You can get an Octavia Scout with the 1.8 TSi petrol engine in it, but they are quite rare, not sure if this helps with your car hunting. 

 

We had one, they are 160ps as standard and map to approx 200ps, mpg wise ours did early 30's running around and 40 on a run.

With a turbo swap and a few other bits, 250 ps + should be possible.

 

Edit - also the Octavia 4x4 (non-Scout) could be specified with this engine.

Edited 18 November, 20223 yr by Bogwoppit

Ive looked into them, sounds like theyve got the same engine as a VRS, but 10% smaller.

I dont think it'll be economical enough for me, and it sounds like the modified power outputs are similar to the diesels.

Thanks for the suggestion though!

A petrol can be surprisingly frugal. Half the fuel usage is a bit of an exaggeration possibly.  But then there are other benefits to a diesel especially when towing.

 

If it were me I'd go for the 105pd. With a simple map they feel a lot more than the 140ish they end up with. Then a few more mods to the fuel system will open it up a bit more. Don't expect 200 without plumes of smoke but then the torque is great and you don't need 200hp. The simplicity of the engine and cheap parts would also sway me. Finding one that isn't trashed might be hard though. 

27 minutes ago, MarkyG82 said:

If it were me I'd go for the 105pd. With a simple map they feel a lot more than the 140ish they end up with.

 

A very good description.

 

I followed the same path with the Yeti 108hp with similar results although the claims are much higher, I would say that it has a useable 170hp, possibly the VAG 170 map but with a smaller turbo so drivable from 1K RPM in any gear.

Can I pull the DPF off a facelift PD105 and have it still pass an MoT?

The Pd105 doesn't have a DPF in the first place.

12 hours ago, softscoop said:

The Pd105 doesn't have a DPF in the first place.

Even the post-facelift cars?

Alright, finally about to make the jump.

A few questions, because Ive done a fair amount of readibg about diesel tuning.

What is the torque limit for the gen 2 haldex? Am I going to break it?

Anyone here with a relatively extensively modified PD? How have you found it effects the fuel economy and reliability?

Im planning on FMIC, larger turbo, exhaust mods, injectors and clutch. Anything else I should do? EGR delete? EGT and boost gauge? 

I want to do some long distance trips in it, so I dobt want to tank the MPG or fuel economy. With the cost of the mods I could buy a BMW Z4 or boxster, so if the mods will ruin it, I wont bother.

Also - brakes, what upgrades are availabe? Are VRS brakes any bigger? 

Not sure what Ill do about suspension. Its more likely to see a greenlane than a racetrack, so I dont want to slam it and fit rock hard suspension. At most Ill fit VRS shocks and springs (and ARBs if theyre stiffer)

Thanks!

Torque limit is 500nm if I recall correctly.

Fuel economy was pretty much unchanged on my dpf off stage 1 2.0pd but then that depends on how much you use the extra.

No issues with reliability other than it bursting the flexible turbo to intercooler bend every 7 years

I didn't bother with any other mods

Edited 14 February, 20233 yr by skomaz

Thanks, by stage 1 I presume you mean a remap with no other changes?

4 minutes ago, Reeky said:

Thanks, by stage 1 I presume you mean a remap with no other changes?

 

Yep dpf off and mapped to 185bhp.  No other changes.

 

Edited 14 February, 20233 yr by skomaz

Have you timed a 0-60 or any in-gear times? Is yours a 4x4/scout too?

A remap by Angel Tuning on my Mk5 Golf 170 PD saw it make 210 bhp and 330 lbs-ft on the rollers.  That was with cat', DPF and EGR intact.  I don't like clouds of reek coming out of my tailpipes. 😉

 

I subsequently had the plastic, flappy inlet manifold on the BMN replaced with an alloy one without flaps from a BKD, 140 PD.   That mod and the remap made the car much better.  The overtaking grunt

was pretty immense as you can imagine from the torque figure.  However, if I kept it below 100 mph on long runs across country, it would show an average 52 mpg on the display. 

Edited 14 February, 20233 yr by Schtum

Thats massively impressive.

Also agreed on the reek. Not keen. Bad for captain planet.

Well Ive finally actually bought it. Booked in for a long overdue cambelt change, otherwise has immaculate service history.

I noticed that the AC sits infront of the intercooler, is this normal?

Has anyone broken their BMM? I want to know at what power level Ill break it (Its 500NM for the haldex)

What gearbox have you got?

6 minutes ago, toot said:

What gearbox have you got?

6 speed manual

@Reeky What do Skoda / VW have as the max torque limit on the box you have?

On 05/03/2023 at 20:01, toot said:

@Reeky What do Skoda / VW have as the max torque limit on the box you have?

Not sure - where would I find it?

Having looked at how I use the car (occasional light offroading, fetching a trailer from the bottom of a wet field) I don't really want to lower it, but I would very much like to reduce the body roll and sharpen up the steering a little. Am I right in thinking that a thicker ARB is the best way of doing this?

Also REALLY need more power for overtaking

For overtaking something not at the 60 mph speed limit?  

Yes a rear roll bar will sharpen up the handling. Coupled with uprated shocks (bilstein b6 for example) will offer the best improvement without lowering.

On 08/03/2023 at 11:50, toot said:

For overtaking something not at the 60 mph speed limit?  

Obviously...

On 10/03/2023 at 07:05, MarkyG82 said:

Yes a rear roll bar will sharpen up the handling. Coupled with uprated shocks (bilstein b6 for example) will offer the best improvement without lowering.

Superb. Front and rear, or just rear? 

Thanks!

14 hours ago, Reeky said:

Superb. Front and rear, or just rear? 

Thanks!

 

Depends on how extreme you want to go. For a little extra support, and all other suspension components being good, a rear bar from a golf r or an aftermarket option would be a good starting point. It's also a straightforward DIY job if you are confident taking a wheel off.

The front is a much larger job and something I wouldn't attempt myself. I have the skills and tools, but lack of experience would make it a weekend job. Too old and "responsible" for that 😉

 

If going for uprated shocks at the same time then definitely just a rear is enough. I have a white line adjustable bar. Has 2 stiffness settings. Soft is comparable to a golf r apparently and how I have it set now. Needs to be stiffer though so planning on changing it to the stuff setting as I prefer a sharper turn in.