How do you reset the air intake valve without a scan tool please?

 

I intend to remove the air intake valve to give it a good cleaning and as I've now learnt from changing the battery you can't do anything without the car's computers all having their turn in the limelight.

 

I know the air intake valve needs to be recalibrated after cleaning but how is this done without a scan tool, can it eventually recalibrate itself by using the car?

 

Or is there a 'cheat' reset ritual like dabbing the brake pedal twice with the ignition on then off whilst pointing north with a ripe banana in your left ear?

 

Having learnt my lesson from the battery change I'm asking before I do the work.

 

TIA, Nigel. 

You mean the throttle body?

I wouldn't expect it to be worth cleaning on a 2015 car, are you sure it's dirty? Are you experiencing any problems with the engine?

What engine does your car have?

Hi Wino, thanks for your reply.

 

The engine is the a petrol, 1.2 TSI 66kW 90hp CJZC.

 

The car was supposedly a dealerships courtesy car before my wife bought it at 7 months old with 10k-miles on so possibly also lots of short journeys, despite the mileage, no doubt using cheapest of petrol available.  My wife does lots of very short journeys in it, 1.5m to work and it might sit there all day before 1.5m home or she might also have to travel to her other places of work which are all local the furthest being 5 miles away.  In the last 12 months the car has only done 5k-mlies and few journeys above 20 miles and the years before that work out average of 8k-miles all mainly very short journeys.

 

My wife buys the cheapest petrol she can find and will go out of her way for it to combine with (food!) shopping.

 

I very rarely drive the car but I have noticed rough idle, I know they can stumble but this was noticeable, whether it had anything to do with the battery being changed and not coded I don't know (battery now coded of course) only the car's computers can know what mischief they feel like getting up to on any given moment.  The scan tool read out gave intermittent misfire on cylinders 3 & 4 which would have explained the rough idle that one time but not the other time.  Being intermittent I don't know if it's going to be a once or twice in a lifetime event or when the computers feel like it or any day with a 'y' in it.

 

I've got a can of throttle valve cleaner to use on my mate's old car with solid state ecu and thought I might use it on the Fabia too.

 

I also have a 300ml can of mass air flow sensor cleaner for my mate's car and used that on the Fabia, all of about 25ml, I've no idea if it was worthwhile really as the hotwire is so small and black I can't tell with my wonky eyes.

 

I like prevention more than repair too and as I loathe (and I mean l-o-a-t-h-e) working on our cars I'd sooner do something now when the weather is dry and warm (we don't have a garage) than in the wet or winter.  Hence my panic and going against my own advice of changing the battery too early instead of charging up as my wife won't put up with the car not being available for more than a matter of hours, certainly not days!  And we've both had two life time's each of cars not being reliable. so hers isn't allowed to be, and I know what side my bread is buttered!

  

I don't think that engine has external EGR, so the TB shouldn't be exposed to sootiness anywhere near it as far as I can figure.

You may get a touch of oil through from the turbo or PCV system I guess, but without soot I wouldn't expect that to cause much grottiness.  Can't see fuel quality having any impact on TB or any air metering sensors.

 

I'd think ignition related components would be better suspects for investigation. What do the plugs look like?  Some longer journeys thrown into the mix would probably benefit things.

 

Anyway, as for your main question, I would think that if you clean the TB by removing it, and don't actually move the butterfly while doing so, there would be no need to re-adapt it. Even if there was such a need, I think - as you suspect - that the car will take care of it itself given some time just idling. 

Hi, the fuel was also to give an indication of my wife just drives the car, la-lars to the radio and that's it and pays no attention to what I've previously told her.

 

We also have a neighbour that's been doing up the building opposite and leaving the building debris outside so we get a lot grit and **** blowing across the road from his working there and self fly-tipping for the last two or three years, or is it a decade.  I couldn't believe the amount of grit on my open carbs filters from him cutting badgers ar*e breeze blocks.

 

I realise the intermittent misfire codes could be something or nothing and lots of causes or red-herrings and that the idle might just be as they are, I don't drive it enough to know.

 

I've not looked at the plugs, I couldn't even get the air filter box cover off none of the plastic clips on the car work well with my fingers and brain and I don't want to break any bits of plastic to find the assembled is not pvc (plastic very cheap).

 

I could just leave the valve in place to clean it but to get to it is bits off and it's only another fiddly plastic clip and four screws more to remove it, if I'm cleaning it I will want to move the flap to properly clean it.

