I have had this great car for almost 10 years and 166k miles (a record for me) and the suspension is now a bit spongey. I have had Halfords replace the front stabiliser links and suspension strut mounts for about £400 after a noise developed. Now I can hear a thud over bumps and think this is either weak springs or weak shocks at the front...any ideas?

PS from new If we had kids in the back and a load we invariably bottom out on road humps...scrunch!

Sounds like it has been a great car.

Can't comment on the noise am afraid but certainly bushes, mounts and springs all come to mind.  Are you saying the noise appeared after Halfords did the work ?

I recall on one of the posts engine mounts also a possible contender to check.

 

Out of interest, with yours being the 4x4 have you been servicing your Haldex unit ?  Have you had any issues with propshaft bearings ?

 

Cheers

Dave

Welcome to the forum.

 

@robert125

My first idea is that you should go to see a mechanic that can get your car on a ramp and see that all is well with the job you paid Halfords to do.

 

?

Has the DSG had oil changes 3 or 4 times already and the Haldex much the same done?

If you're still on the original springs and dampers at that mileage, then it's likely all 4 dampers and at least the rear springs are shot and should be replaced. Sagging rear end is common on these cars as it wasn't unusual for them to get one of the softer setups from the factory. If you're changing everything anyway, it's worth looking to fit one of the stronger spring/damper combinations for the rear. I wrote up what I could find out about it here:

In my case I ended up fitting MAD helper springs to correct rear end sag as I had already replaced the springs and dampers and the car was still sitting low. Weight range 6 is too soft to be any use on the Combi.

On 09/06/2021 at 20:37, chimaera said:

If you're still on the original springs and dampers at that mileage, then it's likely all 4 dampers and at least the rear springs are shot and should be replaced. Sagging rear end is common on these cars as it wasn't unusual for them to get one of the softer setups from the factory. If you're changing everything anyway, it's worth looking to fit one of the stronger spring/damper combinations for the rear. I wrote up what I could find out about it here:

 

This is useful for me too, as I'm at 140k miles on a 2010 4x4.

My handbook says rough road (for the 4x4?) suspension clearance should be at 158mm, but I'm not sure where that's measured? Also where to find codes for chassis type?

15 hours ago, NobbyTucker said:

This is useful for me too, as I'm at 140k miles on a 2010 4x4.

My handbook says rough road (for the 4x4?) suspension clearance should be at 158mm, but I'm not sure where that's measured? Also where to find codes for chassis type?

 

VW Codes Decoder

http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx

1JB = Rear shock absorption for rough-road design

rear axle | Skoda Superb 2010, suspension shock absorber (spring cyl.) for models with heavy duty suspension PR-1JB

http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/SUP/year/2010/drive_standart/632/hg_ug/511/subcategory/511020/part_id/2561497/lang/e

 

Rear Springs

1	1K0511115CL	coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark	rear red orange Model data: PR-0YA
(1)	1K0511115CM	coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark	rear red orange Model data: PR-0YB
(1)	1K0511115CN	coil spring 1 paint mark 2 paint marks	rear red orange Model data: PR-0YC
(1)	1K0511115DJ	coil spring 1 paint mark 3 paint marks 1 paint mark	rear red orange brown Model data: PR-0YD
(1)	1K0511115DK	coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark 1 paint mark	rear red green brown Model data: PR-0YE
(1)	1K0511115CR	coil spring 1 paint mark 2 paint marks	red green Model data: PR-0YF
(1)	1K0511115CS	coil spring 1 paint mark 3 paint marks	red green Model data: PR-0YG
(1)	1K0511115CT	coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark	rear red brown Model data: PR-0YH
(1)	1T0511115AB	coil spring 2 paint marks 2 paint marks	red yellow Model data: PR-0YJ
(1)	1T0511115AC	coil spring 2 paint marks 3 paint marks	red yellow Model data: PR-0YK

 

Rear Shock Absorbers

7	3C0513049BN	gas shock absorber for models with heavy duty suspension	rear Model data: PR-0YB,0YC, 0YD,0YE,0YF
(7)	3C0513049BP	gas shock absorber for models with heavy duty suspension	rear Model data: PR-0YK,0YH, 0YJ

 

Three rear springs that you might want to select from are the weight range 6, 7, and 8 rear springs.

