Hi Guys though to update as I have never got this info straightforward may help somebody , my window switch (Fabia mk1 2007)  have intermittent issue and when it is NOT working just checked the voltage and it seems 3 pins at (one side- as shown in attach image ) out of 6 pins have voltage , One pin had voltage of  11.42 volts   and other 2 pins had 11.20approx . Rest 3 pins on other side had zero voltage so I assume   car computer is sending correct voltage  and now will see the Window motor voltage and update you soon once I find time please. If motor have issue I may have to open and test the bushes and clean for garbage inside groves or even replace new bushes if I get it( not sure ) .   Please note that car key was switched on position but car was not started.

 

I have removed the inner connector from brown holder just pushing slider& inner black connector came out easily and  one can clearly see/test the pins -( 3 + 3 pins ) with voltmeter.

Hope it helps somebody .

Keep you posted please. Any comments on it is welcome - Skoda is strong car please never bin it for silly issues.  

 

Going great after 110k+ miles

 

Cheers  

I will check later on my test rig, but I think it's probably normal for you to see the voltages that you do there, until you start pushing/pulling the switches, at which point the voltages will decrease to either zero, or somewhere in between 11V and zero depending on which way and how far the switches are moved.

You will probably find that the middle one and possibly the lower one of the three pins that you have measured at zero volts show a voltage if you put the car's lights on. That's the feed for the LED lighting of the switch panel.

 

I've yet to see any motor modules that have gone intermittent because of brush/commutator problems.  It's no doubt possible, but the usual failure is with the electronics module above the motor.

 

 

 

Hi Guys,

The intermittent issue causing window motor was newly bought from skoda around 6 years back , anyway I searched old motor which was dead and tested  Armature With Commutator   with voltmeter and found that two slots were not having same resistance suspected of short circuit, cleaned used sharp blade later/sand paper the resistance was increase but were still different .2 ohms for just 2 slots rest all were matching, Also noticed that there was lot of carbon/gunk on bushes which may caused contact issue ,  I have used the youtube link - "Broken Electric Motor? HOW TO Test If A Motor Armature With Commutator Is Damaged #ElectricMotor" I have also applied some copper grease resealed everything. I shall test and see if it works. The motor is SK240DDRS. 

 

I had also notice two wires small cut on plastic cover of wires near door panel, remembered mechanic was poking some sharp object in wires for testing during last motor issue . The wires from inside looked intact & fine to me as it did not seem broken just taped  them back. Whenever find time will test this newly  cleaned motor and see if it works better or still dead.

Found this link which was sharing circuit digram http://ltb0iy5mjp.talkiforum.com/20151226/2007-skoda-fabia-ii-front-electric-windows-no-5129933/ 

 

Just want some neat circuit digram to test externally with direct voltage through battery just to see if it works at all. Please do share if u have info/circuit digram/steps abt it. 

Keep u posted .

Cheers 

 

 

 

The wiring diagram for driver's side looks like this.

J386 is the motor module. Below it in the diagram is the switch panel. F220 is the lock module. J393 is the central convenience control unit.  The fault on a mk1 Fabia is almost always inside J386. 

 

40 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

The wiring diagram for driver's side looks like this.

J386 is the motor module. Below it in the diagram is the switch panel. F220 is the lock module. J393 is the central convenience control unit.  The fault on a mk1 Fabia is almost always inside J386. 

 

Thanks Pete , In that case soon I would bother you for my old motor please. cheers 

On 07/10/2022 at 16:45, Breezy_Pete said:

I will check later on my test rig, but I think it's probably normal for you to see the voltages that you do there, until you start pushing/pulling the switches, at which point the voltages will decrease to either zero, or somewhere in between 11V and zero depending on which way and how far the switches are moved.

 

I finally got around to checking this just now.  with 13.8V main supply to the module, I see almost exactly 13V at the two switch input pins (left window switch on pin 1 of 6-way, right window sw on pin 7 of the 8-way). When I lift either switch partially up the voltage at the corresponding pin goes to 6.8V approx, when pulled fully up as far as it goes, 3.3V.

When pressing down on each switch I see 1.3V at the corresponding pin, when fully down it is 0V.

These voltages will scale with the supply voltage, so will all be higher with engine running than just with ignition on, except for the 0V one.

Thanks Pete , I think I have done further investigation on motor 8 pin and 6 pin connectors because I had brand new switch from SKODA bought 6 years back when I  had issue and observed that motor connector pins voltage does not change even when it is working or not or switch is up or down,   so I presume it is not switch issue.  I have jotted the voltage after pressing switch up/down both and found that only 1 pin in both  connectors value changes from 0.00 volt to 0.01 volt which may be shown in multimeter but it may be LIN or other types signal which needs oscilscope or other specialise tool to notice the wave of voltage. Please find image , I think culprit seems motor unless you have other views. I have also noticed that when connected motor body have 0.01 volts which was puzzling if there is ground issue or still short circuit. I would seek ur help in this matter and possibly after one more check of bushes short-circuit. 

 

 

Cheers

raky