Hi

 

I finally got a new engine for my oil burning old one.

 

i was unable to get the Haynes manual, but i got another from a link i got in this page.

but i am unable to find the tightening torque for the injectors and the heaters, since i am using the old from the old engine.

5 hours ago, Kharl said:

Hi

 

I finally got a new engine for my oil burning old one.

 

i was unable to get the Haynes manual, but i got another from a link i got in this page.

but i am unable to find the tightening torque for the injectors and the heaters, since i am using the old from the old engine.

 

Glow plugs seem to be 15 Nm.....

 

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/engine/1.9/47_sdi_engine_fuel_injection/ignition_system_glow_plug_system/testing_preheating_system/checking_glow_plugs/

Injector clamp bolts are 20 Nm.....

 

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/engine/1.9/47_sdi_engine_fuel_injection/fuel_preparation_system_diesel_injection/disassembling_and_assembling_the_injection_pump/summary_of_components/

Edited 3 August, 20214 yr by TMB

Excellent

 

I am nor going to leave the mechanics alone with my car 

Edited 3 August, 20214 yr by Kharl
Misspelling

Is this normal? 

 

The mechanic says it is too deep (the pins) and i say it is because it is a new clutch.

 

Is it too deep?

Is it true that it is too thick?

No, it looks new and unworn.

This is me against all of them.

 

They say if i leave it that way i wont be able to change gears.

 

I was looking everywhere which is the thickness of the clutch disk  because they say that clutch is too thick

You need to mark up the photo with the item they are referring too as the only "pin" I can see is the pressure plate to flywheel dowel. Or are they talking about the pressure plate fingers.

 Do they just say "the clutch" is too deep, or are they more specific - clutch disc, clutch pressure plate - did they put the new/old pressure plate side by side, the only real issue in depth may be down to wear on the pressure plate fingers or even pressure plate face, but this would be negelegable.

Those pins (the diaphragm? )

Is what they say they are too deep.

The repaired clutch disc is 8.2mm and the new original is 7.7mm

 

Could that be the cause? 

23 minutes ago, Kharl said:

The repaired clutch disc is 8.2mm and the new original is 7.7mm

 

Could that be the cause? 

I went to a clutch and brake repair shop they test the clutch and they say it is working good

 

https://youtu.be/NStfUwsccjg

3 hours ago, Kharl said:

The repaired clutch disc is 8.2mm and the new original is 7.7mm

 

Could that be the cause? 

 

0.5mm will not be a problem.

 

Those pins are called spring fingers and together they make up a diaphragm spring which acts on the pressure plate, how can they be too deep?

1 hour ago, sepulchrave said:

 

0.5mm will not be a problem.

 

Those pins are called spring fingers and together they make up a diaphragm spring which acts on the pressure plate, how can they be too deep?

Ok, i got it.

Check this please

 

 

Is this tight enough? 

11 minutes ago, Kharl said:

Is this tight enough? 

 

No, not really.

1 hour ago, sepulchrave said:

 

No, not really.

Alright 

Good morning! 

 

 

I accidentally broke twice the plastic T used in the cooling system.

 

Can i use the metal one instead? (I think it is brass.

 

No problem with corrosion electrolysis, static or that sort of things?

No, that would be fine.

7 hours ago, TMB said:

No, that would be fine.

Great, thank you. 

The engine is already installed and working, the mechanic say the pump is right but id like you to check these parameters.

 

Ok, this is my luck with these local mechanics.

 

While testing the timing belt catched a wire, and jumped one teth or two.

 

How do i lnow if i got a damaged valve?

Is the asy engine a non interference engine?