 

Weight Range 6 Rear Spring 1K0511115CR

Wire Diameter 12.5mm, Length 380mm, Weight 2.4kg

https://web.tecalliance.net/gkn/en/parts/1/86359/detail?query=1K0511115CR&numberType=1&oe=1K0511115CR#@brc/search:Search%20by%20any%20number%201K0511115CR;query:1K0511115CR;page:0/detail:86359;brandId:1;articleNo:86359;query:1K0511115CR;numberType:1;oe:1K0511115CR

 

Weight Range 7 Rear Spring 1K0511115CS

Wire Diameter 12.75mm, Length 382mm, Weight 2.6kg

https://web.tecalliance.net/gkn/en/parts/1/86501/detail?query=1K0511115CS&numberType=1&oe=1K0511115CS#@brc/search:Search%20by%20any%20number%201K0511115CS;query:1K0511115CS;page:0/detail:86501;brandId:1;articleNo:86501;query:1K0511115CS;numberType:1;oe:1K0511115CS

 

Weight Range 8 Rear Spring 1K0511115CT

Wire Diameter 13mm, Length 383mm, Weight 2.8kg

https://web.tecalliance.net/gkn/en/parts/1/87414/detail?query=1K0511115CT&numberType=1&oe=1K0511115CT#@brc/search:Search%20by%20any%20number%201K0511115CT;query:1K0511115CT;page:0/detail:87414;brandId:1;articleNo:87414;query:1K0511115CT;numberType:1;oe:1K0511115CT

 

KYB RH6426 matches 1K0511115CT

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/kyb/825745

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223591301666?hash=item340f148222:g:MdAAAOSwpc5dMCXZ

 

Edited 28 June, 20214 yr by Carlston

4 hours ago, Carlston said:

Three rear springs that you might want to select from are the weight range 6, 7, and 8 rear springs.

Thanks so much!

I'm towing a caravan around the UK in celebration of Covid restrictions, so maxing at 8 would seem a good plan?  Thanks again.

@CarlstonAll of this information is summarised far more succinctly in the first post of the thread I linked to 3 posts back, with specifics of how to tie it to an individual owner's car. For someone having trouble in a 4x4 model towing a caravan, weight ranges 6, 7, 8 are probably not going to be much use given the extra weight on the rear axle. You have not given any information that would help the poster identify what their car already has so that they can make an informed decision.

 

20 hours ago, NobbyTucker said:

This is useful for me too, as I'm at 140k miles on a 2010 4x4.

My handbook says rough road (for the 4x4?) suspension clearance should be at 158mm, but I'm not sure where that's measured? Also where to find codes for chassis type?

I'm not sure where you're getting 158 mm from, there's nothing in the ride height specifications near that. The code you're looking for to identify the chassis type is the one for front damping, it'll start with G. You'll find the codes on the build sticker: one copy is stuck inside the spare wheel well, the other will be on the inside cover of the service book.

 

Most cars sold in the UK/Ireland will have the basic chassis, Greenline cars get the sport chassis. The front damping codes for these are in the first post of my rear suspension info thread that I linked to above. You can cross reference this with the suspension geometry tables I included to see what the ride height should be. To measure the actual current ride height (referred to in the tables as stationary height), measure from the centre of the wheel to the edge of the wheel arch.

 

The other important piece of information you need is the weight range that was originally installed on the car. To figure out what this  is, you have two options:

1. Jack up the back of the car enough to get a look at the paint dots on the springs (every spring part number has a unique paint dot code)
   1. You can cross-reference this quickly with the tables I put together for the purpose and see what the weight range is
2. Go to https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do, sign up for an hour's subscription (less than a tenner), go to Vehicle Specific Information with your VIN and you'll be able to download the full build sheet for your car which will include the PR codes for both front and rear springs and dampers

When you know what your current setup is, we can see what might work to improve matters. Like the OP on this thread, if you're on the original springs and dampers, they're going to be knackered anyway and in need of replacement, and replacing like for like may be enough to sort things out. If not, you have the option of going up on the weight ranges, the maximum is 14. Some 4x4 owners here have found that even on weight range 14, they still had sagging rear ends when the car was fully laden. Helper springs are the next option if this is the case.

