Hello!

I have an issue with the high beam indicator that pops up in the dash, the blue one we all recognize.

 

It doesn't come on when i use my high beams. Not even when they're fully activated or the single use action. All the other lights in the dashboard works, headlights, fog light front and back ETC. Just the high beam doesn't show.

The high beams work normal, they light up and everything. Any ideas? The car failed inspection due to this. 

Edited 19 May, 20224 yr by Method

I suspect you have a cracked solder joint on the connector pin which supplies the instrument cluster 12V when the full beams are on.

Pin 2 of the 32-way connector of the instrument cluster. 

See if giving the cluster a 'clout of encouragement' makes it come on at a time when it should be on.  Try not to crack the clear plastic though, hit the top of the dash or something.

1 hour ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

I suspect you have a cracked solder joint on the connector pin which supplies the instrument cluster 12V when the full beams are on.

Pin 2 of the 32-way connector of the instrument cluster. 

See if giving the cluster a 'clout of encouragement' makes it come on at a time when it should be on.  Try not to crack the clear plastic though, hit the top of the dash or something.

Thanks I'll give it a try! 

 

How would I go about fixing this? It needs to be resolved for car inspection

Take the cluster out (not too hard), take off the back cover, carefully take the circuit board out (lots of plastic ramp clips to undo).

Lift up the decal at the green connector end to reveal the solder joints, mend any that are cracked by re-flowing with a soldering iron and flux-cored solder.

May be hard to see cracks without magnification, and be careful not to melt the decal or plastic moulding below it while applying soldering iron.

 

Here's a pic with pins 1 and 17 highlighted, ones which often fail giving immobiliser unreliability.  Pin 2 is left of pin 1 as we look at this.

 

2 hours ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

Take the cluster out (not too hard), take off the back cover, carefully take the circuit board out (lots of plastic ramp clips to undo).

Lift up the decal at the green connector end to reveal the solder joints, mend any that are cracked by re-flowing with a soldering iron and flux-cored solder.

May be hard to see cracks without magnification, and be careful not to melt the decal or plastic moulding below it while applying soldering iron.

 

Here's a pic with pins 1 and 17 highlighted, ones which often fail giving immobiliser unreliability.  Pin 2 is left of pin 1 as we look at this.

 

Thanks,

 

Would replacing the entire thing work? Or is it the wiring and connector that could have issues as well?

 You have not stated year - facelift or pre-facelift - It is possible, but needs VCDS to code immobiliser in or it won't accept code in key for immobilizer, and configuration the cluster may be required to suit car build. I have just done this on my 58 plate but you cannot change mileage as far as i know. You also need to retrieve the 4 digit code from the old and new cluster which needs another OBD reader. Dependant on year replacement used clusters can be cheap, I paid £12.

 Depending on immobilizer fitter:-

Immobilizer IV Immobilizer Swapping (Instrument Cluster) - Ross-Tech Wiki

Edited 19 May, 20224 yr by KeithCheetham

1 hour ago, KeithCheetham said:

 You have not stated year - facelift or pre-facelift - It is possible, but needs VCDS to code immobiliser in or it won't accept code in key for immobilizer, and configuration the cluster may be required to suit car build. I have just done this on my 58 plate but you cannot change mileage as far as i know. You also need to retrieve the 4 digit code from the old and new cluster which needs another OBD reader. Dependant on year replacement used clusters can be cheap, I paid £12.

 Depending on immobilizer fitter:-

Immobilizer IV Immobilizer Swapping (Instrument Cluster) - Ross-Tech Wiki

It's a Skoda Fabia from 2009, 1.4liter engine. 86hp petrol 

8 hours ago, Method said:

Thanks,

 

Would replacing the entire thing work? Or is it the wiring and connector that could have issues as well?

Whereabouts are you? If the fault is in the place I suspect, then a replacement cluster will probably cure it, but I would say it's a lot more work.

8 hours ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

Whereabouts are you? If the fault is in the place I suspect, then a replacement cluster will probably cure it, but I would say it's a lot more work.

 I totally agree, buying the equipment to extract the codes off the original/new cluster, plus the cost of VCDS unless you already have a copy do not make this route economical unless you are able to locate someone with the equipment to carry out the swap. In my case, there was an issue with the outside temperature and fuel level gauge (bar graph type on mine, as a Greenline which has the Level 2 trim, not a dial) making the issue more confusing/complicated.

Have you still got the original Keith? Think I may be able to fix that, FWIW.

