Today I noticed bad rust on a 2008 mkII Superb that I walked past - it was bubbling through the rear of the sill near to the front of the wheel arch. On checking my 2014 all looks OK as yet but I've noticed a gap in the wheel arch liner in that area which will allow crud to get in - I will now check it out and rustproof etc. I've also heard of potential rust issues around the rear number plate lights - again mine ok at the moment.

I already clean out wheel arches and wipe in Owatrol oil annually and have treated suspension components with the same.

 

My question is - as the mkII ages what are the future rust trouble areas that might be worth some preventative work to preserve?

 

 

Edited 10 October, 20214 yr by bigjohn

54 minutes ago, bigjohn said:

Today I noticed bad rust on a 2008 mkII Superb that I walked past - it was bubbling through the rear of the sill near to the front of the wheel arch. On checking my 2014 all looks OK as yet but I've noticed a gap in the wheel arch liner in that area which will allow crud to get in - I will now check it out and rustproof etc. I've also heard of potential rust issues around the rear number plate lights - again mine ok at the moment.

I already clean out wheel arches and wipe in Owatrol oil annually and have treated suspension components with the same.

 

My question is - as the mkII ages what are the future rust trouble areas that might be worth some preventative work to preserve?

 

 

On my '09 with almost 290k km there's a couple pretty bad rust areas.

 

On the front fender right at the front, above the headlight.

 

On the lowest part of the front fender where it meets the front door.

 

On the rear fender where it meets the plastic rear bumper. I've been told its caused by the bumper moving a bit and rubbing on the metal fender.

 

Theres also rust spots above the windshield from rockchips. Although, those are caused by the previous owners not fixing them with touch-up paint before them rusting.

 

Hope this helps.

You be surprised how much muck etc gets behind the wheel liners 

Took my fronts out after finding loads of leafs while I removed the mud flap when machine polishing the car.

The wife’s Fabia Vrs was unbelievable, got a shock a the amount behind them.

maybe worth removing them every now and then 

15 hours ago, SkeidaFin said:

 

On the lowest part of the front fender where it meets the front door.

 

 

Thanks, just looked on mine there is a good collection of leaves etc in this area although still looking rust free thus far. Time to remove front and rear wheel arch liners to clean out and treat with Owatrol etc

 

Now I've started looking further - on my facelift there are no drain hoes along the sills - not good if you ever get water ingress anywhere. Likewise there are no drain holes on the bottom of the twin door. 

 

Except for suspension components my 2014 seems to be rust free - just wanting to keep it that way. With the car market as it is at the moment I might be in for the long hall with this one  - oh and I rather like it. I didn't used to worry so much as my annual mileage was so high - times have changed.

 

 

Edited 11 October, 20214 yr by bigjohn

6 hours ago, Snapper1725 said:

You be surprised how much muck etc gets behind the wheel liners 

 

 

You're not kidding, pulled back wheelarch liners today to have a look see and Houston....

 

Fortunately below that built-in garden it was just gleaming silver paint. I suspect if it had been left a couple of years that wouldn't have been the case. I can only presume the plenum chamber drains through this area - hence the leaves etc..

 

Before and after shots of one wheelarch, I decided Dinitrol was the poison of choice to protect and whilst I was at it treated boot lid(inc around numberplate lights), bonnet and door bottoms as well. Fortunately the only rust encountered was a small stone chip sorted with Kurust + touch-up brush.

 

Edited 11 October, 20214 yr by bigjohn

14 hours ago, bigjohn said:

 

You're not kidding, pulled back wheelarch liners today to have a look see and Houston....

 

Fortunately below that built-in garden it was just gleaming silver paint. I suspect if it had been left a couple of years that wouldn't have been the case. I can only presume the plenum chamber drains through this area - hence the leaves etc..

 

Before and after shots of one wheelarch, I decided Dinitrol was the poison of choice to protect and whilst I was at it treated boot lid(inc around numberplate lights), bonnet and door bottoms as well. Fortunately the only rust encountered was a small stone chip sorted with Kurust + touch-up brush.

 

Exactly what mine was like 

I think this is quite a big issue on modern cars as they get older. When I got my superb one of the first things I did was remove the 4 wheel arch liners, clean the metal behind them and apply a thick layer of waxoyl. Whilst I was in there I also sprayed the inside of the front wings, especially where the mud builds up. My old mk2 fabia had the issue where it was rusting quite a bit behind the liners when it was 10 years old.

43 minutes ago, fabia88 said:

I think this is quite a big issue on modern cars as they get older. When I got my superb one of the first things I did was remove the 4 wheel arch liners, clean the metal behind them and apply a thick layer of waxoyl. Whilst I was in there I also sprayed the inside of the front wings, especially where the mud builds up. My old mk2 fabia had the issue where it was rusting quite a bit behind the liners when it was 10 years old.

 

I've sort of ignored rust protection with modern galvanised cars especially when I've been driving large annual mileages commuting for a few decades and finding cars were mechanically cream crackered before any major body issues would bite me. Now I've sort of retired (thanks Covid!) it's back on my radar,

 

Waxoyl is good stuff if applied correctly but the carrier is paraffin that seems to vanish and can leave blobs of Waxoyl sitting on top of crispy rust and it doesn't run well between seems into pits etc. It is also prone to being washed away if applied in areas that will be exposed to water etc afterwards.  Back in the mists of times I've restored or repaired many a car - I remember working on a 1973  Volvo 144 that had been well looked after by it's previous owners but still developed rust holes at the rear of the sills near the rear wheel arches but inside the sill section. I wish I'd photographed the section of sill I cut out - it was a cross section of perfect sill at the top down to badly rusted (rust laminates!) at the bottom with a huge amount of blobby Waxoyl sitting above the rust laminates. 

 

Afterwards restoring other cars I had much more success "splattering in" Warm Waxoyl mixed with with clean engine oil which oozed and soaked into any remaining rust and seams and lasted the test of time. Latterly I've found Dinitrol works really well without the messing around - although I'm a fan of Owatrol oil on externally facing parts/panels. 

Edited 12 October, 20214 yr by bigjohn

+1 for Owatrol oil.

On 11/10/2021 at 12:59, bigjohn said:

 

 

Now I've started looking further - on my facelift there are no drain hoes along the sills - not good if you ever get water ingress anywhere. Likewise there are no drain holes on the bottom of the twin door. 

 

 

After I found out that my old previous 2003 mkI Superb has just badly failed it's MOT re body rot ( looking like it's been caused by trapped water in the sills) -  I decided to re examine preserving mine a bit more so I investigated the sills on my mkII. No drains or bungs to speak of along the full length but I have found drain channels at low level front and rear behind the wheel arch liners accessible by removing a bolt or two. I'm glad I found this as on one side the rear drain channel was blocked. Fortunately no evidence of water or rot thus far. I've liberally sprayed DINITROL ML PENETRATOR WAX using the extension spray tube inserted into drain channels each end - it's made a right mess but it seems to have done the job.

 

On a mkII it's really worth checking the front and rear sill drains - and clear out if blocked!

 

 

 

Edited 19 April, 20224 yr by bigjohn