Thanks for all the interesting comments - I had only read the first reply (as only had one email alert). In answer; when I bought the car at 9k miles I thought it looked low at the back and I have often wondered if it was a softer set up, as per one reply. I have always had the haldex and dsg oils done as per Skoda required intervals, and the previous front stabiliser and strut repairs were checked again by Halfords in Norwich and they were confident it was all done correctly. 

 

In the end I decided to go step by step in a controlled way and do more work if needed, partly as on a budget, and this would initially be the two front shock absorbers. I went to my local tyre pros garage who originally quoted to do the front shocks for £320, (cheaper than both Skoda and Halfords at £400). They said the front ones were barely moving up and down which was odd, perhaps a sign of failure, but on inspection they also found the rear ones were leaking. It seemed a false economy not to do all at the same time as driving to Sutherland in August, on bad single track roads, so in the end they changed all the shock absorbers to Sachs ones for £700, which I had read are quite good all rounders, so I went ahead. 

They subsequently found a noisy nearside front driveshaft which they felt was in a poor state (inward groan) and I took the opportunity to replace a cross climate tyre which had a tiny sidewall puncture which I had temporarily filled with gunk a few weeks back, so total cost was £1000, rather a lot, but still cheaper than either Skoda or Halfords.

 

How to test the new dampers?

No luggage or rear seat passengers around at the moment to check loaded up, so one test is putting two heavy grab bags of garden waste in the car and going over bumpy roads to the recycling centre (yet to do), another is going down to the NT car park on the marsh here which has about 8 epic road humps, which I have always had to be careful going over with four people in the car and a dog without scraping, another is sitting on the back edge of the tailgate floor and trying to move the car up and down with my body weight.

So are things any better?

I am pleased to say the drive is now very different in a good way; it feels firmer and definitely sits a bit higher all round especially at the rear, more like a 4x4 should be, it corners well on the poor camber B roads around here, and glides well over bumps without strange noises. I can’t get any movement at all if try and use my body weight up and down when sitting on the edge of the tailgate floor. It now takes the road humps to the marsh with ease, more like an off-roader, so overall I am very pleased…

 

In conclusion 

With an older car with high mileage it can be expensive to repair and maintain as everything starts to wear out, but its good to have done this particular work and to then get a noticeable improvement. I would say, speaking as a non mechanically minded driver, that the new Sachs dampers are a good improvement at 165k miles, and don't worry too much about specialist set ups unless you want to go down this route. Also surprised about how my main dealer didn’t seem to be able to give me much concrete advice on what to do with the problem of ageing suspension, except to change the lot for over £2k, and even though they charged me £60 to identify the front strut and stabiliser issue, which in the end I had done by Halfords at half the price.

In some ways am experiencing some similar issues although my Superb L+K Estate 4x4 has but 66K on the clock.  Recently i had the local garage replace the front coil springs after I suspected one had been damaged driving, fairly sedately on N Yorkshire roads that were not high on the priority list for repairs.  Now, however, I am uncertain whether the level of road noise experienced when driving on all but the smoothest roads (excepting cat eyes), is indicative of a further problem - though I cannot see any obvious cause (say shocks etc).  I have quite a lot of life left in the Michelin cross climate tyres that are fitted but the DSG, Haldex etc are due attention when the car goes in for its service in 3 weeks time.  The only other issue noted on my last run out was the ESC fault light and the tyre pressure illuminating after a 2 hr trip last week.  I had checked the tyres before we started and they are still okay now. The warning lights disappeared after resetting the tyre pressure and the ESC light did not reappear after the stop of around an hour.  Any thoughts - are the latter observations even connected to the road noise issue?  Thank you for any and all suggestions.

Hi all

I am enjoying driving on single track roads in Scotland - dampers are good, springs fine but a little soft as laden but all good.  In my experience a slightly bent alloy will also make a noise and a little vibration at 80mph and will then wear the tyre unevenly and this of course can’t be fixed by any amount of tracking or wheel balancing