How to change the oil on a DSG6 (DQ250) gearbox

[Bap33]

Hi all,

 

As many VAG cars, my Superb Mk3, is fitted with a DSG6 (DQ250) gearbox.

Here is a tutorial to change its oil and filter on your own. You'll probably tell me: What's the point with it? Just have a look on Google or YouTube and you'l find plenty of them!

That's true, but having done this exercise, I could see that it is very rare to have all information in a single tutorial. I will therefore try to be as exhaustive as possible.

 

Here a list of some Skoda models also DSG6 equipped (I nevertheless let you check on your own, since depending on engine type or MY, some may be DSG7 fitted⚠️ instead of DSG6) ! 

- Octavia 2

- Yeti

- Kodiaq

- Superb 2

- Superb 3
 

First of all, here is the DQ250 gearbox:

We're going to focus on the following items:

#17: Filter housing - Tightening torque : 20Nm

#18: O-ring - P/N N910 845 01 (normally sold with the filter)
#19: Oil filter - P/N 02E 305 051C

#26: Oil pipe - Tightening torque: 3Nm

#27: Seal ring - P/N N 043 089 2 (normally sold with the sealing plug)

#28: Sealing plug - P/N N902 154 04 - Tightening torque: 45Nm

Not shown on this pic: DSG Oil - P/N G 052 182 A2 - 6l
 

- Difficulty : 2

- Time needed : approx. 2h

- Number of person needed : 1

- Necessary tools :

¤ VCDS software (or similar, To be confirmed)

¤ 24mm socket

¤ 8mm and 14mm Hex

¤ Torx 25 and 45

¤ Ratchet or classic wrenches for disassembly

¤ Torque wrench(es) to apply specified torques (3 / 20 / 45 Nm)

¤ Short and intermediate extensions for ratchet or torque wrenches to enable easier access to screws

¤ Small flat screwdriver

¤ Filling hose VAS6262

¤ Wooden toothpick

¤ Small fork

¤ Slip joint pliers

¤ Oil drip tray

¤ Twine (about 80cm long) or an old metallic hanger (wire one)

¤ Wide masking tape

¤ Rags

¤ Lifting means

 

Concerning VAS6262, you can find one on numerous website at various prices. Without switching to a much more expensive pump model, I suggest taking a filling hose with a 1/4 turn shut-off valve close to the adapter on the can side. These ones are less widespread but still at affordable price and of course easier to use, since you can work without being 'showered' with oil.

I've chosen this one on toolstogo-uk.com 

 

https://www.tools2go-uk.com/13664247/gear-oil-filling-hose-for-vag-dsg?g…=&Lng=en

 

Dealing now with the DSG oil kit, you really have to be careful on the kit content ⚠️.

Indeed some kits only content DSG oil and oil filter, but no sealing plug nor seal ring! ⚠️

Warning: Prices can really be different from a website to another (starting form 90€ up to ~200€ !)

Chose the right one!  

 

After hours of searches and checks, I finally bought the Febi-Bilstein kit, which can be found on autodoc.co.uk for 100€-ish

 

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/febi-bilstein/15821763?search=FEBI BILSTEIN Transmission oil change kit (171762)

It effectively contains:

- 6l of gearbox oil

- DSG oil filter (#19) and its O-ring (#18)

- Sealing plug (#28) and 2 seal rings (#27). By the way, I still don't understand why 2 rings?🤔

 

Note: I did not take time to ask for OEM spare parts prices by my local dealer.

 

Step #0 : Preparation

 

You need to lift the car high enough to get under the car and to get enough space to move your arms comfortably around the gearbox.

Note: Though you've lifted the car, it needs to remain horizontal to make a proper filling with right oil level (see step 7).

 

Step #1 : Air system removal

 

Start with removing the air box. You first have to remove the 2 T25 Torx screws (#1), then unclip the cover on the rear face (#2) and lift it by rocking it as shown by arrow to avoid breaking the 2 lugs at the front side of the cover (#3). Finally simply push to the rear to release the lugs (#3).

 

 

You now have to unclip the 2 lugs, where the 2 torx screws you have just removed where tightened (#1). Be careful for this step, since these 2 lugs may break. I've seen 1 or 2 pics of broken lugs on this forum. ⚠️

Then, you need to push the airbox backwards, so that its front side can 'rip' other the bonnet slam panel. Then unclip the hose (#3) and with a rocking motion back and forth, release the front side so that the airbox can be fully removed. However, do not hesitate to put one hand on the back of airbox to be able to pull forwards more easily (#4) and take the airbox out, which is quite large.

