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Stop/start system and battery issues

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Hello. 
 

Hoping for some help with my 2020 Fabia 70tsi. 
 

Currently, the stop/start system has not been working for months. I KNOW some people hate this feature, I personally don’t mind it. The message that shows up constantly is saying that power consumption is too high.

 

Now, some backstory.

 

In 2021, this same thing happened, stopped working for months, had it checked and came back with faulty battery control module, replaced under warranty, stop/start system works again. 
 

May 2022, stop/start system worked once in a blue moon, had it checked at dealership, diagnosis: “it’s just the cars characteristics”. Stop/start system continued extremely rarely working and eventually not at all.

 

July 2022, went out to the car to find the battery went flat. Called roadside assistance, they diagnosed with faulty alternator. Car was towed to Skoda and their diagnosis was that nothing is wrong. Dealership charged the battery up, stop/start system worked briefly after picking up car, and briefly next day, and never again since then. I later discovered via dashcam that for some reason, the alarm went off in the garage and the hazard lights began flashing which I’m assuming drained the battery. 
 

I have also tried driving with dashcam off to see if stop/start system will work, but it will not. The system is definitely ON.

 

The dealership obviously don’t care about this, so hopefully someone here has some ideas or advice! Thank you in advance. Sorry for the essay.

I'm no battery expert, but do wonder if the deep discharge has killed off your battery life?

 

Hopefully someone can reply at some point, with the car still in warranty, I'd be sending it back in myself, and they had better do a better job.

 

Wonder if the car has parasitic drain somewhere all this time.

Possibly the dealership didn't do a good job of checking your battery or the charging system or charging the battery up.  Often a low slow low recharge is required particularly if that's how the battery drained.  And the battery charges better in milder conditions, not too hot or cold.

 

ETA: the unusual very hot weather here in the UK will be making batteries, and charging systems suffer, many will be changing their batteries now (many of those unnecessarily as they probably could have been saved especially if where required they were recharged correctly)  and those not changed now may well be changed in autumn and winter when the days shorten and we get colder wetter weather.  

 

It maybe that your battery has had it by the way it has been treated or ignored by the dealership - but I've saved some of my neighbour's batteries just by the use of old charger and patience (can take up to over a couple days with the battery charged off the car) but I've lost a couple that were too far gone. 

 

You also want the charging system checked.

 

If the dashcam is on there is a constant drain and if the battery is still low because of a quick shallow recharge then it's like filling a bucket with a hole in it.

 

I'd give up on the Dealership for now and buy or borrow an appropriate battery charger for the battery and start a long. low, slow recharge or try recondition/revitalise/wotever-it's-called setting on the charger.  Preferably battery charged off the car in stable suitable conditions.

 

Some fancy chargers can also carry out alternator checks to.

 

Or you may decide you'd soon just go with a new battery but good ones are expensive and you might revive your existing battery.

 

 

Edited by nta16
ETA:

I also meant to add, when I put I'd give up on the Dealership for now I only meant with regard to the battery charging, they ought to replace the battery if required given what's been done so far but don't hold your breath and they probably throw in the cheapest they could get away with.

 

Also recharging the battery fully and properly, if it can be, or fitting a suitable new battery doesn't exclude any other underlying problems like with the charging system, or as before the battery control module, or any other computer component or programming.  But having a battery that is properly fully charged, or new, will help with any sort of diagnostics.

 

Just properly fully charging the battery, or if required replacing with new, will often sort many issues, then perhaps deleting error codes can speed up getting back to normal running and where they appear without warnings or codes.

 

You may also need to check for any constant draws, like a dashcam that never rests, and any drains that should be there, not so easy with the very modern cars but a Dealership should know an expert to bring in if they haven't one of their own - or they don't allow their staff enough training, time or equipment to do diagnosis properly.

 

Edited by nta16

I echo what @varooom said, also maybe do what I have done and buy a "plug in 12V DVM" and keep that in the "ciggy lighter" power socket, then only cost roughly £5 in UK money, good enough to keep you up to date with what is happening and maybe allow you to provide your Skoda dealership's workshop with some extra info.

