The Air Con in our 1.2 BME has never blown cold except for a couple of days after my son had it regassed by ATS about three years ago but, as I am driving this car more, I would like to attempt to fix it for the summer 🙂. I am planning on getting the system tested for leaks and regassed, and want to eliminate any Fabia specific gremlins beforehand.

 

So far I have checked the following:

 

A/C button lights up orange when pressed and fan speeds 1-4 all blow at their speeds.

VCDS lite found 1 fault code: 00819 - High Pressure Sensor (G65)  07-00 -  Signal to low

Measuring Blocks 2 shows 0.0% Compressor Load and 0.0 bar Refrigerant Pressure (G65)

 

What should I check next before calling in an A/C specialist for diagnosis?

 

You can't really do anything except wait for the aircon guy to vacuum test it and find the leak(s).

I changed the two 5A A/C fuses in the cabin, and the 40A strip / 30A blade fuse for the fan because i don't think I have ever seen or heard it move. This hasn't resolved the issue, but it was quick and easy to try. Now eliminated at least. I guess the engine may never get hot enough to trigger the fan?

 

I have asked the AC guy for an appointment.

There's one other fuse you could check (will look up in a sec), but if the refrigerant is very low you won't get the compressor being ramped up I think, or even if it is, the pressure rise won't be enough to trigger the fan.

Shorting thermoswitch connector contacts can be a way of checking radiator fan function independent of the A/C triggering.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/503932-radiator-fan-relay-switch-de-pin/?do=findComment&comment=5659700

 

If you happen to have a UV torch you can have a look round the engine bay in low ambient light levels and maybe see leak sources if any dye has ever been added when topping up.

I have one you could borrow, probably wouldn't cost too much to post.

 

O-rings in the high pressure side of the circuit are candidates if there's no obvious condenser damage etc.

 

Edited 26 May, 20224 yr by Pete_Ex-Wino

Fuse 9 or 11 in the group of blade fuses on the battery fuseholder, 5 Amp (red/violet wire coming off it). Changed position with build date some time in 2005 or 2006, can't remember exactly. 

It's one of the supplies to the fan control unit. 

Edited 26 May, 20224 yr by Pete_Ex-Wino

18 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

You can't really do anything except wait for the aircon guy to vacuum test it and find the leak(s).

 

Thanks, I will post an update once they've been out.

10 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

Fuse 9 or 11 in the group of blade fuses on the battery fuseholder, 5 Amp. Changed position with build date some time in 2005 or 2006, can't remember exactly. 

It's one of the supplies to the fan control unit. 

 

Thanks, I will swap it out. I do have an UV torch so will give that a go.

When my air con wasn't working, the fan was never on unless in traffic for extreme periods of time. Now that I have air con c/o a regas, it comes on when set to.

20 hours ago, garibaldy said:

The Air Con in our 1.2 BME has never blown cold except for a couple of days after my son had it regassed by ATS about three years ago but, as I am driving this car more, I would like to attempt to fix it for the summer 🙂. I am planning on getting the system tested for leaks and regassed, and want to eliminate any Fabia specific gremlins beforehand.

 

So far I have checked the following:

 

A/C button lights up orange when pressed and fan speeds 1-4 all blow at their speeds.

VCDS lite found 1 fault code: 00819 - High Pressure Sensor (G65)  07-00 -  Signal to low

Measuring Blocks 2 shows 0.0% Compressor Load and 0.0 bar Refrigerant Pressure (G65)

 

What should I check next before calling in an A/C specialist for diagnosis?

 

You could look in VCDS for the compressor shut down code but I can guarantee you that it will be system pressure too low based on what you have written.

 

You have a leak which is significant enough to deplete the refrigerant charge in 2 days, go ahead with your plan to get it tested but dont believe them if they say there is no leak and they are going to recharge the system and redeplete your wallet, they either didn't want to spend the 30 minutes a vacuum test takes (yours would only take a couple of minutes) or they just want your money.

 

With your UV pen check the O ring connections to the compressor and the drier cartridge on the condensor.

2 hours ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

 

 

If you happen to have a UV torch you can have a look round the engine bay in low ambient light levels and maybe see leak sources if any dye has ever been added when topping up.

I have one you could borrow, probably wouldn't cost too much to post.

 

O-rings in the high pressure side of the circuit are candidates if there's no obvious condenser damage etc.

 

 

and thanks for the offer of lending me your UV torch. Very kind, thanks again!

Edited 26 May, 20224 yr by garibaldy

2 hours ago, J.R. said:

You could look in VCDS for the compressor shut down code but I can guarantee you that it will be system pressure too low based on what you have written.

 

You have a leak which is significant enough to deplete the refrigerant charge in 2 days, go ahead with your plan to get it tested but dont believe them if they say there is no leak and they are going to recharge the system and redeplete your wallet, they either didn't want to spend the 30 minutes a vacuum test takes (yours would only take a couple of minutes) or they just want your money.

 

With your UV pen check the O ring connections to the compressor and the drier cartridge on the condensor.

 

Thanks J.R., I have a value of 3 under Compressor Shut-Off in measuring bocks group 02. It changes to 6 if i switch off AC. 

6 will be "aircon switch in off position", 3 I am betting will be low pressure.

Yep.