2 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

Dyno calibration is incredibly finicky, engine dynos are far more accurate, however if you're planning a sequence of modifications then a rolling road can be useful as long as you use the same one throughout and you tell the operator that you are only interested in consistency for comparison and not the actual numbers themselves.

 

An operator can program a dyno to say whatever they want it to say so you can largely ignore the figures, suffice to say that 194BHP is a standard engine and the daft foam filter and the missing airbox lid aren't doing the engine any favours keeping the intake air cold and clean.

Thanks

I had heard that the dynos are not exact, my hope was, as I had no evidence/receipts of the work on  the car, but was thinking that a previous owner having swapped the exhaust and filter may have had the car mapped too,,, but still not sure, 

Either the car has not been mapped, but with the filter and exhaust is  hitting 194, or it been mapped and something is restricting it...

When looking at maps I've seen they are generally around 200 to 205 with no other mods...

The filter will be charged to either a full cold air intake or back to a standard box, not decided yet, but reliability is more important than a few bhp gain, and I've no interest in the extra noise...

The  RTMG replacement induction kit with battery relocation kit, suggested does look very good but at just shy of £500 is it worth paying if I'm not intending of upgrading and also the  ITG maxogen  probably looks like £300

I do plan on having it back on the Dyno, as there is a flat spot, 

 

20 minutes ago, Gleaden2006 said:

Thanks

I had heard that the dynos are not exact, my hope was, as I had no evidence/receipts of the work on  the car, but was thinking that a previous owner having swapped the exhaust and filter may have had the car mapped too,,, but still not sure, 

Either the car has not been mapped, but with the filter and exhaust is  hitting 194, or it been mapped and something is restricting it...

When looking at maps I've seen they are generally around 200 to 205 with no other mods...

The filter will be charged to either a full cold air intake or back to a standard box, not decided yet, but reliability is more important than a few bhp gain, and I've no interest in the extra noise...

The  RTMG replacement induction kit with battery relocation kit, suggested does look very good but at just shy of £500 is it worth paying if I'm not intending of upgrading and also the  ITG maxogen  probably looks like £300

I do plan on having it back on the Dyno, as there is a flat spot, 

 

 

See my build thread, Battery relocation can easily be achieved for buttons using an alternative tray....In fact you can actually hack the OEM battery try enough to spin it 90 degree's in you desire. I also fabricated my own air intake to establish slightly better flow as the forge was restrictive.

 

RTMG are undoubtedly the best company for a remap or aftermarket parts in the uk for these particular motors, However and the big however is that RTMG are really expensive and some of their own branded parts can be bought elsewhere as oem parts ie ,Intercoolers, Valve springs and coils packs for cheaper.

 

You wont regret remapping these cars and particularly a separate DSG(TCU) map benefits the cars massively

Edited 10 January, 20224 yr by Mickmartin

I don't know how long you've had the car you might have already dealt with what I'm going to put, or not like it, I'm relating to road only use, track stuff is an entirely different game.

 

Before going anywhere near a dyno the whole car wants to be in a good state of full whole car servicing, maintenance and repair.

 

Then run for a good while in various conditions to confirm the car is running well consistently and reliably.

 

Best tuning for the car is regular and timely full whole car servicing, maintenance and repair, without this foundation it can be difficult to progress further tuning improvements.

 

Best transferable tuning improvements are driving technique and training, usually totally overlooked for road only driving.

 

Really it's about how the car feels, or makes you feel, rather than any numbers on paper or dials.  No matter how much power you have in the correct circumstances you'll probably want a lot more but most of time you won't be able to use much of what you already have.  If you fit a power output gauge you might be surprise at how very little you need when driving on a road and you're only using a third of that figure anyway.

 

Each to their own, it keeps the economy turning over at least, good luck.

 

11 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

suffice to say that 194BHP is a standard engine and the daft foam filter and the missing airbox lid aren't doing the engine any favours keeping the intake air cold and clean.

 

My thoughts exactly. It's definitely not mapped, and if it is, it's a very s*** map in all honesty.

Edited 10 January, 20224 yr by AnnoyingPentium
Bleedin' double post.

Thank you all for you input

Greatly received

Just to update what I have done..

Fitted the GFB+ valve

New spark plugs

Reinstated the standard air box and fitted a K&N filter paper filter inside.

Had it back on the rolling road and had it tuned/adjusted for a moderate and reliable 208 bhp, smoothing out a flat spot for a better drive.

Thank you all 🙂