 

 

This being done, you need to remove the air filter housing. This is simpler. Start with unplugging the small hose (#2) at the air filter housing outlet and unplug the air flow meter connector (#3). ⚠️Be careful: There's a small grey latch on the connector (if equipped) to unlock before pulling the connector off, otherwise it won't come out or you risk ripping it off.

 

Now, remove the metal collar (#4) on the large air hose downstream the air flow meter. Use a slip joint plier for this.

 

You can now unclip the air filter housing, which is simply fitted onto 3 shock absorber pins (#1). Pull vertically upwards. Don't hesitate to pull hard (continuously and not jerkily), it holds up really well! The 3rd pawn is under the air box (dotted circle), but it comes out quite easily when the other 2 are already out.
Once the air filter hosing has been unclipped, all you have to do is disconnecting the large hose, downstream from the flow meter. Be careful to 'close' the hose to avoid any foreign object damage or even just dust towards the engine. Masking tape will do do the job!

 

Step #2 : Battery removal

To take it out, you need to remove a 13mm hex screw, which tightens a retaining bracket et holds the battery in place. This screw is on the front of the battery (#5 on previous pic).

Then remove both battery terminal covers (by lifting vertically) to access the clamping nuts of both battery terminals posts (10mm Hex socket).

 

Warning⚠️: Start disconnecting the "-" terminal post before disconnecting the "+" terminal post! For more safety, wrap them with masking tape as well if you want.

 

Battery can be then removed easily, even if it weighs!  

Step #3 : Battery fixing plate removal

 

You can now access the battery fixing plate, which is held by 2 10mm Hex screws (blue squares) and one 10mm hex nut. Sorry, the latter is out of the pic, but it can be found easily (just follow blue arrow).

 

 

Be careful don't be too quick at this step, several fixing staples are indeed attached to the battery holder. You might be tempted to cut the tie-wraps, but these are attached to small brackets, which are simply stapled (red circles) or clipped (orange circle) to the battery fixing plate. Staples can be removed by simply pushing them with a flat screwdriver, while the clip-on holder can be pulled out with a small fork.

 

There is now a small Control Unit attached to the battery fixing plate. Unclip the small lug (red circle) and pull the control unit vertically (as suggested by arrow) to remove it from the battery fixing plate:

 

The battery fixing plate can now be removed.

Step #4 : Oil draining 

 

You can finally access the DSG oil filter housing:



A 24mm hex socket is necessary to remove it. Once done, protecting the filter location against foreign object damage or dust is necessary. Aluminium foil will do the job. 

FYI, here is the difference between a new filter and a filter with 60,000 km on the clock.

 

Now remove the sealing plug with the 14mm Hex. 


 

Once done, the oil flow will be very thin, due to the oil pipe.





 

Remove the oil pipe, using a 8mm Hex. After that, the oil flow is more important.



Step #5 : Oil filter replacement

Once the gearbox is empty, you can put back in place:

- The Oil pipe (still using the 8mm Hex. Tightening torque = 3nm). If you don't have a torque wrench complying with such a low range. Take it easy!

Just to give an idea, it is roughly the same order of magnitude as for closing a jam jar lid. (Sorry, this is the only simple image I found quickly ...). Well just keep in mind, it's light !!

- The new DSG oil filter (don't forget to moisten the O-ring in its hole)

- The new O-ring on the filter housing (don't forget to moisten this one too)

- The filter housing, which must be tightened at 20 Nm (with the 24mm Hex socket)

Step #6 : Reassembly

 

Steps #1 and #2 can be processed in the reverse order to reassemble :

- The battery fixing plate (and the small control unit)
- The Battery
- The air filter housing and the hoses
- The airbox.

Step #7 : Oil filling

 

The filling hose can now be screwed in the sealing plug thread


 

At the other end, donc forget to shut the 1/4 turn valve, before screwing it onto the oil can. To make it easier, you can attach the can to the bonnet with a 80cm long twine or an old metal hanger (wire one), that you can shape to transform it as a can holder.

 

If you want to fill the gearbox faster, you just need to make a little hole in the can bottom (now upside down ) to enable air getting in the can. Of course, don't forget to open the 1/4 turn valve. http://img.xooimage.com/files1/b/e/c/whistle-1bb1.gif
You have to fill approximately 5,5l. Once again, don't forget to shut the 1/4 turn valve upon each oil can change http://img.xooimage.com/files1/b/e/c/whistle-1bb1.gif.  