 

For leaving it to idle to work out what's upset it and its brothers should that be for 2 or 3 minutes or a lot more?

 

Have you actually removed the air duct from the turbo and throttle body, if so, VW Group advise that the O-rings re never reused, certainly on my wife's 2015 Polo with the 110PS version of that engine, a spot of oil does end up traversing that plastic duct or air tube, but the upper surface of the TB looks okay other than needing  a careful de-oiling using some very dry paper tissue - and doing the same to the plastic air pipe, I replaced both O-rings after the end of that pipe showed a gathering of oil mist, but it still comes back - maybe I applied a touch of clean engine oi to these new O-rings to stop them from scuffing when refitting that pipe - and that has had a negative effect on the sealing when under pressure from the turbo.

 

I would expect that the best way to allow the car to "recal" that TB would be to use VCDS etc, but there used to be a general way of thinking that the car will perform that same function either by switching the ignition on and waiting for maybe 2 minutes, or it does that after the engine is stopped - on that engine, there are a few "full sweeps" of something going on after engine switch and that might even include a full sweep of the turbo waste system flap as well.

2 hours ago, nta16 said:

The scan tool read out gave intermittent misfire on cylinders 3 & 4 which would have explained the rough idle that one time but not the other time

TB is common to all cylinders.

 

The long life spark plugs are meant to be changed every 40K miles.

What mileage are you at and have they be done?

Is the car on Q16 variable or Q14 Fixed servicing?

 

Thanks, AG Falco

21 minutes ago, AGFalco said:

TB is common to all cylinders.

 

The long life spark plugs are meant to be changed every 40K miles.

What mileage are you at and have they be done?

Is the car on Q16 variable or Q14 Fixed servicing?

 

Thanks, AG Falco

Yes I thought about that after I wrote that, plugs and air filter after 4 years anyway is what is recommended.  NGK plugs and a MANN air filter which is what VW Group boxed items are.

 

Getting the air filter box open, you need to remove the filter box first as all the screw heads are underneath.

 

If you are going to replace the plugs, do it when you have that air pipe off as it makes life slightly easier.

Hi thanks for replies, to answer you both.

 

I've not removed any pipes on that yet, yes often best to replaces seals but I can assure you 200% not always when buying some of the rubbish rubber and ****-poor parts we get in this country, I expect the VAG seal to be OK (but you can never be sure even buying from the part manufacturer).

 

It does throw up the problem of finding the correct part number, I'm so used to be able to look up parts on 40 -60 year old vehicle usually with ease but I wouldn't know where to find a parts book for this car.  I've found that information for this car is so much more difficult to find than I'm used to - but I'm grateful to those on this site and YouTube.

 

If I had access to the ETKA? parts list? I'd be happy, are they still on microfiche?  

 

AG Falco, the maybe intermittent misfire is really a different issue perhaps but I don't know how much all these computers gang up to take advantage of an innocent like myself, they may not have as many brain-farts as me but they do have them and gawd knows why and what they're going to come out with.

 

Mileage is 39k, sparkplugs were charged for so hopefully changed at 28k, September 2019 (4 years old).  I don't believe that just because you can keep stuff say 40k (or more) that you always should or that the part although still working won't be well passed its optimum or best or even good.  (what's the betting now I've put that the plug weren't changed, no I'm sure they were, hopefully they're not like a certain GM/Vauxhall, hopefully of the past.

 

ETA: Also as this car does so many very short journeys it needs more attention and part than mileage or perhaps time interval, I'd be using better quality engine oil that offers greater margins of protection.  I recently changed the transmission oil, but that's another 'story', and my wife said she could notice the difference and she wouldn't say that just to keep me happy.  Some believe that oil is in the ground millions of years and that's how long it can stay in the transmission.

 

Although the name of the service seems to vary I've never seen any reference to Q 16 or Q 14 the car goes in every 12 months and gets whatever service is required so far they've been called Inspection with oil change, 30k Service, Major and minor.   Twice I've remined the dealership(s) the brake 'service' was also due and required and the last time despite reminding them of this and checking if anything else was required so that we could budget for the expense it wasn't until my wife went to pick the car up they said the cambelt was due!

 

I'm beginning to think this throttle valve cleaning might be too much effort for too little reward, I had to look at a video to see how to get into the air filter, I was glad to see it looks like it was changed last September, and no one mentioned the inverted snorkel on it what's that about with a valve? that seems to go neither way and the bayonet pins were different sizes which I didn't notice until I tried to refit it, two screws underneath, why all the security, how much do these filters cost!  

