I am the owner of a fabia vrs 1.4, 2013, it has a replacement exhaust and an foam air filter sitting inside the old air box, with no lid on it( no name on the filter),  I've had it on a Dyno and is running 194bhp, I plan on replacing the air filter, ( got new plugs and a gfb  diverter valve any recommendations please, on the filter.

Thanks

 

 

 

 

I'd recommend sticking with OEM panels honestly. But someone with more experience in modifications and cars may be able to provide a better answer.

 Suggest you talk to someone, such as Darkside Developments, with data to back up claims rather than personal preferences. Level of tune will dictate airflow required. Also assume that no lid on airbox will result in warm air being drawn into filter, rather than cool air through original ducting up to airbox. 

Suggest you only talk to Darkside if you want to buy one of their hideously expensive products.

 

I reckon if you fit a standard element and put the lid back on the airbox you'll still have 194 BHP.

13 minutes ago, KeithCheetham said:

 Suggest you talk to someone, such as Darkside Developments, with data to back up claims rather than personal preferences. Level of tune will dictate airflow required. Also assume that no lid on airbox will result in warm air being drawn into filter, rather than cool air through original ducting up to airbox. 

 

14 minutes ago, KeithCheetham said:

 Suggest you talk to someone, such as Darkside Developments, with data to back up claims rather than personal preferences. Level of tune will dictate airflow required. Also assume that no lid on airbox will result in warm air being drawn into filter, rather than cool air through original ducting up to airbox. 

Thanks

The original ducting is still in place,and has been wrapped in foil, I assume to keep the temperature down on the air flow,  just that a ram, cone shaped  or similar air filter has been fitted, Dark side are literally 10  mins away from me, 

9 hours ago, Gleaden2006 said:

 

Thanks

The original ducting is still in place,and has been wrapped in foil, I assume to keep the temperature down on the air flow,  just that a ram, cone shaped  or similar air filter has been fitted, Dark side are literally 10  mins away from me, 

The fact that there is no lid will negate the foil wrapping - there may be some cool air through the ducting when driving but this will be mixing with warm under bonnet air. The idea of talking to someone like Darkside is to obtain info on any limitations in the induction system based on rolling road experience - as Sep advises you may add un-necessary costs but experience is better than guestimations. If you cannot locate a lid, try duct taping the opening to fully enclose the system and give maximum cool air, maybe the previous owner thought extra induction noise would give another 50BHP at the McDonalds car park bragging fest.

Either an RTMG replacement induction kit with battery relocation kit or , an ITG maxogen 

Talk to Darkside they really know ,wrapping foil is not the best idea to get the best performance you really need a egr conversion kit with metal pipes and so forth to get the full benifit in BHP

1 minute ago, Murdockman said:

Talk to Darkside they really know ,wrapping foil is not the best idea to get the best performance you really need a egr conversion kit with metal pipes and so forth to get the full benifit in BHP

You don’t need any of the above to get the full benifit in BHP , as for going to dark side development, we are talking about a petrol engine here … dark side are Diesel engine specialists, anyone in the know on this platform will say the only place to go for performance parts is RTMG a performance specialist based in Greece but has a shop and garage here in the Uk , mine is running 380BHP on standard internals with a hybrid turbocharger and water methanol injection …. 

Honestly, 178 BHP standard versus 194 BHP, 16 earth shattering BHP surely must mean the standard airbox is restricting it?

 

More likely it's the dyno that's been 'tuned'

 

Just put it back to standard for reliabilitys sake.

 

 

@Gleaden2006

Maybe you have a member from heres old car.

Maybe give a reg number or partial number, and what colour it is.  

?

Or do you know about the remap on it etc?

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/357839-fabia-vrs-estate-rolling-road-run

A standard CTHE was / is putting out more ps/Nm than a CAVE, it is just that Skoda never showed that in the C02 g/km yet SEAT did in 2013 when the Ibiza Cupra got the new engine and Engine Management, it dropped a VED group to be the same as the Polo GTI had since 2010.

The scores on the doors on PS /Nm was not changed with the Cupra but the car was quicker on the actual road and the Dyno results were better.

https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-review/seat/ibiza-cupra/first-drives/seat-ibiza-cupra-first-drive-review

 

Edited 9 January, 20224 yr by roottoot

2 hours ago, roottoot said:

@Gleaden2006

Maybe you have a member from heres old car.

Maybe give a reg number or partial number, and what colour it is.  

?

Or do you know about the remap on it etc?

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/357839-fabia-vrs-estate-rolling-road-run

A standard CTHE was / is putting out more ps/Nm than a CAVE, it is just that Skoda never showed that in the C02 g/km yet SEAT did in 2013 when the Ibiza Cupra got the new engine and Engine Management, it dropped a VED group to be the same as the Polo GTI had since 2010.

The scores on the doors on PS /Nm was not changed with the Cupra but the car was quicker on the actual road and the Dyno results were better.

https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-review/seat/ibiza-cupra/first-drives/seat-ibiza-cupra-first-drive-review

 

Hi, it is a 13 plate in grey, last numbers are UBU if that helps anyone, My initial thoughts were it had been mapped, with it having the "induction air filter" fitted and the upgraded exhaust,,,it has been on the dryno and got 194, as mentioned by others it may have been mapped but 194 with additional mods seems poor, when I have read as you mention some seem to have higher output as standard, I will do some more investigation...