Warning: Do not make a hole in 6th can, otherwise there could be some side effects... http://img.xooimage.com/files1/3/e/0/33-2bc7.gif

 

When the 6th can is half empty, shut the 1/4 turn valve, remove the can from the filling hose. Put now the free end of the filling hose into the dip tray.

 

You can now open the 1/4 turn valve to start adjusting the oil level

Step #8 : Oil level adjustment

 

⚠️ Now, start the engine and keep your foot pressing the brake pedal.

 

Move the gear lever in accordance with the following sequence:

P to R, wait 3s

R to N, wait 3s

N to D, wait 3s 

D to S, wait 3s

S to D, wait 3s

From this point, most other tutorial suggest getting back directly to P. I personally rather got back step by step, still waiting 3s after each step. 

 

Once back to P, you can remove your foot from the brake pedal, but keep the engine idling.

 

Now, connect your VCDS cable and select the gearbox controller (02 Auto Trans):



Once in the gearbox controller menu, there are 2 options:

 

1) Either get into "08 Meas. Blocks". then in the new window, get into "Group 019" and check the Temperatur cell of "ATF (Auto Tranmission Fluid)" parameter.

This is at least what I've found in several other tutorials. But though owning an official VCDS cable, the "08 Meas. Blocks" is greyed on mine. (may be my Micro-CAN version starts reaching its limits). Hence I had to use option #2 below.

 

2) Or get into "Adv. Meas. Values" menu:

 

From this point, type "trans" in the search cell to find all parameters related to the gearbox.

In the results list, tick "ATF temperature - Transmission fluid temperature":



Now with the engine still idling, just wait for the oil temperature to get between 35 and 45°C. It may take several minutes. Be patient.  

 

When oil temperature is close to 35°C, you can remove the filling hose completely. Don't worry temperature is increasing really slowly. The oil flow from the oil pipe starts decreasing.

 

Once the oil temperature is within the 35-45°C range, you can observe that a slight amount of oil flows out via the overflow tube every 30 seconds, independent of the oil level. This is caused by oil pulses, which cool down the coupling. According to workshop manual, this oil quantity is not a criterion to determine the correct oil level. Therefore, they must not be taken into account when assessing oil level.

 

You can now screw back the sealing plug (with 14mm Hex). Tighten it at 45Nm. 

From this point, you only need to stop the engine, disconnect your VCDS cable and put the soundproof housing back in place under the engine, and... That's it!  
 

Well, non counting the specific tools, you've just saved ~200€!  
 

Note: I'd also like to write special Thanks to @J.R., who helped me to translate some technical words I was missing!  Much appreciated.👍
 

_

[Bap33]

May be this guide deserves being pinned on the fisrt page of this forum. 😉

Additionallly I’d like to insert a link in other model forums (Octi 2, Yeti, Kodiaq) since they may also be DSG6 equipped, but I don’t really know what would be the best way to do it.

If any moderator has a solution, feel free!

Edited 31 October, 2021 by Bap33

[ApertureS]

Brilliant post with all the information and can’t really go wrong!

 

only thing I’d add to it is if you are doing the work outside and it’s a bit windy, as the stream of oil starts to thin out, the wind will catch it and it will by all luck flick it all over you, the undertray, the wheels and the floor. Just be warned, I put a cardboard shield up to stop the cross winds 😂😂

[christov]

la mise à niveau du véhicule comprend l'avant et l'arrière  ( comme sur un pont )  .                                                                                                                                                                     pour la température d'huile , un thermomètre  pour enfant placé sur le dessous de boite donne la même lecture  ( si vous n'avez pas de VCDS ) j'ai vérifier la valeur est idem ..

[Bap33]

On 15/01/2022 at 18:50, christov said:

la mise à niveau du véhicule comprend l'avant et l'arrière  ( comme sur un pont ) 

Dont' worry, my car was horizontal. My wooden ramp just allow me to simultaneously get enough clearance to work under the car and compensate the slope of my park place.  

[DragosIonuts]

Hello! After the gear oil change, the gearbox feels a little bit clucki. Do you know if it needs some gearbox reset? The one that you can find in the basic settings on obdeleven in the transmissions module, maybe? 

[Bap33]

On 13/02/2023 at 07:47, DragosIonuts said:

Hello! After the gear oil change, the gearbox feels a little bit clucki. Do you know if it needs some gearbox reset? The one that you can find in the basic settings on obdeleven in the transmissions module, maybe? 