No charge, just for learning purposes.

It looks like the route I have to take is buying a new cluster and dealer programming it.

 

Is there any way I can troubleshoot this further? Wouldn't want to spend all this money and have it be for nothing. Could the problem lie elsewhere?

Could it possibly have something to do with the blinker stick having some errors? I have a fault where the cruise control only can be activated when indicating right, LHD car. Could it be some issue where the cables or connections inside?

1 hour ago, Method said:

It looks like the route I have to take is buying a new cluster and dealer programming it.

 

Is there any way I can troubleshoot this further? Wouldn't want to spend all this money and have it be for nothing. Could the problem lie elsewhere?

 

Woah, that sounds drastic and expensive. Especially if a broken wire were the problem.

 

I would say definitely don't consider new cluster unless 100% sure that the 12V 'main beam on'  is getting to the cluster on the wire going to pin 2 when they are on, and you are sure there's no way anyone you know, or can get the cluster to, can help check it over first.

 

LHD so are you outside UK?

 

Did you try hitting the cluster area to explore the 'bad solder joint' theory?

Edited 23 May, 20224 yr by Pete_Ex-Wino

32 minutes ago, Method said:

Could it possibly have something to do with the blinker stick having some errors? I have a fault where the cruise control only can be activated when indicating right, LHD car. Could it be some issue where the cables or connections inside?

 

The feed for the warning light is teed into the left headlight main beam so if the main beam is working there should be a supply to the speedo (32 pin connector pin # 14)  so nothing to do with the stalk 

Ah, have I got the wrong pin number?

I'm seeing pin 14 as 'not assigned'?

K1 s the High beam light ??

I'm looking at Fabia2 from 2006> 

What's that shot from?

1 minute ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

I'm looking at Fabia2 from 2006> 

What's that shot from?

It's on the 2011 at the moment 

 

Ah yes 2006 it shows as pin 2 ??

OP's car is 2009, so I'll stick with the pin 2, white wire.

Could maybe get the cluster out far enough to back-probe the wire/connector pin while everything still connected, and main beams on?

1 minute ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

OP's car is 2009, so I'll stick with the pin 2, white wire.

Could maybe get the cluster out far enough to back-probe the wire/connector pin while everything still connected, and main beams on?

 

Yes Pin 2 👍 a quick fix to pass the ETC just tee into the White wire on pin2 and put a blue light/bulb between the speedo unit and the dash surround ??

3 hours ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

 

Woah, that sounds drastic and expensive. Especially if a broken wire were the problem.

 

I would say definitely don't consider new cluster unless 100% sure that the 12V 'main beam on'  is getting to the cluster on the wire going to pin 2 when they are on, and you are sure there's no way anyone you know, or can get the cluster to, can help check it over first.

 

LHD so are you outside UK?

 

Did you try hitting the cluster area to explore the 'bad solder joint' theory?

Yes I tried hitting it but no success. 

12 hours ago, Method said:

It looks like the route I have to take is buying a new cluster and dealer programming it.

 

Is there any way I can troubleshoot this further? Wouldn't want to spend all this money and have it be for nothing. Could the problem lie elsewhere?

 If Wino/Nige8021method of checking in connector pins is fruitless or beyond your skillset, another method, depending on how cost effective you consider it, may be to look on Ebay and buy a cluster with a matching part number which appear to be available for around £20. This will plug in but not allow the car to start without the immobiliser being matched to the ECU and key, but would allow the ignition and lights to be turned on proving if the issue is in the cluster or external to it. You may be able to find a local VAG independant who could code a replacement cluster but the mileage would be as the replacement cluster as I understand that the mileage cannot be corrected. As you mentioned LHD and inspection, not MOT, I am unsure what "local" support is available. It may be worth completing location, model and year in your profile car details. I believe that the models based on your 2009 may have different clusters with temp gauge and fuel level as needle type on upper level models. It will be interest to see a main dealer quote for a cluster and fitting/coding which may exceed car value.

So a new instrument cluster was bought, fully functioning. 

 

However when given to Skoda workshop they called back saying they're unable to reprogram it. 

 

Apperanetly due to the diffence in odometer from New to old. If it differs too much they're locked out. Any ideas? 

I'm pretty clueless on the mileage adjustment side of things, but vaguely remember once reading that mileage can be increased on secondhand clocks but not decreased. Was the replacement cluster you acquired higher mileage than your original? @hutchysrs50 is clued up on this stuff if I remember right.