Bap33

Is 2.0 TSI 4x4 already available on Superb 4 in your country? Lucky you!

I don’t think so. But I ´ll use my ‘joker’ and ask @ApertureS

I fear they’re standard white LED on MY18. Maybe it changed with FL versions. I let FL owners confirm.

It ain't a DQ200. AFAIK, DQ200 has never equipped Superb Mk3. DSG7 are actually DQ380 (or DQ381 if a 4x4 version) on Mk3. Their oil must be changed at 80000 miles instead of 40000 for most other DSGs. Additionally, I think it could be time to change your air and fuel filters. 🤔

Actually, they do. Especially the rear ones. They significantly reduce dirt projection on the bottom of the rear bumper, which has a long overhang.

Interesting... Thanks.

I would be very surprised that Skoda upgrade the 4x4 with a new generation Haldex on a model which is close to its end of life. I would better understand if Gen 6 were implemented on Superb Mk4... But who knows... 🫤 @leolito Here are the OEM references: Both Haldex pump seals kit: 0CQ598305 (approx €27 in february 2023). But my memory fooled me. Both screws to mount the Haldex pump back in place are not part of the kit mentionned above. They're sold separately. Ref N10554005. It seems they don't have to be replaced upon pump removal, since they don't figure on the invoice I've got. Nevertheless the draining plug and the filling plug DO have to be changed for new ones upon Haldex oil replacement. Draining plug: N91082701 (approx. €4.20) Filling plug : N90281802 (approx €4.80) Oil : G0600175A2 (approx. €49) Note: Haldex oil can only contains 850ml, while the quantity to fill in the Haldex is approximately 650 to 750 ml. Thus better check twice that the can is correctly filled when you buy it. Use the level indicator on the side of the can for that. It happened to me last time. Though bought by my local dealer, there were roughly 100ml missing in the brand new oil can. Also better avoid any spillage when operating.

When the Haldex pump is removed to clean its strain gauge, the workshop manual recommends to replace both pump seals as well as both retaining screws to fix the pump back in place. As far as I can remember, the price of this kit (2 seals + 2 screws) is not that cheap and the time required to remove, clean and put the pump back in place is more or less 45mn. Thus the price difference, you're pointing (between simple oil change and complete overhaul with pump cleaning) seems to make sens (at least to me).

Hi, There´s no plastic airbag badge on A-pillar trim of my L&K either, though there IS an airbag behind. There´s no reproach, only a kind advice for all who may be interested in installing a front dashcam .

It looks like you did not remove the A-pillar trim to route the cable. I hope I'm wrong. Because, it's quite risky. It may disturb airbag deployment in case of emergency. Removing the trim and fix the cable to the existing harnesses with tie-wraps would be safer. This may help:

Hi, What do you mean by roof rack? Roof bars or roof box?

This is real bullsh*t. I had the same kind of argue from Skoda France on my former Superb Estate Mk2 whose both chrom trims on back side windows had tarnished too or got "milky spots" after only 6 months since new. Errrr... Why all other chrom trims not affected then? Do you think I use a different car shampoo only for back side windows chrom trims? Customer support: I'm sorry this is the only explanation I got from tech support... 🤥 Then no warranty applied... 🙄😬 In the present case I would recommend asking the dealer to replace the trim before delivery.

I agree with @UndertheRadar, phone close to the seats amplifies a bit the actual noise level. Mine make an equivalent noise level. It's overall quite discrete.

Hi @numskull, Maybe this helps?...

@Marcii As long as your O3 is also fitted with a DQ250 gearbox, this tutorial should be applicable too. Of course there may be slight differences on the way to access the gearbox and its oil filter. But the principle will remain the same. It's really useless to target a 35-40°C oil temp before draining oil. The only argue to heat the gearbox oil before draining is to make it more fluid so that the gearbox gets empty faster. But even if you don't go for a short drive to heat it up, it will be already quite fluid. Unless you change oil outside in a harsh winter... The 35-40°C target is only for a correct level. Indeed, when oil heats up, its volume expands a bit and overflows the oil pipe #26, this is why you have to reach this 35-40°C temperature range to get a correct oil level. Note: Rather fill a bit more oil than necessary. All surplus oil will overflow oil pipe #26 when correct temperature range is reached. If you don't fill enough, don't forget, that you'll have to screw the filling hose back on the drain hole, since the gearbox is not filled through a top filling hole. Not very comfortable...

