Hi.  So, the car is away in for a service at the end of this month and I’ll probably highlight this issue then but thought I may as well use this resource before hand.

 

So, the issue.  The air con is never getting cold.  I’d say depending on the outside temperature that the drivers side sometimes is able to cool slightly better than the passenger side but neither are in any way, cold.  What are we thinking the issue may be?

 

Some additional details…

 

Mk3 vRS TSI 2017 (FL)

40K miles

Silica bag in coolant that has not burst (will be removing this weekend)

Have tried the AC calibration using the dashboard button combination

Not yet done an OBDeleven to see if any errors flag

Driving data on the instrument cluster would imply the AC is running in consumer items

 

So, with all that any ideas?

 

TIA

 

Aircon gas needs topped up?

Maybe. I was under the impression it’s a sealed unit and shouldn’t need topping up. And if it does, I have an issue with it all being sealed up. 

Then open it up and profit from your own personal hole in the ozone layer and free suntans.

 

The envronmentalists would however have an issue with you, a justified one unlike yours.

O..k..

 

 

So having run the live data in OBDeleven, the compressor seems to be working. You can see the load changing (and also hear it). Refrigerant pressure is c.6 Bar. The only think I could see that was odd was when changing the temperature using the dials, OBDeleven shows no change in specified temperature. Fan intensity does change but the temperature does not. 
 

The two circled values never change from what’s shown, no matter what temperature I specified using the climate controls. 
 

 

25 minutes ago, SC03OTT said:

Maybe. I was under the impression it’s a sealed unit and shouldn’t need topping up. And if it does, I have an issue with it all being sealed up. 

Well, it’s not a sealed unit and automotive ac systems are well documented as to leaking up to 10% of gas per year, through compressor seals, and flexible hoses etc.

6 bar high side pressure  when running would suggest low refrigerant level I think?

The system is intended to be sealed, but they do leak in time.

As others, with the note that some of the mobile units and fast fit places do guarantee "This much colder or it's free".

Cool, somewhere to start. Thanks. I did have in my mind that a regas may be the first thing to try. Being the cheapest solution first..? 

36 minutes ago, SC03OTT said:

O..k..

 

 

So having run the live data in OBDeleven, the compressor seems to be working. You can see the load changing (and also hear it). Refrigerant pressure is c.6 Bar.

 

What you "see" in VCDS/OBD11 is simply an estiation of what laod the compressor will be taking from the engine output, it will show the same figures even if the shaft is not turning or the modulating valve is not working and the second stage is not compressing which I suspect is what is happening in your case.

 

You should look at the gas pressure without the engine running where both the high and low sides will be equal, it will be dependant on temperature but 6 bar is probably right for these summer conditions (you should check on the net), critically you want to see that climbing to maybe double that when the AC is switched on before falling to an equilibrium of say 10 bar when the fans cut in, those numbers are complete guesses on my part but that is what you should be looking for.

36 minutes ago, SC03OTT said:

 

 

Ah, yes; good point about checking pressure when not running too.

Mine is being re-gassed on Thursday. Hasn’t been done in 6 years, so will report back as to the effectiveness. I’ve noticed that in the last year it has lost its icy ness…

See if putting it on the strongest setting in the settings menu makes any difference.

40 minutes ago, ords said:

See if putting it on the strongest setting in the settings menu makes any difference.

Just continues to blow out warm air...only faster 😂. 

Do check the pressure reading with just ignition on. If it reads about 6 bar, and the same when engine is running it chucks my 'low on refrigerant' idea in the bin.

Although a lower (low on refrigerant) pressure (dependant on ambient temperature) could exhibit the same symptoms but would show a low pressure shut down code low pressure fault code in VCDS.

No offense but have to ask as I don't see it in your original list  are you sure the A/C is turned on? ( I ask from personal experience  )

 

With the A/C off and the fans on you can still up and down the temperature on the little display with the dial, Air Conditioning will still be listed in the convenience consumers but the bar always stays at zero, and pressing Setup will still show you where the air is coming out.  

 

 

When I first picked up my car it was a hot day and I had the temp on Low and the fans on max and it was still warm, was about to go back to the dealer when I started pressing buttons and realised the little light below A/C in the right most dial has to be on 

 

15 minutes ago, lway said:

No offense but have to ask as I don't see it in your original list  are you sure the A/C is turned on? ( I ask from personal experience  )

 

With the A/C off and the fans on you can still up and down the temperature on the little display with the dial, Air Conditioning will still be listed in the convenience consumers but the bar always stays at zero, and pressing Setup will still show you where the air is coming out.  

 

 

When I first picked up my car it was a hot day and I had the temp on Low and the fans on max and it was still warm, was about to go back to the dealer when I started pressing buttons and realised the little light below A/C in the right most dial has to be on 

 

No offence taken, as sometimes the simplest of things get missed. On this occasion though I do have the AC on.  I’m one of those people that just leave it on all the time and let the system do it’s thing.