 

Edited 2 July, 20214 yr by nta16
ETA:

41 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

Getting the air filter box open, you need to remove the filter box first as all the screw heads are underneath.

Now you tell me.  

 

Just joking, see my last post.

For part numbers go here then search by engine code and you can view all the diagrams relevant to this engine:

engine Fabia (FAB) [EUROPA 2015 year] (7zap.com)

Use a computer rather than phone as mobiles seem to ditch some of the useful columns in the parts tables of the pages.

The smallish pipe that points down, I'd think is just a cold air feed, but I never noticed anything that controls when it is used, unlike cars from 2002ish.

Why VW Group designed an air filter holder for 2002ish cars with the cover screws underneath, then changed it to just being a rectangular box that had the screws on the top round about 2009ish, then managed to invert it again for this model, sort of beggars belief.

This air cleaner box is I seem to remember fastened to the engine by 3-off  "pull off" fittings which are as in the case of the 2002ish cars, just rubber donuts that get pushed down onto vertical pillars that have a lip to retain the donuts forced down over them.

Some people manage to pull the coils off the plugs using their hands, I played safe and bought an extractor tool that has an expanding screw that is passed down into the hole in the coil where the retaining screw passes through, then you expand the collet in that hole and pull up vertically.

 

The "cam belt needs replacing" issue, this is not what VW AG say is what needs doing, so maybe search around the interweb for further info about that, I'd prefer not give advice on that one.

2 hours ago, Wino said:

For part numbers go here then search by engine code and you can view all the diagrams relevant to this engine:

engine Fabia (FAB) [EUROPA 2015 year] (7zap.com)

Use a computer rather than phone as mobiles seem to ditch some of the useful columns in the parts tables of the pages.

Thanks.

I had a look on my PC and can't see anything related. 

Edited 28 April28 Apr by nta16

Thanks rum4mo,

 

The drop pipe I can't get my head around unless the valve? at the bottom is thermal operated, one or two different plastics expanding at different rate(s) but there's only a very small hole at the bottom, perhaps air goes out instead of in or a moisture/condensation drip valve - all totally beyond me.

 

IIRC we had a Ford Cortina (2000E) where the air inlet pipe to the car pivoted horizontal for normal use and vertical toward the hot exhaust for cold weather use.

 

Yes the air filter box is in three ball pegs, that going into I guess rubber cups or open grommets , difficult to see black parts fitted to other blacks, I saw on a video the order the hoses have to be disconnected so that the box can be lifted off the pegs, that air filter must be very precious!

 

I'd have to look at the coils so if something can be made up or my neighbour might have the correct or similar tool - but unless anything happens again I ain't not touching nuffink.

 

I was really annoyed about the cambelt as I had a feeling it was at around that time - and according to Skoda Servicing and Maintenance National Price Serving info I got after the cambelt is in the 5 years or 50K miles column.  I've never found the Skoda UK website that good for servicing info always very confusing and different to when I previously looked. 

national-price-servicing-min.63862747c3e6286ede19bc446a023030.pdf

 

Edited 28 April28 Apr by nta16
pressed wrong button

7 hours ago, nta16 said:

Thanks.

I had a look on my PC and can't see anything related. 

 

Try again.

The link takes you to a page with every part of every 2015 Mk3 Fabia engine, arranged in  many links to individual pages (click on a picture of any that have CJZC in the title).

Example, this page showing TB and associated parts.

intake system - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2015 year] (7zap.com)

@nta16, I've just checked up on the parts listing on IFI  website (https://ifinterface.com/)   and that long downward pointing pipe with the restrictor in it is called "water drainage hose" - so that will be its only function and not any cold air inlet as these cars don't seem to have any of that nowadays.

Edited 3 July, 20214 yr by rum4mo

5 hours ago, Wino said:

Try again.

The link takes you to a page with every part of every 2015 Mk3 Fabia engine, arranged in  many links to individual pages (click on a picture of any that have CJZC in the title).

Doh! the wonky brain and eyes strike again. 

 

Even with your link I couldn't follow the path back one step until I zoomed in the page size, I need a 36" monitor I've only got a 19" widescreen.

 

Many apologies to you and thanks for your patience, I'm usually alright with these sorts of things but sometimes I just can't see for looking, I'm sure it won't be much longer before I need a carer.   

