Hi Guys,

i have a 1.4tsi hatchback 2017 150psi Skoda Octavia SE L. Recently I am having some problems with the start/stop function of the car. Car starts working normal but after few hours I can see that Start/stop doesn't work. when i press the start/stop button to check it says start/stop error. I ran the diagnostic by OBD11 and it pulls up some errors which shows that Cyld3 misfire.

  Trouble codes: 
        P030000 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
            static
                Date: 2022-02-07 20:11:08
                Mileage: 97895 km
                Priority: 2
                Malfunction frequency counter: 1
                Unlearning counter: 255
                Engine speed: 703.00 1/min
                Normed load value: 14.1 %
                Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
                Coolant temperature: 94 °C
                Intake air temperature: 41 °C
                Ambient air pressure: 1020 mbar
                Voltage terminal 30: 13.004 V
                Dynamic environmental data: 20965011BE000E13F481CDF40681F4463410D3000414B40E10
        P030300 - Cyl.3 Misfire Detected
            static
                Date: 2022-02-07 20:11:08
                Mileage: 97895 km
                Priority: 2
                Malfunction frequency counter: 1
                Unlearning counter: 255
                Engine speed: 703.00 1/min
                Normed load value: 14.1 %
                Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
                Coolant temperature: 94 °C
                Intake air temperature: 41 °C
                Ambient air pressure: 1020 mbar
                Voltage terminal 30: 13.004 V
                Dynamic environmental data: 209650F44634F40B1D1010008B14B40E101199100017460001432100

 

I had the same problem since few weeks. I had the Ignition coil packs (Starline) and spark plugs (Bosch) replaced thinking that it could be because of faulty any of them. but nothing helps to cure the problem.

 

Does anybody has any idea or similar symptom in their car?

 

Please note that, I don't have any power loss in the car while accelerating.

 

I'd probably get a compression test done and check for any air/vacuum leaks...

29 minutes ago, langers2k said:

I'd probably get a compression test done and check for any air/vacuum leaks...

 

Is there anything else I can do by myself? neither i have tool nor i am competent to do compresson test. garage will charge me £80 just to do compresson test, I already paid £70 just to run the diagnose the problem where they said coils and plugs need replacing. 

14 minutes ago, automass said:

Is there anything else I can do by myself? neither i have tool nor i am competent to do compresson test.

 

Feels like you just answered that yourself... 

 

Maybe find a garage that'll do some more in-depth diagnostics and tests before buying parts? They could have easily swapped the spark plug and coil pack between cylinders to confirm the fault before buying new parts.

 

There are lots of reasons for a misfire so until you can narrow it down, you'll be lucky to fix it by replacing parts that 'might' be causing it.

9 hours ago, automass said:

 

Is there anything else I can do by myself? neither i have tool nor i am competent to do compresson test. garage will charge me £80 just to do compresson test, I already paid £70 just to run the diagnose the problem where they said coils and plugs need replacing. 

What Langers2k says above and the answers in the other thread are the answers. It needs proper diagnosis.

First shot of the parts cannon has at least probably eliminated all the plugs and coils as the problem.
Try giving it some injector cleaner, Redex or similar, it’s the only relatively cheap option and easy to try.

https://www.holtsauto.com/redex/

Edited 8 February, 20224 yr by classic

1 hour ago, classic said:

What Langers2k says above and the answers in the other thread are the answers. It needs proper diagnosis.

First shot of the parts cannon has at least probably eliminated all the plugs and coils as the problem.
Try giving it some injector cleaner, Redex or similar, it’s the only relatively cheap option and easy to try.

https://www.holtsauto.com/redex/

 

I like your idea. tomorrow I'll buy couple of bottles of Redex to clean the petrol system. I'll use them all in one go. I drove 4.5hrs today and scanned the car, couldn't detect that culprit cyl 3 misfire fault though power consumption was high which didn't allow the car to stop while waiting in the red signals.

 

N.B: Skoda octavia was my fav car. if it behaves and pull up mysterious fault then I've to think of replacing this car and never go to skoda anymore. but fingers crossed that this is random fault and it will be solved by itself.

5 hours ago, automass said:

 

I like your idea. tomorrow I'll buy couple of bottles of Redex to clean the petrol system. I'll use them all in one go.

 

 

It seems you're incapable of following the good advice given so far, so I guess there was no hope that you would actually just follow the instructions on a Redex bottle 🤦‍♂️

 

Edited 9 February, 20224 yr by Gerrycan

Gerrycan, I used Redex previously in different car. I followed the instruction on the bottle last every time I used..but it didn't work or i didn't feel any difference at all. That's why I am saying I am gonna use two bottles at one go hopping that it will work this time 

Snake oil doesn't fix problem?! Madness

 

Maybe it didn't work because it doesn't do anything or perhaps the fuel system was already clean enough that there was no marked improvement...?

