Hi,

 

My Skoda Fabia vrs just randomly cut out on me yesterday, no warning lights no nothing!!!! scanned it with a cheap generic code reader and got "P0727" Whilst trying to start the glow plug would flash and rev counter didn't move. Upon clearing  code and taking key out and restarting car it started but flashing glow plugs remained along with eml light. Long story short had to repeat this process twice to get home..... After a bit of research its all pointing to crankshaft sensor????? 

 

So Question is...........

Would you agree crankshaft sensor?

it looks difficult  remove due to its length and proximity to oil cooler, can it be done without removing oil cooler housing ?

Any tips and thought please share 

 

Thanks In Advance,

 

Ade

Check the wiring for continuity first, the loom gets fragile with age and vibration.

Would you mind explaining in a bit more detail? ive purchased a replacement just in case 

 

50 minutes ago, Whit3Knight said:

Would you mind explaining in a bit more detail? ive purchased a replacement just in case 

 

 

Check the wiring from the CPS back to the ECU, your ECU will be using the cam position in lieu of a plausible signal from the CPS.

7 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Check the wiring from the CPS back to the ECU, your ECU will be using the cam position in lieu of a plausible signal from the CPS.

Thanks for the reply, im not great with cars....... So am i best disconnecting the plug near the oil filter housing and testing that ?

5 minutes ago, Whit3Knight said:

Thanks for the reply, im not great with cars....... So am i best disconnecting the plug near the oil filter housing and testing that ?

 

You should find an auto electricians and take it to them if the part you've bought doesn't fix it, most garages are TERRIBLE at electrics unless it's their speciality.

@sepulchrave can it be fitted without removing oil cooler as it looks awfully tight?

 

No the crank sensor fitting normally involves at least dropping the large (32mm from memory) bolt that goes through the BOTTOM of the oil cooler and manipulating it out of the way. Don't disconnect the water pipes and have something to catch the mug full of oil that will drop out. Budget for the lower two oil cooler seals as well to be on the safe side.

2 hours ago, Lofty said:

No the crank sensor fitting normally involves at least dropping the large (32mm from memory) bolt that goes through the BOTTOM of the oil cooler and manipulating it out of the way. Don't disconnect the water pipes and have something to catch the mug full of oil that will drop out. Budget for the lower two oil cooler seals as well to be on the safe side.

Lofty thanks it is 32mm and looks almost identical to the one on top of I’m right it’s very tight in there 

@Lofty just wanted to say a personal thanks!!!!!! swapped out the sensor yesterday, and as i'm no mechanic but adapt a have a go mentality...... The information and a bit of research was invaluable and now the cars running again! I am going to write a short "How too guide" just on the off chance someone stumbles  across this thread as i couldn't find a whole lot of information about it. The advice of getting the seals was absolutely spot on! Cheers Lofty 😃 ill be sure to check out project dafodil as i'm slowly improving mine.

Quick update.......... And a basic "How too guide" (Background) i'm no mechanic but will have a go, and im not used to working on skodas either........

 

Tools needed;

32mm socket 

socket extenstion 

3/8 ratchet

container to catch oil (500ml

New top and bottom seals 

Torque wrench

New Crankshaft sensor

9mm multi head socket

t25 torx bit

 

Jack car up or use stands (i used stands stands) either way ensure its safe and secure!

Remove under tray (if its in place) with the t25 torx bit and pull towards rear of car, store under tray and screws safely.

Locate bottom of oil filter, behind radiator and more or less central to your view there is a 32mm plastic nut identical to top of oil filter housing.

Gently unscrew this and let the oil slowly drain out for a few minutes, then return and remove, it comes out quite easily, don't remove any other pipes just this.

Next move the metal cooler element to the side and from the top you can unscrew to 9mm nut securing the crankshaft sensor.

Wiggle it out gently, raise the removed sensor and wire following it up to the connector this just clips out at end, plug new sensor in and route wires.

Clean around the sensor housing and install the new sensor and retaining nut.

Now move your attention to the filter screw you removed clean with a lint free rag or paper towels ensuring spotlessly clean, pick the old seal out gently (This is the smooth one) apply some fresh engine oil and secure in place. Now move to the oil cooler metal part and remove the other seal that has rubber seating holes, again clean/lubricate with fresh engine oil and locate the holes onto the raised pins (There is no orientation) as long as its in place and secure.

Go back under the car and raise the metal cooler part to the oil cooler housing, looking from directly underneath you can see when its in place, not gently put the the shaft in whilst holding the metal cooler part in situ. can be a tad fiddly but you will get there. Hand tighten it up then torque to 20nm

remove car from stands etc and on level ground check oil levels and replace as needed.

Clean all around where you have worked including pipes (This makes spotting any new leaks easier) clear any old codes, take for a test drive 20-30 mins on return jack car up check for leaks around area you was working in then replace under tray when you are confident you have no leaks

 

hope the helps someone, please don't slate we all have to start somewhere..... Anything i have missed please feel free to correct me

Hey glad you've got it sorted, i forgot to mention that the Crank Sensor fixing bolt is an odd one, 9mm multi point socket, difficult to tell what they are as quite often they are all corroded up. The sensors themselves often take a fair bit of effort to get out as they are a tight fit, especially after 15 years or so!!!

 

 

21 hours ago, Lofty said:

Hey glad you've got it sorted, i forgot to mention that the Crank Sensor fixing bolt is an odd one, 9mm multi point socket, difficult to tell what they are as quite often they are all corroded up. The sensors themselves often take a fair bit of effort to get out as they are a tight fit, especially after 15 years or so!!!

 

 

yes fair amount of wiggling (non technical term) but the car is up and running......... Checked out your project and was left envious and in awe its amazing what you have done!!!!!!!

Sorry to resurrect an old thread. I'm currently trying to change my crank sensor. Oil cooler is out the way, bolt is out but the sensor won't come out. It turns left & right about 45degrees or so as it hits the surroundings.

No amount of wiggling has shifted it. Is there a trick to it or is even more persistence & swearing necessary?

Turns out it is a 5 minute break, more persistence, a bit more swearing & the threat of turning to briskoda.net that does the trick.!

Also as it may help someone, my upper oil cooler seal looked like the one in the picture, not the round o-ring with locating ears on the i side more normally seen in threads about it. I think they are interchangeable though as long as the diameter & thinkness is the same.

If you are worried your new seal looks like my old one & very different to the new one, don't be.

That old style was discontinued & replaced to the "new" style 21 years ago. (Not sure you can call it "new" style still 21 years later!)