How to change the oil on a DSG6 (DQ250) gearbox

[Bap33]

On 19/03/2024 at 06:21, rbhelle said:

Probably one of the best tutorials in here. So many thanks!

Happy, if it helped you.  

[Marcii]

On 31/10/2021 at 01:59, Bap33 said:

Hi all,

 

As many VAG cars, my Superb Mk3, is fitted with a DSG6 (DQ250) gearbox.

Here is a tutorial to change its oil and filter on your own. You'll probably tell me: What's the point with it? Just have a look on Google or YouTube and you'l find plenty of them!

That's true, but having done this exercise, I could see that it is very rare to have all information in a single tutorial. I will therefore try to be as exhaustive as possible.

 

Here a list of some Skoda models also DSG6 equipped (I nevertheless let you check on your own, since depending on engine type or MY, some may be DSG7 fitted⚠️ instead of DSG6) ! 

- Octavia 2

- Yeti

- Kodiaq

- Superb 2

- Superb 3
 

First of all, here is the DQ250 gearbox:

We're going to focus on the following items:

#17: Filter housing - Tightening torque : 20Nm

#18: O-ring - P/N N910 845 01 (normally sold with the filter)
#19: Oil filter - P/N 02E 305 051C

#26: Oil pipe - Tightening torque: 3Nm

#27: Seal ring - P/N N 043 089 2 (normally sold with the sealing plug)

#28: Sealing plug - P/N N902 154 04 - Tightening torque: 45Nm

Not shown on this pic: DSG Oil - P/N G 052 182 A2 - 6l
 

- Difficulty : 2

- Time needed : approx. 2h

- Number of person needed : 1

- Necessary tools :

¤ VCDS software (or similar, To be confirmed)

¤ 24mm socket

¤ 8mm and 14mm Hex

¤ Torx 25 and 45

¤ Ratchet or classic wrenches for disassembly

¤ Torque wrench(es) to apply specified torques (3 / 20 / 45 Nm)

¤ Short and intermediate extensions for ratchet or torque wrenches to enable easier access to screws

¤ Small flat screwdriver

¤ Filling hose VAS6262

¤ Wooden toothpick

¤ Small fork

¤ Slip joint pliers

¤ Oil drip tray

¤ Twine (about 80cm long) or an old metallic hanger (wire one)

¤ Wide masking tape

¤ Rags

¤ Lifting means

 

Concerning VAS6262, you can find one on numerous website at various prices. Without switching to a much more expensive pump model, I suggest taking a filling hose with a 1/4 turn shut-off valve close to the adapter on the can side. These ones are less widespread but still at affordable price and of course easier to use, since you can work without being 'showered' with oil.

I've chosen this one on toolstogo-uk.com 

 

https://www.tools2go-uk.com/13664247/gear-oil-filling-hose-for-vag-dsg?g…=&Lng=en

 

Dealing now with the DSG oil kit, you really have to be careful on the kit content ⚠️.

Indeed some kits only content DSG oil and oil filter, but no sealing plug nor seal ring! ⚠️

Warning: Prices can really be different from a website to another (starting form 90€ up to ~200€ !)

Chose the right one!  

 

After hours of searches and checks, I finally bought the Febi-Bilstein kit, which can be found on autodoc.co.uk for 100€-ish

 

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/febi-bilstein/15821763?search=FEBI BILSTEIN Transmission oil change kit (171762)

It effectively contains:

- 6l of gearbox oil

- DSG oil filter (#19) and its O-ring (#18)

- Sealing plug (#28) and 2 seal rings (#27). By the way, I still don't understand why 2 rings?🤔

 

Note: I did not take time to ask for OEM spare parts prices by my local dealer.

 

Step #0 : Preparation

 

You need to lift the car high enough to get under the car and to get enough space to move your arms comfortably around the gearbox.

Note: Though you've lifted the car, it needs to remain horizontal to make a proper filling with right oil level (see step 7).