For the record, the charging system tries to keep battery charging to a minimum to save waste/emissions and dump lots of charging into the battery when on the over run/braking, so that means "seeing" 12.4V > 13.2V normally and just under 15V on the over run. I allow auto stop/start to do its things now and again and always if I've just missed a green traffic light.  Having the AC on and requiring it to run the compressor will always disable the auto stop/start as other things will - but you have also included a high power usage, so that would certainly disable it.

My wife's VW Polo is a 2015 car and has already changed the charging characteristics once from "as little as possible" charging to "always cramming in as much charge as possible at all times" lucky for me I had bought and was using that plug in DVM before that happened, as that car was out of warranty when that happened, I changed the battery serial number and that altered the charging characteristics back a bit towards what they had been before this happened, going by what my battery tester tells me, that battery, when well charged and after 6 hours of the car having been used, has dropped down in capacity ie in terms of CCA, from 640A EN down to 500A EN, but still gets classed as "battery good" and if left with auto stop/start enabled, will auto stop within maybe 1 mile having been travelled summer or winter! New AGM battery is waiting for when things start to go wrong and the original EFB battery has run of life - but that has not happened yet, mileage is almost 40K miles, that car's battery was connected to a CTEK smart charger during Covid lockdown periods, so it has been well looked after I feel.

@rum4mo Stop start can still stop engine with AC on, it will monitor interior temps.  Had this other day at 20C setting, engine off at lights, it got a little warm after 20 seconds and started engine again.

 

Max (Low) no doubt overrides SS system iirc.

Yes but I was thinking , maybe what we consider to be, ambient temperatures in Oz, so "AC on" ="Compressor on high duty cycle/displacement".

Yeah I bet it works it's socks off in hot climates, car sorts out what it likes as always.

I think that my older daughter spotted slight frosting on the windscreen of her Barina(sp) ie Corsa a few times when she was working in Perth.

Yes I was wondering about the AC stopping the start/stop and could try it if in the car with the current (far too high for me) temperatures, but I'd probably forget.

 

I'm sure you'll never out-think the VW computer programs, I'm sure The Terminator's Skynet will develop from VW's previous cheat programs and all programs since. 😉

Temperature in Melbourne tomorrow forecast at 8c-14c, Northampton 16c-35c.  Good for some but not for me I'm driving in it with only 4/60 air-con which only operate whilst moving. 

Edited by nta16

Anyway, my maybe obsession for feeling the need to know what the charging is doing on which ever of the cars I am driving, older daughter's partner has a fairly "new" it seems Lotus Espirite - it tends to sleep under a fitted cover, always connected to a small CTEK, well it is due its MOT so it needed to be wakened up!  "click click click" was all that was heard - battery had been replaced last year after its previous battery died for some reason, suspected to be lack of maintenance while it hibernated/was stored at the local "top or only Lotus Indie's premises" - that was annoying, I grabbed the plug in DVM out of the Polo and stuffed it into the Lotus's ciggy lighter socket - 10.2V - not good! So his first task is to remove that battery and charge it up probably using my "not too smart" newish RAC 8Amp charger, then I can connect my battery tester on it to see if it looks okayish or now, like the previous one dead! Then he can move onto looking into if there are parasitic draws - like "what exactly is the security device?"  

 

Off course, LOTUS does stand for something rather unfortunate!  The "steady bar" thing fixed to the alternator is nylon!!!!! Maybe part of the "much lightness added" - I asked him about that, as it was a failure during its only outing last year (screeching of slipping alternator) that forced it back into hibernation, he said many people commented about that nylon strip while many said "no issues" from it being nylon.

 

I prefer cars that have their engines in the front as you can reach things a lot better, plus I think cars that you can almost reach under them!!

Not battery temp in OZ just now then, or the ambient temp and requested temp being more the 16 degrees difference. 

 

 

Screenshot 2022-08-12 18.12.30.jpg

@rum4mo so he's got a static garage ornament, it's also an old Lotus, stands to reason that if he only has the usual Lotus  issues it's going to seem a lot more because of the static to moving ratio.  I don't like the sound of this guy at all, keep an eye on him.

 

8 amps!!  You'll overheat the Lotus wiring with that sort of power!

 

I knew someone in the club who had an Elan +2, Spyder chassis and Zetec engine conversion, the few times he drove it it always started and ran, of course he sold it as he never used it.  The one and only reason to have a toy/fun car to me is to drive it, but each to their own.

