Hi,

I have the lovely common fault of the drivers side door wiring loom has been cut so my window has stopped working i have jerry rigged a setup to get the locks working again with the damaged cable by finding the correct cables.

But from the motor for the window i have a light gray/light blue coloured cable that had been ripped out of the plug on the plug side towards the car please let me know what this cable does the only thing i have come up with its a signal wire for v12 on when it seems to touch any other wire that has power the window works till the car is locked and won't work again till its taken off the wire and put back on. There seems to be a brown or something else im not sure as the wire was burnt out and has no sleeve on it anymore but seems to be a brown one as that was the cable damaged through the loom.

I have repaired about 90% of the loom by hand it took a very long time and i had no instructions or multimeter just took some good guesses from wiring head units in cars.

I just need some help understanding what im missing from this i will be buying a repair kit at some point once i fix the current broken loom to see if its worth spending the money or just getting rid of the power window and popping in a hand crank instead.

im assuming no one has one as im not able to get one from anywhere would buying one of these kits be a good idea?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313776901795?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda|Cars+Type%3A1.2|Plat_Gen%3AMK+II|Cars+Year%3A2011|Model%3AFabia|Variant%3APetrol+Hatchback|Engine%3A1198cc+44KW+60HP+BBM%3BCHFA|BodyStyle%3AFWD+II+542%2C5J%2C5J&hash=item490e8f8ea3:g:jW0AAOSwh8JhqJY8&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8ALfFHIUFrLW3woRxwhqCQ5k9FDaACCgyI8irRhCcNl%2Fs2gSsZb0iha12BJVpPLysalzrrM2eknlGWa95RDeqwEP8xVkc%2FlIs%2FPeqIEGyUswQW9lPhvnJSftJr695jb9u1owOkV2D20AAMWM7BOriBfy3Kog%2BzVNGzVc83F6OD%2FOSd4%2FEkYI2hVuWthkLOZotJPo0gF87yyZLrY4KTZuw%2FA2bQFuzGlRitV%2BiTbQi%2BeBQAC90hZTK51z1QNm3Vl1%2FpQ93Pjfxie2JUDL8IioU7tXziaaBzfF9D%2F17nN4e8dcbGm1ZZGUwYGFsHY9RaN2bQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM3ruUn6Ng 

 

at least then i can find out and doc it for other people? 

 

Please let me know if anyone has any answers im happy to take some pictures of the jobby i have done as its not as bad as when i got the car saturday.

 

Its all temp wiring to find out if the reg had been killed or if the switches had been killed or the locking system as well.

 

That grey/blue wire sounds like the LIN data line that links the window motor modules on each side of the car, and also to the body control module. If not connected I can well imagine the windows will play up.

Funnily enough I am in the process of doing a little 'how to' thread on checking mk2 Fabia door looms, I'll push on with it!

Grey/blue is power for LEDs that illuminates switches, sorry, not LIN.

There are three Grey + tracer wires,  Grey/Violet pin 1 on switch unit to pin 11 on door control unit ( rear window isolation switch)  Grey/Blue Pin 3 switch unit to pin 8 door disconnect (Backlighting supply) & Grey/White Pin 5 control unit to pin 5 door disconnect (LIN) 

I'll try to attach a word doc I sketched out quickly this morning showing point to point connectivity between each connector downstream of the main 28-way. It was created from a mixture of 'buzzing out' and viewing circuits, from a 2012 car. Will find and add exact loom part number when I'm not sitting outside a pub in the sunshine!

There are a bunch of pics of each connector to go with the tables. To be continued...

Mirror switch.docx

i think the colour of the wire i mean must be a gray and white where it was melted it looked like the led for the switches the colours ill take a picture of my temp fix on this issue after 5pm today.

quick one with the numbers at the end as per below example is this the pins they go to?

 

Also i need to repair that smaller wire as your helpful doc states i should have 2 grounds i only have the big ground not the other wire as that was burnt out.

 

 

Yes, pin 5 of the 28-way at the a-pillar connector is the one you've heavily underlined. 