 

Step #1 : Air system removal

 

Start with removing the air box. You first have to remove the 2 T25 Torx screws (#1), then unclip the cover on the rear face (#2) and lift it by rocking it as shown by arrow to avoid breaking the 2 lugs at the front side of the cover (#3). Finally simply push to the rear to release the lugs (#3).

 

 

You now have to unclip the 2 lugs, where the 2 torx screws you have just removed where tightened (#1). Be careful for this step, since these 2 lugs may break. I've seen 1 or 2 pics of broken lugs on this forum. ⚠️

Then, you need to push the airbox backwards, so that its front side can 'rip' other the bonnet slam panel. Then unclip the hose (#3) and with a rocking motion back and forth, release the front side so that the airbox can be fully removed. However, do not hesitate to put one hand on the back of airbox to be able to pull forwards more easily (#4) and take the airbox out, which is quite large.

 

 

This being done, you need to remove the air filter housing. This is simpler. Start with unplugging the small hose (#2) at the air filter housing outlet and unplug the air flow meter connector (#3). ⚠️Be careful: There's a small grey latch on the connector (if equipped) to unlock before pulling the connector off, otherwise it won't come out or you risk ripping it off.

 

Now, remove the metal collar (#4) on the large air hose downstream the air flow meter. Use a slip joint plier for this.

 

You can now unclip the air filter housing, which is simply fitted onto 3 shock absorber pins (#1). Pull vertically upwards. Don't hesitate to pull hard (continuously and not jerkily), it holds up really well! The 3rd pawn is under the air box (dotted circle), but it comes out quite easily when the other 2 are already out.
Once the air filter hosing has been unclipped, all you have to do is disconnecting the large hose, downstream from the flow meter. Be careful to 'close' the hose to avoid any foreign object damage or even just dust towards the engine. Masking tape will do do the job!

 

Step #2 : Battery removal

To take it out, you need to remove a 13mm hex screw, which tightens a retaining bracket et holds the battery in place. This screw is on the front of the battery (#5 on previous pic).

Then remove both battery terminal covers (by lifting vertically) to access the clamping nuts of both battery terminals posts (10mm Hex socket).

 

Warning⚠️: Start disconnecting the "-" terminal post before disconnecting the "+" terminal post! For more safety, wrap them with masking tape as well if you want.

 

Battery can be then removed easily, even if it weighs!  

Step #3 : Battery fixing plate removal

 

You can now access the battery fixing plate, which is held by 2 10mm Hex screws (blue squares) and one 10mm hex nut. Sorry, the latter is out of the pic, but it can be found easily (just follow blue arrow).

 

 

Be careful don't be too quick at this step, several fixing staples are indeed attached to the battery holder. You might be tempted to cut the tie-wraps, but these are attached to small brackets, which are simply stapled (red circles) or clipped (orange circle) to the battery fixing plate. Staples can be removed by simply pushing them with a flat screwdriver, while the clip-on holder can be pulled out with a small fork.

 

There is now a small Control Unit attached to the battery fixing plate. Unclip the small lug (red circle) and pull the control unit vertically (as suggested by arrow) to remove it from the battery fixing plate:

 

The battery fixing plate can now be removed.

Step #4 : Oil draining 

 

You can finally access the DSG oil filter housing:



A 24mm hex socket is necessary to remove it. Once done, protecting the filter location against foreign object damage or dust is necessary. Aluminium foil will do the job. 

FYI, here is the difference between a new filter and a filter with 60,000 km on the clock.

 

Now remove the sealing plug with the 14mm Hex. 


 

Once done, the oil flow will be very thin, due to the oil pipe.





 

Remove the oil pipe, using a 8mm Hex. After that, the oil flow is more important.



Step #5 : Oil filter replacement

Once the gearbox is empty, you can put back in place:

- The Oil pipe (still using the 8mm Hex. Tightening torque = 3nm). If you don't have a torque wrench complying with such a low range. Take it easy!