This guy also had an Elan, the M200 version, ie "best handling front wheel drive ever" so experts claim, anyway, having 2 Lotuses and starting to get his bachelor bungalow completely rebuilt, did mean one of them had to go, unfortunately it was the cheaper one that was sold quickly, to another Lotus enthusiast had had missed that one left time it went on sale and grabbed it this time round!

 

One man's loss etc, at least he has my daughter to keep him company, though he does not like her Leon Cupra - just not traditional enough, "not a proper car" but it does start and go and you don't need to fold yourself up to get inside it!

 

The battery was removed from the car, that 8amp RAC branded semi clever charger got it charged back up, capacity according to my battery tester has dropped from 550A CCA to 425A CCA and it declares that "battery is good - recharge".  So, then it was subjected to a "refurbishing" cycle, ie de-sulphating charging program, and completed that without my daughter's CTEK MSX 5 getting too hot, so I've suggested that he give it another of that type of charging cycle to see if that is enough to revive it more.

 

That car is being treated to a "disconnect"  thing for convenience until it has been serviced and MOT'd - in the mean time I'm suggesting that he digs deep and gets hold of a suitable Lotus workshop manual, I think that they do exist on ebay from time to time - and look around that car for the security device(s) and get up to speed info wise on them - this is an S reg car so a series 3 I think GT - what ever that implies.

 

I'm imagining maybe wrongly, that all the wiring will be in "stylish" plain black wire, and who really wants to chase down faults on that sort of thing!

On 13/08/2022 at 17:07, rum4mo said:

Elan, the M200 version

We were out on a run with our friends in their M100 today (for a short time they had two).

 

 

On 13/08/2022 at 17:07, rum4mo said:

550A CCA to 425A CCA and it declares that "battery is good - recharge"

That's 77%, according to my neighbour Ring SmartCharger manual - "Good >74%, check 50-74%".

 

 

On 13/08/2022 at 17:07, rum4mo said:

completed that without my daughter's CTEK MSX 5 getting too hot, so I've suggested that he give it another of that type of charging cycle to see if that is enough to revive it more.

Sounds a very good idea to me, but I bet he doesn't bother and when the battery drops again he'll say charging didn't achieve much!  Any chance you could dust the seat of his trousers with your boot. 😊

 

Good idea about the WSM, I thought it was old Italian cars that had black wires, I think the Lotus will have many factory original colours and gawd knows what else added by previous owners I can't think what but no doubt it has lots of stock bin parts from various other vehicle manufacturers.  I'm sure it'd be an absolute joyous adventure of discovery.

 

Edited by nta16
spelling

Yes I realised I should have said M100 some time later.

Battery seems okay today (child minding duties!) but CCA measures 400, tester says - REPLACE, shame the Halfords receipt from last year was not filed correctly!

Anyway seeing as the rains have arrived I don’t think nosing around under the rear handbag storage area is going to be my plan for today!

17 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

Yes I realised I should have said M100 some time later.

I knew what you meant , I only put M100 to save the fragile sensitivity of some earlier Elan owners.

 

22 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

Battery seems okay today (child minding duties!) but CCA measures 400, tester says - REPLACE, shame the Halfords receipt from last year was not filed correctly!

The possibly alternator not charging is fair enough but losing battery power whilst in storage on a maintenance charger suggest lack of at least visual checking, but it depends on what the contract for storage actually incudes.

 

400 out of 550 is still 72% so top end of my neighbour's Ring SmartCharger manual's check  - "Good >74%, check 50-74%".  Of course figures are just figures and it depends on a lot of circumstances.  It's rare to get a faulty battery but not so uncommon to get faulty vehicle owners (or sometimes those they entrust their vehicle to).

 

This gut sounds like he's got loads of money just get a new bigger better battery and don't fit it until the problem has been found that recondition the existing battery and pass it on or use it as a power source for something else.

 

I'm looking to be adopted to have someone to do the stuff I don't want to do (which is everything with cars)  - have you considered another child? 😁

 

Naw, one is enough, this one just needs to actually “try” learning more about how things work, by doing lots of jobs on his own car.

That car is booked in for a small service in 8 days time, so plenty time to sort the electrics out, even including finding out how to do that - no?

Well okay probably not, then it needs an MOT, and then back under its cover until next year!

