Coolant issues

[magicpants]

Had my coolant light ping up on my vrs today.

When checking my coolant level it is below minimum and when scanned got the P188900 code, which indicates coolant shut off valve (short circuit to ground/open circuit). This was cleared and didn't come back when I re-scanned, but the dash warning does.

 

Am I ok to fill up with Halfords G40 coolant even though it suggests G13 coolant? 

I'm in a pickle, as I need to get sorted by Thursday as I'm taking a long journey to Wales.

Am I ok to just top-up?

 

[langers2k]

I'd ring a few local garages and see if anyone has the correct VW spec coolant.

 

If you're quick, Amazon can get you some tomorrow using prime: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Volkswagen-coolant-G12E050A2-replaces-G013A8JM1/dp/B08BNNMR2G/

 

G12evo can be added to G13 without issue: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/20182/

[magicpants]

Thanks. I agree, I think I'd rather stick to G13 and not chance it.

 

Thanks for the links.

 

I'm pretty sure I can sort something tomorrow. Just concerned that the coolant has gone so quickly and the error code doesn't sound good.

 

Will top it up and go from there.

 

Ta

[varaderoguy]

Just to ask - what year is your VRS?  If its 2013-2017 (non-facelifted), you could be experiencing issues with lose of coolant due to either a failing waterpump (check to see if there is any weeping coming from the pump itself) - or a coolant tank cap failure.

The error message seems to be related though to a faulty shut-off valve for the coolant (which I think regulates the coolant level to the engine, so a serious issue) - see more here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/P1888

 

In terms of coolant itself, G13 is retired as a standard - your direct replacement is G12evo or G12++ coolant.  Don't use any other coolant as it will cause you issues.

[magicpants]

It's 2014, petrol.

 

I've just spoken to my local Skoda garage and he had to Google whether g12 could be mixed. So I'm getting some g12 this afternoon.

 

Sorry, not mechanically minded.

Where abouts is the pump located?

 

The tank cap feels ok and and can feel pressure when unscrewed.

[langers2k]

26 minutes ago, varaderoguy said:

Just to ask - what year is your VRS?  If its 2013-2017 (non-facelifted), you could be experiencing issues with lose of coolant due to either a failing waterpump (check to see if there is any weeping coming from the pump itself) - or a coolant tank cap failure..

 

I think they have a 2014 petrol vRS looking at their old posts.

 

My FL 2018 vRS is loosing coolant so it's not just the pre-FL... it drops from max to min in about 3-4k so it's going in for investigation next week under warranty, the dealer mentioned they had coolant pumps in stock without prompting so it must be pretty common 

 

TPI 2049121/3 covers coolant loss and a few of the production changes they've made:
• Optimizing filling process of coolant in CW 12/2015.
• Measure to ensure tightness of coolant regulator housing, introduced in CW 27/2019.
• Measure to ensure tightness of coolant pump, introduced in CW 23/2020.

 

Not that the TPI gives much clue as to exactly where the pump is:

 

This might help though:

[varaderoguy]

1 hour ago, magicpants said:

he had to Google whether g12 could be mixed

Seriously - the SKODA Garage had to check this out - they should know this stuff.  Be really careful, because there are various standards all very similarly named:  Your garage should be utilising G12++ or G12evo as a direct replacement for G13 coolant and not just plain G12.

 

[magicpants]

Yes, I do wonder if the people on this parts/service dept just provide admin than actually knowing their products.

 

Thanks for the heads up. I'll make sure I get g12++ or g12evo.

 

[lway]

That chart is a bit confusing, surely it should be symmetrical, is there an axis label missing ? Is the columns representing what you already have in the car and the rows what you are topping up with ?

 

If I start at G11 on the top (column with "BLUE GREEN" and go down, it appears as if G11 is Always Miscable with G13

But if I start on the G11 row and go across to the G13 column it is Miscable, yet loss of corrosion protection. 

 

 

[langers2k]

1 hour ago, lway said:

That chart is a bit confusing, surely it should be symmetrical

 

I prefer the chart from the rosstech thread I posted although it basically says the same thing with G12 evo added:

 

What your car has is along the top axis, what you're adding is along the left axis.

 

For a car with G11 originally, look down the left hand column:

- G11 is factory

- G12 is not compatible

- G12+, G12++, G13, G12evo are all mixable with G11 and will protect as well or better

 

In my case, I'd look down the 5th column:

- G13 is factory

- G11, G12, G12+ are not recommended due to reduced protection

- G12++ and G12evo are both mixable with G13 and will protect as well or better

 

 

Edited 21 July, 2021 by langers2k
typo

[magicpants]

Ok, so managed to get g12evo from Skoda. The guy I spoke to was a trainee. For those interested, they charged £7.50 for 1litre.

 

Filled up 500ml of coolant.

 

Ran idle up to temperature - coolant settled at 108 degrees. No warning lights. Fan kicked in after 5-10 mins.

 

Couldn't see any leaks other than condensation off air con pipes.

 

Did a few scans and no errors.

 

Going to take it for a spin in a mo.

[magicpants]

Took car out for half hour drive. Temperature didn't exceed 108 degrees and appears to be fine.

 

Going to get it booked into a vag specialist in a week to investigate the error code and loss of coolant. Suspect I'll need a new pump. I'll monitor levels over the next few days.

 

Thanks for your help everyone.

 

Will keep you posted.

Edited 21 July, 2021 by magicpants
Typo

[Ootohere]

@magicpants  If you had coolant at 108 degrees C what was the indicated oil temperature?

[magicpants]

Wasn't monitored at the time. I'll find out.

 

Is 108 too high?

[Ootohere]

Yes if the coolant was at 108*oC  however you were reading it and the not accurate gauge was showing near the 90*oC.

 

The coolant needs to be bringing the oil temp down when it gets up into the 100 plus.

[magicpants]

That's good to know. I'll try again tomorrow morning. Thanks

[magicpants]

OK, so here are the results from my monitoring this morning:

 

08:25 - coolant = 17C, oil = 16C - Engine off

08:25-08:30 - coolant = 76C, oil = 26C - IDLE

08:30-08:35 - coolant = 86C, oil = 39C - IDLE

08:35-08:40 - coolant = 102C, oil = 67C - IDLE & REVS

08:40-08:45 - coolant = 105C, oil = 97C - IDLE & REVS

08:45-08:50 - coolant = 107C, oil = 105C - IDLE & REVS

08:50-08:53 - coolant = 105C, oil = 105C - IDLE & REVS

08:53-08:55 - coolant = 108C, oil = 101C - IDLE

08:55-09:14 coolant = 107C, oil = 107-109C - DRIVE (oil didn't exceed 109 and did dip down to 107 on slow sections)

09:14-09:20 - coolant = 108C, oil = 100C - IDLE

Scan - no errors

09:20-09:23 - coolant = 105C, oil = 98C - IDLE

 

Values taken from OBDEleven realtime.

Coolant gauge on car stayed at 90C once up to temp.

[magicpants]

Does this look ok?

[varaderoguy]

All looks absolutely fine.  I would try and see if you can get underneath the car make sure there are no weeping from the coolant pump to make sure you aren't loosing it from there.