Just to give an idea, it is roughly the same order of magnitude as for closing a jam jar lid. (Sorry, this is the only simple image I found quickly ...). Well just keep in mind, it's light !!

- The new DSG oil filter (don't forget to moisten the O-ring in its hole)

- The new O-ring on the filter housing (don't forget to moisten this one too)

- The filter housing, which must be tightened at 20 Nm (with the 24mm Hex socket)

Step #6 : Reassembly

 

Steps #1 and #2 can be processed in the reverse order to reassemble :

- The battery fixing plate (and the small control unit)
- The Battery
- The air filter housing and the hoses
- The airbox.

Step #7 : Oil filling

 

The filling hose can now be screwed in the sealing plug thread


 

At the other end, donc forget to shut the 1/4 turn valve, before screwing it onto the oil can. To make it easier, you can attach the can to the bonnet with a 80cm long twine or an old metal hanger (wire one), that you can shape to transform it as a can holder.

 

If you want to fill the gearbox faster, you just need to make a little hole in the can bottom (now upside down ) to enable air getting in the can. Of course, don't forget to open the 1/4 turn valve. http://img.xooimage.com/files1/b/e/c/whistle-1bb1.gif
You have to fill approximately 5,5l. Once again, don't forget to shut the 1/4 turn valve upon each oil can change http://img.xooimage.com/files1/b/e/c/whistle-1bb1.gif.  

Warning: Do not make a hole in 6th can, otherwise there could be some side effects... http://img.xooimage.com/files1/3/e/0/33-2bc7.gif

 

When the 6th can is half empty, shut the 1/4 turn valve, remove the can from the filling hose. Put now the free end of the filling hose into the dip tray.

 

You can now open the 1/4 turn valve to start adjusting the oil level

Step #8 : Oil level adjustment

 

⚠️ Now, start the engine and keep your foot pressing the brake pedal.

 

Move the gear lever in accordance with the following sequence:

P to R, wait 3s

R to N, wait 3s

N to D, wait 3s 

D to S, wait 3s

S to D, wait 3s

From this point, most other tutorial suggest getting back directly to P. I personally rather got back step by step, still waiting 3s after each step. 

 

Once back to P, you can remove your foot from the brake pedal, but keep the engine idling.

 

Now, connect your VCDS cable and select the gearbox controller (02 Auto Trans):



Once in the gearbox controller menu, there are 2 options:

 

1) Either get into "08 Meas. Blocks". then in the new window, get into "Group 019" and check the Temperatur cell of "ATF (Auto Tranmission Fluid)" parameter.

This is at least what I've found in several other tutorials. But though owning an official VCDS cable, the "08 Meas. Blocks" is greyed on mine. (may be my Micro-CAN version starts reaching its limits). Hence I had to use option #2 below.

 

2) Or get into "Adv. Meas. Values" menu:

 

From this point, type "trans" in the search cell to find all parameters related to the gearbox.

In the results list, tick "ATF temperature - Transmission fluid temperature":



Now with the engine still idling, just wait for the oil temperature to get between 35 and 45°C. It may take several minutes. Be patient.  

 

When oil temperature is close to 35°C, you can remove the filling hose completely. Don't worry temperature is increasing really slowly. The oil flow from the oil pipe starts decreasing.

 

Once the oil temperature is within the 35-45°C range, you can observe that a slight amount of oil flows out via the overflow tube every 30 seconds, independent of the oil level. This is caused by oil pulses, which cool down the coupling. According to workshop manual, this oil quantity is not a criterion to determine the correct oil level. Therefore, they must not be taken into account when assessing oil level.

 

You can now screw back the sealing plug (with 14mm Hex). Tighten it at 45Nm. 

From this point, you only need to stop the engine, disconnect your VCDS cable and put the soundproof housing back in place under the engine, and... That's it!  
 

Well, non counting the specific tools, you've just saved ~200€!  
 