Sorry, I missed the question.

 

I´ve never heard about DSG gear box reset upon oil change. Thus, I did not do any reset on mine.

[Skiday]

If I don't have VCDS how much of a risk am I taking doing this job? If I measure the amount of oil I drained and fill up with the exact same amount surely I can't be far wrong? 

[nicknorman]

On 19/06/2023 at 18:32, Skiday said:

If I don't have VCDS how much of a risk am I taking doing this job? If I measure the amount of oil I drained and fill up with the exact same amount surely I can't be far wrong? 

I would just run the engine for a while, say 5 minutes on a hot day, 10  mins on a cold day. When I did mine on a fairly cold day, i couldn't get the temperature much above 35C and certainly nowhere near 45C no matter how long I ran it for. I think this will be more accurate than just putting back in what you took out, because it might not have been correct "at birth" and there might have been very slight leakage over the years. The difference in level from being say 5C outside the range is going to be minimal.

[Skiday]

Thanks. That sounds fair enough. I'm sure though that the oil has not been changed since manufacture as the service record book has never shown it as changed, and if you paid the dealer all that money for them to do it I would think they would be sure to tick the box when they stamp the book and the owner would be sure to check it (I certainly would anyway).

 

I notice that in the initial post of this thread by 'Bap33' he is doing the oil level check (the whole oil change in fact) with the rear wheels on the ground and the front on ramps. Surely the correct procedure would be for the car to be level just as it would be at the dealers with it on the lift? I'm sure that having the car up at the front must affect the level. I'm still not convinced that putting in the same as what came out (5.5l) can be any worse than checking the oil with the car not level.

[Skiday]

Just a side note on filling. If you don't want to go to the bother of getting a special filling tube thing that 'Bap33' used, or just don't want to fill from beneath, you can do what I did; when the filter is off and the plug is in, pour new oil into the filter holder to the top (about 200ml??), set the alarm on your phone for 2min30sec, do a bit of polishing, when the alarm goes off fill it again and so on. Eventually you'll have the oil in and the car polished!

[GreenGeorge]

18 hours ago, nicknorman said:

I would just run the engine for a while, say 5 minutes on a hot day, 10  mins on a cold day. When I did mine on a fairly cold day, i couldn't get the temperature much above 35C and certainly nowhere near 45C no matter how long I ran it for. I think this will be more accurate than just putting back in what you took out, because it might not have been correct "at birth" and there might have been very slight leakage over the years. The difference in level from being say 5C outside the range is going to be minimal.

 

Hi Nick,  I don't have anyway of seeing the gearbox oil temperature.  Could you expand a little on the process, please?  Am I right in thinking you ran the engine for a while, say 5 minutes on a hot day, 10  mins on a cold day and then removed the sump plug and allowed the excess oil to drain until it is just drips before replacing the sump plug?

[nicknorman]

9 hours ago, GreenGeorge said:

 

Hi Nick,  I don't have anyway of seeing the gearbox oil temperature.  Could you expand a little on the process, please?  Am I right in thinking you ran the engine for a while, say 5 minutes on a hot day, 10  mins on a cold day and then removed the sump plug and allowed the excess oil to drain until it is just drips before replacing the sump plug?

Well I did have VCDS so I could monitor the oil temperature, but it was a struggle to get it up to 35C (it was fairly cold in the garage). I think in the end it just about hit 35, but it wasn't going to go any higher. So for you, I would suggest the times mentioned above are adequate to get close enough to the right temperature - assuming the ambient temperature is within reason. There is after all a 10C tolerance allowed, so it can't be that critical.

And then as you say, remove the plug and let the oil drain out until it stops. Be aware that there is a process going on in the gearbox such that you will get oil spilling out every 30 secs or so, but this is to be disregarded.

The manual says this: A small amount of oil comes out of the overflow pipe every 30 seconds, regardless of the oil level. This is caused by pulsation in the cooling oil for the coupling. Such escaping oil does not indicated whether the gear oil level is adequate, so it must not be taken into account when determining the oil level.

Edited 29 June, 2023 by nicknorman

[GreenGeorge]

I wonder if an IR thermometer would work with monitoring temperature.

[nicknorman]

21 hours ago, GreenGeorge said:

I wonder if an IR thermometer would work with monitoring temperature.

Don’t see why not. The gearbox sump casing will be pretty close to the oil temperature.

