In all seriousness, would any of you disconnect from the battery or use the A button. They seem the same to me

 

14 minutes ago, Mikerp said:

In all seriousness, would any of you disconnect from the battery or use the A button. They seem the same to me

 

They're not the same, disconnecting from the battery is disconnecting that part of the system where as pushing the button is just switching off the start/stop (until you switch the "ignition" off, usually when you park up, and back on again usually when you next use the car).

 

Edited 29 October, 20214 yr by nta16

That version would not work up here today, far too much rain around!

So It is better just to turn off at the A button? 

Just now, Mikerp said:

So It is better just to turn off at the A button? 

I've given what I'd do earlier so will leave others to give their answers to this.

 

Remind me please

I'd be tempted to disconnect at battery if the car went into limp home mode again, but of course that might be too late to help or your wife might not feel confident doing so especially if she has to limp the car through traffic looking for somewhere safe to pull over to lift the bonnet to do so.

 

Thing is doing this doesn't find or resolve the issue only firefighting but on the other hand disconnecting at the battery may prevent the car going into limp home mode if the problem is within the start/stop, there's not enough information to be sure of anything which is why a thorough investigation of any proper scan is required to be sure that you don't get limp home mode again.

 

Looking at any results could lead to the resolve, something that doesn't seem significant could be.  Some errors may not be recorded because they are below the threshold of the computer program's parameters but as I keep putting error message on Infotainment and going into limp home mode must have related error codes (surely?).

 

Edited 29 October, 20214 yr by nta16

No nothing. They are calling me today hopefully regarding the Technician falsifying the Inspection report. It has been passed onto their After Care Manager. I will speak to him about this.

Well I think the term is "escalate", ask how you can "escalate" the lack of resolve and sorting of your start/stop and limp home mode, they will have a "procedure", do they still have "Dealer Principal", what about Skoda UK (though they'll probably just say go to the Dealer totally missing the point that you've already done that).

 

As for the report as I put before I'd guess it'd be explained as a typo, or error.  I've no idea of job titles and what they might mean but some of the ticklists we've had have shown a signature for "Person responsible" which makes more sense to me, it's only old fashioned snobbery that thinks a job title means a higher level of service.

 

I will ask how to escalate. The Technician's name is the same on both inspections. Because they were only 4 weeks apart he assumed they were still the same. His Mistake

I didn't mean escalate the tread depth thing but the main issue.

 

I don't know but wonder if it just a done thing to help get through the work, possibly too much is expected of some employees and/or they're not given the right amount of time to all the things they're asked to do and it's an unwritten agreement that they need to cut corners to get the cars through.  Having dealt with the motor trade I can say some in it view customers as something they've just trodden in.  Not all there are some people with good attitudes but often they move on as they don't fit in or can put up with it.

 

Very much the English problem, English management and company owners, this remained the problem even if you went to the very or much more reliable Japanese cars the English dealerships, Lexus dragged up the luxury marques when they first set up in the UK but that was decades back and Lexus extended their range of cars widely.

I know what you meant

2 hours ago, Mikerp said:

So It is better just to turn off at the A button? 

 

Yes, especially in your case where you are still involving the dealership with solving this issue, doing it any other way would probably annoy them and maybe end your current episode with them, either from them or you.

The saga continues. This problem has happened twice while my wife was driving over the last couple of months at this point ignore the photo's. Both time Skoda could not find a problem on their Supa Dupa diagnostic machine. They told me to monitor it. Anyway this morning I start up the car and the EPC stayed on (photo 1) and it started to shudder (coil I thought to me self). Anyway I went into vehicle status and it said (photo 2) Error stop start system. I tried to press the button underneath for info but nothing opened. Just at the time the engine management light (photo 3 ) came on. Then the EPC light went out but the engine management light stayed on. Great I thought I can now attach my reader This is what it brought up (photo 4) 2 codes found although only one showed up. I pressed the enter button and this popped up (photo 5). I then pressed enter for the top message 7E8 Engine and this error showed up (photo 6) I turned the engine off to stop it vibrating and when I turned it back on again both the EPC and engine management lights stayed off. I went straight to the Skoda dealer who told me that they could only scan it when the engine management light was on and that the code meant nothing as it could be one of many things. This happens about every 6 weeks and they wanted me to leave the vehicle with them to see if the fault occurs while they have it. I declined as I need the car so I booked it in at the garage I usually use. Any Thoughts please.

" it started to shudder (coil I thought to me self). "

 

From the code recorded by your code reader it looks like your hunch was correct.

 

The fault code is indicating either the coil is faulty or the electrical connector or wiring has a poor connection.

 

I'm assuming coil D is coil No4 which I believe would be the one furthest from the flywheel.

 

I would inspect the electrical connector to coil 4 & check for loose wires or burning on the connector.

Perhaps check all 4.

 

If nothing suspicious found, I would change the coil pack, they aren't usually very expensive.

Thanks for that, but tj=his is an intermittent fault. It happened first on October 1st and then again on October 28th. Apparently with this car when you turn off the engine it resets and wipes any code until it appears later down the line. This is happening every 4 or 5 weeks not every day. 

Just thinking if it was a misfire wouldn't it say on the info for the code misfire cylinder D (4)? I cannot swap the coils as it only happens every couple of weeks not every day.

Online it is coil pack 4 also mentions short to ground could that be a wire or the pack it's self?

The fault code shown by your reader specifically says " Ignition Coil Primary Circuit Low " which could be either a wiring fault to that coil or the coil itself.

 

Check the plug-in connection to the coil as I mentioned above.

 

The coil itself could also be intermittently going short circuit internally due to heat.

 

If you swapped the coil for No3, then checked the code reader when it next failed you would know if it was a wiring fault or a faulty coil.

 

 

Thanks for the suggestion of swapping the coils, it only happens every month or so and it is going to the garage on the 20th, but probably won't hurt It happened again before the garage. Do you know of a picture of where the coils are?

I don't have a picture but it should be fairly obvious.

 

There will be 4 coils in a row on top of the engine with multi pin wiring connector to each.

 

Perhaps someone else reading this will have a picture.

Thanks

FYI 7E8 just means engine and 7E9 transmission.

 

Would don 't you let them keep your car whilst you drive their loan car.

 

Because the time between the fault is at least 4 weeks. they wouldn't take it for drives everyday like we do. I am just amazed they cannot diagnose the fault

As I said earlier I am taking it to my go to garage. I don't imagine they will get any codes as it resets every time you turn the car off. I will get them to change the plug and the coil pack. What about the lead?