Column of pins nearest you, 5th one down.

5/28 means pin 5 of the 28 pin door disconnect plug

This is the pinout of the 28-way loom connector, viewed on the mating face

I see an error in my word doc where 3/4 got turned into three quarters, and another where I wrote 24/25 instead of 24/28; cheers! 

thank you this is what i was thinking just wanted to check is there a way to depin these connectors as i will need to depin pin 5 as its has a broken wire deep in the socket like somebody had yanked the wire out of the connector. 😞 

 

 

Not sure if it'll let me upload all the other pics at once, but here's my attempt:

They could do with labels saying what they are, which I'll add and try to harmonise with the written info when I get round to the proper how-to .

Be aware that if trying to buzz out with a multimeter, you're very likely to need a short piece of thin wire to poke into each connector 'pin' to ensure good contact with the multimeter probe, most of the orifices won't let a probe tip far enough in.

15 minutes ago, mk2rs2008 said:

thank you this is what i was thinking just wanted to check is there a way to depin these connectors as i will need to depin pin 5 as its has a broken wire deep in the socket like somebody had yanked the wire out of the connector. 😞 

 

 

Yes, there's a purple plastic part that needs to slide one way to unlock all the pins, then you'll probably need a pin removal tool of some sort, not sure exactly which type suits, but generally a pair of stiff steel wires just the right distance apart to defeat the locking features of the crimp inserts.

Edited 31 May, 20224 yr by Pete_Ex-Wino

The loom from which these photos and wiring tables was generated was part number  5J0971120GK (made in late April 2012); if yours is a different part number the tables shouldn't be relied on 100%.

This is my temporary repair work it’s bad but it was worse 

This is how badly burnt the cables are most of them I have had to patch up 

Right the gray and white wire on pin 5 is definitely Signal wire it tells the motor when the car is unlocked if you put 12v to it sometimes will think the car is locked not sure why but this explains when I press the lock button in the car it auto unlocks straight away so I ended up getting a bigger wire and put it into the 5th pin where the shaped cable was and it worked straight away but this will not solve the problem I do still need a new harness I’m going to have a look at some wrecker yards over the week end to see if I can get one any recommendations of wrecker yard websites would be lovely as none of my local ones have a fabia in 

Lock-related signals go direct to the BCM via the wires in the last section of my word doc, but the LIN data comms line on 5/28 forwards that info to the window motor module, for functions where there's an interaction between door or lock position and what the windows should/shouldn't be doing.

If you send me the loom I could repair and return, for a reasonable sum.

The bank hols get in the way a bit, but let me know by PM if interested. 

On 31/05/2022 at 21:37, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

Lock-related signals go direct to the BCM via the wires in the last section of my word doc, but the LIN data comms line on 5/28 forwards that info to the window motor module, for functions where there's an interaction between door or lock position and what the windows should/shouldn't be doing.

 

so the motor ground the smaller ground is connected to the BMC? if so this would make since as I have found a exposed ground going though the harness on the driver side of the car coming from the female end of the wire and it seems to work for about 15 mins and then stops working after that until the harness if disconnected and reconnected and then the windows start working again

Exposed copper on an earth/ground wire shouldn't generally be any problem, unless there's exposed copper on another wire that could short to it. On its own, if it shorts to metalwork, well that's earthed anyway, so shouldn't matter.

 

But bring me up to speed on the general situation,please; you were talking about fitting another loom last time we chatted, has that happened? If this is another loom, is it the same part number including letters at the end?

 

 

hi,

 

This is correct same part number everything is working like the old broken loom so the windows will stop working after 15mins the loom went in fin all pins matched the car and seemed all good then the next day the windows stopped working and then i found the burnt-out ground on the other side of the connecter that had been there for a while by the looks of the copper it started to turn green so it had been like it for a while and it seems to have melted itself to all of the other wires and i did separate as many away from the ground as possible but i don't know where the wire ends to change this ground.

Have just replied about that on your other thread.