Depending on the road, the TSR can be confused by speed limits for lorries. E.g.: I know a road where speed limit for cars is 110km/h and 90km/h for lorries. But my TSR displays 90km/h though I do get 110km/h on my Columbus. It changes and gets consistent again at the next speed limit sign.

Same thing for me. On setting #3, you can hear a light/discrete buzz. The more it's silent in the car / outside, the more you can distinguish it. But once again, it's discrete...

I'm sorry, but I don't get what you intend to do with a Lane Assist system which would not "Adaptative" anymore... 🤔 Maybe I missed something.

Hi, Right button, upper part. Then scroll with the right scroll wheel and tick / untick the 'Lane assist' box in the menu. As per other functions (Blind spot, Rear traffic, etc.)

Hi, I succeeded in clearing the fault code on the « Emergency call function ». It was effectively hidden in the ‘75-Telematics’ module. 👍 But surprinsingly, the controller status was logged as OK in the very first part of the VCDS scan file… 🤔 Happy it’s back to normal status.

Hi, If you have A5 camera on the windscreen, it may be possible to retrofit this function. Nevertheless, I´ll let @ApertureS confirm, since he has a Master PhD in Skoda retrofitting. 😁

Thanks. I haven't cleared the fault code yet. I'll see if it comes back.

It was my turn today afternoon. The "Emergency call" error message popped on my dashboard today. It seems it appeared almost at the same time I've got a "Battery low voltage" warning. I don't know if there could be a link between both messages. You write, there's an internal battery. Do you know if this could be replaced as easily as a "CR2032 / CR2450" or any other similar reference battery by the owner (just as the remote control battery for instance)? Even if there are some housings to remove, is it feasible by a DIYer?... I assume this battery is loacted in the sunroof control panel, close to the "Emergency call" button... 🤔 If not related to the battery, should there be a fault code in a VCDS scan? Is which module then? Thank you very much!

Stone chips: --> delayed because of brake pads replacement, which took longer than expected... Right chrome trim on rear bumper diffusor: Back in place, quite satisfied with new varnishing result. Rear brake pad replacement: Done! Not that complicated, thanks to @ApertureS explanations to apply correct operating process with VCDS. 🙏 What was not expected was the black screen on my laptop just before applying VCDS procedure 😰. Fortunately, it was just before I started applying the procedure. I almost had cold sweat. Additionally, I did not pay enough attention, but I left ignition on (engine off of course), with driver's door open, DRL on, and radio on... And as a logical consequence, I've got following error messages, few minutes before I finished: ⚠️Warning, Low battery voltage! ⚠️ More annoying, I've also got a 2nd warning message: "Emergency call not available: workshop service required". I hope it's only due to the battery low voltage. I'll have a test drive tomorrow for the brake pads and see if battery charging will erase this error message. 🤞

Done yesterday: - Renewed piano black door trims with polish. They were so dull, they’re now shiny again. 😃 - Treated some stone chips on the bonnet and roof with touch-up pen. Quite satisfied with the result. - Varnished the right chrome trim of my sportline diffusor (had hit a stone in reverse gear to avoid being hit by a jerk driver). Fortunately, the chrome (plastic actually) was not scratched, only the varnished peeled off. Still to be clipsed back onto the car. It dried overnight after 3 layers. - Fixed a problem on my rear dashcam, which was disconnected from the video cable. - Made a housing for the rear dashcam to make it look a bit more ‘OEM’. Just need to glue it with double sides scotch tape, which I don’t currently have. Will be done at the end of the week. Things to do this afternoon: - Finish the stone chips treatment with varnish coating - Put back the right chrome trim on rear bumper diffusor - Replace rear brake pads.