return 50+ mpg without me even trying ... ! Over the backroads I can keep her tipping along at a steady pace on an easy throttle and just use the torque out of the really twisty stuff - Highly entertaining ...!! Motorway you are on about 1/4 throttle and she just trundles along with everybody else !

 

Mine was mapped with a hybrid turbo but still has the SMIC. I think the previous owner had intended to modify it further and told me of his plans but I duly paid no heed to that - Car has more than enough for me 

 

Just tip along nice and steady and dont go revving and booing for a week and you will save yourself buying stuff that you dont need ! Or as Ken said put a block of wood under the pedal !!

6 hours ago, paulkennedy said:

Tuning box for 25 quid

He wants an un-tuning box as already at stage 1. Restore to standard can be done with EDC15P if you can access a standard map for comparison - download map off ECU with MPPS, load both up in EDC15P and compare the existing map against std parameters then copy these over to a copy of your stage 1 map.

  You need to fully understand the procedure as it is easy to brick the ECU.

Finding a cheap ECU with exactly the same part number would in theory allow you to copy the std map off that, then copy your stage 1 on. This would give you 2 stage 1 mapped ECU's  that would run your car with all the parameters - immobiliser etc - and allow the original stage 1 map to be downgraded to standard on the purchase ECU.

 I have seen mention of dual maps on the ECU, using the CC stalk to switch, but never seen how it is carried out.  

 

It's a terrible faff, you're skint, just moderate the heavy hoof or you'll brick the ECU and it'll all end in tears.

 

Ok.

Buy a 1.4 mpi and you simply won't be able to thrash around

13 minutes ago, TMB said:

Buy a 1.4 mpi and you simply won't be able to thrash around

Better yet an sdi!

10 minutes ago, DieselMonte said:

Better yet an sdi!

 

Yes

4 hours ago, DieselMonte said:

Better yet an sdi!

 

Even a vRSDi ....    

 

Just as a challenge to myself this morning and as its being discussed here I reset the average consumption and really feathered the throttle, kept below the speed limits - 70k in an 80k - 90k in the 120k - Now I did keep the car rolling along - carrying the momentum and keeping up the gears and had it in my head to change up around 2k rpm. I had no traffic at all !

 

At work I managed to read 4 odd litres per 100 km average which is 69 mpg ...! Whether that is true or not I don't know but its a good indicator !

 

Unless the car smokes very badly I wouldn't go changing the map - Even if you have a standard map and go everywhere on the door handles your consumption will suffer badly, you will get collared by the feds and end up in the nettles.