[Bap33]

On 29/06/2023 at 01:11, Skiday said:

'Bap33' he is doing the oil level check (the whole oil change in fact) with the rear wheels on the ground and the front on ramps.

In fact, there is a slope where I did It. The ramps compsate this slope. Thus no worry about correct oil level.  

[DragosIonuts]

On 29/06/2023 at 10:32, GreenGeorge said:

 

Hi Nick,  I don't have anyway of seeing the gearbox oil temperature.  Could you expand a little on the process, please?  Am I right in thinking you ran the engine for a while, say 5 minutes on a hot day, 10  mins on a cold day and then removed the sump plug and allowed the excess oil to drain until it is just drips before replacing the sump plug?

Obdeleven works also

[4StringBass]

@Bap33thank you for this, really detailed and very easy to follow!  I had a 24mm socket that has a 22mm hex end on it, which allowed a 22mm ring spanner to slacken the filter housing enough to undo it by hand, without needing to take out the battery. 

 

Doing it in winter, even keeping the oil in the house before putting it in the car, it took about an hour to get the oil up to temperature.  Not a job to do if you're in a hurry.

 

I refitted the old drain bolt and crush washer to do the warm up and after the levelling draining was done, fitted to the new bolt/washer so the new washer was only being crushed once.

Edited 1 January by 4StringBass

[Bap33]

I'm glad if it helped you!

Indeed, you've just help me understandind why my oil change kit included 2 washers! 😁

Thanks a lot for this feedback! 👍

 

Edited 1 January by Bap33

[GrayedoutUK]

On 30/06/2023 at 19:00, nicknorman said:

Don’t see why not. The gearbox sump casing will be pretty close to the oil temperature.

That's what I did recently. Ran it until the hottest part of the bottom of the casing reached 35 degrees!

[dkutsarov]

Thanks, Bap33 for the comprehensive manual. Really well explained.

 

I am planning to do the DSG oil service of my new but old Octavia MK3 (with a DQ250) soon as well. I got all necessary tools but I am still not sure which oil to go for. Buying the OEM VW (G052182A2) is of course the safest bet but is it really worth the double price? I see that @Bap33 used Febi oil, which was also one of my thoughts. I see that many use the LIQUI MOLI 8100. These seen to be the only two alternatives, that I am considering. 

 

Have you guys had good experience with the cheaper oil options? Have you been using the alternative oils for long period of time (at least 2-3 DSG oil changes) and would you recommend a brand?

 

Many thanks for your comments in advance.

[Bap33]

OEM oil, is only an oil with a VAG sticker on it 😉.

Thus IMHO, as long as you chose an oil which comply with the OEM reference G052182A2, there should be minimum risk. 

[dkutsarov]

Hello all,

After some more research and reading through German forums, I found that Fuchs Titan FFL-2 (previously Pentone FFL-2) is the only VAG approved DSG oil on the market (at least for DQ 250). They apparently sell other versions for different DSGs. So I decided to get 6l off eBay for about £90. A comparable price to the Febi alternative, which is recommended but not approved by VAG.

I hope this information is useful for some of you. I hope it is not misleading, either, therefore please correct me if I am wrong.

Have a good weekend!

[rbhelle]

Probably one of the best tutorials in here. So many thanks! This was equal to what is presented in Elsa workshop manual.

2h seems to be plausible when not able to use carlift but on jackstands, mainly due to working conditions 😉

 

Did this job on my own DQ250 yesterday and used the same kit from Febi also bought on autodoc. I used a ATF pump with adapter for DSG, so saved some time there I guess. Job all done within 1h. In Norway they now quote approx 300 GBP for this job, some 350 GBP (main dealership). So definitively some bucks to save for a job easy done as DYI if one have the tools. I change DSG oil/filter every 30-35 000km (18-20 000 miles). That is 1/2 the recommended maximum mileage from main dealer. I guess it is cheaper to do it than to risk a new DSG gearbox since I use mine in cold temps and occasionally pulling a camper.

[rbhelle]

When I do similar jobs during wintertime, I drive 30min so all things are heated. The oil is also stored indoor in a warm place beforehand. So, when things have to reach a specific temp to check levels, things are already at a decent temp even if the garage has only 10-15 degrees celcius indoor. Has worked flawlessly to my needs so far. Same procedure goes with front, rear diffs and haldex as well when things have to have some temp to check levels.

Edited 19 March by rbhelle
typo again