Hi,
Today I started my car, it struggled a little bit, but it started and errors just started popping up (Start-Stop system failure, ESC failure, Front Assist unavailable), and the car was idling at 1.1k RPMs, I was unable to add revs. The car is driven every day, it was not cold outside. Start-Stop wasn't working for quite a while, it was constantly giving me a message that the car power demand is too high or something like that, but it didn't bother me. Also, for about 1-2 months, upon starting the car, the message that Front Assist is not available was popping up, not every time, but it happened every other startup, and I ignored it because Front Assist was functional after that, and the message would clear itself (tested it by driving a little bit closer to my friend on the highway, and it displayed the following distance warning symbol), so I didn't think much of it. Today is the first time that this had happened, I didn't leave any lights on or anything during the night, so I don't know if the battery could be the issue. I "fixed" the problem after letting it idle for about a minute, then I restarted the car, and it was all normal, except for the Start-Stop system failure message that stayed. I attached an image and a video showing the problem.
Thanks!

Normally 'we' as in people on the forum guess that the battery is the issue, so i will do the same. 

6 year old battery on it's way out. 

If you've not left it too later then try a full proper recharge of the battery, preferably off the car and the recharge as long low and slow as reasonably possibly on an appropriate charger, overnight or much more if possible, not a few hours or just driving the car around.

 

Otherwise just replace the battery with a new one.

 

Whichever, next time don't leave it so long to recharge the battery , new or not, and remember just because the car starts and the lights seem bright enough it does not mean that you haven't depleted the battery.  The recent very hot weather (depending on where you are) will have done your battery and charging systems no favours at at all especially after your treatment of both.  You are a very naughty boy!

  

Edited 10 August, 20223 yr by nta16
spelling

9 hours ago, nta16 said:

If you've not left it too later then try a full proper recharge of the battery, preferably off the car and the recharge as long low and slow as reasonably possibly on an appropriate charger, overnight or much more if possible, not a few hours or just driving the car around.

 

Otherwise just replace the battery with a new one.

 

Whichever, next time don't leave it so long to recharge the battery , new or not, and remember just because the car starts and the lights seem bright enough it does not mean that you haven't depleted the battery.  The recent very hot weather (depending on where you are) will have done your battery and charging systems no favours at at all especially after your treatment of both.  You are a very naughty boy!

  

Okay, thanks! I am going to replace the battery, just to be safe. Current battery is AGM, If I replace it with an AGM battery, will it need recoding?
And also, could it be that the alarm isn't working because of the faulty battery? I never got the alarm to work, I tried opening the doors from the inside while the car was locked via the keyfob, and it never activated (I waited 30 seconds like it is stated in the owner's manual for the alarm to activate).

The Alarm siren has it's own battery. 

On 11/08/2022 at 09:10, Boki02 said:

Okay, thanks! I am going to replace the battery, just to be safe. Current battery is AGM, If I replace it with an AGM battery, will it need recoding?

Probably best for you to get a new battery, you want another AGM battery of the same AH and CCA, unless your current AGM battery wasn't original and a very cheap one (if they exist).

 

The general opinion is that you don't have to recode the battery as long as it's the same as the previous battery in type as the computer program will 'learn' of the battery improvement just that the recoding will be instant.

 

To possibly help with other warnings and error codes whilst the battery is disconnected - [ETA: - carefully bridge/join the positive and negative battery leads post clamps together to complete a circuit ] - turn the headlights on, for say 5 seconds, to empty any electric left, or with the ignition on press the brake pedal down to light up the brake bulbs for a few seconds had the if the battery not been disconnected, don't forget to turn off the headlights or ignition before you fit the new battery.

 

Alarm is probably a different issue come back to that with a new thread after you've changed your battery.

 

Tayna Batteries, Skoda Fabia diesel AGM list. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/096-agm/

 

Edited 18 February, 20233 yr by nta16
ETA: an important bit I missed out

Don't think It would be worth delivering a car battery from UK to Croatia.

 

2016 Fabia III's came out with an EFB battery in the UK.

 

Thanks, AG Falco

6 hours ago, AGFalco said:

Don't think It would be worth delivering a car battery from UK to Croatia.

True but the link goes to a list of AGM batteries of different makes and figures and the post in this thread didn't give where the location was but I did wonder.

 

 

6 hours ago, AGFalco said:

2016 Fabia III's came out with an EFB battery in the UK.

Well my wife's 2015 had a Moll EFB and I did wonder whether that'd also be the case for a 2016 so did put unless the current AGM battery wasn't original and perhaps a very cheap one at that (if they exist) as potentially this will be a second replacement when many would still be approaching their first replacement but it can depend on a lot of circumstances particular how the owner/driver uses the car and it's electrical storage.

 

The chap in front of me at Halfords had a car battery on his shoulder and when I said to the chap on the till that I expected they were selling a lot of car batteries because of the weather he said yes, and lots of wiper blades as they were getting stuck to the screen, or that's what I thought he said.

  

19 hours ago, nta16 said:

Probably best for you to get a new battery, you want another AGM battery of the same AH and CCA, unless your current AGM battery wasn't original and a very cheap one (if they exist).

 

The general opinion is that you don't have to recode the battery as long as it's the same as the previous battery in type as the computer program will 'learn' of the battery improvement just that the recoding will be instant.

 

To possibly help with other warnings and error codes whilst the battery is disconnected turn the headlights on, for say 5 seconds, to empty any electric left, or with the ignition on press the brake pedal down to light up the brake bulbs for a few seconds had the if the battery not been disconnected, don't forget to turn off the headlights or ignition before you fit the new battery.

 

Alarm is probably a different issue come back to that with a new thread after you've changed your battery.

 

Tayna Batteries, Skoda Fabia diesel AGM list. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/096-agm/

 

My current battery is Varta 7P0 915 105, 68 Ah, 380A, not sure if it is original, I bought this car used, my local repair shop that does the recoding and replacing batteries said that I need a stronger one, they searched by the VIN and suggested that I put an 74 Ah one, 680A, not sure what brand it is, but is it necessary to put 74 Ah? On this list I only see 70 Ah batteries, but if 74 Ah is better, and if it won't do harm, should I just put in the stronger one?

Different regions of the world might have different batteries used.  As with a lot else in life you don't just go by numbers what you want is a good make and model of battery that will retain its performance for as long as possible.

 

74Ah is just as it seems over 70Ah provided the battery retains this for a reasonable life, 680CCA looks lower but there are different standards of measuring this (same for 380CCA).   

 

If they have not already done so tell they you want a good quality battery that works well for as long as possibly rather than a lower priced battery, that will work out more expensive and more hassle overall.

 

Do check that you are being offered a EFB or AGM battery and not this (from the Tayna list under standard 096 batteries) - E11 VARTA BLUE DYNAMIC CAR BATTERY 12V 74AH (574012068) (096) - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/e11/

 

https://www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/products/varta-blue-dynamic/574-012-068

 

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/096/

 

For your information.  The label on your existing battery shows 380 A (DIN standard) and 680 A (EN SAE standards).

 

And is an AGM.

 

 

Edited 12 August, 20223 yr by nta16