The trouble is, that car, when all missing screws etc are in place and it’s logged faults read and issues cleared, and probably a new exhaust manifold, could make good money if a buyer could be found, right now in a buyer’s, at least a wise buyer’s eyes, it is just a typical Lotus, ie lots of trouble usually serious, so that means only being worth probably 1/3 of what it could be.

I don’t mind a challenge or helping someone get a good result, but they need to show me some commitment before I start to help them, and that includes trying to use the proper diagnostic tool that came with the car, I even found what is meant to be the computer prog that supports it, sometimes you need to be brave enough to take a risk!

Maybe I should just keep quiet about replacing the rear brakes, clean the front brakes, change the brake fluid and even change the Haldex front diff fluid along with cleaning the pump screen - on that daughter’s Leon Cupra, but I’ll probably be a kind father while finding out how to service the front diff.

Edited by rum4mo

2 hours ago, rum4mo said:

and then back under its cover until next year!

Typical "classic" owner, no wonder the cars never get the wrinkles let alone problems sorted.

 

 

2 hours ago, rum4mo said:

I don’t mind a challenge or helping someone get a good result, but they need to show me some commitment before I start to help them

I hope that include your grown offspring.  You should have your daughter helping out as it's her car.  My wife went to 20 weeks evening car maintenance classes when she was young and is much at better at identifying noises and finding parts at shows so knows how to do basic maintenance and realises what's involve - so has me do as she's (like me) more sense than to get dirty, greasy, oily.  Even taking the dust caps off to check tyre pressures gets my fingers black from where I've not bothered cleaning the wheels for far too long.  Cars are really for driving and nothing else (if you have enough money).

 

Edited by nta16

I'm just waiting on that older daughter getting back to me with the prices Arnold Clark are offering to charge for a brake fluid change, rear discs and pads change and a from E-diff or VAQ fluid change, then I can offer up "my plan so far", the trouble is, I have been put on her insurance for that Cupra and so far I have not bothered to try driving it, it has DSG and this is an old dog maybe not needing to learn new tricks!  But if I did ever get brave enough to drive it, I could either take it out to my garage when she is not needing to use it and sort things out, or take it to my favoured VW Group Indie and let her pay for his services - I'd rather the Lotus driver came out and helped me a bit when I'm sorting out that Cupra, maybe cleaning up the mess after changing the E-diff fluid as I believe it smells a lot more than older gear oils! Though I'm sure that his interests as far as car stuff is concerned, lies at home with his Espirit, or E Spirit as the classic insurers call it!

 

Then there is the younger daughter in London, their first car has touched its first kerb, so much distress, I'd rather that they sourced a spare wheel kit instead of worrying too much about returning that kerbed wheel to "as good as new" - but I'm failing on that front!

Well there's not much you can do with the bloke but for the girls you can only blame the parents. 😉

 

Doh !  I might have just blown my chances of adoption and just this morning I'm going to look at a garage to see if it's worth trying for servicing, work my new daddy could have done for us for free, doh!  Why is it posh people even aged in their 60s and 70s refer to their mummies and daddies, being from council estates you stop that at Infants School (or whatever it's called now). 

 

 

Anyway - so @Jesspl123 what's the outcome?

 

Edited by nta16

  • Author
3 hours ago, nta16 said:

I’m going on Monday  to take the car to a small mechanic that my housemate uses. He will connect up diagnostics, check battery and alternator, and hopefully give me some kind of diagnosis, as I don’t trust what the dealership tell me. 
 

Start/stop system has still not come on once since original post. Weather in Melbourne has been cool between 9 and 14 degrees.. no reason for it not to work.

 

 

Okay I think I posted that last message in the wrong place lol. Still getting the hang of this.

 

But you get the gist!

For the scan tool don't just rely on error codes, or the lack of them, only, live data can often tell you a lot and human senses  can often detect stuff the computer program has yet to decide to report or might not be within its reporting or parameters.

 

The over complicated and over complex intertwined computer programs may see a fault with battery or charging system that's there (or it thinks it is maybe).  Have you made checks on simple things like a poor connection to the battery monitoring system connector or the wires (perhaps same as one in photo).

 

stopstartbatteryconnection.jpg

stopstartbatteryconnectionclip.jpg

Edited by nta16

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