 

I can now get the seal from the dealership, if I carry on, I'm going to do my mate's this afternoon he'll take the unit out and reinstall so he can be careful about any seal or grommet.  I once had a two in  20,000 and 20 years of production faulty seal but that's another story ...

 

With cars generally if it wasn't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all, except for the proper Japanese Japanese cars and then it's only dealing with the English dealerships.  

Edited 3 July, 20214 yr by nta16
speeling and stuff

2 hours ago, rum4mo said:

@nta16, I've just checked up on the parts listing on IFI  website (https://ifinterface.com/)   and that long downward pointing pipe with the restrictor in it is called "water drainage hose" - so that will be its only function and not any cold air inlet as these cars don't seem to have any of that nowadays.

Whilst looking on the parts pages I did have a look and saw that, before I saw your post of course.  If I remember next I have the box out I'll put some water in it to see if it's some sort of dump valve(?) or just a bit of plastic with a small hole.

 

Provided the drawings are correct and parts in correct order of assembly they are also useful to see what's where before starting a job and goes where when you've forgotten to take notes, drawings, photos and can't remember on reassembly.  On the 'classic' (overpriced old cars) MGs the parts drawings from the parts suppliers and even some in the original factory Workshop Manuals can have errors which catch out those that don't know (like me).

 

Edited 3 July, 20214 yr by nta16

I've not read through all the posts on this thread, but just to add my immediate thoughts.

 

Its far more likely to be plugs and/or ignition coil packs that are giving the rough idle. Highly unlikely to be a throttle body issue. The mixture is determined/trimmed by the lambda (oxygen) sensors, throttle body just regulates airflow.

 

As it has thrown up misfire on cylinders 3 and 4, thats where to start.

OE plugs are double platinum fine tip and are usually good for 40,000 miles. OE coil packs have a dodgy reputation for reliability, fortunately easy to obtain quality replacements from various places at around £30. 

 

When an engine is started from cold it runs rich until the CAT reaches operating temperatures , I believe these engines are known to be a bit lumpy during that time which should only be a few minutes at most.

 

When you remove the spark plugs you should be able to see if there is a mixture or oil burning issue.

 

Presumably you have checked your air filter is not completely bunged up.

 

Finally, I did see you were charged for spark plugs at 28k and assume they were changed. Don't assume anything, it is known that some garages charge for work not done. If it was an independent they may have fitted some cheap and cheerful plugs, not OE quailty double platinum fine tip. Or maybe damaged or not refitted the ignition coils correctly. They require a special tool to remove the coils otherwise they can break easily, leaving the long bit down the hole and very difficult to remove, easy to picture a mechanic "oops... sht.....just screw the top bit back down and they won't notice......"

 

Good luck.

Edited 3 July, 20214 yr by xman

Xman thanks.

 

I shouldn't really have thrown in about the intermittent codes as they might not be anything IIRC they were just the P3 lots of noughts and 3 and 4 at the end, they could have been from me charging the old battery, disconnecting the old battery, refitting a new battery without coding, disconnecting the BEM/BMS, the wiper stalk having grease over all its contacts, the weather or me standing on one leg pointing north - I don't always trust everything a computer tells me. 

 

The car has always been serviced at the local Skoda dealership (through the change of owners) except the first service which was I believe only done on paper, well computer files, by the selling dealership and then it was only because I insisted on a paper print out, you'd have thought I'd asked for their first born child, it took long enough that the office staff could have been making the job appear on the computer, a "10k mile service" on 31/12/2016, uhm, yeah, maybe.

 

I know not to assume, anything, and a mate had a GM/Vauxhall dealership garage not do a full service and charge for it on his wife's car, he'd marked the parts that were on the car before it went in so knew for sure.

 

I've very little mechanical or technical aptitude but I'm used to 1960s and 1970s cars so I am used to checking the basics (when I remember) and preach to others to always start with the basics and recheck what you've already double-checked (a touch of the 'do as I say not as I do').

 

One of the reasons I wanted to open the air filter box was to check the filter had been changed, it had, to be fair my wife always says the car feels better after the dealership services (and when I changed the transmission oil earlier this year).  So unless I need to I won't bother about the plugs (I don't know what plug socket is required, thinwalled?).

 

I rarely drive the car so I'll wait for the boss to say if she notices anything odd with it, the few times I have it I can sometimes get the chance to give it an 'Italian tune-up', after fully warming the engine of course, that at least gives me some idea of how the engine is running.  The boss always says the car feels better after I've driven it, she's got so used to 5th gear at 35mph in her previous cars.

