Bap33

Awesome work! I regret we don't have any news from @ApertureS who is a Superb Mk3 Master Guru! He did similar major retrofits on his Superb Estate too. Simply stunning. He would greatly have appreciated your work, I guess. I assume @JR RS or @travs and many others would agree. @Binx1310 Considering me as a Legend is a bit too much honor. I consider myself at best an "informed amateur". My only areas of so-called expertise are general maintenance (DSG6 DQ250 and Haldex Gen5 oil replacement, brake fluid replacement, engine oil replacement) and some VCDS mods, that's it. 😉

Maybe your battery would be worth a "care treatment" with a battery charger over a complete night. Once "boosted" just check if problems vanish or keep nerving you...

As this Kodiaq seems to have an ABT kit, I would have a look on the ABT website.

Has the battery been ever changed? It may cause a lot of DTC if the average voltage gets to low, when it starts aging...

Sorry, I don’t understand why you have to wait for registration docs. 🤔 The VIN won’t change with the registration docs and that’s the only (and reliable) input that your local dealer needs to give you the complete list of PR codes. 🤷‍♂️

It should indeed. VIN gives the PR codes list and then the requested information.

Hi, I would say they are DSG7 since june 2018. The change most probably happened with the MY19. TSI272 came at this time and are probably DSG7. Not 100% sure, just guessing.

Hi, I guess, you should find answers here : and there : Both thread were "built" based on a December 2017 Superb Estate Mk3. Enjoy 😉!

Your can go for a cheap version if you're in a hurry, but if you take your time you may find a used version on ebay. My father did so for his Octy3 few years ago, and saved roughly 60% compared to a brand new one. He found it in Latvia, if I remember well. Just note down the P/N at the back of your mirror to look for the right one. The "good news" is that you don't have BSD, which would make the bill even more "spicy"... 😉

@Jim Reire: IMHO, your local dealer should be able to print the complete liste of PR codes independently from your registration docs. Mine was imported from Luxemburg to France through Germany. I didn't have any problem to get it, even though my final french registration docs were not done.

Hi, If your Kodiaq was an AWD, you should have the 2 following PR codes: G1D: Automatic transmission for AWD (so to say DSG7 type DQ381) 1X1: Four-Wheel Drive. If you go to your local dealer and ask fo the PR codes list (explaining your insurance story), they should be able to give you the complete list of PR codes of your own Kodiaq. With a FWD, your should get these 2 other PR codes: G1C: Seven-speed automatic transmission (corresponding to DSG7 type DQ380) 1X0: Front Wheel Drive I assume, this should be an evidence your insurance could rely on.

Hi, Some news to update my previous sayings, since I've replaced engine oil by myself @ 60000km. This morning, the orange oil level alarm popped up 8000km later. I've then topped-up something like 350-400ml this evening. Nothing alarming, but still about twice more than my ex Superb Estate Mk3 (TDI190 4x4).

It looks nice!

Hi, Sorry, I can't answer if it's hard to replace. I never faced this problem. Maybe it's worth searching on the web with the P/N. There are many websites selling Skoda OEM parts. You may find it for a better price...

Counterfeiting a P/N is not the hardest part for these kinds of manufacturers 😆...

Hi, It seems you can get it on its own by your local dealer. P/N is either 3V1857558 or 3V2857558. These references are for LHD and RHD, but I can't figure out, which is which. 3V2857558 should be for RHD, but I'm really not sure about that. Your dealer will find the right P/N easily based on your VIN.

IMHO, the center cap on the right doesn't seem to be an OEM one. The 'chrome part' looks too flat and the feathers don't have the right shape. I fear it's a low cost counterfeit, that you can get on Ali or Temu... but it does a good job of imitating the original in terms of corrosion... 😂

I finally dropped my Kodiaq by my local dealer yesterday. They've reinstalled the SW of the Columbus (5F Contol Unit). It seems it made everything come back to normal. The Update wen to its end. 😀

Not today, but 2 weeks ago: winter wheels deep detailed and tyres dressed, before summer storage:

Hi, I don't use this kind of tool, though it looks convenient. Just sit in front of the wheel. Put my 2 feet at 4 and 8 o'clock on the side wall on the tyre. Then : Manually screw a 1st bolt in the 6-ish o'clock area to be sure the wheel is really in contact with the hub. Screw (still manually) all remaining 4 bolts. Use Impact wrench set to 100Nm (still with my feet on the tyre to avoid the wheel turning). Lay the car down on its wheels Screw all bolts at 140Nm with a torque wrench. (Recommended torque on 19" rims if I remember well).

Hi, A quick search on ross-tech.com forum gives following possible issues: VCDS coding modifications on ABS module Wheel speed sensor calibration issue Otherwise, each time you've adjusted tyre pressure, did you reset the TPMS on the MMI? It may sounds stupid, but better start getting rid of very simple and costless things.

Hi, If this is like on Superb Mk3 (and several other VAG models). This bolt goes thru a clamp, but there's no hidden nut that you may lose, once you've removed the bolt. The nut is somehow welded to the the mounting plate. There's no other clamp. But once again, IF like on Superb Mk3.

As far as I remember, the Kodiaq Scout is mainly a question of trim and look. It doesn't have higher ground clearance compared to other Kodiaq trims, unlike Octavia Scout which is higher than other Octavia versions. Kodiaq Scout has plastic wheel arches, instead of painted ones. It comes with specific specific seat covers, front and rear bumpers may avec some aluminium parts as if they were stone guards (which they aren't). And there should be wood trims on the dashboard and door panels, instead of piano black for instance.

Hi, I would let a tire shop have a try. Hard to say whether it comes from the screw or from the hub... I also hope for you it's the screw Lesson's learnt: Use impact wrench, only to unscrew. To screw, use a simple ratchet to start, and apply the requested torque with a torque wrench.

It should be behind the right side panel in the boot. Unfortunately, as I've sold my Superb Estate Mk3 roughly 1 year ago, I can't check or don't remember where this is precisely. On Superb Estate Mk2, this was close to the rear right lights. A kind of red plastic pull tab... Maybe a look at a 'How to' dealing with something in this area may help you locating it.