Photo of filter 

Some kitten has removed the lid to try and get it to make silly noises, not for performance.

 

People fit induction kits so they can go "Bwaaarrrrrrrr" and pretend the car is faster, it's the placebo effect.

All kinds have been done. 

Some people put the cone in after removing the battery. Or turning it, or fitting smaller ones.

So forward, with better intakes,

or on the Polo GTI Twincharger the batter was in the boot.

 

As it is in Summer the area where the Air Filter sits behind the battery gets very hot and sits and there is heat sink.  

As it is there are ways of getting cooler air in and ways of more noise, and ways of better performance.

Edited 9 January, 20224 yr by roottoot

Some modifications can reduce rather than raise power figures, depends on what's been modified and/or how well it's been done.

 

Also depends on whether real world improvements are wanted or ego-figures, some tuning places can record these for those that want/need them and for themselves.

 

RTMG,FORGE, RACING LINE OR MST for the filter.

 

 

194bhp sounds an odd figure to be fair as usually a stage 1 remap is around 210bhp, Where was it dyno'd?

@FurbytomHad the Dyno done on a Factory standard 2014 CTHE.

 

 

Maybe there are members that have had their car on the rolling road that want to show what their standard car did.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/327528-mk2-fabia-vrs-rolling-road-post-yout-graphs

 

Some standard CTHE's here including @sharkrider& @Furbytom

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/355413-sanra-pod-raceway-times-mods-etc

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/209657-14tsi-14-mile-leaderboard

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/466062-vrs-14-tsi-updated-dragy-times

 

 

 

 

Edited 10 January, 20224 yr by roottoot

Dyno calibration is incredibly finicky, engine dynos are far more accurate, however if you're planning a sequence of modifications then a rolling road can be useful as long as you use the same one throughout and you tell the operator that you are only interested in consistency for comparison and not the actual numbers themselves.

 

An operator can program a dyno to say whatever they want it to say so you can largely ignore the figures, suffice to say that 194BHP is a standard engine and the daft foam filter and the missing airbox lid aren't doing the engine any favours keeping the intake air cold and clean.

I've been pipped at the, er, post, but here's mine anyway. 

 

Just as a ballpark comparison comparing like-for-like even factory standard cars is fine but even then you can't really compare one set of rollers too closely against another set and even if you have the same car in the same state of tune you can get different figures on different days.  Same as with error codes and diagnosis it's a lot about the interpretation that leads to better results of different runs on the same day and sets of runs on different days.

 

The rest was going to be  as above  - " if you're planning a sequence of modifications [or servicing/maintenance improvements or just alterations] then a rolling road can be useful as long as you use the same one throughout and you tell the operator that you are only interested in consistency for comparison and not the actual numbers themselves."

 

ETA: though the numbers themselves, as a comparison only within your car, can be of use.  In the same state and state of tune with use of the vehicle over a period of time the figures could rise but then fall and things settle then wear.

 

Edited 10 January, 20224 yr by nta16

Sitting on a rolling road with the bonnet open or closed and cold air blowing from a fan at the car front and running Super Unleaded in the UK with the workshop less than 2,000 ft above sea level is going to get about the best ps / Nm scores on the doors you are likely to get.    Certainly different from you might be getting with an ambient temp in the 20,s and running 95 Ron unleaded as the official figures give.  What they show as MAX are the MIN you should get in the less ideal conditions.    It has much to do with the operator and their knowledge.   There can be very different results with a DSG on how a operator does the runs and the gears chosen. 

Edited 10 January, 20224 yr by roottoot

Nowadays everyone's a size queen, the inexorable rise of soshul meedyah means numbers and charts are all anyone is interested in so most dyno operators just give the customer what they think he wants in return for a fistful of beer tokens.

 

Big numbers = happy punters.

If they are doing it for pay and reward maybe.   If doing their vehicles and mates cars then maybe not so.    It is good to have access to a rolling road to check what you do and what other do for you.  

Comparing "print outs" or more likely photos of them taken and transmitted on a phone is a bit like these silly boys that send photos of their tackle, without any real sort of scale, like a tape measure, and then it'd just be figures without any real information to its use and under what circumstances,  Sundials on an overcast day.  😄

 

The rolling roads used to be more about racing and higher end tuning, with even engines and other bits being run-in on them, could be many hours of work and use on them and repeated on other sessions which many of your average print out and compare or shootouts may not fully understand.  The days of four hours or (many) more on the rollers setting up the mapping or testing a part or installation seem to have gone.  The mentality seems to sometimes be the same as these (if they still do them)  who's got the loudest exhaust, measured with a decibels meter (the tests and meter of dubious accuracy anyway).

 

I got a rolling road tuner to test a set of HT leads to prove to him that they could make a difference, he tested them on a (IIRC grass track) BL Mini with an output of about 49hp (1250 rollers of course) as he knew how they would show any difference and to his surprise there was an improvement, less than half a nag but noticeable and proof that there could be a difference.