 

Cheers, Nigel.

Edited 3 July, 20214 yr by nta16

The air filter is listed to change at 60K miles.

You have to remove the air filter housing to get to the spark plugs.

I changed my air filter when I did my spark plugs at 37.5K miles / 4 years old.

The old air filter and spark plugs both looked good.

 

If the air filter was not changed then I doubt the spark plugs will have been changed.

 

Thanks, AG Falco

 

@nta16I agree about the usefulness of being able to view parts listings, all good stuff, well after you have had reason to search for many parts in all areas and so trained yourself into how the catalogue was designed.

 

My best extra feature I ended up with when buying my next laptop was touch screen, very handy when searching through parts listings!

 

I used to buy the odd Ekta disc to keep me going, but now that these "nice" Russians seem to offer free access to some hooky genuine up to date VW Group catalogues, I've stopping buying these Ekta discs, goodness knows what nasties they are sending down the line though as is said, especially in computing, if it is free then you are the product, gulp!

 

Edit:- probably not that you will end up using this, but when these engines were built, the factory fitted version "a" of these plugs, when I replaced my wife's 2015 Polo's plugs, the plugs I got were version "b" - I can look up if you are interested, and let you know if it was the VAG parts code that had changed or the NGK model number that had changed, but in my head, I think that one changing was reflected in the other - so if the current plugs have an "a" within their NGK model number they were probably not replaced and if they has a "b" in the NGK model number they have been.

 

The coils, VW Group went through a very bad patch coil reliability wise but that was back in maybe 2004 > 2008,this I think was mainly due to VW's suppliers being encouraged maybe to include more local content and the desire to reduce costs to the factories, this meant coil manufacturers ended up moving East wards which was not good initially, my wife's 2002  old Polo had proper old European Eldor coils made in a proper old European country like Germany and only had 2 coils fail in its 13 years from new with us, her 2015 Polo has Eldor coils made in Turkey, which concerns me a bit as Turkey is well known for state sponsored "copy" factories, so there could be more than one "Eldor" factory although that should only affect anyone buying via ebay etc, the move East wards lead to some bad habits and high voltage insulation was a casualty - and so many VW Group cars had early coil failures between 2004 and 2008, in fact most people that bought new Audis with the 1.8T engine, spent a lot of their early days of ownership driving around in I think Sourers(sp?) things got that bad.  Audi dealerships in Europe tended to grab a loan of older stock " so okay" coils from Skoda dealership  car stocks, sad but true. I have always considered Beru to either have similar issues or were unreliable even when manufactured within "old" Europe, others might know different. That was just background chatter concerning VW Group coils, which from my personal experience, is in the past as things have been sorted out or at least improved.

Edited 3 July, 20214 yr by rum4mo

4 hours ago, AGFalco said:

The air filter is listed to change at 60K miles.

 

There you go a perfect example of me "do as I say not as I do" I didn't even notice the air filter was on the 6 years / 60k-miles lists I've put up twice now, wow that's a long time.  I was at my mate's this afternoon cleaning the MAF (already clean as a whistle) and throttle body (carbon powder only) and as his car is 26 years old (59k-miles), I was little surprised even though I know he looks after it and it is garaged then he tells me he 'annual' services it at 6 months and 2-year service every 12 months, so the air filter is changed every 6 months.  He showed me the last air filter he took out and apart from a smudge of dirt off a gloved thumb it looked as new  both sides.

 

 

4 hours ago, AGFalco said:

If the air filter was not changed then I doubt the spark plugs will have been changed.

 

The air filter on my wife's car has been changed as it looks good, I thought last September but I'm wrong, it was September 2019 when the spark plugs were done.  Considering our cars sit outside 365/6 and our neighbours very lazy building habits I'm surprised it's so clean, my open filters on the MG were covered in breeze block grit from him cutting them with a half-sharp blade.

 

Edited 3 July, 20214 yr by nta16

@rum4mo all very interesting stuff.