 

 

Anyway, I think it's pretty unlikely that your issues is caused by dirt or deposits on injector 3 and that redex will remove that specific contaminant by using above the recommended dose.

 

I assume you've seen the number of possible reasons for these fault codes:

- http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16684/P0300/000768

- https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16687/P0303/000771

 

 

I don't understand why you want to keep guessing at the fault and spending money on random fixes hoping that'll sort it. You need to get the problem diagnosed properly and then you can fix it...

 

 

@automass here's the thing.

In your posts in the previous thread you were getting error codes across a few cylinders and after you had the plugs and coils changed there was a brief respite for a couple of days you now get the error code on only cylinder three.  I guess that can be considered as some sort of progress.

 

It seems that now you are reporting only one misfire being detected (out of all the multiple thousands of revs), and the only reason that you are aware of it is because the stop/start function stops as a precautionary measure.

To be quite honest stop/start is not terribly important in the grand scheme of things.

Consider also that when your 1.4tsi is idling it is only using 0.5L/hour so depending on your journey type, you may not be saving much fuel with it at all, and anecdotally the battery life can be reduced by the stop/start function so what you potentially save in fuel may have to be offset by the cost of a prematurely failed AGM battery.

 

I would really recommend against putting multiple bottles of Redex, or anything else in your fuel. Additives are not recommended by VW, and while mathematically two negatives make a positive, it rarely works mechanically  

What you could do is to put some higher octane fuel in for at least a couple of tanks and hope the additional cleaners and detergents in it do something. I personally do not think it will but it is harmless and relatively cheap.

You could also turn off stop/start for a few days and see if the error code goes away. It probably won't but if does it may provide additional clues to the problem.

 

Also re-read @xman's suggestions regarding pressing the foot pedal a couple of times to test for an air leak. Judging from your response you either totally misread his instructions or you actually discovered the cause of your problems.

 

I do think you are over-reacting somewhat, If you didn't have a reader you probably would not even be aware of the problem since the car seems to be running perfectly well.

However, If you still want a solution then (as suggested by many others) it will require a competent professional mechanic to identify and fix.

 

Oh, and I can assure you that these sorts of things do happen with other brands.

Edited 9 February, 20224 yr by Gerrycan

Its bit out of topic. Does anyone know how to check battery level in my specific car? I tried pressing the button with engine off ignition on, with engine running and also with nothing running. It weird that battery icon doesn't appear.

5 hours ago, automass said:

Its bit out of topic. Does anyone know how to check battery level in my specific car? I tried pressing the button with engine off ignition on, with engine running and also with nothing running. It weird that battery icon doesn't appear.

I think the ignition has to be off

2 hours ago, ords said:

I think the ignition has to be off

 

It doesn't work. I'll try that way again in the morning.

I couldn't get the battery information by pressing and holding the button. I've tried many different ways.

As in you're trying to get the state of charge (SoC) by pressing the trip button? Pretty sure your car is too new for that, it worked on older cars but I think it was dropped around 2016...

 

You'll need a car battery tester if you want to get a better idea of battery health.

It's been quite awhile now I am driving the car with Stop-start not working. I scan the car everyday but no fault at all. Stop-start doesn't work due to power consumption is too high. I tried with A/C, mobile charger etc off, but no difference. May be battery is not strong enough. Went to halfords, got the battery tested and it came witht the result as GOOD. So why all of suddent the car is drawing too much power which is causing the stop-start not working. NO fault code whatsoever. Any idea guys?

 

N.B: forgot to mention that I used redex and also premium fuel from BP. I used to use Asda fuel all the time.

Edited 20 February, 20224 yr by automass

My guess is that the error codes were coming up during stop start operation and I suspect that when you eventually replace the battery then normal function will be able to resume without errors.

The battery is probably still mostly good for general use but no longer optimal and may well be in decline. Lots of reports where general issues were eventually fixed by  battery replacement.

It's like the situation where on my mk2 the battery in the non-kessy remotes lasted for years, but the mk3 demands the battery in the remote is replaced after only a 18 months or so. When I test the removed battery it is still reading 1.5 volts and I can use them in other applications for quite a while, but it fell below the high voltage requirements of the mk3.

 

Personal opinion is the Redex use and fuel supplier change had little to no effect, others will disagree.

 

Of course there is also the possibility that there was some change implemented affecting the battery you have not told us about like fitting a recording camera or something.

 

 

 

On 21/02/2022 at 01:27, Gerrycan said:

Of course there is also the possibility that there was some change implemented affecting the battery you have not told us about like fitting a recording camera or something.

 

 

There was no gadget other than mobile charger in the car. Obviously as i was taking the matter seriously, I made it sure nothing was drawing the power. Well, I am pretty convinced that my battery is not strong enough for the stop-start system.

But I am enjoing driving the car now, it feels more responsive and faster now..

 

N.B: no more fault code regarding cylinder Misfire.