Hi all. this m spline bolt is all gone wrong. Head is ruined cant seem to get good hold to get IT to move. Its stuck.  Do anyone have any ides on how to exstract these m spline bolts that hold the wheel bearing hub? 

All help is appriciated.  Got one of these bolts real stuck on my wheel bearing hub and its head is all ruined cant seem to get a grip. 

Lots of things to try, in order.

1. Heat 

2. Penetrating fluid

3. sometimes hammering it flat bends the sides over enough to get a grip again and the heat and hammering helps release it

4. If you have something like a screwdriver the right width or a square drive you can hammer into the stripped spline, then get a socket or pliers on it.

5. Sharp chisel on the outer edge of the bolt head and tap it round in the correct direction. 

6. Drill out and proper stud extractor 

7 Weld a nut on the top.

 

Good luck 

 

Were you using a torx?

Try a damaged screw extractor set - if they go big enough. 

Check them out on Amazon. 

Good luck

12 minutes ago, JD52 said:

Try a damaged screw extractor set

Or don't; they're easy to break and if they do you also have a lump of hardened tool steel in the bolt head...

Numbers 5 and 7 are the only plausible solutions, access may be a problem for 5, number 7 is **** or bust but if someone is competent enough to make the weld then they will be competent enough to remove it possibly choosing number 5 first through their wisdom.

 

As Flybynight is probably alluding to, the proper tri-square spline bit must be used, if anything else damaged it the correct bit combined with axial force might still loosen the fastener.

Edited 25 June, 20214 yr by J.R.

I faced this problem with a Caddy van last year with the added complication of rust.

 

As such my solution had to be even more extreme; I cut the casting of the bearing hub at the bolt thread ends with an angle grinder until it was just a few mm from the main hub casting then, using a cold chisel, broke off the remainder of the casting around the end of the threads to release them. Worked a treat and saved a lot of time in the end but you do have to be careful not to damage anything else.

 

Obviously this is only a viable option if you don't need to save the bolts and bearing for whatever reason.

 

Hope you get something sorted.

1 hour ago, flybynite said:

Lots of things to try, in order.

1. Heat 

2. Penetrating fluid

3. sometimes hammering it flat bends the sides over enough to get a grip again and the heat and hammering helps release it

4. If you have something like a screwdriver the right width or a square drive you can hammer into the stripped spline, then get a socket or pliers on it.

5. Sharp chisel on the outer edge of the bolt head and tap it round in the correct direction. 

6. Drill out and proper stud extractor 

7 Weld a nut on the top.

 

Good luck 

 

Were you using a torx?

Was using 3 spline one

 

9 minutes ago, HeavyMetalRich said:

I faced this problem with a Caddy van last year with the added complication of rust.

 

As such my solution had to be even more extreme; I cut the casting of the bearing hub at the bolt thread ends with an angle grinder until it was just a few mm from the main hub casting then, using a cold chisel, broke off the remainder of the casting around the end of the threads to release them. Worked a treat and saved a lot of time in the end but you do have to be careful not to damage anything else.

 

Obviously this is only a viable option if you don't need to save the bolts and bearing for whatever reason.

 

Hope you get something sorted.

sounds like a solution for me , could you please exsplain more , where did you start to cut ? at the end of the bolt ? 

Behind the drive flange (bit the brake disc sits on) where the thread ends of the bolts are visible, use the angle grinder to cut off the lug of casting around the end of the bolt.

 

Thinking back to when I did it, the cuts ended up being diagonal so as to avoid the main hub. I think the cuts started roughly in the middle of the bolts too.

 

I hope this helps. Its quite hard to describe. Let me know if I can help anymore.

Thats the ruined bolt :(

You meen to cut here? 

17 hours ago, tibiking said:

Was using 3 spline one

 

 

Got these but not sure if i should use them or how

10 minutes ago, tibiking said:

 

Can you take a photo face on please. Also a face on one of the undmaged fastener shown in your first posting.

Edited 26 June, 20214 yr by J.R.

3 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Can you take a photo face on please. Also a face on one of the undmaged fastener shown in your first posting.

 

17 hours ago, HeavyMetalRich said:

Behind the drive flange (bit the brake disc sits on) where the thread ends of the bolts are visible, use the angle grinder to cut off the lug of casting around the end of the bolt.

 

Thinking back to when I did it, the cuts ended up being diagonal so as to avoid the main hub. I think the cuts started roughly in the middle of the bolts too.

 

I hope this helps. Its quite hard to describe. Let me know if I can help anymore.

 

Should i cut here??

The drive angle of the bit does look correct now, sorry for my confusion.

Just now, J.R. said:

The drive angle of the bit does look correct now, sorry for my confusion.

its ok m8, its just this fastner is driving me crazy !!!! i manage to change 3 wheel bearing hubs and got stuck on this  ONE screw that wont just come out !!!! and its head is all rounded :( cant get a grip 

1 hour ago, tibiking said:

 

Should i cut here??

 

Yes you can cut in along there, then also at an angle, keeping the cutting disc as close to the inner edge of the drive flange there. Would probably be best to do that cut first with the new cutting disc. Followed by the cut you indicate in your pic.

 

Remember not to go too far and start cutting into the main hub.

 

I'll try to edit your pic to show better.

Hopefully you can see the red line I've crudely drawn and makes things clearer.

A suggestion for something that's worked for me before:

 

File/grind/flatten the top of the triple square socket down, so there's nothing proud of the twelve 'teeth'.  That will get you a fraction more into the bolt head, which may not yet be damaged.  That fraction might be enough.

 

When you put the socket and wrench into the bolt head, use a crowbar or large screwdriver between the back of the wrench and back of the plate where your wheel bolt thread's are, so you are putting pressure on, forcing it into the bolt head, giving it less chance to round out.

 

As you apply pressure to undo it, tap the wrench (or even the flange itself) rapidly with a hammer, so what you're doing is a crude version of an impact driver.  You've only got to get it to free up, and once it's moved you might have a fighting chance.

 

Worth a shot.

 

Gaz 

 

NB: and before anyone points it out, yes, I know the bottom of the bolt head is shaped to accommodate what is proud on the triple square socket.  It still gave me enough purchase to free off a bolt i'd similarly knackered.

 

G

Edited 26 June, 20214 yr by Gaz

Just a further thought, is the bolt head proud enough to get a pair of mole grips on it?

 

A little bit of upward (undoing) pressure from below, if you were to try my previous post suggestion, might make all the difference with your efforts.

 

Gaz

1 hour ago, Gaz said:

Just a further thought, is the bolt head proud enough to get a pair of mole grips on it?

 

Nah it is recessed in the casting and they helpfully chamfer the edge of the bolt to add to the issue

7 hours ago, tibiking said:

its ok m8, its just this fastner is driving me crazy !!!! i manage to change 3 wheel bearing hubs and got stuck on this  ONE screw that wont just come out !!!! and its head is all rounded :( cant get a grip 

 

 

Thanks all for feedbacks il will try again tomorow if i cant undo it then i think il go for the cutting , il keep you all updated whit more pics to come =) , one qustion if i chose to cut , would the fastner still be stuck ? after i cut in the bearing hub ?