 

Mouse pads and touchscreens don't like my fat oily fingers, computers already drive me mad, Microsh*t twice today have updated and removed my user settings despite me being the admin.  But a "smart" (really !?) phone did give me a marvellous memorable moment when it played up when I needed it, so I skimmed it across an empty canteen floor and it slid  all the way across and bounced off the skirting board on the other side of the room.  My wife's friend's face was a picture, it was my wife's very ancient phone made out of stone and in a thick protective cover so came to no harm - but still the journey didn't improve it (almost no volume to ear).  If you saw my ancient "burner" mobile you'd think I was a drug dealer, it just about never leaves the spare room desk and still has about £14 on it from a £20 pre-paid card my wife got for it's predecessor which failed I think through lack of use, the phones are often switched off for months.

 

Yes, I'd be pleased to know the VAG part number or NGK number.

 

Average classic vehicle owners on average generally tend to be tight-fisted and because they so rarely drive their vehicles, most seem to have more than one or a fleet that get used even less, so they insist on buying the cheapest ****-poor rubbish and crap parts they can, even if a better quality version of the same part is offered.

 

I'm sorry Beru quality has dropped as I relied on getting NOS Beru, or Bosch, rotor arms and dissy cap as my fully electronic aftermarket 123-ignition scars the cap posts instantly.  I've just got another 'Intermotor' cap which has been Standard Motor Parts (SMPE) for a good while and they still seem reasonable.  Part of Lucas product lines is one of SMPE brands, Elta also owns Lucas name for other products.  Lucas products in the green boxes have been of suspect quality for very many years, so much so that the packaging has change to red but not the same style as the old packaging.

 

Some classic car parts are so poor they're not worth fitting, some last between minutes of use (or not) to months but not always more than that, they really are that bad.  I've been plagued by rubbish rubber going back 15 years, currently popular to blame the 'f'an'ol rather than poor modern quality - or very ancient parts on near static vehicles.

 

It's just about certain this low quality will find it's way into modern car parts, those that aren't already counterfeit, I'd be happy with counterfeit for classic car parts as they'd probably be of higher quality.

 

Parts catalogues and how they're compiled are always great fun in trying to remember how different suppliers organise and categorises theirs.  Of course as with every database (computer or not) there are errors and omissions and these get copied and repeated.  Cross-reference lists get more errors as the variations of what basically is the same parts but with different numbers and applications to different marques and models as the variations of that part are no longer as even NOS.  The exact same part, modern made can be a higher or lower price depending on which marque and model you order it as.  Same I suppose if you order the same part for a (fantastic plastic) Bentley or Audi, VW or Skoda.

 

See, see, wot you dun there, you got me going on spare parts quality.  

Edited 3 July, 20214 yr by nta16

@nta16, I'm sorry if I hit a "weak" spot (ha ha!). It was always NOS Eldor coils that I aimed for on ebay for spares for my wife's previous 2002 Polo, after I had to use the first spare, I felt that the clock was almost running out for me being without the next spare spare, so gave up waiting for ebay to serve up the next NOS Eldor and grabbed a "used but still okay Beru coil that has been kicking about my toolbox for a while", well  month later it was required, a month later ebay served up my next NOS Eldor, a week later wife said "car is running a bit rough" - I plugged in my diagnostic tool for laziness/efficiency and it pointed to the recently fitted Beru - that as far as I was concerned confirmed my thoughts about Beru coils that were manufactured in some "becoming modernised" Eastern European country! It always seemed to be the "move to the East" that plagued all these parts.

 

NGK spark plug for the 1,2TSI 16V engine:- at the age of your car the factory fit would have been VW AG part number 04E 905 601 with no NGK reference number on them, just VW AG  NGK on the insulator. the replacements I bought from a UK based sparkplug supplier as NGK were in fact NGK plugs packed in VW Group boxes with VW Group part number 04E 905 601 B   on the box and on the plug body, the box also had the corresponding NGK part number/model printed below the VW Group part number and that is NGK  PZKER7B8EGS.     22NM torque 16mm spark plug socket.  Laser Tools sell a conveniently sized one, 245mm long 3/8" sqr drive with a magnet in it to hold the plug secure Laser Tools 3682.

 

Edit:- one thing about that Laser Tools spark plug long socket is, many places list it as being 14mm, but the Laser Tools item with the part number 3682 is 16mm, I can't explain why still after many years, some places including Halfords which seem to be the cheapest, are describing it as being a 14mm socket! Get them to open the packaging up and check it with their dial callipers before paying for it!

 

Another Edit:- Lucas, I think that the brothers that own ECP bought over that trading name and rent it out to anyone needing to apply some credibility to their cheap nasty Eastern way sourced rubbish.

Edited 5 July, 20214 yr by rum4mo