Note: I'd also like to write special Thanks to @J.R., who helped me to translate some technical words I was missing!  Much appreciated.👍
 

_

the procedure is the same for skoda octavia 3 vrs 2.0 tsi 2018 Dq250 02e??
and I also want to ask before changing the oil, must the oil be heated to 35-40 degrees and then replaced??? or can it be done after the car has been in the garage for 1 night???
and then after it is replaced and all the procedures are done and when the temperature reaches 35-40 you do the level right??

on dq500 0bh vw tiguan 2018 this was the procedure
you heat up the oil 35-40 change all...and when the new oil reaches 35-40 you do the level

[rbhelle]

6 minutes ago, Marcii said:

the procedure is the same for skoda octavia 3 vrs 2.0 tsi 2018 Dq250 02e??
and I also want to ask before changing the oil, must the oil be heated to 35-40 degrees and then replaced??? or can it be done after the car has been in the garage for 1 night???
and then after it is replaced and all the procedures are done and when the temperature reaches 35-40 you do the level right??

on dq500 0bh vw tiguan 2018 this was the procedure
you heat up the oil 35-40 change all...and when the new oil reaches 35-40 you do the level

No need to heat the oil before draining, but I would recommend you to take a drive. Much easier to drain when up to temp. Yup, whe you top up the initial filling, fire up your car, run through all the gears 10 sec each gear, just to suck all oil up and to get some temp. Should be appox 40 degrees. After that you check the level. Either ok or pump some more oil into the transmission. So yeah your procedure is correct.

[Bap33]

@Marcii

As long as your O3 is also fitted with a DQ250 gearbox, this tutorial should be applicable too. Of course there may be slight differences on the way to access the gearbox and its oil filter. But the principle will remain the same.

It's really useless to target a 35-40°C oil temp before draining oil. The only argue to heat the gearbox oil before draining is to make it more fluid so that the gearbox gets empty faster. But even if you don't go for a short drive to heat it up, it will be already quite fluid. Unless you change oil outside in a harsh winter...  

The 35-40°C target is only for a correct level. Indeed, when oil heats up, its volume expands a bit and overflows the oil pipe #26, this is why you have to reach this 35-40°C temperature range to get a correct oil level.

 

Note: Rather fill a bit more oil than necessary. All surplus oil will overflow oil pipe #26 when correct temperature range is reached.

If you don't fill enough, don't forget, that you'll have to screw the filling hose back on the drain hole, since the gearbox is not filled through a top filling hole. Not very comfortable... 

 

Edited Tuesday at 12:38 by Bap33

[Marcii]

8 hours ago, Bap33 said:

@Marcii

As long as your O3 is also fitted with a DQ250 gearbox, this tutorial should be applicable too. Of course there may be slight differences on the way to access the gearbox and its oil filter. But the principle will remain the same.

It's really useless to target a 35-40°C oil temp before draining oil. The only argue to heat the gearbox oil before draining is to make it more fluid so that the gearbox gets empty faster. But even if you don't go for a short drive to heat it up, it will be already quite fluid. Unless you change oil outside in a harsh winter...  

The 35-40°C target is only for a correct level. Indeed, when oil heats up, its volume expands a bit and overflows the oil pipe #26, this is why you have to reach this 35-40°C temperature range to get a correct oil level.

 

Note: Rather fill a bit more oil than necessary. All surplus oil will overflow oil pipe #26 when correct temperature range is reached.

If you don't fill enough, don't forget, that you'll have to screw the filling hose back on the drain hole, since the gearbox is not filled through a top filling hole. Not very comfortable... 

 

in my old Tiguan, I changed the oil 2 times... only that in the dq500 you have to let go of the oil from the mechatronic as well

[rbhelle]

15 hours ago, Bap33 said:

@Marcii

Note: Rather fill a bit more oil than necessary. All surplus oil will overflow oil pipe #26 when correct temperature range is reached.

If you don't fill enough, don't forget, that you'll have to screw the filling hose back on the drain hole, since the gearbox is not filled through a top filling hole. Not very comfortable... 

 

Used this one, very comfortable if you ask me 😉