Hi, I've got the apparently common problem of doors not locking when stationary, and the repeated (and very annoying) locking attempts as I pass 12mph. Took it to skoda dealership, they told me all 4 locks need replacing - at a cost of £1500! Devastating thing was my warranty had run out a week earlier, I'd actually been intending to extend as soon as it expired but got my dates wrong. 

 

So, wondered if anyone knows how I can find out what is involved in replacing them and assess if this is something I can do myself. Sidenote, if anyone knows how I can identify the correct parts to order and where to get them from would welcome the info.

Sounds like a very favourable diagnosis from a profit point of view, but an incredibly improbable one in reality.  More likely a single broken wire between drivers door and a-pillar, or something similarly trivial. Don't even attempt to order anything before getting some second opinions! Lock module replacement can be quite a faff, not sure how bad on a Superb3.

 

What year is the car? If it's only just out of warranty, and 4x lock hardware is being described as in need of replacement, that sounds very much like a case of 'not fit for purpose' whether or not they are actually really broken, so ought to qualify for considerable if not total goodwill cover.

4 locks... no, just no. 
that is a case of they can’t be bothered to do a proper diagnosis and instead throw a blanket over it.

 

If that was in warranty you think Skoda CZ would pay out for 4 door locks without proof of exactly what would be the cause.

 

take it elsewhere, I’ve had similar issues when a door module has been incorrectly coded after a latch was replaced.

 

did you get a copy of the fault codes or anything 

7 hours ago, nicksward said:

Hi, I've got the apparently common problem of doors not locking when stationary, and the repeated (and very annoying) locking attempts as I pass 12mph.

 

I've had that twice in 3.5 years of ownership, but only on the driver's door.

Both times the (unexpected) cure was to charge the battery.

 

A TV engineer (ex-mechanic) pal suggested there may be corrosion somewhere in the circuit that means a higher electrical resistance leading to problems with a low battery voltage.

Worth a try?